Upcoming, New: "Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway"


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Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
I'm excited to see some new faces out there!

That is unless you're on a climb I want to do ;) haha

The hang on the pass definitely beats the hang in the valley, I'm over due.

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 08:47pm PT

... I'm over due.

Vicki and Tricia definitely agree (and yes, so do I).

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
Tricia was crushing stone a few weeks ago.

Probably couldn't keep up B ;) Best to get good at the 'Hang'

Great book Brad.


Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Jul 11, 2013 - 06:04am PT
Looks good mtnyoung (Brad?).

I understand that any of my/partners' FAs will not be recognized. I guess I should have 'recorded' them, but I climb for fun and enjoyment, not for 'glory' or recogintion (gawd I hope I do not sound pretentious). And anyway I am addressing a probable eviction from my house, Jen's medical condition and fighting a 'rearguard' action by the Irish Department of Justice about my residence.

So whether my name is included in a guide or not, means very little to me. But I know I did FAs in some of the guidebook's areas. My posterity will be if I can keep Jennie in my care and keep the wolf from the door.

Good luck with the guide and best wishes.


Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Jul 11, 2013 - 06:13am PT
Rick: Although I've climbed at Crystal Falls no routes there are in the book.

It may not surprise you to learn that that subdivision is a lot more built up now than it was when it was new in the early 70s. For example, the Egg Rock that is located there is now blocked from access by homes (where there used to be just empty lots). Climbing on the falls would be crowded by homes now too (I don't know anyone who's climbed on them for at least 25 years).

Although the rock at the falls is pretty good it really isn't practical to climb them anymore. There's tons of similar stuff farther up the hill though.

That's a shame. Small area but fun. Saw a dog slip and fall to its death, tried to save it but, dead.

Claude Fiddler and I put up some smear routes, as Rick describes them, in 1975, but it is possible that Rick and Jay were on those routes (Crystal Falls is a small area) before us, but no bolts so who knows. Also, Chris Falkenstein lived in the area with his then wife Pamela (Pam) Moran at the time.

Crystal Falls was minutes away from Cedar Ridge (where Fiddler, Jim Keating, and several others besides myself lived in a crazy and hilarious house) a great fun place, shame it appears to be inaccessible nowadays from Mtnyoung's (Brad?) above post. Good rock, though very limited in scope, but still for an afternoon after work or Columbia College, at the time Crystal Falls was the destination.

BTW, I'd imagine the Arboretum at Columbia College is not in the guidebook. Understandable, but great bouldering. And in the rain/snow we'd boulder (bulidering) on the arches and walls (granite 'blocks' and rocks) of Manzanita Hall as the big balcony overhead kept the arches and walls dry.

Ahhh, if I was young again.


Buildering, UC Berkeley has (or had) some of the best. There used to be, maybe still are, some great splitter 'cracks' on Memorial Stadium, just watch out for campus police. My main high school climbing partner, (a year ahead of me), Steve Fish peeled of buildering about 30+' on a building near Boalt Hall, and limped away (it was temporary, watchers were aghast, but he healed).

Social climber
Jul 11, 2013 - 08:46pm PT

“Endless just as the book”

You wrote back: “Ouch! But guilty as charged (2.35 pounds is hefty); there's a lot up here and we wanted to be thorough and careful.”

Guess I made or addressed the issue in worded it incorrectly. In endless as being with the new electronics now that I acquired since both go together.

Credit: lostinshanghai

As in your routes A, E,D, G, B……… Notes for guitar or other instruments; I am sure I can come up with some kind of noise.

Credit: lostinshanghai

Endless meaning 365 to 3,000 or try.

Great book


Trad climber
Jul 18, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Another plug- the book is AWESOME. The authors, they are pretty cool too.

Trad climber
Jul 30, 2013 - 12:10am PT
Just dropped of more books to Alpenglow in Tahoe City. Get your copy today.

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Jul 31, 2013 - 01:04am PT
Cool, I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up!!

Trad climber
Jul 31, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Hey Brad-

I got mine a couple days ago. Great job and all your hard work shows, again, well done!! Man, it brings back memories. Now I wanna move back!

Social climber
Jul 31, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Brad, thanks again for the book! It's great! I really like how accurate it is, especially concerning bolt count on routes. I was wondering how the grade change for "Green Monster" in LDub came to be (12a in the previous edition and now 11d). My gf got on it this past weekend and being 5'1" had to do some ridiculous 5.12b/c moves due to the reachy nature of the climbing (including clipping off of the tiniest hold that I couldn't even find there later). The swimming there is spectacular and we had the whole damn place to ourselves for 3 day. Didn't see another person the whole time.
scuffy b

heading slowly NNW
Jul 31, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
Lots of people could not believe that it is 12a.
If, say, 19 people say it is 11c or maybe 11d and one says it is 12a,
What does an earlier opinion weigh?
At the time of the publication of the 1st edition very few people had done
the climb. Many have done it in the past 10 or 12 years.
Brad has heard many many opinions. Tom Addison has probably heard hundreds
of people say there's no way it's 12a.
No doubt your 5'1" gf did some 5.12 climbing, but most people don't, on that

Social climber
Jul 31, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
Thanks Scuffy! That's what I thought happened. I never though that it's anything other than 11d and I've done it a couple of times now. Just made me wonder when my gf was struggling on it. She sent, though, and made me proud!
command error

Trad climber
Jul 31, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
Big plus its not in the Yos, and sayin you can ski and climb there?

Credit: command error


Social climber
Aug 1, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
2nd pitch of Pangea at Lost World. Killer swimming below in Donnell la...
2nd pitch of Pangea at Lost World. Killer swimming below in Donnell lake.
Credit: Impaler
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Aug 1, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
At/near Potter's Rock is this lone pillar, only about 30' or so. Had a killer crack we cleaned, about 10d by nowadays standards, but heck that was 1975 or so, I could be wrong. But it was a neat climb, we placed one rap bolt on top of the pillar. That area is a great place and the clean granite, so to speak, down the Stan valley (middle fork of the Stan). Okay short routes but fun as hell, and then the pools to dive into when one was sweaty and dirty after gardening some of the routes.

Gosh I miss it. There is nothing like that in Ireland.

Aug 1, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
Thanks for your efforts.
scuffy b

heading slowly NNW
Aug 1, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Ah Impaler.

Pangaea is a really fun climb, right?
Doesn't look good from below, from the right or from the left.
It looks great while you're doing it, though.
I was a little annoyed by the bolt placements, though, because most of them
were barely out of reach from good stances for a 5'7" climber.
Would have been less fun for someone 5'1", I'm guessing.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Aug 1, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Nice Patrick. That single bolt anchor on top of that pillar is still there. The face climbs about 5.10ish, the crack on the back is really hard and is probably harder than 10d despite how short it is.


Social climber
Aug 1, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Scuffy, Pangea is amazing! Long pitches and fun, well protected climbing. The 10c crux is right at the top of the first pitch after you clip 20 or 21 bolts and is kind of slabby with tiny holds. My girlfriend led that and told me that it was easy while I was struggling to find holds while following, although I simuled up a good ways up to reduce the ropedrag. That was a first as our roles are usually reversed. She didn't think anything was that reachy and had fun on it. There's 2 more pitched, but they looked very mungy and not worth doing.
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