"Break-Up" climb

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GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 31, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
I've heard Left Ski Track at Tahquitz called the 'break-up climb' before, probably because witless youths bring their hapless newbie love interest up an incredibly steep and exposed "5.6". With comitting, exposed step-arounds and traverses (not to mention the idiot leader almost killing the second) it isn't a gimme at the grade, but looking up at a route that supposedly even has a bolt on it and is 5.6??? Like two moths to a flam.

Joshua tree might have Toe Jam Death Belay, or maybe Walk on the Wild Side / Right On, since a fair bit of drama happens pretty reg on that saddle.

Wonder what Yosemite might have... I know a story of a hardwoman taking her very fit, very beginner husband up Serenity Crack as one of his first rock climbs (I don't know how that ended up...) and from below witnessed a blowout good 'nuff for TLC. But I don't climb there much, and am not within earshot for 'the good stuff.'

Any others I'm missing?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 31, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
The first (and last) time my wife climbed anything besides a top-rope was snake dike and she started crying. Luckily she's forgiving!
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
Mar 31, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
I saw THE most epic couple meltdown on Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne once - the girl was crying, screaming at her BF, she was wearing what looked to be a 50 pound pack...

"Just get your foot up a little bit higher baby"

"I F*#KING CAN'T"

After we got above them a bit, I could hear her ripping into him - "I can't believe you took me on this/I'm not having fun/this is horrible..."

Maybe was a break-up?

I guess any climb could be a break up climb depending on the couple/party.
ruppell

climber
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:01am PT
Almost anything with an offwidth.
hillrat

Trad climber
reno, nv
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:23am PT
Why not go big wall style... you lead free climbing, she follows you up and cleans using ascenders on the fixed rope? Or vica versa. But then, of course, the ethics police might blast you.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:25am PT
As mentioned above, Cathedral Peak has to be a contender. I personally know of two different guys who dragged their girl up, which subsequently turned into a last date. In both cases he was have a fantastic day leading heroically to an impressive summit, and she was doing fine... just f*#king fine.

A funny story was that Galen Rowell nearly had a first/last date when he dragged Barbara up the backside/descent in what must have been around 1981. She insisted on roping up for the entire approach and he was gripped with fear that someone might witness the bizarre scene they were making. Somehow they survived, got married, and she loved to tell the story any time someone asked if she was a climber.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:32am PT
I've seen the first pitch of After Six brings out the worst in people.

I've heard bad things about overzealous BFs bringing their girl to Jailhouse with the promise of, "you can do a route or two there."
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:42am PT
Yes,Cathedral.I watched the HUGEST meltdown occur on the final pitch.I came up onto the last ledge unnoticed as the screaming ensued.The female was screaming "you completely ruined my f#%king day" and other things to that effect,all peppered with plenty of expletives.When they turned around and saw me they both seemed slightly embarrassed but just hurried outta there.I was having such a great day I couldn't believe that they were having such a bad one.I bet he bought at Whoa Nellie that night.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 12:43am PT
I've seen the first pitch of After Six brings out the worst in people.

Not true, for I have seen a man born in its crucible. Homeslice was GRIPPED the entire crux and mantled onto the belay looking like the guys standing up after the televangelist smacks them on the forehead. All smiles and elation.

Just kinda hard for a second, but for the leader its heads up somewhat committing ish slick liebacking that used to be called 5.6 but in actuality is harder than After Seven.

So, leader gets spooked... I guess sometimes that makes the leader kinda freak out on the belayer, which is a damn unfortunate scene to run across. 'Belay bitch' is just a joke people.... :)
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Apr 1, 2013 - 01:33am PT
Bitd my brother, me and a family friend bushwacked from Sentinel Dome to Glacier Point. The friend soon bailed to the road to hitch-hike back to the valley, cussing us out as he went.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 01:38am PT
N Ridge of Mt Adams:

"I need a rope!"

"No you don't, just be careful."

"I want a rope!"

"Come on, we don't have all day."

"Give me a Phukking rope!"

"Yes, dear. Now, see, you didn't really need it."
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Apr 1, 2013 - 01:43am PT
what kind of a jackwagon would bring their ol lady to the crags anyway?


keep em barefoot and pregnant, so that spaghetti sauce is ready to go when you get back, plus you get to get buzzed and work out on the fine while she crashes pots and pans,

boy i can hear the PITA chicks now: "thats why i turned lesbo, because of freaks like you!"
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 1, 2013 - 01:58am PT
Spocken like the Doc means it.




