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DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 28, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
I was up at Patterson Bluff area on 3/16 & 17 with Matt Schutz and Danny Gray. We found 3-4 new established routes on a one pitch bluff, behind the power lines, to the west of Black Rock Road just past the reservoir split. Anyone have any info on these? Post it, email or PM me if know who FA'd them or have beta.

What an amazing area. Been about 5 years since I had been there and I forgot just how amazing it is.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
Davey,

I don't know who did that, but you might want to check with Paul Martzen, scuffy b or Jaybro. I first went there in 1970, and climbed in the area to the east (right) of Patterson creek, on a formation that looks somewhat like an upside-down map of Italy. We thrashed through the brush on the way up, only to find an established trial leading to within 100 feet of the road on the way down.

It's hard for me to forget the Bluffs. I live in Harlan Ranch and take 168 home every day. Most days, the westernmost cliffs are clearly visible, and often I can even see some crack systems, on the way home.

John

P.S. I know that Mark Powell climbed the big flake at the far east end of the east cliff in the 1950's.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Tks for the reply John. That is serious bush wacken going up. I tried once from the far right and after I was in a crawl for a couple hundred yards I turned back. I will prob see Paul this Friday and ask. Those routes looked pretty new and had some tat on a couple. They are all the way around the right side past Patterson Right and the approach to these is like 5 minutes from B.R. Road.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 28, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Ticks!

lol
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 28, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
Bump! Sorry I can't help, but I'd like to know too
Patterson Falls
Patterson Falls
Credit: limpingcrab
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Crab, you take that pic? I was standing where that pic was taken from. The PG&E road gets you pretty close. Just after the last bridge on the gated PG&E road look for a trail cut through the manzanita that goes up from a hairpin turn. Follow it and it will take you to where the pic was taken and further to some covered ladders that will get you down the mountain a bit. We were scouting but you could traverse east to the left side of that pic.

Munge, Never had tick issues, prob too early in the year, but the poison oak was everywhere. Toward the top of the PG&E road or further up Black Rock you get into the pines and it diminishes greatly if not all together.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 28, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
below the cliff right to left ... going toward JCAWWS. Trail most of the way, with PO near the end. I stopped at some point deciding that minimal PO was ok, but massive contamination wasn't going to work. lol
ec

climber
ca
Mar 28, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1046600/Name-this-Central-Sierra-Crag
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 28, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
99% of the people I've gone there with have had poison oak issues. Seemed worth it to me though!
I got some extremely cool FA's there and apparently don't get PO! ....been crossing my fingers for the last 56 years thought!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 28, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
Ya I took the picture while looking around up there, it's currently the background on my computer. Your directions sound just like what I did, but with some old cable assisted 4th class. I'll have to go up there sometime with you and Matt, and I think I might have met Danny Grey at Metalmark this morning?

On the PO note, I have a bit right now and have been putting chalk on it to dry it out every time I climb. Seems to be working better than calamine lotion and all the other crap I have!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
Jaybro, soo many FAs to do up there. We did one on D.U. Dome. Put it on RC.com. I got poison a few times up there but if I stay at pines level it seems to be OK. PM me or post your FAs. I would love to check them out.

Crab, I'm sure you met Danny at the gym. We have a morning crew of great guys and gals at 0500. I will be there tomorrow but missed most of the week so far. Def plan on going back. Rt now looking at going back to P.B. soon. PM me and we can hookup unless I see you at the gym before. I have some lines picked out.

When I have some time I will post more pics, info and topos on RC.com and maybe people will add to it all their FAs and beta.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 12:42am PT
There is a thread here somewhere, but here is some other beta with photos to get you started
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0

http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=478.0;wap2
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 02:47am PT
Jaybro, nice links on your efforts. That roof crack is sick. Haven't tried it but got half way up an FA on the wall behind it to the left. I had been calling that rock wall area Road Gold. I had to down climb because of poor rock. Needs some cleaning of some exfoliation curtains. Have you been up to that pinacle on the wall behind the roof. Think I would call it Gold Member if I was able to climb it. Looks 2 pitches.

Anything on the routes just past BR Reservoir turn to the west by power lines? Very featured stuff.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 29, 2013 - 02:48am PT
Wow, a fair bit of activity up there. Are some trails being developed to some of the cliffs? The ones I cut are long grown over.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 02:54am PT
Hi Paul. Going to gym in the morn. Hope to see you there.

I was up there a week and a half ago and didn't see any trail but I didn't know one had been cut in.

Jaybro, can you post wherre the trail starts? Might get more traffic on it to keep it clear.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 09:12am PT
I haven't been there since 2010 there was a cairn at the start of the trail. It's past the sign that says 2,000' and before the one that says 3000'. Paul m and Her Laeger will be your best reference for this area, but Scott Cosgrove (Coz here on the Taco) as well as Richard Leversee have done a bunch of stuff in the greater area.

Road Gold sounds perfect for that area, I always wanted to do some of those cracks there but was mostly drawn to Patterson Flake.
I might get out there this Fall. I have a 'hot climber chick' friend who has expressed I terest in wide world of sport and the Passionate life, & I've got some potential lines and unfinished projects there as well. At OR '12 Cedar Wright expressed an interest in the area as well, he has family in the area and, I think, has seen it from the road as well.
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Mar 29, 2013 - 09:13am PT
there is a spooky motel at balch camp,

looks like something right out of a hitchock movie,
but there is a coke machine, gets hot up there,
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 10:53am PT
You mean the man camp building?

Last time I was there I asked a resident where the water faucet was and he gave me a case of bottled water! He said the same thing about the thirstiness potential!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:06am PT
Herb Laeger and I did a good number of routes there in the 1980s and early 90s after a fire cleared the PO from the approach. We had a pretty good trail going for a while but it grew over. There was a school teacher in Balch who let us bivy in the classrooms there. I hit a cow with a porsche one rainy night driving in around Pine Flat Reservoir. Bob Yoho was on that trip too, but not in the car with me.

Along with Julie Lazar we did some nice multi pitch face climbs up water streaks on what we called the "Wedding Wall." I recall naming one such line "In Slickness and in Stealth." We also did some good crack climbs with Tom Marshall (Seneca Rocks "Marshall's Madness..") Tom named the routes Digital Exam (nice 5.11 tips) and Rectum and Eject 'Em... (wide)

Patterson Bluff / Wedding Wall
Patterson Bluff / Wedding Wall
Credit: Ksolem

Wedding Wall is circled. The climbs are bizarre being low angle but at the same time quite hard. Later Herb and I think Leversee and some others, maybe Brandon Thau, set up a rap route in from the top and did some long routes on the western wall there. By then I was hooked on the Gorge of Despair and never went back to Patterson. Cool place... saw a condor there once.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
I got some information about Patterson Bluffs from Paul Martzen some years ago with Topos and posted it here on my blog, Check it out.....scroll down a bit.
http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
That's funny Ksolem, Leversee and I hung out at a/ the school teacher's house
Too. We sat in the living room while their kid practiced their violin lesson. Kind of a unique situation.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
As I recall, he guys name was John? Can't think of his last name. Herb would know. Something like Scow?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
What about that bear hugging Hilda, or whatever it is route, Coz?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 29, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
Kris and Jay, it wasn't the home of John and Shirley Collins, was it?

