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The Dak
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 4, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
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I spent 5 weeks in January and early February this year down in Argentine Patagonia, climbing in Los Glaciares National Park, home of the Fitz Roy and Torre massifs.
I wrote up a story/trip report/introspection about the experience on my blog, but figured some monkeys here on Supertopo might enjoy reading it as well. At the very least I promise there's lots of awesome and inspiring photos to look at -- and some guest appearances by many Valley regulars and denizens.
Hope y'all enjoy:
http://austinsiadak.blogspot.com/2013/04/patagonia-lessons-in-ego-and-caring.html
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John_Box
climber
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Holy cow!!! Real nice writing, photos and climbing. That was pretty impressive to read. Thanks for what you've done on the Dirtbag Diaries too.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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Awesome
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Incredible, thank you for sharing. Hope I can check out Patagonia with own eyes some day.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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So f*#king good.....
Thank you for sharing.
The writing is excellent.
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adikted
Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
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Austin......thanks for posting....was good hanging out with yal down there....was some good times had by all..hope too see ya soon down here in the Sierra....cheers bro!!
Greg
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The Dak
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
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Thanks rrider, that pic is actually one of mine. She sure is a beautiful devil though, ain't she?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Thanks for the peek.
Man, that is another realm, of which I may never get to dive into.
Proud.
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orle
climber
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The Care Bear Traverse sounds like one of the finest alpine rock routes anywhere.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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After only 4 years of climbing.....that is impressive. Sounds really scary up there.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Great read and awesome photos.
Super inspiring!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Wow. Double wow. TRIPLE WOW!!!!!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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The quest to become your own hero. Self respect is hard earned.
I loved your writing. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and the beauty of the place.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Home away from Home
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Great writing... love the honesty about ego and your willingness to share your thoughts ....
"It demanded concentration
fear and ability to control it
pain and discomfort
trust
frustration
flesh and blood
exhaustion..."
Amazing photos... thanks for taking us on the trip with you, mentally, physically and visually.
~peace
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Pretty damn rad! How cool is the Southern Cross? And that spot where you realize the pampas meets the mountains? And Ana's Chocolateria?! Can't beat that.
It was nice reading about the things I think about constantly. Just with nicer photos.
Keep at it!
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grover
climber
Northern Mexico
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Epic read.
Gracias
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cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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BUMP. Austin, this is amazing. Very inspirational.
"I've imagined myself in situations like this before, when I read epic stories in climbing magazines or books about all-night descents and precarious moments. I always figured I'd find the strength to focus my mind and take control when I found myself in that position. But in that moment, as the sh#t inched closer and closer to the fan, I realized that I just didn't have it in me. I wanted to be able to take the lead. I wanted to pull my weight. I didn't want to look like a gumby in front of such accomplished people. I wanted them to like me and respect me. But I was just so tired. "
^That really hit home to me. After climbing my first El Cap route in the winter and that route as my first epic, I went through a very similar situation in my head. Glad to hears other disclose similar feelings.
keep following your dreams!!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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tHanks for letting us all into your thoughts and experience. I respect you for this.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Stellar pictures and great writing.
What a grand adventure.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Nice... most people don't learn what you have learned so quickly and most people who climb to impress others don't last very long in the sport... it gets them or they get out! Good for you!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Fantastic TR! Deep soul searching, taking the bode to extremes and and revelations of the mind.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Verrrrry cooool, great introspection and analysis!!!!!!!!
Much respect, for your personal journey!!!!!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Dang!
Can you say ADVENTURE!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Austin, contact Alpinist Magazine and get this thing published. It is worth it. Contact me if you want help.
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2 l l
Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
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The Fitz Roy massif looming over the streets of El Chalten Nice photo (whoa)
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R.B.
Trad climber
47N 122W
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Nice expe ... and send. Good job on keeping it together when things seemed to be dismal. Life lessons to carry forward. Good Job; anyone who has done a big wall knows the "worn out" feeling ... but the endorphine high that comes thereafter. Sound like your a fellow w.washingtonite.. Nicely done ... good story. What's next?
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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wow - very cool. An adventure that will always be with you.
Thank you for the great read and photos!
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Brian Biega
climber
Truckee, CA
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Awesome report! Thanks for the sharing.
Cheers, Brian
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nah000
Mountain climber
canuckistan
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a bump for writing that travels to a depth consistent with the depth of the original adventure.
the type of alpinism writing i have the most appreciation for...
thanks for the share.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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I agree with what Peter Haan said on your blog, you should send this to Alpinist. You have something significant to say that goes beyond a mere trip report. You openly discuss things that all of us can relate to and understand. Very well done on both counts, Austin: the climbing and the writing. This is a report I will read again.
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D-Rail
Trad climber
Calaveras
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I agree! This is a great read, and should be in Print. Alpinist would be a great place for it. Don't give your self away for free!
And I respect your perspective on how hard it is to face the demons. I will reflect on this when I am choosing to bail or continue. Why should we go up/down? Where is my ego in this equation?
Climbing at this level after only 4 years? Jeez. You are a badass! Makes me wonder what I could be capable of if I were to suppress the fear and go for it. I am not jealous, I am Inspired!
Thanks for that!
D
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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A trip like this will stay with you for as long as you live! Excellent read.
Thanks!
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Pcutler
climber
Iowa
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Bump this... So cool
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Bump, for some really excellent, introspective writing.
I agree with Peter's comment!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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The Dak,
So the State Department's loss is the climbing community's gain! Excellent writing. Like the Mickey Smith quote in your blog: "If I only scrape a living, at least it's one worth scraping".
We climbed a bit with Jon last week and I was hoping one of you guys would post a TR about this extraordinary adventure. His videos of Ben siphoning water from the cracks with a Mylar wrapper and plastic tube was priceless. Sounded like spectacular weather. Well done!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Absolute Full Value. Way to go guys. These three are beyond words...
But this one is my favorite.
Tells the whole story in one image. Thanks for taking us out there and back again.
-Scott Jett
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The Dak
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Thanks to all for the kind words. I'm really glad that you've all enjoyed the words and photos. For various reasons I almost never posted the story to begin with, but now I'm very glad that I did.
@climbski2 -- thanks for the Kipling poem. I hadn't see that one before and I was very struck by his words. Now THAT is some excellent writing!
@marty(r) -- you definitely can't beat Ana's alfajores, that's for sure.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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WOW! Well done, well done, well done.....thanks for the effort!
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crøtch
climber
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Amazing writeup. So raw and real. This deserves to be on the front page.... of Alpinist.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Apr 25, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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Bump. Way to put it all out there!
 Luke
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nopantsben
climber
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Jun 23, 2013 - 02:51am PT
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wow, super good write-up. it's always great when people are honest.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Jun 23, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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Wow! and wow! again,
A remarkable adventure, the endurance, skill, and belief required for something like the Care Bear is mighty impressive. All the more so given the pointless audacity of the line.
You deserve 'Conquistador' (of the Useless) status ;-)
Great Stuff.
Steve
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Jun 23, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Wonderful! Thanks...
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Sep 23, 2014 - 10:39am PT
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What a GREAT post. Wow!
The Care Bear Traverse - looks like one of the best lines in the world.
Thinking this prep work ought to get me ready.
Matthes --> Conness North --> Conness West --> T-Bolt to Sill --> .5 Evo?
Tag those over a few years, should be good to go for the Care Bear after that, yeah? Haha.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Sep 23, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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It seems I have missed this until now. Quite unfortunate, being that this is some well rounded top shelf, I'm jelly like you don't believe, type stuff.
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