[The broke-down, wanna-see-her-underwear kinda jack wagon, of course.]
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 03:30am PT
Years ago, I took a young lady up the Regular Route on Fairview Dome for her second climb, ever. We did it in about 2.5 hours. Her first climb was the Line at the Leap. I don't think she ever climbed much after that.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Apr 1, 2013 - 07:23am PT
Some people just don't know how good the have it..
;)
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Apr 1, 2013 - 07:55am PT
Last October, while climbing the NEB of Higher Cathedral Rock, my partner and I passed a couple, half my age, around the 4th pitch.
The girl was climbing kind of slow.

We were near the top of the flared chimneys, after the traversing pitch, I heard the girl say in a whimpering voice, " don't you EVER bring me on another climb like this". Her boyfriend became very apologetic.

Going down the decent gulley, I could just make them out, pretty high up,
before you begin traversing left, on the white flakes.

Hope they had headlamps.
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Apr 1, 2013 - 09:01am PT
(haha, Tunnel Vision, yup)

"Break-up" climb(ing) to me means what my ex did. Never give me a chance to learn to lead better or get more miles on the sharp end because he could not be seen climbing anything easier than 5.10 after a while.

That snotty attitude, among other things, is what ruined it for me.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Apr 1, 2013 - 09:14am PT
There was no one particular climb, but I had a girlfriend who once she was able to follow anything I could lead, moved on to stronger climber. It was kind of irritating that she didn't move up to being the kind of partner you could swing leads with, but really it was all for the best.
lucander

Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
Apr 1, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Oh man, Tunnel Vision was a bad one for me and my lady back in 2004. She had a claustrophobic meltdown in the Tunnel. Hard to believe we stayed together, and even harder to believe we'd do just fine on Grand Wall at Squamish in 2012!

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 1, 2013 - 11:05am PT
The break up climb was the Direct NW Face of Half Dome!

My girlfriend was one of the best female climbers in Oregon in 1978. She went from guys being afraid to take her up stuff harder than 5.7, because that's what they could lead, to tagging along with me, to leading 5.10 herself. We were planning on doing the Direct together. Unfortunately, when the time came, she was stuck working a big fire in Central Oregon.

I had a partner who was chomping at the bit to do the Direct with me. I tried to justify it as "I'll have it wired when you and I go up there honey!" That went over like a lead balloon......

She married a guy with money who turned into a control freak, who wouldn't let her climb or kayak. That went over like a lead balloon too.....HA!
Hey dude, can you say divorce?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Apr 1, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Coming off the top of Tahquitz a partner and I settled in to watch a guy trying to haul his girl over the horn on Traitor Horn. He should have anchored right at the lip but was well over the hump and hadn't placed proper directionals to boot. It didn't sound good :).
Mikemcee

Social climber
Mill Valley, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 11:43am PT
The "I thought for sure it was going to end up being a breakup climb" climb.

I took my (now) wife up Snake Dike a couple of years ago when her family didn't have enough permits for all of us to hike the cables. Keep in mind, she's super fit but had NEVER climbed before. First day warmup was the Grack, second day we went up Snake Dike.

After we parted ways with the rest of our crew, her commentary went something like this.

-This approach is not fun in running shoes.
-I'm not feeling great about this. (While sitting at the base looking up at the route)
-How the....what the....
-I thought you said this route was popular (never saw another party)
-There is no way UP is the easier way off this thing. No WAY!
-And then 6 pitches of the chorus..."get me the F*@K off this F*@KING rock now! Which at one point also included me downclimbing a full pitch to get her psyched enough to start moving again.

The first question I asked after we topped out was "Are you ok?" Answer: Yes.

Second question I asked was "Would you do it again?" Answer: Of course, that was kinda fun!

Pretty much sums up both climbing AND relationships and after all that, she still married me.

Good thing she was hungry or she mighta whacked me with that ham sandw...
Good thing she was hungry or she mighta whacked me with that ham sandwich.
Credit: Mikemcee

Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Apr 1, 2013 - 11:57am PT
Haystack at the Leap.

DMT
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
Haystack was a "break-in" climb for me, so I'd have to respectfully disagree, Dingus ;).

Worked too well, methinks now. I should have hung at the roof, dammit! She was a true climbing snob, it would have driven her straight off.

....

My wife weathered a very atypical 5.11 trad onsight from me on our first date she didn't think was a date. We have only climbed worse together since then, lol.

I really thought it was a first date. It's funny how we change the facts to fit our story. Talking to her years later, I realized how lucky I was and how tenuous my purchase had been. Turns out I am not quite the irresistible man morsel I supposed. And it's only getting worse!
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
Cosmic lead some vertical 5.6 in the gorge that had large holds....When it came time for me to follow , i started whimpering and doing some Elvis dance moves...I couldn't follow the pitch forcing Cosmic to rap and clean the route...I haven't seen him since and did i mention the zombie pictures that ensued...? RJ
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 1, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Dingus, sounds like you've a story to tell!