John
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
Loving all the posts. Good info. Hopefully it will raise some interest. Have to look for that soda machine on the way out next time.

Jaybro, hit me up next time you go back to the flake. I would love to go if I am free. Prob just be a belayer on stuff in the 12s but can yard up any rope...haha.

Ksolem, Wedding Wall definitely drew our attention as well soo many other spots up there but because of time restraints and and the PO we decided on DU Dome. Put up No Oakey .10b (posted on RC.com). How did your approach start, up or down?

Can't wait to go back. Prob have another 3-4 weeks before it gets hot.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
Kris and Jay, it wasn't the home of John and Shirley Collins, was it?

That doesn't sound right. I'll ask Herb.

Davey we went up from the bottom, walked up the dirt road and then up the hill. But like I said here was a fire which cleared the PO...
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
The school teacher was John, quite a character. He used to bicycle from his house up to the top of the penstock road and back, after school. We climbed some gulleys from there up to the top of the bluff one time, but I never did any routes from there. While you guys were really hitting that wall I was slacking off and mostly kayaking. Now the kayaking seems to be mostly done and I am climbing a lot again. Pretty stoked to be feeling good on rock.

John and Coco Scow first met Mike Borrelli and I as we descended from climbing Crescent Crack at Antenna Rock; the obvious rock with an antenna, above the road on a sharp corner directly above Balch Camp. I and my family stayed with the Scows a lot. Many climbers and kayakers and canyoneers also benefited from their generosity. They live in Fresno now and the school sits pretty much abandoned.

The daughter, whom you heard practicing, Eva Scow, has become an accomplished musician specializing in mandolin, playing with the likes of David Grisman, Allison Krause, Attwater, Mike Marshall.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2XoIFmBMww4
http://www.evascowmusic.com/?page_id=2

Thought you might enjoy this side note.
ec

climber
ca
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
We named every pitch on the climb for some reason - coz

LOL, that's an M.O. of Leversee. I sorta picked up on that from him.

 ec
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
...playing with the likes of David Grisman, Allison Krause, Attwater, Mike Marshall.

That is so beautiful! Thanks.

Paul, did we meet once at the bridge over the North Fork there once around 1992? I stopped and chatted with some paddlers there, and there is this vague memory bubbling to the surface of meeting someone with your name. I'd have been driving a robins egg blue sports car...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 29, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
What a cool thread this has turned into! I'll heads you up for sure next time davey Tree. I'm in Moab now and it won't be till the fall though.

'"John" the sounds right, I think I remember the penstock bicycling story.

Again cool hat this thread took off other ones I started on this have been kind of limp sauce....
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 29, 2013 - 04:54pm PT
That is quite possible Kris. I would have been up there a lot at that time and if somebody was kayaking the NF that year, pretty good odds it was me. I would not remember the color of your car though.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
I would not remember the color of your car though.

Fair enough, I don't remember the color of your boat either..:-)

Laeger and I did several good one pitch routes left of that Wedding Wall too. We got into a Buckminster Fuller theme for names, I think we called one the Dimaxicon and another the Horrendicon. That one was fairly hard. I recall going up first, and at what I thought was a nice stance at a reasonable height I started to get set up to place a bolt. Herb yelled up at me "What are you doing!?" I thought it was fairly obvious. Then I hear "You have to go up higher, we have reputations to uphold!!" I thought that was a pretty funny remark to make considering that this climb would never, in all likelihood see another ascent. I mean who the heck is going to do that approach to do single pitch routes? I came down and let Herb go up. He went waaay up...
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 08:27pm PT
Man, this place has been so quite unless you are in the know and even then all the routes, stories and history has been mostly unreported. Keep it coming. Let's hear some more stories. Love it. Other than good scenary and climbing, the ones I have is getting PO and flat backing it on a slab while goofing around by the creek while a bit intoxicated. Maybe next weekend will bring more stories.
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 29, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
you rap in from the top. 10 min to the top from the car.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Scott, that's what I hear but haven't tried top down yet. I have been told there are several rap routes on both sides of the main bluff. Anyone have good directions to the starts? I prob won't make the top until fall. Snow blocking road to top rt now and when it melts I will be jumping on other projects up 168.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Sounds like The Sun also Rises should be on my bucket list. Need to get in good shape for something like that though. Every time I get up there my mind goes wild with all the possibilities. Good to know what already done. Cuts down on the scouting for new lines.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
The link Rene' (Radish) posted above has some info about the rap route and a topo for The Sun Also Rises
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
It's been 15 years but as far as the wall goes L-R

The sun also rises IV 5,12
Raptors of the steep V 5.10 A2
Nettle/ Ferman IV 5.11
Under the knife IV 5.12b
50 lbs of crack IV 5.12
Ten IV 5.10
Face that launched a thousand clips IV 5.12
Mellenium falcon IV 5.11 AO

thats all I can remember

I hope more has been done
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
Leversee is the man to talk to. He painted small paint dots on the trees on the top to get you to the start of the raps. One time however we didnt make it to the top and had to do some nasty sh#t and a few pitches to get back to the top. found some old pins along the way.
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Mar 29, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
Limping Crab: That photo looks like paradise. Thanks for the inspiration!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 30, 2013 - 12:27am PT
Thanks, the big part of the cliff is behind me in that picture too. It's a cool place!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Mar 30, 2013 - 12:32am PT
I think Richard Leversee drew this up.............
I think Richard Leversee drew this up.............
Credit: Radish
It would be nice to see a pic from hwy 168 in Clovis. Its just such a massive cliff. I could see it for years from Goshen when the air wasn't too bad.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
Mar 30, 2013 - 01:41am PT
Great thread!


-JR
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 30, 2013 - 03:23am PT
Resurgence of the hidden!

I'm game for a trip in Autumn/Winter.

