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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 5, 2013 - 10:58am PT
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After six years of concentrated work, we're now sending our print company the new "Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway, Second Edition." This completely new book will be standard climbing guidebook size (9" by 6"). It will use photos, topos and written descriptions to depict areas, crags, and routes along a 70 mile stretch of Highway 108. It will be fairly long, at 568 pages. The paper and binding will be the same as in the 2007 Pinnacles guide (although this book will be more than 150 pages longer).
Yeah, I know, 568 pages for a totally backwater area is lunacy. What can I say? We love the place, we wanted to be thorough and we've made a labor of love.
The book should be available for sale by the end of May. Here's a shot of the cover (the front photo, by our good friend Jerry Dodrill, shows Tonya Nilsson leading a three-star 5.10b, Cassiopeia, at Chipmunk Flat):
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Congratulations!
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Can't wait to order!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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The book should be available for sale by the end of May.
congrats indeed!
looks awesome, to judge a book by its cover.
good for a copy,
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Can't wait to finally see it and order a copy!!!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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looks awesome, to judge a book by its cover.
Alright, I've got to hand it to Roxy: that definitely made me laugh. Obvious perhaps in hindsight, but very clever.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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^someone's grumpy this morning
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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so many great climbing spots on 108! not to mention some Top Secret awesome ice lines....looking forward to it, and thanks!
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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This is not the guidebook you're looking for. Move along.
Looking forward to getting mine!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Randisi:
1. Done; I'm now very happily finished with writing guidebooks forevermore.
2. I agree about the money, although it is worse than you think: there is no money - anyone who thinks guidebook authors make money is wacked;
3. Neither of us authors has a problem at all with the other issue you listed (we're both very happily married);
Sharperblue:
Those ice areas may not be as secret as you think. I got quite carried away with the history part of this book (what I expected to be five paragraphs of history turned into 11 pages!). Lots and lots of ice climbing has been done up here extending from the early 70s, up to Mungeclimber's crazy efforts here over the last several years.
Ron:
No, the guide stops at Chipmunk Flat, three miles west of the pass itself. It doesn't cover anything to the east of the pass, meaning it doesn't cover any of the training routes at the MWTC.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Of course, Brad is the author of the excellent guide to Pinnacles National Monument. The guidebook does an excellent job in getting all the little details like approaches, protection, etc. correct which greatly enhances one's experience of the area.
BTW, even though it is now a national park, the guidebook is still totally relevant.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Excellent news, Brad!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sure to be a classic guide.
Monumental effort, can't wait to get one Brad.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Congrats on sending your project Brad and Steve!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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aw sh#t, now everyone will want one. ;)
Next thing you know, they'll have websites and Facebook groups.
Crazy? There's nothing crazy about driving up the road in January when the Pass is open! :)
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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What will be really crazy Munge is when we go climbing and actually SEE other climbers out there haha
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Run and hide. Run. And. Hide.
Dingus and Scuffy gonna kill yew!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Congrats!!
On a vaguely related topic - anyone know the history of the bolts the Marines use at the MWTC?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Congratulations, Brad.
The parts I've seen are models for clarity and thoroughness.
We'll just have to see whether I end up kicking myself for turning you on
to that one spot.
Hey, Will, there's a monster steep wide thingy with your name on it, not in
the book, easy approach!!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
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They just opened Highway 108 to Eagle Meadows Road.
Scuffy, thanks for the very nice words.
I've always maintained that we're way too close to that other highway, the next one to the south, and to its climbing areas, to ever get crowded, or even busy here. I still believe this. In fact, I suspect that we'll now see a few more climbers on this highway, but not crowds; maybe just enough new faces to feel good about sharing and not enough to regret it.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Mtnyoung does it include Crystal Falls. Jay Smith and myself put up a few smear fests there back in '74. As we roped up at the bottom of one particularly runout one a frog hurtled from high above to his death right next to us-hence the name Froggies Folly.5.10b/c
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Rick: Although I've climbed at Crystal Falls no routes there are in the book.
It may not surprise you to learn that that subdivision is a lot more built up now than it was when it was new in the early 70s. For example, the Egg Rock that is located there is now blocked from access by homes (where there used to be just empty lots). Climbing on the falls would be crowded by homes now too (I don't know anyone who's climbed on them for at least 25 years).
Although the rock at the falls is pretty good it really isn't practical to climb them anymore. There's tons of similar stuff farther up the hill though.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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SR 108
[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]
IS CLOSED FROM 3.2 MI EAST OF THE TUOLUMNE/MONO CO LINE TO 5.3 MI WEST OF
THE JCT OF US 395 /SONORA PASS/ (MONO CO) - FOR THE WINTER - MOTORISTS ARE
ADVISED TO USE AN ALTERNATE ROUTE
That's Eagle Meadow Rd?
