Yeah Rick! Monkey Business-- FA Rick Sumner, Bill Todd 1974.. followed that one with B. Nagel - I specifically remember a hella- hard crack going through a roof which was "exciting" to say the least. It seemed quite hard - for the 10A rating.. Bill and You musta been having some kinda fun exploring that lonely place up high in the canyon!
I remember being up their in early April, '75 i think, with the whole red book crew-Bill Todd, John Taylor, Greg Dexter and bivouacing under a large overhanging boulder to get in two days of climbing. Might of done "Orange Sunshine" 10b ,and do i remember dropping two hits in a sealed container in a niche high in the crack?Anyway flashbacks of good times from the deep past. Did quite a few routes on that outing.
BAAHAAHA! And i thought a certain name was due to the rock color!;-D
After the red guide came out, it was one of the first places we hit. Kinda like an intro to the "red guide team".. I believe a quote was,," cripes man,, these guys are ON IT!" We also called the wind tree, "right angle rodney"..Dont know why, but i love that stoopid lil shrub of a juniper. Growing where and how it does.."against all odds".. Thanks for all those routes man..
Adikted-to what? A stash of mind altering drugs and that long pinnacle ridge would make for a good day in the mountains even at this advanced age. Now if i could just find that container on Orange Sunshine....
an hour or so- not in a hurry..Up a creek for a few then a gorgeous Col of granite slabs and talus- never really steep. Wildlife can be abundant at times. Marmots and "cheesburger" birds..
Reminds me of something though,, there USED to be a 5.9 climb that was a crack to a roof traverse- right at the bridge up the creek. We were GOING to do it one day, but we decided to go ahead up to the butress. On the way down that evening, we found the ENTIRE roof had fallen off busting to LARGE chunks in the creek!!!!!!!! It woulda been fatal for the belayer and climber. We looked around for signs of squashed human, but none were detected lol!