Black Wall at Mt Evans Update

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Messages 1 - 77 of total 77 in this topic

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 19, 2006 - 05:57pm PT

So I just got back from playing hooky today. Hiked to the top of the Black Wall to check out conditions -- they're good.

I think the Black Wall is one of Colorado's best kept secrets, with vertical, featured climbs from 4 to 8 pitches that top out at around 13,000 feet. There's no guidebook. The only topos I know of are from a 1990 (or was it 1989?) article by Ken Trout in R & I. The cover was a classic - Jeff Lowe on Road Warrior.

I remember that as soon as I saw that cover, I was on the phone with Clean Dan - "we have got to do Road Warrior!" Two weeks later, we did it - one of some 20 times or so that I have climbed there.

Every time I've climbed at the Black Wall there have been one or none other parties. Every party I saw was on Good Evans - the classic, easier route (one move of 5.11-). The other free routes from the Trout article were Road Warrior, the Rappel Route, and Coffee Achievers.

I ended up putting up 4 routes in the early '90s, Cary Granite (with Clean Dan), Espresso (with Clean Dan), Cannonball Corner (with George Lowe), and Roofer Madness (with George Lowe). at the time I remember thinking "thank god for sport climbing - these gems would have been plucked if every one was still climbing trad". I have never heard of anyone doing these routes even though they are all multi-pitch 5.11 classics.

Roto-Router. If you're up for it, how about Road Warrior this Saturday?

Here's a little taste. This is a picture of Clean Dan and I on the first ascent of Cary Granite (5.11c).

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jun 19, 2006 - 06:05pm PT

Great Pic;
Got any more?

Couloir

Trad climber

Yosemite, CA

Jun 19, 2006 - 06:06pm PT

That's nice. What's the crack system to the right?

binky

Big Wall climber

boulder

Jun 19, 2006 - 06:07pm PT

aww man!

now you've done it. Cat's out of the bag.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2006 - 06:13pm PT

The crack immediately right is Good Evans (5.11-). The next crack over is Road Warrior (5.10+).

Hey, does anybody have that cover of Jeff Lowe on Road Warrior? Scanning and posting here would be much appreciated.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2006 - 06:21pm PT

Here's another of Cary Granite. There are two cruxes - getting to the incipient crack (5.11c) and then ascending the first part of the crack (5.11c).
Near the crux on on Good Evans

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Jun 19, 2006 - 10:21pm PT

Was up there with Trout some twenty odd years ago. Nice piece of rock when its dry.
I have nothing against establishing routes on rappel. Sometimes it helps one do a better job. But I think Ken should have made it clear when this tactic was used.

Is there still camping nearby?

Kevster

Trad climber

Evergreen, CO

Jun 20, 2006 - 12:52am PT

WHat is the scoop on the routes on the right side of the wall...any of those aid climbs get freed? looks like lots of potential for 12+ sickness over there.....Would love to find out more about your routes up there Grug.....

flamer

Trad climber

denver

Jun 20, 2006 - 12:59am PT

I was also up there on a little recon mission today.

I didn't hike to the top, but i did glass the wall. Looked pretty dry!I was surprised how little snow there is!!!

Grug...I'd love to do Road warrior!!! But only if I get the crux pitch(s)...Mr. i've done it 20 times!!!
Nice.

Also I'd been spying the line that is roofer madness for the last 3 years. With no guidebook, and no other info out there I'd planned to "pluck" it myself...then I saw it posted on Mountainproject....you should have seen me moping around the rest of the day!!

I have a couple of other ideas for stuff up there if you're interested???? E-mail me I've got lot's of time off and am plenty motivated right now.

josh

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 08:19am PT

Oops - fixed that first too-wide image...thught I'd fixed that earlier.

Piton Ron. I guess the nearest camping would be at West Chicago Forks CG, about 20 mins away. Didn't know about how Ken did the FAs. I can tell you that the four I did were done from the bottom up, although I did rappel to inspect and do a little cleaning on Roofer Madness. Depending on your ethics, I suppose that tainted the FA, but I have to tell you, the day I rappeled RM was one of the funnest days I have ever had in the mountains.