I think I remember where the trail to WWOS is, if someone would be kind enough to finish the last few hundred yards off.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 30, 2013 - 06:07am PT
I moved the route list / online guide to the top of a separate thread, so I can continue to edit it after the usual 10 day limit:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 30, 2013 - 08:44am PT
Nice work Clint!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Martzen said it was revolted and should be safe...although it is 10 pitches and .12b.....that's beyond me rt now.[photo
Sunset Buttress 'The Sun also Rises' .12b @ 10 pitches
Sunset Buttress 'The Sun also Rises' .12b @ 10 pitches
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Yah, I have the Topo just need bigger muscles and balls for 10 pitches at .12b
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
Tks Clint. That is awesome list. I was told 'Ten' on the left main wall was renamed and the Topo I have shows 14p and 11 raps.

D.U. Dome has 'No Oakey' 2p at .10b. FA: Danny Gray, Matt Schutz, David Fries 3/17/13. Starts to the left of pillar/book in the middle. Rap off bumper or bush to top anchors. 2raps or one long 200'. Martzen and ? did a route, 3 bolts on the far left of D.U. called Safe to Dance.

In the gorge below D.U. is The Big Shwaa .10b or d crack. Others.also there. Rap down into gorge or TR. 1p
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
Clint, here is a few more from old emails from Martzen. Paul did most/all these I am listing unless noted and most with Mike Borrelli, Dwight Kroll and Jorge Menchu.

Paul, update if I get any of this wrong.

To the right of Balch Flake is the three pillars with the right being the tallest. On the left side of the left pillar is a gully that goes up the back to the top of the tallest pillar with a few moves of 5.6/.7. At top traverse out left to a black dyke and up three pitches to top of Patterson Rt. This is the easiest way to the top, 'Pablo's Cruise' 5.7/8

There is a 2-3 rope length rap from the reflectors to the top of the left pillar. The rap starts with nuts under a block with the others being anchors but should be suspect and possibly replaced.

Leversee also established a rap route from the top to the top of Balch Flake.

Crack separating the left and middle pillar is 'Sex and Drugs' 5.9. On the face of the middle pillar is a 'S' shaped crack 'Oroborous' which starts as a seem(aid) and opens to .10c fingers as it passes left of obvious roof. Above roof .9 hands to ledge then lieback to next ledge and summit. Gully separating the middle and left(tallest) pillar is 'Storm Drain' 5.8 with a brushy tree to dig through at top.

Tallest pillar has 2 left facing books on the lower half. Only the rt one was climbed at .10c/d and either slung and rapped or traversed rt and up to summit.

Further rt of the pillars is a blobbish slab with 3 cracks. Left most crack is Crescent Crack that Mike Borrelli got half way up before a loose rock cut his rope. The center crack leans left with hands and fist .10b 'Scary Monster'.

Above Pablo's Cruise were often TRd from the top. The rock worn into person size scallops which could be friction mantle from one to the next. Paul said it was "very unnerving".

Balch Flake has two cracks making two outside and two inside. There is a satalite crack that goes 1/3 the way up to joining the left crack(inside or out?). Inside 'Dracula Crack' .9 hands/fists wasdone in 81' by Dwight Kroll and Ryan ?. Paul said he adied the outside crack(which?) the would free at .12/13 and is slight overhanging that starts with tips but widens to thin hands.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2013 - 10:31pm PT
Found a few more emails from Martzen.

Hiking up the creek toward the waterfall will give you accessto the big apron to the rt side of the falls (left side of Patterson Rt). There is an obvious pillar that looks like an upside down leg and boot. There is a 2-3p crack up the middle of the pillar. Another 3 pitches up slab to summit but no anchors to his recollection. Possible FA Mark Haymond or Ben Dewell.

There are some black intrusions that arch up and rt of the apron. Martzen climbed the middle one and placed one bolt to pass a head wall and used small cracks for pro to summit. He said it could use some bolts.

The right side of Balch Camp Flake was originally climbed in the 50's by George Sessions, Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood and another(Paul could not recall). They climbed the rt edge (I think called Original Route). Overhang into less than verticle to a blank section to a horn. Bolted.

Calderwood told Paul a story of one of the crew setting fire to the area to make the approach of the flake easier from the road. It worked but the day after hiking in through the ash, they all got the worst case of poison oak any of them had ever had. Hahahaha...that PO is brutal tuff stuff.

Once again. If any of you FA'ers notice any thing that is not accurate, let us know. You all deserve props for some amazingly bold and daring climbing. You set the standard!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 06:25am PT
Here is a pic from the left side of Patterson Rt. You can see the upside leg/boot
Which is that left facing book.
View of PB Rt from the left
View of PB Rt from the left
Credit: DaveyTree

Sorry for the sideways photos. From my phone.
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Mar 31, 2013 - 11:36am PT
Hey Paul do you have any pictures of "the big schwa"? That's about as good as a crack can get.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Mike Archiaga posted this one on RC.com.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Trad/The_Big_Shwaaa_119003.html

Could pull it with my phone. That gorge really looks good though
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Mar 31, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Thanks Davey
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 31, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
What's the story on that crack, Mike?
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
Sent Mike a pm on rc. He should give us beta when he gets it for the gorge.

Here are a couple pics.
L-R: Balch Flake, Three Pillars & (The Blob?)
L-R: Balch Flake, Three Pillars & (The Blob?)
Credit: DaveyTree

Three Pillars
Three Pillars
Credit: DaveyTree

These are older photos and possibly less brushy from the fire. Google earth shows Three Pillars and The Blob to be more brushy now.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 1, 2013 - 04:02am PT
The Big Schwaaa is .11d thin hands. The wall is slightly concave, so it is just less than vertical at the bottom, vertical in the middle and overhanging in the top third. Jorge Menchu climbed it first. We mostly top roped it, but I think Larry Zulim and Mike Latendresse both lead it at different times. The photo on RC.com reminds me of a slide I shot, but can't find, when the water was pretty high in the gorge. Awesome and nerve rattling to be hanging on the rope with the water thundering below. From the base of Down Under Dome, proceed straight to the river across a relatively flat bench of pine trees. Besides the Big Schwaaa, there is a really thin crack, which I think Zulim worked on a bit, and a wide corner crack that we did not mess with. Might be easy or it might be of interest to Jaybro!

That last B&W photo of the three pillars really shows off the beautiful Oroborus Crack, the S crack on the middle pillar. Starts off as a seam, too thin for me to make any progress on. It gradually opens to tips and by the time it gets to a roof and heads left it is about 5.10c. Above it is lovely 5.9 hands. I intended and still intend to sport bolt the start so you can either aid the start till you want to go free or work it as much as you want without decking. I think the start might possibly go free, but the difficulty should drop into the 5.12 then 5.11 range within 10 or 15 feet.

To the left is left leaning hand and fist crack, Scary Monsters 5.10b, it looks a lot easier from the ground for some reason. Myself and Mike Borrelli in 1981, I think.