Cool story Rick! Thx for posting it.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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Something's wrong with that notice you copied Munge. It seems to only cover east of Sonora Pass.
I'm going by the sign at the base of the Twain Harte Grade; it changed today.
Edit: Eagle Meadow Road is on the right, past 5NO6, but before Short Cracks.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May have to take a field trip back west....
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Yay, now I don't have to waste 50% of my weekend wondering and thrashing about to spend the other 50% actually climbing. I love SPH, but it can be a bit intricate.
$42.00 bucks for 568 pages outlining the secrets of a place that's akin to a virtual Yosemite in the 60's? That's a steal!!!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2013 - 01:05am PT
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That's a good point Salamanizer. In a 70 mile length of highway, getting to/finding the crag can be half the battle.
So I paid a whole lot of attention in the book to getting people to the crags. Maps and very careful descriptions, all the way down to GPS for most significant sites and waypoints. And sometimes photos to help with approaches too. And I "field-tested" most of the descriptions, using people who'd never been there. I hope it's as user-friendly as intended.
Edit: Oh, and I forgot to mention that all of the first ascents are taken now, and documented in the book. No more to be done, no more untouched rock. No "like Yosemite in the 60s." :) :)
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Want me me one- baaaad! Congrats brad and steve
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the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
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bring some in to sports ltd in s lake tahoe, we'll sell em for you! plus, i like books, w pictures. congrats!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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I got the text proofs back from our printer today, and I am very pleased. Their print is fantastic (I'm used to printing it on my office printer and what they did is so much better).
I'm almost 100 pages into it and there are no blemishes or printing errors so far (I didn't really expect any). On Monday we'll give them the OK (or give them the OK with a change or error or two to correct) and by the end of next week or so they should have printed the text. Then comes binding.
They'll get us the cover proof next week.
Without the cover our book is slightly thicker than is the Joshua Tree West guidebook with it's cover (God what have we done!).
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Strider
Trad climber
ಠ_ಠ
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Apr 13, 2013 - 02:18am PT
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This post is missing something...oh yeah...pictures!
Sweet Dreams
-n
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 13, 2013 - 02:23am PT
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Without the cover our book is slightly thicker than is the Joshua Tree West guidebook with it's cover (God what have we done!).
I think I'll be able to make a living all season carrying peoples' guidebooks to the crag for them haha
Congrats Brad, can't wait to see a copy.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Apr 13, 2013 - 10:17am PT
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Where's that racoon? The really, really want? I'm him.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 11:38am PT
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Thanks Dingus.
I've got all Grant's books too. He and they are mentioned prominently in the history section, and I included a photo there of his books alongside our 2001 book. Of course, you and Tom are in that section too, along with many, many others going back to climbing here in the early 70s. Actually, I confess that I got carried away writing this part too. I might as well have done an 11 page history to climbing in Bumfart Egypt as one so long for this area. But, like with the book as a whole, I enjoyed putting the history section together (and hopefully I didn't screw it up).
And cagey? Wow, I never noticed that you weren't just spillin' all the beans. And what's Peregrine Pinnacle?? Never heard of it.
And even if you had been cagey, it's not like you would have been the only one. Hell even I kept one (one!!) area really, really quite. I finally told Rob about it after the snow closed everything but just before I gave him a full copy of the book to edit. I'm sure he's mentioned it to you by now: a short drive, 30 minute approach and some of the very best granite on the pass. Here's one of my favorite FAs from that area, Beyond the Yellow Brick Road 5.10b *** (as the 5.10b crack is ending and the 5.10b slab portion is about to start):
Another route from the same area, The Source 5.9 *** (named after our county's source of drinking water):
Wild Iris 5.8 ** (this shot shows the beautiful river, 50 feet from the base of this set of climbs - hit it on a hot day):
From Ski Lift Cliff, across the canyon from the previous photos:
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 11:46am PT
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Continuing my review of the proof:
The paper feels like the just like the paper in the Pinnacles Guide, but is slightly less glossy. It takes all types of ink really well, including highlighter. I wrote with a particularly "wet" ink pen over and over on the same line and it does not bleed through.
I was, of course, a little shocked at how small it is from side to side and up and down - exactly what I felt about the Pinns book after years of seeing it also printed out on 8" x 11" paper!! (It'll be 6" x 9").
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 13, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
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I'm sure he's mentioned it to you by now:
"There are many secrets. Even the most secret of secret holders doesn't hear it all. Myself included." -Mungie 2013
and I wouldn't have it any other way. Otherwise, what do we climb and talk about next season, and the season after that, and then...
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Apr 13, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Hey this should be a fun read. I climbed there bitd.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 15, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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ohhhh yeah. thx for all your efforts brad.
marines don't f*ck around
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 15, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Those USMC bolts always make me scratch my head. But I never doubt that they could hold a truck if I popped.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Apr 15, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Beautiful!
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Apr 15, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Awesome, california needs more guidebooks. No, seriously!