Kevster. Coffee Achievers and Expresso, both free routes, are way right on the Black Wall - just south of the obvious gully that ends the wall to the north. I know of two aid climbs in between the Road Warrior Buttress and these free climbs, the Rusty Dagger and Parallel Universe. George Lowe and I actually tried to free Rusty Dagger. We didn't do it, not the least because I got altitude sickness that day. It's a bit dirty and may go at hard 5.11 or 5.12 would be my guess.

BTW, Coffee Achievers and Espresso, both good routes, do tend to be the wettest. There's currently a big block of snow above the chimney pitch. Pretty much every time I've done either of these routes the chimney has been wet.

Flamer. I feel your pain about missing out on those FAs. Roofer Madness is incredible. In my 30+ years of climbing, I really have not done many FAs - so I don't feel too bad. I'd do RW with you. I have done it maybe 5 times, so the leads are not important to me. I'd really like to hear somebody's account of either Roofer Madness or Cary Granite. These were put up 15 years ago now. I realize there's no guide or info about them, but they are obvious lines. Oh yeah, there is at least one project on the Roofer Madness wall, west (to the climber's right) of Roofer Madness.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 08:32am PT

Roofer Madness, 5.11b. This buttress can be seen from the top of the Black Wall, looking southeast. The roof on Roofer Madness (between belay 5 and 6) is huge.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

Otto, NC

Jun 20, 2006 - 09:52am PT

yo-ho! That roofer thing is indeed a nice line. I just returned from a bit of high-summer recon of my own. There's no Black Wall around here. Yet. Saturday I need to be home in time for a going away party for some friends moving to Eagle:(, but we could maybe squeeze that one in. I'll see if I can scare up Mr Bevan and maybe we can make a 4-some?

landcruiserbob

Trad climber

the ville, colorado

Jun 20, 2006 - 10:17am PT

Great photos!!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jun 20, 2006 - 10:56am PT

Yes, a cool thread indeed.
Keep it comin'

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 11:03am PT

The top of the Black Wall. This flat top makes for wet conditions in the early part of the season, but not this year.
The roof system at the top of Road Warrior Buttress. The flake and crack is on the 2nd pitch of Good Evans.

flamer

Trad climber

denver

Jun 20, 2006 - 01:04pm PT

Grug, how about sunday for RW??

I think I've seen the other obvious line you were talking about on RM butt. It look pretty good, but RM was/is defiantly the gem.

I also thought about trying to free Rusty Dagger I'm planning a rap/recon/anchor replacement day....interested?

josh

landcruiserbob

Trad climber

the ville, colorado

Jun 20, 2006 - 01:18pm PT

More photo's please.rg

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 01:25pm PT

Flamer. Turns out Rhodo-Router and I are going to do RW on Saturday. Come along if you'd like. I'll need to be with my girls on Sunday - sorry. This'll be only my 4th day out since shoulder surgery. Let's keep in touch. I'd definitely be interested in Rusty Dagger. At some point you've got to do Roofer Madness - in fact, I'd like to do it again.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 01:41pm PT

Here's the view looking east from the Black Wall.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber

Toquerville, Utah

Jun 20, 2006 - 01:41pm PT

Grug,
I don't have a problem with rapping. The only thing that taints an "ascent" is lack of candor. I've said enough.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 01:51pm PT

PR. I have to tell you, one of the reasons rapping Roofer Madness was so exciting was that, from the top of the roof pitch, a rope will be hanging out in space some 40 feet from the wall. Actually had to down-aid the roof pitch in order to get down.

Another thing about Roofer Madness, you can ascend some ledges from the top and gain access to the climb just below the crux pitch.

P.S. The Roofer Madness buttress is north-facing and the cracks on any FA will probably require some extensive cleaning.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 02:53pm PT

OK. Last pic. This is a view of the northern part of the Black Wall from the base of the Road Warrior Buttress. Rusty Dagger goes up the orange-colored rock on the left of the photo. Parallel Universe is to the right of that. On the far right (not easy to make out the lines) are Coffee Achievers (love that name) and Espresso (derivative).