The easiest route out is to scramble up the left side of the three pillars with a few moves of technical climbing. From the top of the highest pillar traverse left and up the black dike. Really fun and easy climbing. I forget what the pro is. Probably bolts that should be replaced.

To the right of the S crack is a 5.8 gulley, Storm Drain. Next right are two left facing books. Whichever one I did was hard 5.10, i think. Pretty sure I put rap bolts at the top. (Actually, not so sure. Might have slung a block.)

There is a smaller round blob slab to the right. Mike Borrelli led up this half way till a block pulled loose and mostly chopped his rope. Mike stayed on thankfully and was able to clip to gear and pull up intact rope. Now that the route is cleaner somebody should get a nice and hard lead.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 08:29am PT
Davey and Paul,

Thanks for all the corrections/additions and photos.
I updated the route list on the previous page,
and included photos / photo overlays.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2101621&msg=2103113#msg2103113
There are probably still many mistakes - please let me know and I'll edit.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 11:19am PT
Nice Clint! List is looking good. Great to see everyone pitching in their info.

Here is a pic of Road Gold which is on the north side of the road well before you drive under the water pipes. The Cliff Band is 'L' shaped. 'Pay at the Pump' is 50 yards up from the road by the closest side of the right side of the 'L'. This pic is of the left side.
Left side of Road Gold
Left side of Road Gold
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 11:54am PT
And here is the pic of the left side of RG.
Right side of Road Gold
Right side of Road Gold
Credit: DaveyTree
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Very nice synopsis, Clint. Thanks for your efforts.

I don't have my topos close at hand, so will have to make further corrections when I find that collecction. However, I can make a few corrections off the top of my head.

Antenna Rock is a small bluff directly above the road that has or had a normal TV receiver antenna on it with some ladders leading up to the antenna. It is on an obvious turn, directly above Balch Camp. It supplied TV reception for Balch Camp. With satellite TV and such now, the antenna may no longer be there. I did not think about the confusion between this antenna and the big microwave reflectors on top of Patterson Right. The slab labeled Antenna Rock to the right of the 3 pillars is the Blob, or whatever we called it. There is a dramatic Crescent Crack on that face, that Borrelli attempted and chopped his rope.

Looking at the photos, I realize I am a bit confused about Sex & Drugs, and Scary Monsters, at the 3 Pillars area. I only see one crack for two routes. I will have to find my topos to clarify this.

John Elazerian may have the FA on the upside down leg (On Patterson Right Apron). I think Haymond said he had not been up on this. Ben Dewell and partner were active in the 70's and did some interesting things, such as the actual FA of The Becky Route at Chimney Rock Spire, but I don't recall if he said they did climb at Patterson or not. I removed rappel pro and slings from a previous party the first time I went up it, so I know I was not the first. Not sure if the gear was at the apex or a bit below. There is a 5.9 variation down low, and lots of possible climbs on either side. Bob Simmons and I continued up the slabs in around 1984, but oddly without a bolt kit. Easy climbing fortunately, but I recall one belay on a bit of a ledge and a single hook placement. About 2 pitches up, there was an easy traverse off to the right.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
In the Road Gold area is a huge wide roof above a slab. Borrelli and I climbed the traverse under the roof for about 2 pitches,I think. We named it, One Way or Another. Silly, but a fun diversion. Mostly easy climbing on the slab with pro under the roof, but some pretty stiff underclings in spots.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
morning all, i did not post that pix, the only thing i posted was me doing a boulder problem at the campgounds by the lake, amy and i did go check it out in the spring of 2011, saw no one the 3 days we were there, followed the green tape to the balch camp flake, holy cow that was a goat trail, op ever where :-), but we had tek new and showers to wash off after hiking, super beautuful place, and next time i go, i am going to rap from the top at ross arossing road, and camp on top of the bluffs.happy climbing mike a.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Apr 1, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
that's the one Mike. yeah, above would be less poak
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 1, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
I wonder what the state of that trail is now? Bold goats only, I bet!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Wow -- I knew many people were climbing new routes up there, but I had no idea how many or how much people have done. Thanks for all the info, and particularly to Davey for starting this thread.

If I get the chance, and if the weather cooperates, I'll take and post a picture from Highway 168, in response to a request upthread.

John
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 1, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
I just noticed that the photographer of the Big Schwaaa photo is Jorge (Tuckess) Menchu, who did the FA on top rope. That means the climber in the photo is Mike Latendresse with Patty McCartney belaying. Jorge's comment at RC.com confirms that Mike lead the route first. Jorge, Borrelli and I found it and they fell in love with it. I could never get up it without several hangs, so I was less enthusiastic. I hate thin hands! Why do these small people like them so much????

Super cool that so many people are chiming in with routes and history.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Clint, change the Schwaa photo with this one to correct my error.
The Big Schwaa
The Big Schwaa
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
Mike A., Sorry for the confusion.

John, I tried to have my wife take some pics from 168 while I was driving on Sunday. 31 pics and not one got the bluff.....hahaha

Paul, the 2p roof traverse you mentioned, I believe it is just up the road from Road Gold about 1/4 mile if I am thinking of the same spot. We looked at it for a bit and only saw a couple possible lfree lines. Never thought of a traverse. Very cool. This is a pic off Google earth I found. Is this it?

Credit: DaveyTree
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Apr 1, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Cool area. I want to go back.

Pay at the Pump. Jaybro photo.
Pay at the Pump. Jaybro photo.
Credit: Elcapinyoazz
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
Thanks for all the corrections/additions & photos - I just did a second update:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2101621&msg=2103113#msg2103113
As before, there are probably still many mistakes - please let me know and I'll edit.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Nice catch Clint. You are correct. Changes made.

Really loving this thread and everyone pitching in. Hope to have another FA this Fri or Sat. While I am up there, are there any photos you guys want me to take if I have time?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 1, 2013 - 09:46pm PT
Thanks, Davey - I linked to your photo with the corrected caption.
I also added one by guyman which is a closeup of Balch Camp Flake.