Josiah, I hate seeing 'strong' men give huge packs to their GSs in tow, makes me want to slap them around a bit (quite a bit).

I saw a couple of climbers on Central Pillar, and the second was climbing with the 2nd rope, in a rope bag, on his back. I'm like, hey, you might want to trail that thing up behind you... I just got a scowl.

Later I saw these blokes over on some 5.11.

Some folks will never learn.
weezy

climber
Apr 1, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
the "break-up climb" usually occurs in a tent cabin in curry. all's fair in love and war. you don't lose your girlfriend, you just lose your turn.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 1, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
If anyone is looking for one, try Generator Crack. Zero approach and a lot of breakup potential in a short distance.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Apr 1, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
Yeah Jebus, apparently my first date with my ex wasn't a first date to her either. Climbing at Rocksport and then a beer at Bar of America. Seemed like a date to me. Years later, I learned that she just had wanted to go climbing. She stuck around for a good number of years though.

Glad I never put a ring on that one.
weezy

climber
Apr 1, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
"take me climbing!" ≠ "wanna go out?"

i still see my buddies fall for that line. they crater every time.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Apr 1, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Dingus, sounds like you've a story to tell!

D: Is that your boyfriend up there?
She: Yes
D: He's a complete prick for doing this to you.
She: 'THANK YOU AGAIN.'


DMT
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
As mentioned above, Cathedral Peak has to be a contender. I personally know of two different guys who dragged their girl up, which subsequently turned into a last date. In both cases he was have a fantastic day leading heroically to an impressive summit, and she was doing fine... just f*#king fine.

A funny story was that Galen Rowell nearly had a first/last date when he dragged Barbara up the backside/descent in what must have been around 1981. She insisted on roping up for the entire approach and he was gripped with fear that someone might witness the bizarre scene they were making. Somehow they survived, got married, and she loved to tell the story any time someone asked if she was a climber.

I'll have to show this one to my wife. The backside/descent was her first climb to a summit (she'd done some top-roping around Swan Slab the day before). We were engaged at the time. Unlike Barbara, though, my then-fiancee scampered up ropeless, except for the summit area, where we roped up. As I started belaying her, the rope stopped moving just when I could no longer see her, then I heard the whimpers, and had to coax her a few feet further to the cracks leading to the summit. She was in tears when she got there.

I thought I'd blown it for sure but, fortunately, she got a hold of herself, forgave me (probably because the scenery was so beautiful), got down without incident, and even has gone climbing again without drama.

They used to say that before they marry, a couple should do two things: Go camping, and play bridge. When they go camping, they'll see what each other is like when they're dirty, rather than all dolled up. When they play bridge, they'll see what each other is like when they're really mad. Unfortunately, this day and age that doesn't work. It's too hard to get a campground reservation, and no one under 60 knows how to play bridge. Climbing, though, is still a worthwhile pre-marital test.

John
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Apr 1, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
It wasn't a climb that triggered my divorce... I do have to say to my ex's credit that she was pretty tough when she was gripped out of her mind and totally trusting me on some scrappy 3rd/4th class on the west face of Lembert Dome.

Between that and our first climbing date at Castle Rocks, where I made her belay me with an (incorrectly constructed) biner brake because I forgot my shoes, harness, and belay device, she was destined to never be a climber. You live and you learn.
Crackslayer

Trad climber
Eldo
Apr 1, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
A cold belay in the dark this winter on the bastille almost did me in with my lady. I was pretty cold and took a BIG fall. She caught me but she got pretty banged up in the process. Hasn't belayed me since lol!
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
HAHAHAHAHAHA this thread is awesome!! Last year in Spain I drug the cool Wifey up the Fiesta route in Riglos, Spain. FULL on meltdown, so hienous but she stuck every move and never took the gonzo swing if you let go. It brought us closer than ever. Not really a break-up route but what a high functioning MELTDOWN it was.
La Fiesta de los Bicepes
La Fiesta de los Bicepes
Credit: Hankster

She was VERY upset for half the route.. lol
Credit: Hankster

TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Apr 1, 2013 - 06:12pm PT

Even though we had sex on a ledge early on the route...

The wet, splooge at very top of Royal Arches:

All I said was 'Just be cautious, it's a long ride'.
She demanded we pull the rope back out and that she get an anchored belay until we were well into the woods.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 1, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
Dang, that pic of Wacky says it all.