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2006 - 03:19pm PT

Zardoz. It is actually with some trepidation that I started this thread, and I'll probably get some sh#t from a couple of my friends. This area has felt like my own personal playground for a long while now. But, I figure after 15 years of doing those FAs with no formal writeups or topos, and the fact that the Black Wall still sees hardly any traffic, it's time to let some others in on this fantastic climbing area.

Andy D

Trad climber

Colorado

Jun 20, 2006 - 03:22pm PT

Just to fill in the blanks, Cameron Tague and I tried Rusty Dagger back in '98, and freed all but the last pitch at 12a. On the last pitch (my lead) I had to hang a couple of times but its probably 12-, just a bit damp, slimy and wide (as were the previous 2 pitches. The anchors were sufficient. Rack: rps up to camalot 5.
The real excitement came about 4 feet below the summit, after all the difficulties were behind. I mindlessly pulled up on a huge flake, which cut loose with me following. Ended up dangling back below the top roof with what turned out to be a broken trocantor major (top bit of the femur). Managed to frig my way back up to the top, but Ive never had the urge to return and clean up.

flamer

Trad climber

denver

Jun 20, 2006 - 07:41pm PT

Grug,

No worries RW just isn't the easiest route to fing partners for...I might be up for RM though, let me know when you have some time.

Andy...last I heard the anchors on RD where a bad mix of old bolts and leeper hangers? I've check the top anchor and planned to replace it for sure. So what did you see for the anchors? Thanks for the info on Freeing RD!!

josh

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

Otto, NC

Jun 20, 2006 - 07:45pm PT

Josh-
try Clint Dillard. He's due for a rematch.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jun 20, 2006 - 11:29pm PT

I agree with Zardoz about us just wippin' out the goods and sharing here in the forum.

BVB said essentialy, with regard to posting about Gran Trono: "hey it's an open source forum, bust with the info".

Sure, we have lurkers, but I think there are not that many of us and the campfire analogy fits. When the stuff drops from the page, its pretty much gone, and we will be soon enough gone too so let's share now (except I bookmark all the tasty stuff and save entire threads to CD).

Phantom Fugitive

Trad climber

Misery

Jun 21, 2006 - 12:07am PT

grug-

I once spent a summer running, bouldering, and climbing at least two days a week on Evans. Funny though, I never climbed on Black Wall. I really wanted to find the cherry unplucked line, but never was satisfied with what I found.

I contacted everyone I could about routes in the chicago lakes basin. Even talked to the ranger who had been climbing there for 20+ yrs on Mt Evans as well. Decided on a few lines on Mt. Warren(just across from Black Wall). It summits around 13,000, and on it's west flank has a few lines that were worth it, and some fun cragging up high.

Here's the approach:

Looking across at Black Wall:

First Pitch of 9 pitch 5.9 called Wild At Heart (Paul Chambers climbing):

Up higher on same route:

It is a fun place to play, but the logistics can be a bit more obnoxious than the user friendly Black Wall.

One Route in particular was really great- a crack line above the second Chicago Lake- 6 pitches with the fun bit a sustained 10+ corner on a pronounced buttress.

-P to the F

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 09:53am PT

So we got a (nearly) free ascent of Rusty Dagger - good job! I figured there had to be some activity up there through all of these years. I wonder about the other obvious lines, like Cannonball Corner and Cary Granite...since they weren't written up, surly somebody must have done them - maybe even thought they had a FA?

I've done a little climbing at those cliffs above Chicago Lakes PF. Didn't realize there was anything that good there.

Phantom Fugitive

Trad climber

Misery

Jun 21, 2006 - 10:26am PT

Grug-
Certainly nothing better than Black Wall. It was much exploring before finding something worth roping up for.

Rusty Dagger was on my "to do" list before moving back east. Never got to it...

Do you know of anytyhing on the east facing white pillar around the cirque from Black Wall? I always thought that looked promising, but never went to the base.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 10:30am PT

East-facing white pillar? I'm not tracking. Is is north or south of the Black Wall? The Black Wall pretty much faces due east.

Phantom Fugitive

Trad climber

Misery

Jun 21, 2006 - 10:34am PT

It is west of the B Wall, climbers right. If you were to walk up from the p lot and look over the basin, you'd be looking straight at it.