Is there bouldering included or no?
So.. who's going to write a 600 page guide to yosemite??!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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Splitclimber: At first that looked like a 3/8" bolt with an unusually small clipping hole in the hanger. Then I realized that that probably isn't a 3/8" bolt?
Baggins: Each of the nine major sections of the book ends with between half a page and a page and a half describing known and possible bouldering in that area.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Apr 16, 2013 - 01:59am PT
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Are the lost world, grotto, gold wall, column in there?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:01am PT
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Are the lost world, grotto, gold wall, column in there?
Not to steal Brad's answer, but yes
edit: oh yeah forgot about the extent to which the GW is in there...sounds like I need a guidebook soon ;)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Apr 16, 2013 - 02:20am PT
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Briham and James, GW is not in there in the traditional sense.
Mtnyoung, you don't recognize those? come on!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2013 - 10:52am PT
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Lost World and The Columns of the Giants (I thought only our loud, once-from-Pinnacles friend called it "column") are fully covered. The Grotto, including the new routes in The Grotto and all the routes at The Eastern Front are all included. Gold Wall is mentioned, as is the regretful fact that it is on private property; since this one is private, routes there are not described.
One of the many great things about doing this book was the chance to get to know Tom Addison well and to climb with him some in The Lost World.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
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I gave the go-ahead this morning to the text. Now they'll print, cut, fold, collate, and sew the book itself over the next two or so weeks.
Meanwhile Steve's got the cover proof and is making some adjustments with the print company.
Not that anyone is doing anything this morning other than watching the events in Boston.
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Apr 19, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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I am excited to see the pics!
Watch out everyone, I'm the n00b crew that will DESTROY all your awesome spots...!
Cragging with a boombox...oh YEAH!!!
Just don't tell anyone where to find the gold... ;)
Cheers
LS
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 19, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
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Potentially silly question... or maybe I just missed it, but where will this guide be purchaseable?
That's probably a good question. I acknowledge that, as with the Pinns guidebook, distribution and sales are weak points for me. I don't care much about either, and I'm not sure Steve cares about them a lot either. Still:
 A few local (Sonora area) stores will sell it (especially our local mountain shop S.N.A.C.).
I've sold the Pinns guide to R.E.I.'s distributor and will probably get around to doing the same with this book.
Larry at Mountain Tools might carry and sell it. I haven't talked to him yet, but I should.
My partner Steve lives in San Jose and has supplied gyms and stores down there with the Pinns guide and will do so too with this new guide.
Marty Lewis (he does the Eastern Sierra guidebooks) will distribute to any shops that might want to carry it outside where Steve and I each live.
Don't look for it at that mega-"A' book seller or any huge corporations bigger than R.E.I. I won't (and with the Pinns guide haven't) sold to them. I like local shops and gyms, and these mega stores buy in quantity (if one is willing to sell to them - I'm not) and sell cheaply, thus weakening the ability of our local, knowledgeable and user friendly stores and gyms to survive.
Of course the book will eventually appear for sale at these big monster outlets. But they won't get it directly from me.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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I just talked with our printer:
1. The covers are all printed and laminated;
2. The text is almost done printing; folding and sewing should start on Monday at the latest;
3. The books then have to be covered, and then boxed.
All in all, it looks like about two tons of books should be shipping from them to us in California on about May 17th. Shipping will take 4 or 5 days.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Got an email today from our printer. The guidebook's text is now printed, folded and collated. They started sewing today (the book's spine is sewn before the cover is put on).
I think we are on track.
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sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
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yes, I'm ducking when i say this, but you'd move quite a few by getting the Touchstone climbing gyms to carry them (SF-Sac-Fresno)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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NIce Brad!
I just may have to pick one up. Might bring me that much closer...
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Sweet!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Brad,any possibilities to buy the book on-line?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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Alexey: Yes, Marty Lewis sells many guidebooks on line. He will carry and sell this new one too, although he doesn't have it yet - none of us do :)
He goes by "Maximus Press," and here's link to his guidebooks sales page:
http://maximuspress.com/shop/products.php?cat=7
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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I spoke again with the printer this morning. The books are nearing completion and are still on schedule to ship this Friday, May 17th.
Naturally the printer will be Fedexing a copy to me and one to Steve the minute they're done. I'm actually looking forward to seeing it.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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May 14, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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Do you know if it will be up on the maximuspress.com site soon? I would preorder one as soon as I could... can't wait.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2013 - 11:11am PT
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Marty emailed me last week about how he needed to get it up on his site right away. I guess he didn't get to it yet though, so I don't know when it will be up there.
But, and this is a big but, I won't be able to get actual books to him until the end of the first week of June, so he won't be able to ship until then (I'll be combining an East Side climbing trip with delivery to him).