Cat in the Hat did the trick once for me (she claimed to be a 5.8 multipitch climber..how was I supposed to know she couldn't follow 5.6 and would have full on metldown on a belay ledge the size of my driveway?)
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Apr 1, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
that photo says "worked"

nice
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
FULL on meltdown!! I was so proud of her for following all those back to back 5.11 pitches and she just wouldn't stop crying or smile for the camera. I got her to show 2 teeth worth of smile here.
Credit: Hankster

She started out sorta stoked!
Credit: Hankster

Great climbing/break-up/meltdown/relationship/climbing thread!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
My ex would cry at least once per long route. Always loved it afterwards. Not once made me feel like it was my fault (because, you know, she AGREED to go...).

A bad ass female friend of mine said that her and her girl friend, when they climb, sometimes after a hard pitch just have a good cry. Then they finish the route. Sounds a lot cooler than the brooding, angst-filled warblers dudes are prone to.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
I think I was on Scimitar at the Leap in '07 when I watched a couple rage at each other on East Crack or East Face or something over to the right of me.

The boyfriend was leading, maybe 50 feet out and still climbing as they screamed and screamed until finally the girl says "F#ck you this is over!!" as she continued to feed rope. BF still climbing "F#ck me?! F#ckme??!! No! F#ck you!!"

So f#cking funny.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 10:39pm PT
My climbing partner and I have joked about recreating the scene elsewhere to make some people believe we were gay and breaking up. Jared was going to add "Oh yeah! I've been cheating on you!!"
Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Apr 1, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
The boyfriend was leading, maybe 50 feet out and still climbing as they screamed and screamed until finally the girl says "F#ck you this is over!!" as she continued to feed rope. BF still climbing "F#ck me?! F#ckme??!! No! F#ck you!!"

So f#cking funny.


^^ that's some funny sh#t right there ^^

when I feel a melt down coming, I'll generally say "I need some quiet time ... please "
aspendougy

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
Reminds me of a sweet story that I heard about Beverley Johnsen. She was climbing something with Loyd Price that was fairly hard, and, well, being a little bit old and past his prime, Loyd was having an awful time of it. She pretended to struggle and have trouble as well, so as to not make him feel so bad.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
lurking fear was the sight of probably our biggest wobbler. it was just so stressful, doing this big wall with my loved one. luckily there was nobody around to hear it. we got through it, and have since climbed el cap 21 more times together, but i wondered early on why i was stressing out our relationship with these big wall climbs. ss
MattF

Trad climber
Bend, Or
Apr 4, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
For me it was "The Owl" on The Dome up in Boulder Canyon, but it was actually post breakup. I had dumped this girl I had dated for 2 years in July, but that spring I had promised her I would teach her how to climb that summer, so a few weeks after the breakup, she called me and asked if I would still take her climbing. I felt bad about dumping her and hurting her feelings so I agreed.

Worst idea ever... I was belaying her from the top of the first pitch, and there's about a 20' section of splitter 5.6 hands maybe 3/4 up the first pitch after doing a bunch of blocky climbing. She gets to that point, and sees that I haven't placed any gear at all in this crack so it must have been really easy for me, but she can't get into it, and so she starts freaking out and traverses way over to the right onto a big ledge and proceeds to start yelling up at me and crying. Soon her wobbler is exacerbated by the fact that now she's not sure if she can reverse the moves off the big ledge back into the crack, and there's a wall just next to the crack that if she weights the rope and tries to swing over she's going to pendulum right into that wall.

I can tell you one thing - I was definitely not the right person to be up on that belay ledge 50' above her while she was freaking out...

Also, a few more routes I've seen couples epic on - First pitch of After Six, Bishop's Terrace, and then up here at Smith - Pioneer Route on the Monkey (hard/scary overhanging bolt ladder...), Zebra Zion, Gumby, Cruel Sister, and Full Nine Gallon Buckets.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Apr 4, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
I flat out refuse to take any girl I am dating climbing, unless she has been climbing *outside* for at least a year prior to my having met her.

Under no circumstances will I take someone even toproping because "they always wanted to try it". That's 99% of the time code for "I just want to be around you no matter what the activity". Or possibly "I know there's hot girls out there, and I want to keep an eye on you".

There is just waaaaay too much potential for things going sideways. Besides that, my climbing is my "me time". Why would I want a girl around 24/7? That's how people end up sick of each other.

However, all bets are off if the girl really is into climbing and likes to go of her own volition since before I knew her.

About 15 years ago when I was living in Tahoe, I briefly dated a very strong female climber. One of our first hangs was a trip to lover's leap where she wanted to take a try leading "mainline" an old Bachar, Kauk, Smith route that went at fairly stiff 5.11 and with small fiddly gear. Technical and intimidating.