Photo requests?
 color version of Three Pillars (and one including both Three Pillars and The Blob)
 if possible (may be hard to get): photos from further away, which show the locations of Road Gold, slab above Road Gold, and Antenna Rock, relative to the road. Maybe from 168, as Rene has requested.
If there are no convenient roads with the right perspective, don't go on some crazy poison oak bushwhack. We can probably use the satellite view from google maps to show the crag locations relative to the road.
 larger/more detailed versions of these shots by Kris Solem (or maybe Kris has higher res versions which he can send to me?):
Patterson Bluffs
Patterson Bluffs
Credit: Ksolem
(Wedding Wall)

Patterson Bluffs
Patterson Bluffs
Credit: Ksolem
(this one shows Patterson Falls Apron more directly, and the diagonal black intrusions to the right of Patterson Falls Apron)

 larger/more detailed color version of Patterson Left, with good lighting
I think Richard Leversee drew this up.............
I think Richard Leversee drew this up.............
Credit: Radish
(taken from same place as this one, with same afternoon lighting, but color/detailed and not cropped so closedly)
The first photo which NoRushNoMore posted is detailed and not too closely cropped on the right, but has too much shadow (taken too early in the day):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1046600&msg=1046993#msg1046993
Credit: mike a.
This photo which Mike A. posted has the perfect location, cropping and lighting - I just need a higher resolution version.

It might rain this weekend, though. So the lighting may not be good, etc.
No rush; get them when the conditions are good.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 12:35am PT
I will see what I can come up with on the way in and out for pics. Weather shows 77 sunny for Fri rt now.

Clint, left out left side of Road Gold. I will try to take another pic because its wider than it shows.

Also the pic that show the flake, pillars and blob might be the best we are going to get because it shows really overgrown on Google earth.

The color one with the color coded route diagrams you have the blob(if that's what we are calling it) as antenna rock.

Can't wait for Fri
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 2, 2013 - 01:37am PT
Thanks Davey - I added your Road Gold Right Side photo, and fixed the Blob label on the overlay.

I have lots of satellite photo screen shots now, and think I know where everything is.
roadside crags below Patterson Bluff - <br/>
Road Gold, slab above Road Go...
roadside crags below Patterson Bluff -
Road Gold, slab above Road Gold, Antenna Rock
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
Do I have these right?

So I reordered the routes a bit:
 crags below the main Bluffs first (close to town)
 main Bluffs, left to right
 upper crags, as they are reached on the road

Patterson Bluff - all crags
Patterson Bluff - all crags
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
Here's the main satellite overlay.
Hopefully I have Down Under Dome, The Gorge, and One Pitch Bluff located correctly.

I've added more overlays with regular and satellite photos:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2101621&msg=2103113#msg2103113
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Apr 2, 2013 - 10:30am PT
For the past couple years I've been working on getting the Forest Service to whack a trail in for us. I have a contact and good friend high up in the Forest Service. He said that it would have to get public approval and an environmental study would have to be done. I was also going to start collecting topos and put together a guide book so that there would be more foot traffic to keep the newly whacked trails (when/if they do clear them) maintained.

However, I've been busy with school. So I shelved the project for now.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 10:36am PT
Those are sweet Clint. Tks for your work. The bluff overview is correct.

Road Gold rt and left are connected walls and shape an 'L'. They are both located where you have Slab above road gold. The long traverse Paul did I believe is on the long band of rock just n/w of what you show antenna rock to be. Where you show road gold is several tiers with a trickling waterfall at the bottom one. Don't know if anything has been done there but I will take pics on Fri. Ihave no idea where antenna rock is but will keep an eye out. Maybe Paul or someone in the know can give us beta
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 2, 2013 - 10:40am PT
I shelved the project for now.

Good! No offense, but I think it's a bad idea to get the USFS involved in making climbers trails. The lack of a good trail is one of the barriers that has kept Patterson off the radar for so long. Many climbers cherish remote crags like Patterson Bluff just because of the challenge and to get away from the mainstream climbing circus...and those kinds of places are becoming very rare these days.
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Apr 2, 2013 - 10:52am PT
Our crags aren't much of a circus anyways. ;)
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Apr 2, 2013 - 10:54am PT
You have a point!

Good thing it's a long drive from here....or that crag would be grid bolted!
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 01:58pm PT
There are so many untapped crags it is crazy.....but you have to explore. I for one would love a trail from the right side all the way along the base of Patterson Rt because I HATE PO!

My last experience was cleaning a route on Million Dollar Mile from a cave up the entering wall. My budy and I (for some stupid reason) did not realize the vines we were pulling were dormant PO. We both looked like the Elephant Man. I had it from my ears to my toes and EVERYWHERE in between. I had to take off work for 3 weeks. Hate that stuff.

I am hoping this post will not only raise interest to create such trails but bring to light the real hardcore guys who pioneered this area. I get the honor of seeing Martzen and Haymond almost weekly at the gym and hearing their stories. It would be nice for them all to be memorialized here, a guide book or some place so nothing gets forgotten about such an amazing place. A group effort presentation and slide show would be so cool(just an idea).

If anyone knows some of the FAs personally that have not been notified about this gathering of beta, shoot them an email or call so they can pitch in and get the props and respect they deserve.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 2, 2013 - 02:54pm PT
Good thing it's a long drive from here....or that crag would be grid bolted!

One of the ironies of its location is that even though Patterson Bluff Left is visible on my way home, and very near as the crow flies, it takes me almost as long to drive to the base (and longer to get to the base of most climbs) than it does to get to the Valley! Much as I detest dodging poison oak, I realize that remoteness protects solitude. Patterson Bluff is one of the few large climbing areas in California, of which I am aware, where climbing feels the way it did in Yosemite 45 years ago.

Long live adventure!

John
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 2, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Even if there is a trail I think the drive around Pine Flat will weed out the weak. It's the only place I've made myself car sick (borrowing my dad's old Porche might have contributed). I just hate PO with a passion!

David, Saturday looks much nicer that Friday, just sayin ;-)
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 04:50pm PT
Dan, you made me laugh out loud making yourself car sick...hahaha. If my plans change for Sat I will let you know for sure.

I am still confused as to the location of the 'Back Wall'. Is it left of the main bluff? Anyone?

Clint, The rap from the reflectors I believe is to the top of the tallest of three pillars not the left one. I could be wrong but that's how I read the email Paul sent. Paul?

And, Pablo's Cruise continues up and left following that obvious line/gully/crack/dyke thing from the top of the 3rd tallest pillar. It doesn't go up face. Tks again for combining all of this. I would have just printed out what people were writing and thrown it in my big binder. This is much cleaner.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
Found these on widefetish posted by Jaybro in March 2010.

BC Flake by Jaybro
BC Flake by Jaybro
Credit: DaveyTree
Wide World by Jaybro
Wide World by Jaybro
Credit: DaveyTree
Behind Wide World by Jaybro
Behind Wide World by Jaybro
Credit: DaveyTree
Passionate Life w 12a variation by Jaybro
Passionate Life w 12a variation by Jaybro
Credit: DaveyTree
Behind Passionate Life by Jaybro
Behind Passionate Life by Jaybro
Credit: DaveyTree
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 2, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
Some burly cracks.
Some burly cracks.
Credit: guyman

East end Patterson Bluff
East end Patterson Bluff
Credit: guyman

More photos are always better.