I think that my wife will be filling orders by email too, at least for a few weeks, until we can get them into the stores.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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May 14, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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Pvalchev, I have to run this by Brad first, but if you are in mountain view I can get you a book by the Tuesday after Memorial Day. Assuming I'm able to get some books from you on Memorial Day, Brad. Pm if interested pvalchev
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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May 14, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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Brad what are you going to do with all your free time? What is the next guide book? :)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 14, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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And none of the FAs (1974-1977) on the road to Donnells Reservoir (with Hank Ward, Craig O'Connell, Jim Keating, Claude Fiddler and Dieter King) nor any of 'my' FAs in the Middle Fork of the Stan (with Brian Southworth) below the dam/reservoir, will be recognized.
I guess that is what I get for keeping my mouth shut all these years. Photos? I may have some, but I have lost so much stuff moving around five countries in the past 35 or so years.
Oh well, c'est la vie.
(Same thing is true of climbs - FFAs and FAs - I and others like Claude did on Mt Diablo. I never was a glory hound. Dang it. Will I have ever have my moment in the sun as a climber? Hah hah.)
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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And none of the FAs (1974-1977) on the road to Donnells Reservoir (with Hank Ward, Craig O'Connell, Jim Keating, Claude Fiddler and Dieter King) nor any of 'my' FAs in the Middle Fork of the Stan (with Brian Southworth) below the dam/reservoir, will be recognized.
Patrick, I spent many, many hours digging and interviewing for the history section of this book. That section runs 11 pages, a fairly large number of pages for a backwater area. It includes two wonderful photos from the 1970s too. The book also has a complete first ascent appendix that runs 21 pages.
Among the 1970s first ascents that are specifically documented are several by Don Potter, Steve Weldon, Knic Seto, Dale and Chris Keyser, Doug Nidever, and Bob Henry. Several Hank Ward FAs are in the book, although, if memory serves, they are from the late 80s and the 90s.
But, you're right, one can only document what has been reported. There are several routes for which the first ascent is reported as "unknown," or as "probable" because fixed gear was found at some point by later climbers who had thought they were making a first.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
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Brad what are you going to do with all your free time? What is the next guide book? :)
Mrtrophy, no more guidebooks, ever.
Instead of guide-booking, maybe I can substitute in trying to climb as hard as I can.
I just got back from a trip to Lover's Leap, and it felt great to go climbing, in May, at a venue I "wanted" to go to, not one I "needed" to go to.
I hope to keep current the list of newly established and found routes at Pinnacles, and I'll work on such a list for up here, but am not as passionate about keeping the one for up here. I think that there will be occasional 5 to 10 page supplements to this new book over the years. For example, I know of at least three areas that haven't been touched yet by climbers, but which will be in the coming summers. Supplemental guidebook pages for these areas could be formatted just like the books pages so they'd fit right in with it.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 18, 2013 - 08:55am PT
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I understand Mtnyoung. I never thought much of reporting them, though I am surprised a couple of the other didn't report FAs, especially Claude (somewhat of a glory hound) ;-)
I mainly climbed with Hank, Craig and Jim there. I recall Claude going there a couple of times and Dieter once, at least with me and/or the others.
Met Don Potter several times at Sonora Mountaineering, circa 1974/75. Probably met a couple of others that you mention, just can't recall their names though Steve Weldon seems to stick out. I lived on Big Hill and then Cedar Ridge (two years with Jim, Claude, Dieter and Steve Matthews - the latter owned the house, but wasn't a climber as such, perhaps some at Crystal Falls - from 1974-1977.
I reckon I was on more than a dozen FAs (most single pitch, or two short-pitch routes) up that gorge, mainly because they all needed gardening of some sort, loose rocks trundled, etc. On any of the routes I never saw any signs of previous pro. In the Canyon that the Stan ran through, it was all single mainly short pitches, as Brian Southworth (childhood best friend) really wasn't a climber and only followed a couple, the rest I would rap off from a tree and clean my pro.
There were several face/slabs we placed bolts on along the fire road leading to the dam and at Potter's Rock, though there is good natural pro on most climbs. But no bolts in the canyon.
I always meant to return (especially as Atlantis Wall looked so enticing, I think that is the name the DMT says it is called) but Summer 1977 I went to work on fishing boats and Alaska and then got sidetracked.
Just as an aside, the same is probably true with Castle Crags.
Returning from a road trip from BC and WA, my late brother Mac and I probably did some FAs (about three, several pitches around 5.5 or so) in summer 1971. All along the Crags trail. They didn't looked like they had been climbed on. Who knows?
And in 1973, my high school climbing partner (a year ahead of me so he was now going to Humboldt State), I thumbed up to Arcata and we drove to Castle Crags and spent seven days (his Spring break) climbing. I was comfortably leading 5.9 (sort of) at that point and several 5.10s under my belt.