The girl sketched her way through it, nervous as hell about climbing past teeny cams. She almost pitched, then pulled it together and fired it off! I could hear her whooping for joy at the top. I managed to follow cleanly and when I arrived at the top, we were both so amped up, we were close to just tearing off our harnesses and clothing and going at it right then and there.

That's pretty much the only kind of girl I would want to climb with. No offense to anyone else.
supafly

Trad climber
vancouver, bc
Apr 4, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
the traverse pitch to the bottom of Banana Peel in Squam has caused many a dirty word to be said :)

My friend took his lady up there on her first multipitch and they made it no further than that traverse. Although to get off she had to reverse the whole traverse again!
ncskains

Ice climber
Alaska
Apr 4, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
The boyfriend was leading, maybe 50 feet out and still climbing as they screamed and screamed until finally the girl says "F#ck you this is over!!" as she continued to feed rope. BF still climbing "F#ck me?! F#ckme??!! No! F#ck you!!"

So f#cking funny.

And the next thing you here, is "NO F#Ck You, Off Belay" lol

LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
Apr 4, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
ho man.. the microcosm of relationship. Once my partner and I were on an easy cruiser in RR and we are simul-ing passing other parties and we come up on a burnt out girlfriend belaying the boyfriend leader who is struggling like crazy breaking out in sweat 3/4 of the rope out. She's angry and done, he's calling directions on how to clean back to her, in between "take". Finally she just takes him off belay and sits back and starts to cry. She thinks he is secured. We can see that he is not. We get him back on belay and give her a hug , partner climbs up and secures boyfriend at top, secures upper belay to gf , I climb up and clean everyone's gear and get them started on the descent,while the fuming is still going on. In the meantime , over our walkie talkies, we can hear ANOTHER couple screaming back and forth at each other over their radios full on fight while climbing AND then a friend of ours comes on the radio to say "hey you guys are going at it what's up" thinking it's us fighting (which later becomes a whole gossip thing that my partner and I were fighting on this route.. lol). But our friend cannot make contact with us on the right band , we can't tell him what's up. We can just hear all these other parties. SO, we are chuckling with each other, having a great time, and on the descent we decide that with all these frustrated noobs we better check below the route in the deep shrubs and SURE ENOUGH ! MEGA big booty, new cams found, a #3 and a #2 , good locking carabiner on a sling and a nut all scattered around apparently dropped from above over the last few weeks. SCORE on Meltdown Sunday
Tod

Trad climber
Idaho
Apr 4, 2013 - 02:34pm PT
Speaking of Tunnel Vision;
Was trying to do Group Therapy in that area with my girlfriend. Her first multipitch.
Short version: Off route from first pitch; kept going through long run outs and really crappy belays to top out. When I stopped for a bite to eat she just looked at me and said; "Get us the f*#k out of here!"
She was a trooper though; didn't cry until the descent. Wasn't likely a first ascent but we called it "Pre-marital Counseling" anyways. Been married ten years and she still won't do more than sport climb with me!
RealOldTradClimber

Trad climber
Greenfield, NH
Apr 4, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
I was once climbing a very pleasant, and well-protected face route with my wife (who was indeed quite happy on it) and about 50 feet to one side of us was another couple climbing a really dirty, unpleasant chimney route which the girlfriend, quite rightfully, was not really appreciating.

Finally she just screamed at her about-to-be-her-ex-boyfriend and yelled, "All I really wanted was a dinner and movie!" I think that was the end of that climb and the relationship!
Chip

Trad climber
Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Apr 4, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Shockley's Ceiling in the gunks. Every weekend.
yellowdog

Sport climber
Living in St. Louis but the Blue Ridge is home
Apr 4, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
My buddies and I didn't stick around to find out, but I think this was probably the beginning of a break up climb (or worse) in Foster Falls near Chattanooga, TN:

Credit: yellowdog
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Apr 4, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
Knapsack Crack in the middle of winter.

She couldn't feel her feet or hands.


We hung out between the two boulders by Monk's Rock for a bit to warm up.
adikted

Boulder climber
Tahooooeeeee
Apr 4, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Took my first ex-girlfriend to table rock in NC for her first climb....she made it about one step up Jim Dandy 5.6?? Before she ripped into me in full crying why are you making me do this mode...needless to say after the bail we stashed the gear and went hiking while out other friends climbed...our relationship fizzled after that....lost a pair of trekking poles that day too.... Damn ex girlfriends!!

Greg
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Apr 4, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
A party of two was lowering off of Haley's Comet I believe, to the left of the first pitch of After Six. The boyfriend went down on one line and was starting to lower the girlfriend from the belay ledge at the top of the first pitch of after six.