It is a long drive around the reservour.... the wife and two kids wanted to kill me for taking a little detour.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 2, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Thanks, Guy - very nice. I used your first photo for an overlay already.

Davey,
Thanks for the corrections on the Road Gold locations - I'll fix it tonight.

I am still confused as to the location of the 'Back Wall'. Is it left of the main bluff? Anyone?
It's just left of "Patterson Left", just left of The Sun Also Rises.
It's labelled on Dick Leversee's black&white overlay.
I'll label it on the satellite view overlay tonight.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 2, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Clint.... thank you for putting in the legwork.

There is more up canyon .... I'll try to dig up some photos I took of a formation that looked like more than one pitch....

Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 3, 2013 - 12:47am PT
I have not found my topos and notes yet, but I am looking through some slides and found a couple of Mr. Big on a 3 or 4 pitch route we did to the left of Sunset Buttress. I will post them when I get them scanned.

Looking at the photos, I am thinking that Scary Monsters is the left leaning center crack on the Blob. Crescent Crack is the left crack on The Blob, as Clint deduced.
Balch Camp Flake, Three Pillars & The Blob, at Patterson Bluffs Right....
Balch Camp Flake, Three Pillars & The Blob, at Patterson Bluffs Right. The left leaning center crack on The Blob is, I think, Scary Monsters, 5.10b. The arching crack on the left side of the Blob is the unfinished Crescent Crack.
Credit: Paul Martzen

Safety Dance, on Down Under Dome was about a 10b slab with 3 bolts in about 70 feet. (from vague memory) Myself and Bob Simmons. There are other easy routes on Down Under Dome, but I can't remember much.

The FL of Big Schwaaa was Mike Latendresse. Will probably have to come up with a more specific name for that gorge, as there are several spectacular gorges in the immediate vicinity. Maybe just Big Schwaaa Gorge?

Antenna Rock is correctly located, near Road Gold where the road turns from the Dinkey drainage to the NFork Kings drainage.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 12:57am PT
Thanks, Paul.
I'll make an overlay using your nice photo and that should confirm if I understand where things are.

It sounds like my current overlay has a red line where Scary Monsters is (center crack leaning left),
and Crescent Crack on the left arches to the right.
2 l l

Sport climber
Rancho Verga, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 03:44am PT
Bluff: "presenting a bold and nearly perpendicular front".
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 06:22am PT
The overlays are corrected now, and another update is in place:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2101621&msg=2103113#msg2103113
Should be pretty good now!
Here's the overlay from Paul's photo above:
Patterson Bluff Right - <br/>
Balch Camp Flake, Three Pillars, Blob
Patterson Bluff Right -
Balch Camp Flake, Three Pillars, Blob
Credit: Paul Martzen Photography / Clint Cummins
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 3, 2013 - 10:05am PT
Hole encyopedic reservoir of useful information, Batman!
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Morning All, heres some pix of Patterson back in the spring of 2011 when amy and i went to this beautiful place.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Credit: mike a.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Credit: mike a.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Credit: mike a.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Credit: mike a.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Credit: mike a.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Clint, list is looking really good. Tks for all the work.

The topos for a lot of Patterson Left are posted on line. Do we want to include those? I have copies that I can post up when I get a chance if wanted. Anyone?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
Yes please, this is a great consolidation. I only have low res versions from Rene's blog
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
Mike... nice shots! Is the last one Black Rock Res.?
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
yes it is, when we were there, we spend a night there at the campgrounds at the lake, not a person in sight the whole time we were there, my kind of place :-), next time i go back, for sure going to rap in from the top, off ross crossing road.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 3, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
Photos are good. These show an enjoyable climb just to the left of Sunset Buttress. On one of our earliest explorations we hiked down the big gulley between The Back Wall and the main bluff to look at the base of Sunset Buttress. We may have gotten a pitch or so up or maybe we just flailed. It became clear it would not be an afternoon romp, so we bailed and climbed back out up this moderate crack system in a spectacular location.
Mr. Big &#40;Richard Leversee&#41; at Patterson Bluffs, on a 3 or 4 pi...
Mr. Big (Richard Leversee) at Patterson Bluffs, on a 3 or 4 pitch escape route immediately to the left of Sunset Buttress. Sunset Buttress is behind him.
Credit: Paul Martzen

Mr. Big leading on a route immediately to the left of Sunset Buttress ...
Mr. Big leading on a route immediately to the left of Sunset Buttress at Patterson Bluffs. 1985
Credit: Paul Martzen
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Sweet pics Paul. Those are classic. Did you guys name the escape crack route?

Mike, Nice pics. I am sure you saw Black Rock Dome on the west ridge. Looks like a steep long approach. No roads close on the back side either but would be easier than going up.

Crab, I will post the topos when I het a chance unless someone beats me to it.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 3, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
Mike Arechiga on a fun boulder problem at the campgrounds.
Mike Arechiga on a fun boulder problem at the campgrounds.
Credit: mike a.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
COZ... 99.9999999999% of the new breed can't handle discomfort.
Otherwise gyms would have PO gardens growing in them.
TICKS in the carpet
Infrared lights.... or ice makers.... or dripping cellings
Be located on top of skyscrapers... with stairway access only
Have big wind generators Blowing most of the time...

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Guy, I have poison oak on my arm and ankle and a big red blob on my waist from a tick bite at this moment. Does that mean I'm part of the 0.0000000001% of the new breed!?!!??

I hope so because that would make me feel special. It would also explain why I've been climbing with 60 year olds and not many people my age want to join


Edit: I'm glad you don't run the fresno gym
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Crab... you put up a FA... out in the brush!

you qualify.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 05:13pm PT
Sweet, I'll put it on my CV

falls and right side
falls and right side
Credit: limpingcrab
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Crab... so how hard is it to get to the right side of that photo??????

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
I made a minor update - added all the topos (that I have seen) as links, and added Mike A's photo of Patterson Left:
I also moved the route list / online guide to the top of a new separate thread, so I can continue to edit it after the usual 10 day limit:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
It looked annoying. Getting up to the base of the fall wasn't too bad along the creek, but I didn't try to traverse along the base of the cliff. The picture I posted on the first page shows it a little bit.

I have only hiked around on my own and haven't climbed there yet so I'm sure others on this thread know more than I do about the approach to "the upside down boot"

I've been eating poison oak to try to get immune, if that works I'll be all over patterson bluff this season! (or in the hospital, TBD)
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:03pm PT
I've been eating poison oak to try to get immune, if that works

Usually repeated exposures, including eating it, will just yield worse immune reactions the next time. Eventually you get very bad swelling and need to get steriods to reduce it. Eating it may get you some exposure on the anus when it ejects....