I know for certain we did one three-pitch 5.8ish FA as the cracks were dirty as hell, a lot of gardening. Castle Dome area. (Our second day there.) Going back to camp (are there still free showers there I wonder), we did this two-pitcher (5.7?), but it had some slings and several pins on it and was clean.
At the bottom of Castle Dome, a five-pitch crack/face, fairly clean but no signs of pro or previous ascent. It was tough on a couple of pitches, so I reckon 5.9ish, but I never was good at grading a route. (that took a day and a bit of the fourth.) Ran out of crack, and the above face was bit too featureless for us, and didn't look fun anyway
A short one-pitch that was effing hard, at least 5.9+. Castle Dome area. (fourth day)
Another one-pitch (about 80') toughie (5.10a or so???) that needed cleaning on the southern end of the crags. (fifth day)
On a slab along the Castle Dome tail, we did a 5.7ish one-pitch (about 90'), placed three bolts for pro (we only had taken five 1/4") and two for the anchor to rap. Drilling bolts are so damn time consuming by hand). (fifth day).
That was the seven days and the bit below. We did a couple of other routes 5.6-5.8 that looked like they had been done before. (First day.)
Again at the southern end we started a route (sixth and seventh days) (went up about two pitches and it started getting both late and dirty.) So back along 299 (via 5) to the sea.
We went back for three days later the following weekend and finished it, ended up four pitches and I'd say 10a.
The third day, we did what I assume was an FA along the trail. Two-pitches, not to dirty, about 5.7/5.8. But it could have been done before.
Had to head back to Arcata as Steve had class the next day.
We had names for the routes, wrote them down. But I have moved so much since 1977 (California, France, Ireland, England, Wales) I have lost a lot of papers, photos, clarinet stolen off the back of a moving van, etc etc. I'll try to think of the names. Steve may remember or have them written down, but he has been in Alaska since 1975 and I haven't seen him for years.
And we never any rattlers encounters. This was Spring 1973
I always wanted to return (will someday) but started concentrating on the Valley and Meadows. I also wonder what the Trinity Alps are like for climbing. I'll google it.
I am curious about those routes. I googled Castle Crags Climbing Guide but could not find an entry/link. There must be one as there is a hell of a lot of good rock up there.
Perhaps I'll start a thread asking about a Castle Crags guide, there must be one by now.
(Another aside, over by the Arches, there is this 90' or so slanting right to left crack, and I don't know, I think Hank Ward, Craig O'Connell did the FA, and both being 17 and eager for an FA, they wanted to report it back at Camp 4, but being a couple of years older, I hesitated, as I don't want to report an FA that is not). Not sure if they ever did report it.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
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I now have one in my hot little hand. It's gorgeous, it's heavy. I can't wait to get out my orange highlighter and get to work marking it up!
We had 20 shipped two-day delivery (they are what just arrived). The remaining four tons of books arrive next week - they shipped today.
Here's a photo of the book as it looks done:
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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May 23, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
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woohoo can't wait to get a copy
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
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The books have arrived and we're getting them out to stores and by mail.
And the climbing weather here is perfect now.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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May 30, 2013 - 08:13pm PT
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Here's something for wide fans to drool over...
And splitter hands for everyone else...
It took me about 3 hours to finish highlighting all the routes in the book I've done so far. IIRC I'm at 70
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MJD
Trad climber
El Cerrito, CA
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Any place in the north bay (SF, Berkeley) or east bay (Walnut Creek) carrying the guide yet? Or can it be directly ordered from the author?
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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By now all of the Planet Granite gyms should have them. They should be in or getting in at the Touchstone facilities. My wife also does mail order if you can't find one at any of these locations.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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^ Brad, I called PG SF 2 minutes ago, and they don't have them yet. I'd buy one tomorrow.
Can't wait to read it
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2013 - 01:00am PT
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Wow, I'm quite surprised that PG SF doesn't have them yet. I thought Steve was going to get 80 to them at Sunnyvale four days ago and that they would have migrated to SF by now. I know he's been very busy with (real) work, so maybe there was a delay. SNAC in downtown Sonora has them and we'll sell them by mail if you want (but that's not all that fast - my wife does it by snail mail, she does however usually mail the books out the day after she gets checks).
You could always swing by the house on the way up to climb too. We'll feed you and give you coffee as we sell you a book.
Steve and Rob had tried to set something up with PayPal on the SonoraPassClimbing.com site, but that didn't get that wrapped up before Rob started on Zodiac.
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cdl
climber
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They arrived in pgsf this morning. Going up on the shelves as i type :) arrived in sunnyvale yesterday ..
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Jun 10, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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Is this book being sold online or do I have to find a brick & morter place?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 10, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
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Steve just needs to put the simple Paypal link in any post (if that is the account you want to use). The more code laden link wasn't working in the SMF forum posts. In any event, only he has access to it until he posts it publicly. Wasn't really related to going up on Zod. I think Steve has just been super busy lately.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
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I will be curious to know if the routes I climbed in the area are established or are FA that need to be recorded.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 10, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Wedge, if you post up the info or send it to me I can check for you.
