Upcoming, New: "Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway"

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Messages 121 - 132 of total 132 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Impaler

Social climber
Berkeley
Aug 1, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Scuffy, Pangea is amazing! Long pitches and fun, well protected climbing. The 10c crux is right at the top of the first pitch after you clip 20 or 21 bolts and is kind of slabby with tiny holds. My girlfriend led that and told me that it was easy while I was struggling to find holds while following, although I simuled up a good ways up to reduce the ropedrag. That was a first as our roles are usually reversed. She didn't think anything was that reachy and had fun on it. There's 2 more pitched, but they looked very mungy and not worth doing.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Aug 6, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
Mungeclimber, yeah, I actually thought it was harder than 10d, but I never was good at rating climbs. I led (and cleaned) it ask Hank Ward.

There so so much rock in California... and elsewhere. I'd love to visit Red Rocks, Tahquitz & Suicide, Washington Pass, Seneca, Gunks, Cannon, Sawtooth Idaho, Bugaboos, Alaska...

I could go on... Australia, South America, Africa, Asia, Europe, New Zealand...

...Everywhere.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 6, 2013 - 03:17pm PT


This one?
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Aug 6, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Yeah, that looks like it. Gosh, it's been so long. I'll have to dig through some boxes and see if I can find some photos. Most I have lost in the move across five countries.

Down in the canyon of the Stan after Donnells Reservoir (some great swimming holes/pools there in the canyon) there was this sweet crack, about 90', I had to do a bit of gardening, not much, but it sort of curved up to the left, hands, then fists and a bit of off-width.

My boyhood (and best) friend Brian Southworth (not really a climber) belayed me. I had bought him (North Face, Sierra Designs, I can't remember) a pair of PAs, he wasn't really into climbing. I wonder if he still has them. I'll write him, he and his family live in McKinleyville, he's about ready to retire from PG&E. His wife Cindy keeps in touch more than he does, but like my late brother Mac, Brian isn't much of a communicator.

But he was a good belayer. I must have done about 20 routes in that Stanislaus canyon. Most one-pitch. Brian wasn't great at following, so most of the routes I either down climbed or rap to clean gear. This was 1974-75. I'll write him to see if he has hung onto those PAs.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 6, 2013 - 09:22pm PT
Would love to see the pics and compare notes one some routes we found some gear on.
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Sep 23, 2013 - 08:00pm PT

Got the guide-book this weekend. Really good book.

Tried to go to Potter's Rock to check it out, didn't realize the Forest Service had closed a lot of the roads to Donnell Reservoir. Real bummer to go all that way and find the roads closed until December.

Went instead and climbed near Dodge Ridge.

drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Oct 24, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
so where can i buy the book online!? its sorta hard to find.
squishy

Mountain climber
Oct 24, 2013 - 03:28pm PT
http://maximuspress.com/shop/proddetail.php?prod=CGSP
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Oct 24, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
GET IT! That guidebook is fantastic. BRAVO to the authors. That must have been a monumental task...
Barbarian

climber
Oct 24, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
I've got to get this one. I keep finding myself in Twain-Harte on long weekends.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Oct 25, 2013 - 03:19am PT
thanks! :)
Gerg

Trad climber
Calgary
Mar 2, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
Got one for Xmas, can't wait for my next Cali trip to use it!!

Credit: Gerg
Messages 121 - 132 of total 132 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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