Urushiol is a toxin (and irritant) which binds to your skin. Your skin forms the blisters to push the contaminated skin away from the tender layers underneath. Only way to stop the blisters is to dissolve the urushiol with Technu or soap/water, within the first few hours of exposure.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
Sorry, thread drift...

Correct on all accounts, which is why I haven't had the courage to try it since I first heard of people eating it years ago. I've learned everything there is to learn about PO and am pretty much just desperate.

There are studies on allergies where gradually increasing exposure to allergens in tiny amounts over time trains the immune system to "get used to it" (i.e. allergy shots). I'm basically trying to mimic those studies to see if it helps. Some claim it has helped them, some claim it hasn't, but there are only anecdotal references and no peer reviewed studies on eating the stuff so I'm giving it a shot by making pill capsules with tiny bits of PO leaves.

It's probably just as dumb as it sounds, but three weeks in (and three leaves later) and at least it hasn't hurt? If it works I'll let the taco know, if it doesn't and I die you'll never hear from me again.


Back on topic-

Clint: thanks again for the work on organizing all this info into that new thread!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
Cool - glad to hear you are well informed about poison oak!
I hope you find something that helps.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
I was one of those who needed steroids. Had like 5 different shots and all kinds of meds. When I showed the doctor how bad it was he actually backed out of the room....hahaha. Crab, I hope you live long enough for us to climb.

I did have a phone number which I have now lost, stupid phone dump, that was from an ad which said it was a holistic cure. It was a three week program which was supposed to make you immune. It advised it was to be taken during the off season during the winter months. If I can find it I will post it up.

Ckint, thanks for the new thread. I didn't know about the 10 day thing.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
Let's see how these came out
Credit: DaveyTree
[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo[photo
Credit: DaveyTree
id=297191]id=297190]id=297188]id=297187]id=297186]id=297185]
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Credit: DaveyTree
Credit: DaveyTree

That's all the topos I have folks. Thought I had a few more. Someone has to have the others.....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 3, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
Davey - very nice!
Here are rotated / slightly cleaned up versions which I'll link to the route list:
Patterson Bluff - 50 lbs of Crack topo &#40;1 of 2&#41;
Patterson Bluff - 50 lbs of Crack topo (1 of 2)
Credit: Ron Felton / DaveyTree
Patterson Bluff - 50 lbs of Crack topo &#40;2 of 2&#41;
Patterson Bluff - 50 lbs of Crack topo (2 of 2)
Credit: Ron Felton / DaveyTree
Patterson Bluff - Some Assembly Required topo
Patterson Bluff - Some Assembly Required topo
Credit: Dave Nettle / DaveyTree
Patterson Bluff - Ten topo <br/>
Also, partial topo for The Face That Laun...
Patterson Bluff - Ten topo
Also, partial topo for The Face That Launched 1000 Clips
Credit: Richard Leversee / DaveyTree
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
Tks Clint, My phone keeps posting sideways.
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
Hey Crab,

pretty sure you can't develop immunity to poison oak while you already have a reaction. It has to be in the off season long after your last reaction.

Hiking up to the base of Patterson Falls is a good adventure in itself. It is mostly on clean slabs, but there is probably some vegetation to deal with. Been a long time for me, so I can't remember exactly. From near the base of the falls, some serious bushwacking is unavoidable, but it is a fairly short distance till you can reach rocks or slabs and then find short clearings separating shorter sections of bushwacking. Once you are near the apron, the hiking along the base was fairly easy. A small team with pruning shears and saws could make a reasonably clear trail in a few hours. One hard part is just trying to see where the best route will be from down in the streambed.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 4, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
"We're in a sea of poison oak! I hope I'm one of the ones that is immune to it!" Foreshadowing words from Linda, 2010.....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:20pm PT
I sent an email to Dave Nettle last night, and he already replied with a great bunch of original topos and maps! Also, Scott Thelen sent me some more details on Under the Knife.
So I updated the route list again, with links to Dave's topos:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide

Here are the topos and maps Dave sent, so you can see the whole group.
His topo for Eleven has gone missing, though.
Perhaps Paul has a copy in his stash of notes?
Patterson Bluff Left - Road Approach Map / Directions
Patterson Bluff Left - Road Approach Map / Directions
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - trail map and select route locations
Patterson Bluff Left - trail map and select route locations
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - overview map - all route locations
Patterson Bluff Left - overview map - all route locations
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - The Way of the Dragon - beta
Patterson Bluff Left - The Way of the Dragon - beta
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - The Way of the Dragon - topo
Patterson Bluff Left - The Way of the Dragon - topo
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - Some Assembly Required
Patterson Bluff Left - Some Assembly Required
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - Under the Gun
Patterson Bluff Left - Under the Gun
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - Some Restrictions Apply
Patterson Bluff Left - Some Restrictions Apply
Credit: Dave Nettle
Patterson Bluff Left - The Face That Launched 1000 Clips
Patterson Bluff Left - The Face That Launched 1000 Clips
Credit: Richard Leversee ?
Patterson Bluff Left - La Cara Perfecta &#40;Ten&#41;
Patterson Bluff Left - La Cara Perfecta (Ten)
Credit: Dave Nettle
micronut

Trad climber
Apr 4, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
This thread is pure gold fellas. Thanks for all the contributions so far. I grew up just off Piedra rd and my childhood was spent up in them parts crawdaddin at Kirch Flat, catchin hog sized browns at Black Rock and even climbing at Patterson a couple times in my early climbing career. Aske me about trying to climb JCA's Wide World of Sports, as teenageres, with a set of borrowed bongs and angles (lent by an old big wall vet) cause we saw that awesome photo of it in the Patagonia catalog.

We were 5.7 climbers. Got about 11 feet off the ground and got two months of roadburn and poison oak.

Anybody got a shot of that old photo?

great swimmin holes around there too!
great swimmin holes around there too!
Credit: micronut
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 4, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
Proud effort Micro!! Nice!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 4, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Anybody got a shot of that old photo?
Yeah, it has been discussed on some of the threads linked.
Credit: Jaybro

This one's pretty good, too:
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Apr 4, 2013 - 09:59pm PT
Hi thanks sooo much on all that beta, my friend kent has been talking about ten for years, i am for sure this season going to petterson and check it out from the top, and not battle all that po and goat trail stuff,this map to ross crossing road looks great! once again thanks a ton for all the info, cheers mikea.
photo not found
Missing photo ID#297356
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 4, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
Cool, Mike.
I just added a google maps version of Dave's map from Shaver Lake to the top of Patterson Left, to see a scaled version:
google map Shaver Lake to top of Patterson Left
The google version makes one detour east/west instead of going south from "(B)" and across the creek; not sure what is going on there.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 10, 2013 - 12:54am PT
Ok... One time I took the Wife and Kids to Courtwright for a week of fun, I think they had fun. Anyway we took a little detour on the way home, one that Mark Powell himself said is a fun little drive, down the Kings Canyon.