We're keeping up to date with new routes/previously unrecorded (and updates to FA info) on the SPH site...
http://www.sonorapassclimbing.com
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Jun 10, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
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Just finished overdubbing, some with delay, phasing here and there and varispeed a tad and then now kicking back and do some reading or dreaming. Endless just as the book.
Nice gig: mtnyoung I like it. The book I mean great job.
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adam d
climber
CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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Heading up for the first time on Friday. Anywhere en route I can pick up a guide? (Coming from SLO?) I have Slater's N CA road trip, and some Internet info. Not scared of exploring though!
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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If you are coming up from the west side, we live 9/10ths of a mile off the highway. Several climbers have swung by the house on a Friday evening to pick up books (even late, we've left them out on the porch if we know someone's coming).
Email me at mtnyoung AT mlode.com if this sounds workable to you.
And, if it's late and we're not up, you'll want to leave a check or some form of money in place of the book, but it really isn't necessary to leave "thank you beers" as one crew did (although we thought that was a nice gesture).
Finally, it's quite common this time of year for climbers to use our driveway as a place to crash for the night on the way up the hill. We usually get them coffee early, and, if they're nice, we even give them breakfast. This coming weekend there will be several climbers staying with us to climb, so if you crash in the driveway, you might meet some people who frequent the crags here.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 03:53pm PT
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And lostinshanghai:
Nice gig: mtnyoung I like it. The book I mean great job.
Thanks. Comments like that make the work that went into it worthwhile.
Endless just as the book.
Ouch! But guilty as charged (2.35 pounds is hefty); there's a lot up here and we wanted to be thorough and careful.
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adam d
climber
CA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Thanks mtnyoung, email sent.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jun 27, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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After having never been through there in the last 32 years, I've now been over 108 three times in the last two weeks, and have been lusting after some of the crags I saw on the way ever since. With the quality of your Pinns guide (too bad it's gonna be 112+ Saturday, I was planning on getting some more milage out of it) this is a gimmee to add to my guide collection.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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Thanks for a helluva nice compliment. I hope and think that this book is pretty good too.
The area you see best and easiest when you drive over Sonora Pass is called Chipmunk Flat. There are about 350 or so routes there that are documented in the book. Many of them are really, really good. The cover photo was taken there.
But, the great majority of SPH routes can't be seen from the road. Some of my (other) favorite areas (Burst Rock, The Lost World, The South Fork Stanislaus River) aren't visible at all from 108.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Soooo, I'm hoping to get in there this weekend. My old book is in shambles. Im coming in from the east side, is there anyone selling the book between tahoe, reno, and bishop? Ive found none local here. They are on sale at the gear shop in sonora right? I might be able to have someone pick me one up if theyre not out here in my neck of the woods.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Any progress on the PayPal front? I may be coming in in a few weeks from the east it would be good to be armed with knowledge. And I got a birthday coming up
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 10:13am PT
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No progress on PayPal that I know of. Steve and Rob did a little looking into that, but it doesn't seem to have gotten very far.
I am certain, however that two shops in Truckee have or had the book (Steve's family has a cabin at Donner and he personally delivered books to two of the mountain shops there, but I don't recall their names).
Maximus Press has them now and I think Marty sells them by PayPal, or at least by online orders.
Once again, I admit that I don't care about distribution as much as I probably should. It is slowly getting out there though.
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monolith
climber
SF bay area
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I can report that my copy survived a complete dunking in the South Fork of the Stanislaus River. Had to chase it a little downstream, and had to turn each page to get it to dry properly.
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em kn0t
Trad climber
isle of wyde
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is there anyone selling the book between tahoe, reno, and bishop
Mammoth Mountaineering in Mammoth Lakes says they have 5 in stock today.
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lasher
Trad climber
CA
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You should be able to find a copy at Granite Chief in Truckee or Alpenglow in Tahoe City. If they don't have any more in stock post up here and I'll make sure they get more.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Just to add to the list, Pacific Edge in Santa Cruz had 2 copies on the shelf last Wednesday. I anticipate there being one fewer if I remember to bring my credit card in tomorrow.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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I'm excited to see some new faces out there!
That is unless you're on a climb I want to do ;) haha
The hang on the pass definitely beats the hang in the valley, I'm over due.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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... I'm over due.
Vicki and Tricia definitely agree (and yes, so do I).
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Tricia was crushing stone a few weeks ago.
Probably couldn't keep up B ;) Best to get good at the 'Hang'
Great book Brad.
Bravo
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jul 11, 2013 - 06:04am PT
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Looks good mtnyoung (Brad?).