-Umm, you can't lower from there.
-GF: WHAT??!!
-BF: Huh? Yes we can. -Still lowering.
-No, it's too far.
-GF: Wait! Stop!
-You'll run out of rope and she'll be stuck or be dropped
-GF: You need to stop!
-BF: No, it's fine.
-GF: STOP!

GF batmans back up 15 feet to the ledge. PISSED. I hope she dumped the guy. When someone is telling you don't do something because you might kill your girlfriend you DON'T get defensive and ignore them.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
My GF and I started climbing at the same time so I think we are doing really well at handling each other when she starts getting burnt out and cranky...

We have summer plans to do a handful of long moderates and I have been trying to workout in my head how I am going to delicately motivate her when we are 7 pitches up with several to go and she hits the wall...

It's funny how that is an important part of my training...



squishy

Mountain climber
Jun 17, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
That's funny you guys mention cathedral peak, it appeared there was a tearful breakup going on there at the base on saturday...
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Jun 17, 2013 - 02:36pm PT
the break-up track of two self realized climbers
is the subtle silence of other plans being made
brat

climber
formerly El Portal
Jun 17, 2013 - 02:47pm PT
OMG I can't believe it hasn't been mentioned yet...

I have always referred to Overhang Bypass on Intersection Rock as The Breakup Climb.

Girlfriend is following second pitch traverse, boyfriend didn't place much gear, girlfriend falls and is hanging in space, she doesn't know how to prussik, boyfriend is up top and can't hear her, so she hangs and cries and yells and is eventually coached through the mess by other climbers on the ground. I've witnessed this scene half a dozen times, and I've been the belayer for a similar scene (except I'm a girl, I wasn't dating my male partner, and he eventually (30+ minutes later) figured out to prussik... and I don't think he cried, but I'm not really sure)
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Jun 17, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
Funny, I took my wife up Overhang Bypass a couple of months ago.

I had done it many years ago but didn't remember the second pitch at all.

I led the first pitch, belayed her up and took a look at the traverse. I envisioned the scene described above.

I suggested that we bail. She agreed.

It was a wise choice.


jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
Jun 17, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
brat - that's hilarious! I've definitely witnessed something close to that on overhang bypass... Luckily you have that fun little cave to hang out and watch the drama unfold.

I love the guys who say "babe" after everything when they climb with their GF's.

"Yeah babe, you got it babe"

"Babe, you gotta get your foot higher babe"

"Nah babe, you gotta heel hook it"

"Babe, you're not doing it right babe"
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Jun 17, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
If your girlfriend says she doesn't like to boulder, but then tries to go for your sake, just tread lightly & be cool, ie: NICE. The common beta spray down and yelling of "come on!!!" "Just do the move". One tries to explain, look if you yell out "encouragement" all amped up style, I want to give up and fall. And also explained from gf is it would be preferred not to feel pressured, it needs to not matter whether top out occurs or not. Then there's the being almost at the top of some 15ft thing where the hardest move is, one doesn't want to make the move because it feels very hard, the yelling come on come on, then the obvious not going to do it and downclimb, then the all disappointed irritated sigh, ohhh god... you could have done that, the implied you should try harder. Then the gf mentions the fact that she doesn't have health insurance, and bouldering is not worth a broken ankle and season off climbing, and then a Jesus Christ in response, your friends arrive, and not a word spoken to me the rest of the most miserable 3 hours. So then we don't make it to climb at Granite Mountain, Magnolia Thunderpussy the next day, and I still feel jipped about that... oh well. that was the middle of the end.
ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Jun 17, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
HAHA

This is hilarious. I haven't seen that many couples break up, but I have seen climbing partner break ups...

To me, it shows just how much repression can go on within relationships! Climbing and otherwise..

I feel lucky that I have generally able to spot the dick climber boys who are likely to be dick climbing BFs.

'Hey! You Climb? I can totally take you up this bitchin' hard infamous route that must be your greatest dream to do. See this super hard problem I can do? I'll give you a spot on it! I'll show you all about climbing...!!'

Sorry dude, sounds like you're so insecure about who you are, that you have to build an image to impress me with... barking up the wrong tree, dude...too immature to go long, strong, and all the way to the top, and back again. I need more stamina and patience, both mind and body, than anything you can bring to the crag...

I don't know if it's where I climb, but I am far more likely to see climbing partner break ups than BF-GF break ups.

Now THOSE are just as hilarious...even my own few climbing partner break ups!

Cheers

LS




zeta

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Jun 17, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
I got another one for Cathedral!