This was the first big cliff to come into view, as we drove down in the direction of BLACK ROCK RES. This might have been below BR or about the same distance down canyon. It has been a long time.

Two views of same cliff. <br/>
Kings Canyan
Two views of same cliff.
Kings Canyan
Credit: guyman

Any ideas??

At first I thought it was the formation named "Black Rock Dome" in Clint's new guide, but from the photos that are posted I can't tell.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 01:13am PT
Guyman, I think those might be above the reservoir further toward Wishon. There is a LOT of rock a long the road and in the river bottom. I know one area is about 1,000' to the river bottom. Haven't driven it in years. Now I am going to have to take another look. Nice pics. Tks.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 02:21am PT
Guy,
At first I thought it was the formation named "Black Rock Dome" in Clint's new guide, but from the photos that are posted I can't tell.
I'm pretty sure your photos are of Black Rock Dome.
Compare DavyTree's photo with your upper photo - they both have the big arches on the left hand side, corners to the right, trees on top, etc.
Black Rock Dome - north and slightly west of One Pitch Wonder
Black Rock Dome - north and slightly west of One Pitch Wonder
Credit: DaveyTree / Clint Cummins
Two views of same cliff. <br/>
Kings Canyan
Two views of same cliff.
Kings Canyan
Credit: guyman
Your lower photo is a view of the same dome, from further north, so the arches on the left side are not as prominent.
Nice photos!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 02:30am PT
Looks like black rock dome to me
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 10, 2013 - 02:37am PT
Me too...
THX.

So no known routes???

Killer, looks like its above the dreaded PO.


And Micronut says there be big browns in Black Rock... Im stoked.

I have more photos from that trip, some are of the formations already identified. will post soon.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
Guyman, don't know what I was looking at but I think you guys are right about those being BR dome. It is definitely above the PO. Approach might be better from Ross Crossing above. Never fished the lake but heard from others it can be good.

It looked like there was a wall of some sort to the north of BR reservoir when looking from the top of 1-Pitch Wonder.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 10, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
So no known routes???

Actually, I hadn't really checked carefully.
There is at least one route, done by Richard Leversee, naturally,
and reported in the 1997 AAJ.
http://books.google.com/books?id=FattUWiYu80C&pg=PA141&lpg=PA141&dq=%22Black+Rock+Dome%22&source=bl&ots=xyHZ3bn61n&sig=MA6sUy3DGZ5J_0ZxCZKiJcInYZI&hl=en&sa=X&ei=miBmUYCOAcnKqQG2rIGwDg&ved=0CC0Q6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=%22Black%20Rock%20Dome%22&f=false

They described "gnarly bushwhacking along the base" when approaching from the NW via Ross Crossing Road.

I've added it to the route list:

58. Bad Day at Black Rock 5.10+, 4p, in center, 1: knobs and bolted face, then cracks and face climbing next to chimney, AAJ 1997
FA: Jim Zellers, Pete Taylor, Richard Leversee, 8/1996

I also modified the overlay for Black Rock Dome with my best guess at the location of this climb.
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
Nice find Clint. It just keeps getting better and better. I would love to see his notebooks.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 11, 2013 - 12:29am PT
I'm curious, has Richard Leversee seen or posted on any of this stuff??
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 12:50am PT
Rene,

Scott Cosgrove sent Richard Leversee an email at the end of March, so he may have checked this out.
I don't know if he posts here.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 11, 2013 - 12:56am PT
I talk with Richard back in 2010 when I was going out there again. He gave me some beta.( a project, shhh!) and was aware of the interest then. He sounded the same to me as always though he has moved on to other things than climbing.

Yerian wasn't buying it though, " Leversee is a lifer, he'll be back!"
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 11, 2013 - 07:06pm PT
Clint.... thanks.

RL is a lifer
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 11, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
What Coz said! Both about Richard's spiritual path and the way he brought me, like he did Scott, in to pick some amazing plums. Maybe Hanuman and the golden pears is a better metaphor.
Those two routes on Balch camp flake, Wide world and The Passionate Life, are two of the coolest wide climbs I've ever done, let alone put up. and he took me right up to meet them!
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 11, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
Richard sold all of his gear but he still has his big black book.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 11, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Between Richard's photo overlay and AAJ reports, and Dave's topos, map and beta, all the stuff on Patterson Left is easy to locate and ready to climb (in season).
I suppose there are a couple of missing topos for Under the Knife, Eleven and Millenium Falcon, but people can just climb them and make new topos, no big deal.
So there's no urgent need to "shake down" Richard for more beta. :-)
So many climbs there already with good topos/beta and ready to do.

Of course there are a few things that would be nice to have:
 old or new climbing shots like the ones Scott mentioned (P.S. Ed has offered to help scan slides and I can scan prints, so if you are really in Belmont you should contact me). For new ones, just wait for this summer/fall. :-)
 a few cliff shots taken with a little better camera (tripod and maybe telephoto). Then I could translate Richard's black & white overlay to a big color version. Ditto for the right side. David's ipad/smartphone photos were taken with good lighting, but are too blurry to see fine details on the farther away cliffs.
 more details on Herb Laeger's routes. Kris said in one post that he did about 15 climbs there with Herb. It's not urgent, though, since the poison oak grew back to overhead height, so the climbs are not very accessible now. But it would be good to have this info available in case there is another fire or if there are some better access options.
 a line on the main satellite view showing roughly where the old road goes to the top of Patterson Left
 a line on the main satellite view showing there the 2010 trail goes in from below to Balch Camp Flake
Patterson Bluff - all crags
Patterson Bluff - all crags
Credit: google / Clint Cummins
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2106135/Patterson-Bluff-online-guide
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2013 - 10:10am PT
Interesting about Big selling his gear. I wouldn't think he could stay away for ever. I still would pay to see that binder.

Clint I agree. Next time I will take a good camera. And there is way more good beta in one spot than ever before. Heating up quick now so I may be waiting until fall to go again unless it cools down. That place just calls to you once you go. So many FAs up there still to do.

For example. There is a smaller bluff below and left of wedding wall. Haven't given it a name but O am sure someone has. Seems like approach is not too bad but its in PO territory. I would think it has to hold a few ink FAs. Anyone?
Credit: DaveyTree
More to dream about at PB
More to dream about at PB
Credit: DaveyTree
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