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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 31, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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Cool, I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up!!
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 31, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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Hey Brad-
I got mine a couple days ago. Great job and all your hard work shows, again, well done!! Man, it brings back memories. Now I wanna move back!
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 31, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Brad, thanks again for the book! It's great! I really like how accurate it is, especially concerning bolt count on routes. I was wondering how the grade change for "Green Monster" in LDub came to be (12a in the previous edition and now 11d). My gf got on it this past weekend and being 5'1" had to do some ridiculous 5.12b/c moves due to the reachy nature of the climbing (including clipping off of the tiniest hold that I couldn't even find there later). The swimming there is spectacular and we had the whole damn place to ourselves for 3 day. Didn't see another person the whole time.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jul 31, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Lots of people could not believe that it is 12a.
If, say, 19 people say it is 11c or maybe 11d and one says it is 12a,
What does an earlier opinion weigh?
At the time of the publication of the 1st edition very few people had done
the climb. Many have done it in the past 10 or 12 years.
Brad has heard many many opinions. Tom Addison has probably heard hundreds
of people say there's no way it's 12a.
No doubt your 5'1" gf did some 5.12 climbing, but most people don't, on that
climb.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 31, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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Thanks Scuffy! That's what I thought happened. I never though that it's anything other than 11d and I've done it a couple of times now. Just made me wonder when my gf was struggling on it. She sent, though, and made me proud!
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command error
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jul 31, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Big plus its not in the Yos, and sayin you can ski and climb there?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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At/near Potter's Rock is this lone pillar, only about 30' or so. Had a killer crack we cleaned, about 10d by nowadays standards, but heck that was 1975 or so, I could be wrong. But it was a neat climb, we placed one rap bolt on top of the pillar. That area is a great place and the clean granite, so to speak, down the Stan valley (middle fork of the Stan). Okay short routes but fun as hell, and then the pools to dive into when one was sweaty and dirty after gardening some of the routes.
Gosh I miss it. There is nothing like that in Ireland.
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Thanks for your efforts.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Ah Impaler.
Pangaea is a really fun climb, right?
Doesn't look good from below, from the right or from the left.
It looks great while you're doing it, though.
I was a little annoyed by the bolt placements, though, because most of them
were barely out of reach from good stances for a 5'7" climber.
Would have been less fun for someone 5'1", I'm guessing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nice Patrick. That single bolt anchor on top of that pillar is still there. The face climbs about 5.10ish, the crack on the back is really hard and is probably harder than 10d despite how short it is.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Scuffy, Pangea is amazing! Long pitches and fun, well protected climbing. The 10c crux is right at the top of the first pitch after you clip 20 or 21 bolts and is kind of slabby with tiny holds. My girlfriend led that and told me that it was easy while I was struggling to find holds while following, although I simuled up a good ways up to reduce the ropedrag. That was a first as our roles are usually reversed. She didn't think anything was that reachy and had fun on it. There's 2 more pitched, but they looked very mungy and not worth doing.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mungeclimber, yeah, I actually thought it was harder than 10d, but I never was good at rating climbs. I led (and cleaned) it ask Hank Ward.
There so so much rock in California... and elsewhere. I'd love to visit Red Rocks, Tahquitz & Suicide, Washington Pass, Seneca, Gunks, Cannon, Sawtooth Idaho, Bugaboos, Alaska...
I could go on... Australia, South America, Africa, Asia, Europe, New Zealand...
...Everywhere.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Yeah, that looks like it. Gosh, it's been so long. I'll have to dig through some boxes and see if I can find some photos. Most I have lost in the move across five countries.
Down in the canyon of the Stan after Donnells Reservoir (some great swimming holes/pools there in the canyon) there was this sweet crack, about 90', I had to do a bit of gardening, not much, but it sort of curved up to the left, hands, then fists and a bit of off-width.
My boyhood (and best) friend Brian Southworth (not really a climber) belayed me. I had bought him (North Face, Sierra Designs, I can't remember) a pair of PAs, he wasn't really into climbing. I wonder if he still has them. I'll write him, he and his family live in McKinleyville, he's about ready to retire from PG&E. His wife Cindy keeps in touch more than he does, but like my late brother Mac, Brian isn't much of a communicator.
But he was a good belayer. I must have done about 20 routes in that Stanislaus canyon. Most one-pitch. Brian wasn't great at following, so most of the routes I either down climbed or rap to clean gear. This was 1974-75. I'll write him to see if he has hung onto those PAs.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Would love to see the pics and compare notes one some routes we found some gear on.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 23, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Got the guide-book this weekend. Really good book.
Tried to go to Potter's Rock to check it out, didn't realize the Forest Service had closed a lot of the roads to Donnell Reservoir. Real bummer to go all that way and find the roads closed until December.
Went instead and climbed near Dodge Ridge.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Oct 24, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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so where can i buy the book online!? its sorta hard to find.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 24, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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GET IT! That guidebook is fantastic. BRAVO to the authors. That must have been a monumental task...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!