I understand that any of my/partners' FAs will not be recognized. I guess I should have 'recorded' them, but I climb for fun and enjoyment, not for 'glory' or recogintion (gawd I hope I do not sound pretentious). And anyway I am addressing a probable eviction from my house, Jen's medical condition and fighting a 'rearguard' action by the Irish Department of Justice about my residence.
So whether my name is included in a guide or not, means very little to me. But I know I did FAs in some of the guidebook's areas. My posterity will be if I can keep Jennie in my care and keep the wolf from the door.
Good luck with the guide and best wishes.
Cheers
Patrick
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jul 11, 2013 - 06:13am PT
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Rick: Although I've climbed at Crystal Falls no routes there are in the book.
It may not surprise you to learn that that subdivision is a lot more built up now than it was when it was new in the early 70s. For example, the Egg Rock that is located there is now blocked from access by homes (where there used to be just empty lots). Climbing on the falls would be crowded by homes now too (I don't know anyone who's climbed on them for at least 25 years).
Although the rock at the falls is pretty good it really isn't practical to climb them anymore. There's tons of similar stuff farther up the hill though.
That's a shame. Small area but fun. Saw a dog slip and fall to its death, tried to save it but, dead.
Claude Fiddler and I put up some smear routes, as Rick describes them, in 1975, but it is possible that Rick and Jay were on those routes (Crystal Falls is a small area) before us, but no bolts so who knows. Also, Chris Falkenstein lived in the area with his then wife Pamela (Pam) Moran at the time.
Crystal Falls was minutes away from Cedar Ridge (where Fiddler, Jim Keating, and several others besides myself lived in a crazy and hilarious house) a great fun place, shame it appears to be inaccessible nowadays from Mtnyoung's (Brad?) above post. Good rock, though very limited in scope, but still for an afternoon after work or Columbia College, at the time Crystal Falls was the destination.
BTW, I'd imagine the Arboretum at Columbia College is not in the guidebook. Understandable, but great bouldering. And in the rain/snow we'd boulder (bulidering) on the arches and walls (granite 'blocks' and rocks) of Manzanita Hall as the big balcony overhead kept the arches and walls dry.
Ahhh, if I was young again.
EDIT
Buildering, UC Berkeley has (or had) some of the best. There used to be, maybe still are, some great splitter 'cracks' on Memorial Stadium, just watch out for campus police. My main high school climbing partner, (a year ahead of me), Steve Fish peeled of buildering about 30+' on a building near Boalt Hall, and limped away (it was temporary, watchers were aghast, but he healed).
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lostinshanghai
Social climber
someplace
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Jul 11, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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Mtnyoung
“Endless just as the book”
You wrote back: “Ouch! But guilty as charged (2.35 pounds is hefty); there's a lot up here and we wanted to be thorough and careful.”
Guess I made or addressed the issue in worded it incorrectly. In endless as being with the new electronics now that I acquired since both go together.
As in your routes A, E,D, G, B……… Notes for guitar or other instruments; I am sure I can come up with some kind of noise.
Endless meaning 365 to 3,000 or try.
Great book
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jul 18, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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Another plug- the book is AWESOME. The authors, they are pretty cool too.
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lasher
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 30, 2013 - 12:10am PT
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Just dropped of more books to Alpenglow in Tahoe City. Get your copy today.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 31, 2013 - 01:04am PT
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Cool, I'll check it out, thanks for the heads up!!
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Cragar
Trad climber
MSLA - MT
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Jul 31, 2013 - 10:11am PT
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Hey Brad-
I got mine a couple days ago. Great job and all your hard work shows, again, well done!! Man, it brings back memories. Now I wanna move back!
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 31, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
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Brad, thanks again for the book! It's great! I really like how accurate it is, especially concerning bolt count on routes. I was wondering how the grade change for "Green Monster" in LDub came to be (12a in the previous edition and now 11d). My gf got on it this past weekend and being 5'1" had to do some ridiculous 5.12b/c moves due to the reachy nature of the climbing (including clipping off of the tiniest hold that I couldn't even find there later). The swimming there is spectacular and we had the whole damn place to ourselves for 3 day. Didn't see another person the whole time.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jul 31, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
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Lots of people could not believe that it is 12a.
If, say, 19 people say it is 11c or maybe 11d and one says it is 12a,
What does an earlier opinion weigh?
At the time of the publication of the 1st edition very few people had done
the climb. Many have done it in the past 10 or 12 years.
Brad has heard many many opinions. Tom Addison has probably heard hundreds
of people say there's no way it's 12a.
No doubt your 5'1" gf did some 5.12 climbing, but most people don't, on that
climb.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Jul 31, 2013 - 04:40pm PT
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Thanks Scuffy! That's what I thought happened. I never though that it's anything other than 11d and I've done it a couple of times now. Just made me wonder when my gf was struggling on it. She sent, though, and made me proud!
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command error
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jul 31, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Big plus its not in the Yos, and sayin you can ski and climb there?