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 10:39am PT

OK sure. Overall, it's rather broken, but it does appear that you could do some one to two pitch routes on some of the more compact sections. Last year, I hiked over there from the valley to do some recon. I actually broght a pencil and paper and drew up some of the more promising lines. There's no sign of activity there.

Phantom Fugitive

Trad climber

Misery

Jun 21, 2006 - 10:45am PT

Cool!

There really isn't any other place with simpler access at it's altitude. I was always surprised to have it to myself.

Fantastic photos! Thanks for posting them.

Andy D

Trad climber

Colorado

Jun 21, 2006 - 12:22pm PT

Josh
I dont recall the anchors being an issue. Most of the belays we built ourselves - there may not have been anything fixed. I remember thinking that the top pitch could do with some cleaning - theres some nasty stacked blocks under the top roofs. Have a blast
Andy

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 12:47pm PT

A little story about Roofer Madness. It ended up taking something like 4-5 attempts before finally completing the FA (unlike Cary Granite, Espresso, and Cannonball Corner which went on the first try). I tried it I think 3 times with Clare Dunning. Basically, we kept getting rained off. On the last attempt with Clare, I had just freed the crux roof pitch and while Clare was following, it began raining. By the time Clare got up, it was pouring with lightening crashing all around us. From that exposed belay, there’s no way that you can rap straight off, as your rope is some 40 feet from the wall, hanging out in space. Luckily for me, I elected to down-aid the thing, which immediately got me out of the rain. Poor Clare got soaked. The conditions were surreal with the lightening and thunder. I remember feeling absolutely exhilarated – the fact that we failed didn’t matter.

Kevster

Trad climber

Evergreen, CO

Jun 21, 2006 - 02:12pm PT

Hey Flamer (Josh W?) I might be able to get out on Sunday for a run up RW, always looking to improve my OW skills. Send me an email if you want to try and get up there. Also good job on the Black linkup...sounds like someone else had got to my stashed H2O on Pigeon?

I remember that the anchors at the top of Rusty Dagger were a bit wierd, but I don't remember why. Looks like a cool line though, I have some ASCA hardware that I would contribute to a replacement effort.

The line I was scoping was to the right of RD, a pewter colored left facing corner which looked steep and clean down low and wide and nasty up high. Know the one I am talking about Grug?

Grug

Trad climber

Golden, Colorado

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 21, 2006 - 02:27pm PT

I would assume the line is visible in my post that starts off "OK last pic". Basically, the general vicinity but maybe not actual line of Parallel Universe, I'm thinking.

Kevster

Trad climber

Evergreen, CO

Jun 21, 2006 - 04:44pm PT

Yea, I am thinking that is it to the right of the black streaks and left og the big roofs. The bottom 1/2 of the route was much more distinctive than the top if I remember. I guess I better just shut up and go check it out! :)

flamer

Trad climber

denver

Jun 21, 2006 - 06:11pm PT

Kevster,

I'm in for sunday. But I'm not The Josh you're thinking I am. Not even close!!

I hiked out the crags just North? of the Black wall last summer with some Bino's. I picked out a couple of lines that looked quite promising. In fact there is also a face below that that looks as if a few 1-2 pitch routes would go and be quite good. Some of that area reminds me of the infamous "hot pocket" in RMNP...which is still super secret and a wicked good place to tune up for high altitude hard rock.

josh

esteban

Trad climber

golden,co

Jul 14, 2006 - 12:58pm PT

hello-
does anyone know where i can get a topo of the black wall on mt evans??
I don't have any old climbing magazines or access to hubbel's out of print guide book. if you have one and can send it to me or allow me to copy yours, i would really appreciate it-
thanks

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jul 18, 2006 - 10:25am PT

I'm feeling an overwhelming urge to play hooky tomorrow and do something on the Black Wall (could it be the 100 degree temps?). Anybody interested?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jul 18, 2006 - 11:41am PT

dang, that's tempting.
anything there 5.9- ?
dreamin' I'm sure...