Years ago, I taught my ex-bf how to climb--gym climbing, toproping--and somehow thought it'd be great to take him up Cathedral. I'd taken him up NW books the day before and he seemed fine, though in retrospect, I realize that he was actually pretty scared but didn't want to show it.

I led the first pitch, he starts climbing, gets to a spot 6 ft below the anchor and just....freezes. Refuses to move. When I ask him how he's doing ('are you ok' or the encouraging 'you're doing fine!') he gets more pissed. People standing on the ground yelling up encouraging words (or climbing and soloing past him and trying to talk to him), this does not help at all. After a really long time, he asks to be lowered, I rap off, we bail (so sad! I love Cathedral!). He's pissed at me for the rest of the weekend.

While we didn't break up on that climb, it was the beginning of the end. And definitely the last time I'll ever teach a bf how to climb.

I bet climbing break ups happen all the time on Cathedral!
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Jun 17, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
I think our last climb was Sunshine on Drug Dome...the clouds came in soon therafter...
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
Jun 17, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
Bring on the Nubiles 5.9+ at seneca rocks wv is a break up climb. You could almost hear the dimond ring bouncing down the cliff.

"Honey...Hurry up"
Female...."Im trying"

few minutes go by...thunder and lightingh getting closer...

"Will ya just, hurry the FUC up"
long pause....................."I could use a little bit more encouragement than hurry the Fuc up"
Gregory Crouch

Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
Jun 18, 2013 - 12:38am PT
Gelsa in the Gunks... overheard about 1988:

Woman, in tears, about 8 feet up from the bottom, unable to see her boyfriend on the first belay. Since she was unable to figure out the climb and was getting more and more scared, the BF got more and more angry and frustrated.

Pretty soon she was terrified, and bawling, and he was downright pissed.

Him, harshly: "Do you love me?"

Her, through sobs: "Ye...ye...yes..."

Him, more harshly: "Do you trust me?"

Her, through more sobs: "Ye... ye... yes."

Him, yelling: "THEN CLIMB!"

Utter silence in the Near Trapps.

She survived; I hope they didn't.
Cooker

Trad climber
LA, CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 02:34am PT

If this doesn't work, nothing will.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jun 18, 2013 - 03:16am PT
Credit: Todd Gordon

Here is a picture of my very kind, understanding and patient wife, and our son Lake....


Hiking up towards a climb on a very very hot day...my wife said to me, "We have never got into a fight before,...but if there isn't any shade up there....we are gonna;...and it's not gonna be very pretty...."........Lucky for me...there was shade;...and we did a new route too.......(Maybe she was bluffing....who knows....)......16 years later;...we still have not gotten into a fight;.....(Call Guiness book of records...we may be in.)...

Here's one of my favorite quotes from my wife about "having words" with each other....

"Why would I ever get into a fight with you;...you aren't as smart as me and you are wrong".........(can't argue that logic..).....I am so lucky to have married the right one...





For us guys;.....well, ...we have to survive the awkward years for males;....12 to 45 years old..........after that;...I believe it gets easier.

Men;.....1. We are born
2. We are wrong
3. We die

Keeping it simple....
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 03:17am PT
Haha Cooker, forgot about that video. Yep, that's a definite breakup.
KitKat

Trad climber
Strawberry
Jun 18, 2013 - 03:27am PT
One time... My ex decided it was a good idea to take me up a big wall and teach me how to aid climb.... Nuff said!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Jun 18, 2013 - 06:25am PT
Coming off the top of Tahquitz a partner and I settled in to watch a guy trying to haul his girl over the horn on Traitor Horn. He should have anchored right at the lip but was well over the hump and hadn't placed proper directionals to boot. It didn't sound good :).

Kind of embarrassing but I had a bit of a meltdown on Traitor Horn. There were 3 of us. Leader cruises the route. I'm next; no problem till I was under the horn. Could not figure out the move out from under the horn.

It was a frigging cold, windy day. So the third is hanging at the first pitch belay while I spend about 45 minutes trying to figure this move out. Third is constantly yelling (re: cursing) at me to get moving; he is freezing. So there I am, a .10c goober stuck forever on a .8 move.

Finally found the jug and pulled through, but third was pissed at me the rest of the weekend.

Not exactly a break up, but a sign of how it can happen.
tooth

Trad climber
B.C.
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:33am PT
Cathedral Peak,



I asked my wife to marry me on the top!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Traitor Horn could probably support a whole separate epic thread.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Jun 18, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Years ago my wife to be and I climbed Rawl Drive in TM. She by the way was a much better climber than me when we first met. Anyway I led the overhang did the traverse but didn't see the bolt up and right. I kept climbing out left on thin runout terrain and finally clipped a rusty 1/4" spinner. I look back over my right shoulder and see that I'm completely off route with no way of reversing my moves.