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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At/near Potter's Rock is this lone pillar, only about 30' or so. Had a killer crack we cleaned, about 10d by nowadays standards, but heck that was 1975 or so, I could be wrong. But it was a neat climb, we placed one rap bolt on top of the pillar. That area is a great place and the clean granite, so to speak, down the Stan valley (middle fork of the Stan). Okay short routes but fun as hell, and then the pools to dive into when one was sweaty and dirty after gardening some of the routes.
Gosh I miss it. There is nothing like that in Ireland.
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Thanks for your efforts.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Ah Impaler.
Pangaea is a really fun climb, right?
Doesn't look good from below, from the right or from the left.
It looks great while you're doing it, though.
I was a little annoyed by the bolt placements, though, because most of them
were barely out of reach from good stances for a 5'7" climber.
Would have been less fun for someone 5'1", I'm guessing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nice Patrick. That single bolt anchor on top of that pillar is still there. The face climbs about 5.10ish, the crack on the back is really hard and is probably harder than 10d despite how short it is.
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Impaler
Social climber
Berkeley
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Scuffy, Pangea is amazing! Long pitches and fun, well protected climbing. The 10c crux is right at the top of the first pitch after you clip 20 or 21 bolts and is kind of slabby with tiny holds. My girlfriend led that and told me that it was easy while I was struggling to find holds while following, although I simuled up a good ways up to reduce the ropedrag. That was a first as our roles are usually reversed. She didn't think anything was that reachy and had fun on it. There's 2 more pitched, but they looked very mungy and not worth doing.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mungeclimber, yeah, I actually thought it was harder than 10d, but I never was good at rating climbs. I led (and cleaned) it ask Hank Ward.
There so so much rock in California... and elsewhere. I'd love to visit Red Rocks, Tahquitz & Suicide, Washington Pass, Seneca, Gunks, Cannon, Sawtooth Idaho, Bugaboos, Alaska...
I could go on... Australia, South America, Africa, Asia, Europe, New Zealand...
...Everywhere.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Yeah, that looks like it. Gosh, it's been so long. I'll have to dig through some boxes and see if I can find some photos. Most I have lost in the move across five countries.
Down in the canyon of the Stan after Donnells Reservoir (some great swimming holes/pools there in the canyon) there was this sweet crack, about 90', I had to do a bit of gardening, not much, but it sort of curved up to the left, hands, then fists and a bit of off-width.
My boyhood (and best) friend Brian Southworth (not really a climber) belayed me. I had bought him (North Face, Sierra Designs, I can't remember) a pair of PAs, he wasn't really into climbing. I wonder if he still has them. I'll write him, he and his family live in McKinleyville, he's about ready to retire from PG&E. His wife Cindy keeps in touch more than he does, but like my late brother Mac, Brian isn't much of a communicator.
But he was a good belayer. I must have done about 20 routes in that Stanislaus canyon. Most one-pitch. Brian wasn't great at following, so most of the routes I either down climbed or rap to clean gear. This was 1974-75. I'll write him to see if he has hung onto those PAs.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Would love to see the pics and compare notes one some routes we found some gear on.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 23, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
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Got the guide-book this weekend. Really good book.
Tried to go to Potter's Rock to check it out, didn't realize the Forest Service had closed a lot of the roads to Donnell Reservoir. Real bummer to go all that way and find the roads closed until December.
Went instead and climbed near Dodge Ridge.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Oct 24, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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so where can i buy the book online!? its sorta hard to find.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 24, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
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GET IT! That guidebook is fantastic. BRAVO to the authors. That must have been a monumental task...
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Barbarian
climber
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Oct 24, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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I've got to get this one. I keep finding myself in Twain-Harte on long weekends.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Oct 25, 2013 - 06:19am PT
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thanks! :)
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Got one for Xmas, can't wait for my next Cali trip to use it!!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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I searched forum for a thread about all the haunt and spook out at the Lost World and didn't seem to find one...perhaps this thread is most relevant place to ask about other scary tales / experiences from the Lost World area?
The most recent R&I (issue 219) has a cool article "the Howling" about the area, read it last night before bed and it stirred my imagination like when I was young and first read Bradbury.
any other tales out there?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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There are relics and they have tales. Post em up guys and gals for our arm chair entertainment, please.
non-relics tales as well...
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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thanks, munge!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Great stuff on that thread Munge.
I think there is something up in the Higher Cathedral Rock and Spires area. Avoid it at night especially.
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Kaberle
Big Wall climber
Sonora, CA
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It's Craig Connell, not O'Connell. I'm his ex wife and climbing partner.
Does anyone know where Knic Seto is now? He was in Fairbanks AK and now he seems to have disappeared...
thanks for any info..
Jana Connell
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 12, 2016 - 11:52pm PT
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Hi Jana,
You might try reaching out to mtnyoung on this forum.
He was in touch with him regarding the Altantis Wall climbing he had done.
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