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jul 18, 2006 - 12:44pm PT

Tarbuster, 5.10+ is the easiest route. I was thinking about doing either Road Warrior (5.10+; I was going to do this with Rhodo-Router a few weeks ago but we ended up doing Cannonball Corner instead), Coffee Achievers (5.10d) or Espresso (5.11a). I could be talked into Roofer Madness (5.11b) as well.

426

Sport climber

Buzzard Point, TN

Jul 18, 2006 - 01:45pm PT

Looks like there is some badass pebble rasslin' going down in that area. Anyone been out there with some big foam?

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jul 24, 2006 - 11:36am PT

Finally got around to this. Here's a topo of Road Warrior Butress - which has some of the best climbs on the Black Wall. The basis for this topo is Ken Trout's 1989 or 1990 article.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Jul 24, 2006 - 11:55am PT

426:
I 'been wanting to head out to Evans fer some V nothin' highballs.
'Last time I asked the incumbent beannie wearin' studs about it, they said it was no longer hip, already too crowded!

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jul 31, 2007 - 12:32pm PT

Last Sunday on Cary Granite - Tom Dickey following the crux pitch. Photo courtesy of Taco Bill. The flake at the crux is just as sharp as can be.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Jul 31, 2007 - 01:11pm PT

wicked Grug, just wicked!

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 1, 2007 - 11:33am PT

So was that some of you hard guys I saw about 6:30 Monday morning, camped at Summit Lake?
Planning on climbing "Good Evans and a new route"?
I was the duffer hiking past for an early-morning jaunt up Mt Spalding.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Aug 1, 2007 - 12:09pm PT

That wasn't me or mine, Chiloe.

Edit - I wonder what the new route was?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Aug 1, 2007 - 03:04pm PT

I've been driving Lisa up to Echo Lake for the past 4 Thursdays: she runs the 12 miles to Evan's summit where I pick her up.

To bide my time on one of these, I did a quick scramble down to Bierstadt's East Ridge, over the Sawtooth and on up to Evans.

Maybe one more of those before she run's Pikes Ascent race. So I'd like to peruse the Evan's boulders. Anyone know how to find 'em? I hear there are 3 distinct areas.

taco bill

Trad climber

boulder, co

Aug 1, 2007 - 04:07pm PT

Couple more pics from sunday. We did Good Evans.

Hiking in

Rapping with the line to the right

pitch 1

following p1

p2, perfect hands

p3, a bit o chimney

And of course the summit pugilists

goatboy smellz

climber

colorado

Aug 1, 2007 - 04:28pm PT

Excellent A., way to go...

cuz as todd gordon says in another 42 days you're

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Aug 1, 2007 - 05:43pm PT

As awesome as it is to climb the Diamond (I actually did the Obelisk the weekend before), the Black Wall gives you a similar experience with a much higher ratio of climbing to hiking. Too bad there are not nearly as many routes on the Black Wall.

Chiloe

Trad climber

Lee, NH

Aug 1, 2007 - 06:47pm PT

Nice photos, that looks like a fine place to be climbing. Maybe some day I'll get out there.

flamer

Trad climber

denver

Aug 1, 2007 - 07:41pm PT

Nice guys!!
I actually had plans to do a new route out there a week or so ago..but then my carpal tunnel kicked up and I had to bail.
Surgery in August...so it looks like I'll have to wait until next summer. Hopefully one of you doesn't get to it first!!!

josh

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Aug 1, 2007 - 07:50pm PT

um, eh, maybe you could let us know which line it is you were eying so, ya'know, we know which one not to fire off?

(eeyonkee style edit):
Ok, Ok, I was kidding, really... I'd be lucky to take some photos of them sheep when in the area.
Heal up Josh.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Aug 1, 2007 - 08:16pm PT

Good luck with that surgery, flamer. We should do a route together there next year.

Rhodo-Router

Gym climber

Otto, NC

Aug 2, 2007 - 01:32am PT

Heal fast, Josh. Jeff B. mentioned you were having altitude-induced carpal trouble.

I've been poking around a lot near home, not getting out of town much. Nothing as cool as the Black Wall though.

flamer

Trad climber

denver

Aug 2, 2007 - 11:38am PT

Thanks!
The line I was looking at may or may not have been done. It's not on the Black wall itself though....I'll have to climb it and report back!

