Patterson Bluff

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Messages 141 - 156 of total 156 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
Guyman, I think those might be above the reservoir further toward Wishon. There is a LOT of rock a long the road and in the river bottom. I know one area is about 1,000' to the river bottom. Haven't driven it in years. Now I am going to have to take another look. Nice pics. Tks.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 9, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
Guy,
At first I thought it was the formation named "Black Rock Dome" in Clint's new guide, but from the photos that are posted I can't tell.
I'm pretty sure your photos are of Black Rock Dome.
Compare DavyTree's photo with your upper photo - they both have the big arches on the left hand side, corners to the right, trees on top, etc.
Black Rock Dome - north and slightly west of One Pitch Wonder
Black Rock Dome - north and slightly west of One Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
Two views of same cliff. <br/>
Kings Canyan
Two views of same cliff.
Kings Canyan
Credit: guyman
Your lower photo is a view of the same dome, from further north, so the arches on the left side are not as prominent.
Nice photos!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 9, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
Looks like black rock dome to me
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 9, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
Me too...
THX.

So no known routes???

Killer, looks like its above the dreaded PO.


And Micronut says there be big browns in Black Rock... Im stoked.

I have more photos from that trip, some are of the formations already identified. will post soon.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
Guyman, don't know what I was looking at but I think you guys are right about those being BR dome. It is definitely above the PO. Approach might be better from Ross Crossing above. Never fished the lake but heard from others it can be good.

It looked like there was a wall of some sort to the north of BR reservoir when looking from the top of 1-Pitch Wonder.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
So no known routes???

Actually, I hadn't really checked carefully.
There is at least one route, done by Richard Leversee, naturally,
and reported in the 1997 AAJ.
http://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA141&lpg=PA141&dq=%22Black+Rock+Dome%22&source=bl&ots=xyHZ3bn61n&sig=MA6sUy3DGZ5J_0ZxCZKiJcInYZI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=miBmUYCOAcnKqQG2rIGwDg&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=%22Black%20Rock%20Dome%22&f=false

They described "gnarly bushwhacking along the base" when approaching from the NW via Ross Crossing Road.

I've added it to the route list:

58. Bad Day at Black Rock 5.10+, 4p, in center, 1: knobs and bolted face, then cracks and face climbing next to chimney, AAJ 1997
FA: Jim Zellers, Pete Taylor, Richard Leversee, 8/1996

I also modified the overlay for Black Rock Dome with my best guess at the location of this climb.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
Nice find Clint. It just keeps getting better and better. I would love to see his notebooks.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 10, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
I'm curious, has Richard Leversee seen or posted on any of this stuff??
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
Rene,

Scott Cosgrove sent Richard Leversee an email at the end of March, so he may have checked this out.
I don't know if he posts here.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 10, 2013 - 09:56pm PT
I talk with Richard back in 2010 when I was going out there again. He gave me some beta.( a project, shhh!) and was aware of the interest then. He sounded the same to me as always though he has moved on to other things than climbing.

Yerian wasn't buying it though, " Leversee is a lifer, he'll be back!"
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 11, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
Clint.... thanks.

RL is a lifer
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
Apr 11, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Ya, send an e mail to Big, but he hasn't posted some of his great shoots, he took.

I have some, just got to get one of those modern scanner things, this thread could be a good excuse.

I think big is real into the spiritual path and massage thing now, and not sand bagging skinny guys with tales of hidden walls.

But, The Sun Also Raises, is a five star outing, if it was in the Valley it would be one of the mega classic, not blowing my own horn, Big just brought me there and it was an amazing gift and great time with the Jim Zeller and Big.

10 minute walk 8 rappels and bam your at the base.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 11, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
What Coz said! Both about Richard's spiritual path and the way he brought me, like he did Scott, in to pick some amazing plums. Maybe Hanuman and the golden pears is a better metaphor.
Those two routes on Balch camp flake, Wide world and The Passionate Life, are two of the coolest wide climbs I've ever done, let alone put up. and he took me right up to meet them!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 11, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
Richard sold all of his gear but he still has his big black book.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
Between Richard's photo overlay and AAJ reports, and Dave's topos, map and beta, all the stuff on Patterson Left is easy to locate and ready to climb (in season).
I suppose there are a couple of missing topos for Under the Knife, Eleven and Millenium Falcon, but people can just climb them and make new topos, no big deal.
So there's no urgent need to "shake down" Richard for more beta. :-)
So many climbs there already with good topos/beta and ready to do.

Of course there are a few things that would be nice to have:
 old or new climbing shots like the ones Scott mentioned (P.S. Ed has offered to help scan slides and I can scan prints, so if you are really in Belmont you should contact me). For new ones, just wait for this summer/fall. :-)
 a few cliff shots taken with a little better camera (tripod and maybe telephoto). Then I could translate Richard's black & white overlay to a big color version. Ditto for the right side. David's ipad/smartphone photos were taken with good lighting, but are too blurry to see fine details on the farther away cliffs.
 more details on Herb Laeger's routes. Kris said in one post that he did about 15 climbs there with Herb. It's not urgent, though, since the poison oak grew back to overhead height, so the climbs are not very accessible now. But it would be good to have this info available in case there is another fire or if there are some better access options.
 a line on the main satellite view showing roughly where the old road goes to the top of Patterson Left
 a line on the main satellite view showing there the 2010 trail goes in from below to Balch Camp Flake
Patterson Bluff - all crags
Patterson Bluff - all crags
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 07:10am PT
Interesting about Big selling his gear. I wouldn't think he could stay away for ever. I still would pay to see that binder.

Clint I agree. Next time I will take a good camera. And there is way more good beta in one spot than ever before. Heating up quick now so I may be waiting until fall to go again unless it cools down. That place just calls to you once you go. So many FAs up there still to do.

For example. There is a smaller bluff below and left of wedding wall. Haven't given it a name but O am sure someone has. Seems like approach is not too bad but its in PO territory. I would think it has to hold a few ink FAs. Anyone?
Credit: DaveyTree
More to dream about at PB
More to dream about at PB
Credit: DaveyTree
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