I'm about to die and she's pissed and says something about me being blind as a bat. I reached deep and continued climbing up unprotected 5.9 and 10a rock and finally reach a ledge with little rope left. I had some small TCU's and built a crappy belay and brought her up. As she reached the 5.10 terrain I told her not to fall. She gives me that "you are a complete idiot" look and smoothly climbs up to the belay and then runs it out to the top.

We've been together for 20 years only because I've continued to admit to my idiocy and take direction on a regular basis. In fact my life improved dramatically once I realized it was far easier to work for her than with her ;^) All kidding aside my wife is awesome, can't believe she puts up with my folly......being a man is a full time job.

Charlie D.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 18, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
I feel for you, Gal! And Magnolia Thunder Pussy is a gem that you will savor, when the time is ripe!

Here's a breakup climb you can appreciate Gal.; Areal Vermin at the Pit! I'd done it before, but hadn't sport climbed in a while, and it was one of my early forties birthdays no less... I sent it on lead! Then she did! Then, somehow later that day, We didn't send, and instead sent each other packing!

Life's like that sometimes....
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Jun 18, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
I took my girlfriend (at the time) up Tangerine Trip for my third El Cap route, BITD. We made it to the top but there was definitely some melt downs up there. One of the times, I called for gear she stood up on the portaledge and walked towards the belay/gear, like it was a sidewalk.

You can imagine what happened when she got to the edge?

Luckily, I was on something solid, ha ha.

Edit: I forgot to mention we had just bivied, so she wasn't exactly tied in short.
WBraun

climber
Jun 18, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
LOL !!!!!! ^^^^^
Karen

Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
Jun 18, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
I broke up with this ahole guy who kept taking me up super run out sketchy climbs up in T-Meadows. However, the other reasons he was one of those kinda guys who every time a woman would walk by us, he'd turn and watch her till she was out of site, PLUS, before the last trip we went on to the Eastside he stated we should talk about all our skelatons in the closet, so he proceeds to tell me he once lived the swinger lifestyle. WHAT A SCUMBAG!!!!! plus in general he was an a.

I dumped him as soon as I got home. Creep.
Philthy Phill

climber
Jun 18, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
I have tried on several occasions to climb Nutcracker in the afternoon, when the majority of climbers should be drinking cold ones in the meadow, only to be greeted by at least 3 parties waiting below the MANTEL!!! Usually someone's "significant" other, saddled with a 40lb pack, first multi-pitch climb, can be heard sobbing/cursing as the sun sets in the valley and on their relationship...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
I broke up with myself on a number of climbs.
crusher

climber
Santa Monica, CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
The Prince of Darkness in Red Rocks in the winter. Well, it was a warm spell but the frozen creek should have been a bigger red flag.

We didn't break up though. We got married.
AndyG

climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 18, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
I can never believe the idiots who have their inexperienced significant-other carry a pack full of stuff while seconding. When I climb multipitch routes with my wife my goal is that we both have a good time. I am a lot more experienced than she is. So I carry a pack with our shoes, water, food, etc. She doesn't have to carry anything except maybe a rain jacket. If I can't lead it carrying a pack with all our stuff I know she won't be able to climb it without a big struggle. Oh, and place gear after the crux on a traverse.

Andy
Leggs

Sport climber
Is this a trick question?
Jun 26, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
Gal shared:
If your girlfriend says she doesn't like to boulder, but then tries to go for your sake, just tread lightly & be cool, ie: NICE.
The yelling come on come on, then the obvious not going to do it and downclimb, then the all disappointed irritated sigh, ohhh god... you could have done that, the implied you should try harder. Then the gf mentions the fact that she doesn't have health insurance, and bouldering is not worth a broken ankle and season off climbing, and then a Jesus Christ in response, your friends arrive, and not a word spoken to me the rest of the most miserable 3 hours.

Yep ... been there... Horrible feeling.
I'm sorry you had to experience the feeling too.

Instead of feeling jipped, I now feel free and much happier climbing with truly supportive friends who are proud of my efforts, no matter what.

~peace
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Jun 26, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
Oh, and place gear after the crux on a traverse.

been there!



I have been reforming my list of climbing partners too. I'm too old at this point to deal with negative people.
alina

Trad climber
CA
Jun 6, 2014 - 12:32am PT
Sometimes, the break-up climb is actually a weekend spent apart, climbing with somebody else for the first time in a long while. And you realize you're having 100% more fun climbing with less stress/yelling.
#STConfessions
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