EE..we should definetly do a route up there next year.

josh

Brunosafari

Boulder climber

Redmond, OR

Aug 2, 2007 - 02:31pm PT

Eee onk yee Grug- Good job on the thin air cracks Greg! Thanks for the motivation!
Killer photos too. Be safe buddy! BA

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Aug 10, 2009 - 09:38am PT

Ar some point in this thread, someone was asking about the cliffs to the right of the Black Wall. Turns out, some routes went up in 2008 - the cliffs have been named the Tan Buttress's (I don't know why the apostrophe is there, but it is). I climbed one of the routes, Noth'n But A Good Time, 5.10+, this past Saturday with Mark Cartright. Pretty good route and a bit spicey, I'd have to say. The rock is actually better than I would have thought, though not as good as the Black Wall. I noticed that Johnny Copp was on the FA of one of the routes, Goat Food, 5.11-.

Still haven't heard of anyone doing the 2nd ascent of Roofer Madness. Everytime I look at the line, I can't believe climbers aren't all over it.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा, co

Aug 10, 2009 - 09:48am PT

How's the ice and snow down there this year?

I got turn backed on Longs this weekend because of ice on the route.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Aug 10, 2009 - 09:59am PT

It's actually pretty dry, surprisingly, considering the wet summer we've had. Roofer Madness appears to be dry even. I'm gonna try to get on that later in the month.

Don Paul

Social climber

Denver CO

Jun 15, 2018 - 08:32pm PT

I was just up in the Chicago Lakes valley under the Black Wall, where no one ever climbs. Here are my pictures from a couple years ago - it's an easy walk from a parking lot into this alpine area. The routes all look hard and scary, lol.

Brandon-

climber

The Granite State.

Jun 16, 2018 - 03:06am PT

Is this the Rusty Dagger? Nice line!

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Jun 16, 2018 - 04:12am PT

I used to climb up there back about 25 years ago, but I free-soloed that low-angled buttresses in the center, instead of the Black Wall. That is some really nice granite up there.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jun 25, 2018 - 07:27am PT

I noticed that a new, 7-pitch 5.11 route was put up to the climber's left of Roofer Madness, Mer Dascht (We Thirst). I'm going to try to get on it this season.
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114445061/mer-dascht-we-thirst

snakefoot

climber

Nor Cal

Jun 25, 2018 - 09:08am PT

love this place, amazing area

Don Paul

Social climber

Denver CO

Jun 27, 2018 - 10:08am PT

xCon this is not the Black Canyon, it's an alpine crag called the Black Wall on Mt Evans.

By the way, the other day I parked at summit lake and went the opposite direction from the black wall down a hiking trail (heading east). Not really a trail, just cairns every 100 yards so so. If you don't follow the cairns, and head off to the right and uphill, there is another climbing area on the other side. Here is a picture below, and a link to a google satellite map. Not sure what routes might be on it - there is nothing on Mountain Project - but not hard to get to if you know where it is. In fact, the boulder field below probably has easier access than any other bouldering area on Mt Evans. (probably - I didn't actually go down there)

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jun 27, 2018 - 11:48am PT

Don, I have checked that out from not too far away. It likely has some potential, but nothing like the Black Wall.

Don Paul

Social climber

Denver CO

Jun 27, 2018 - 03:20pm PT

Yes. For scale those Mt Evans boulders are up to 20' in size. It looks like you can descend on the right side. Getting down to Lincoln Lake was pretty sketchy, I doubt this is as bad. The Chicago Lakes trail boulders are a long hike. Plus look at all the snow at the base - for those who don't know, you can drive up to 14,000' and climb at that altitude without much of an approach. If a storm heads in, you should be able to get back to your car. People mapped out a lot of the boulders at Lincoln Lake, doing "first ascents," should check this place out. And there is a pitch on the wall that reminds me of the nipple on the Zodiac.

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jul 5, 2018 - 09:58am PT

Hey, I don't suppose anyone would want to do Mer Dascht or Roofer Madness with me this weekend? I was just climbing at the Black Wall yesterday and want to get back ASAP -- before monsoon season, which is right around the corner.