Patterson Bluff

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 156 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 10:56am PT
That's funny Ksolem, Leversee and I hung out at a/ the school teacher's house
Too. We sat in the living room while their kid practiced their violin lesson. Kind of a unique situation.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:03am PT
As I recall, he guys name was John? Can't think of his last name. Herb would know. Something like Scow?
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:08am PT
The climb, The Sun also Rises, is an amazing line, with rock comparable to the South Face of Half Dome, and goes all free at well protected 12c.

Patterson Bluff is an amazing crag!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:27am PT
What about that bear hugging Hilda, or whatever it is route, Coz?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:27am PT
Kris and Jay, it wasn't the home of John and Shirley Collins, was it?

John
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:41am PT
We named every pitch on the climb for some reason, Helga was a name ,we gave to kooky German waitress at the local restaurant.

The send Helga Pitch is the crux and require big stems and endless side pulls...

I think the guys thought Helga liked me and I was the only one who could do the pitch, so it became the. Send Helga. LOL

It was a fantastic climb with two great people and partners, one of the best ever. I'm surprised it's not more popular as it's not too bad and well protected.

It's a nine pitch climb, up the beautiful buttress of Paterson Bluff, bolt and gear protected. Done in 94 I think?

DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Loving all the posts. Good info. Hopefully it will raise some interest. Have to look for that soda machine on the way out next time.

Jaybro, hit me up next time you go back to the flake. I would love to go if I am free. Prob just be a belayer on stuff in the 12s but can yard up any rope...haha.

Ksolem, Wedding Wall definitely drew our attention as well soo many other spots up there but because of time restraints and and the PO we decided on DU Dome. Put up No Oakey .10b (posted on RC.com). How did your approach start, up or down?

Can't wait to go back. Prob have another 3-4 weeks before it gets hot.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Kris and Jay, it wasn't the home of John and Shirley Collins, was it?

That doesn't sound right. I'll ask Herb.

Davey we went up from the bottom, walked up the dirt road and then up the hill. But like I said here was a fire which cleared the PO...
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:36pm PT
The school teacher was John, quite a character. He used to bicycle from his house up to the top of the penstock road and back, after school. We climbed some gulleys from there up to the top of the bluff one time, but I never did any routes from there. While you guys were really hitting that wall I was slacking off and mostly kayaking. Now the kayaking seems to be mostly done and I am climbing a lot again. Pretty stoked to be feeling good on rock.

John and Coco Scow first met Mike Borrelli and I as we descended from climbing Crescent Crack at Antenna Rock; the obvious rock with an antenna, above the road on a sharp corner directly above Balch Camp. I and my family stayed with the Scows a lot. Many climbers and kayakers and canyoneers also benefited from their generosity. They live in Fresno now and the school sits pretty much abandoned.

The daughter, whom you heard practicing, Eva Scow, has become an accomplished musician specializing in mandolin, playing with the likes of David Grisman, Allison Krause, Attwater, Mike Marshall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XoIFmBMww4
http://www.evascowmusic.com/?page_id=2

Thought you might enjoy this side note.
ec

climber
ca
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
We named every pitch on the climb for some reason - coz

LOL, that's an M.O. of Leversee. I sorta picked up on that from him.

 ec
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
...playing with the likes of David Grisman, Allison Krause, Attwater, Mike Marshall.

That is so beautiful! Thanks.

Paul, did we meet once at the bridge over the North Fork there once around 1992? I stopped and chatted with some paddlers there, and there is this vague memory bubbling to the surface of meeting someone with your name. I'd have been driving a robins egg blue sports car...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
What a cool thread this has turned into! I'll heads you up for sure next time davey Tree. I'm in Moab now and it won't be till the fall though.

'"John" the sounds right, I think I remember the penstock bicycling story.

Again cool hat this thread took off other ones I started on this have been kind of limp sauce....
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 29, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
That is quite possible Kris. I would have been up there a lot at that time and if somebody was kayaking the NF that year, pretty good odds it was me. I would not remember the color of your car though.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
I would not remember the color of your car though.

Fair enough, I don't remember the color of your boat either..:-)

Laeger and I did several good one pitch routes left of that Wedding Wall too. We got into a Buckminster Fuller theme for names, I think we called one the Dimaxicon and another the Horrendicon. That one was fairly hard. I recall going up first, and at what I thought was a nice stance at a reasonable height I started to get set up to place a bolt. Herb yelled up at me "What are you doing!?" I thought it was fairly obvious. Then I hear "You have to go up higher, we have reputations to uphold!!" I thought that was a pretty funny remark to make considering that this climb would never, in all likelihood see another ascent. I mean who the heck is going to do that approach to do single pitch routes? I came down and let Herb go up. He went waaay up...
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
Man, this place has been so quite unless you are in the know and even then all the routes, stories and history has been mostly unreported. Keep it coming. Let's hear some more stories. Love it. Other than good scenary and climbing, the ones I have is getting PO and flat backing it on a slab while goofing around by the creek while a bit intoxicated. Maybe next weekend will bring more stories.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 29, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
you rap in from the top. 10 min to the top from the car.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Scott, that's what I hear but haven't tried top down yet. I have been told there are several rap routes on both sides of the main bluff. Anyone have good directions to the starts? I prob won't make the top until fall. Snow blocking road to top rt now and when it melts I will be jumping on other projects up 168.
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
Sorry,

I was with Richard L, and just followed him, but rapping in from the top was easy. We worked on the climb like seven or eight days, so we were up and down a lot.

The approached looked burly as I recall.

Surprised this cliff isn't more popular as, The Sun also Rises, is one of the top free climbs I've ever done, just beautiful climbing.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Sounds like The Sun also Rises should be on my bucket list. Need to get in good shape for something like that though. Every time I get up there my mind goes wild with all the possibilities. Good to know what already done. Cuts down on the scouting for new lines.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 29, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
The link Rene' (Radish) posted above has some info about the rap route and a topo for The Sun Also Rises
Messages 21 - 40 of total 156 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews