Several years into 70m rope availability, what say you?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 79 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 08:27am PT
60 meters is quite a ways. Enough for me.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Mar 26, 2013 - 08:55am PT
In the Gunks, most pitches are less than 50m. Some are only 20'. A 60m line can go bottom to top in many places and bottom to grand traverse ledge most of the time.

I'd say 70m is overkill in the Gunks. However, being the cheap bastard that I am, I only have a 70m line that is very useful at other places like the 'daks, NH, Yos...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:37am PT

Me too--60m is great. . .

remember the 'old' ropes used to be 150 feet!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:42am PT
I use a 70m 9.4 for freeclimbing but since I've been mostly aiding recently don't see much of a need. The extra distance you can go also means that you're having to carry extra gear or running out when you try to short fix.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:48am PT
I love the 70m lead for linking pitches, and especially the 70m haul line for extra long linked hauls.

I bought a 60m haul line because it was cheap, but I really wish it was 70m.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:10am PT
It entirely depends on the area. If I'm not using the extra 10 meters, why would I want to carry it?
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:11am PT
remember the 'old' ropes used to be 150 feet!

Yep,
Then 164'/50m, 197'/60m, 229'/70m, 262'/80m.

Sad to say that as I've aged my body weight has kept pace with rope lengths
in feet= pounds, right now my weight is at the 70m length, would like to be at 60m like my rope. LOL

I'm good with a 60m rope.

Carry on,
Tad

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:16am PT
Munge...i use them for all of the reasons you mentioned EXCEPT alpine rock or alpine climbing. I find that for those two instances the extra wt, (remember you'll need more gesr) doesn't compesate for the extra length.
Oliv3r

Trad climber
SF
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:24am PT
I would rather have a 60 if I was only going to own one rope. I have a 70 and enjoy it when the opportunity to link pitches presents itself, but the rest of the time it's just extra rope to keep track of. More often than not I end up using a partners 60.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:29am PT
Cut my last rope into two pieces.

Too damn long for the solo top-roping I was doing.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:38am PT
I'm with Donini, extra length is not worth the extra weight, in the mountains. For cragging, 70m is probably ok; I still use a 60 though.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:44am PT
Interesting this topic just came up, as I've just decided to order a 70, 9.8 after usually climbing on a 60 for years. I'd actually won a 70 in a raffle a year ago, but it is a 10.5 and too damn heavy and bulky to carry around---at least for lazy, old me. While a 70 is overkill at my local areas (even a 60 is overkill at most of them!!!!), travelling, especially to areas that primarily feature sport routes, I have found that a longer rope is becoming a necessity for many routes. And, my first rope was a 120 foot, 3/4 inch (I think) Goldline!!!!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:11am PT
I just won a new 9.8 X 70M Sterling in an AAC event. Only used it one day so far but it handles beautifully. It would have been nice to have that much cord in the Black BITD.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:15am PT


"right now my weight is at the 70m length, would like to be at 60m like my rope"...

LOL!!!...
John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:33am PT
70 has been soooo nice I'm tempted to go 80
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Just plunked down $$$$$ on a 60m
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:36am PT
I just got an 80 for climbing at the Creek.....heading out tomorrow to bust it's cherry.
Edge

Trad climber
New Durham, NH
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:50am PT
I only upgraded to a 60 two years ago, a Sterling Velocity 9.8, and love it. It is now time to replace it prior to my road trip, and I don't know that for the type of climbing I do that a 70 would be necessary. I only climb sport on occasion, like shorter pitches on alpine for the weight savings, and most of the classic trad routes were put up with shorter ropes; I'm not compelled to link pitches unless there is a good reason to do so.

I'm looking at the 60 x 9.8 Sterling Velocity, would like a bi-color, and my experience is that the dry coatings don't last worth a damn and would be largely unnecessary if I'm climbing mostly rock. I'm just waiting to find one on sale, but if that doesn't happen in the next month I suppose I'll just drop the $200 from Moosejaw.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:58am PT
I just got a 70 recently... inadvertently. The place I ordered from were out of the 60 version (those must have been bought up by the old geezers!), so they sent me a 70. When I first got it, I thought, "Damn, this is one helluva heavy 60 meter rope!"

Since it's an 10.5, I just cut off 10 meters. But for non-alpine routes and a half millimeter less diameter, I'd get a 70 fer sure. Not that I'm going to use my new rope in alpine environments... still too heavy at 10.5.

Eric
Matt M

Trad climber
Alamo City
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
It all depends on what/where I'm climbing. There is absolutely no perfect rope.

Gunks? 60m Half Ropes - Can get down in one rap from nearly everything.
Multi Pitch Cragging with walk off? - 60m single is the go to. I've done shorter but noticed that the 60m is nice when you can stretch it JUST A BIT and perhaps link 2 SHORT pitches
70m - A MUST HAVE for certain areas. Really nice for single pitch cragging. Some areas seem MADE for a 70m (Index, WA comes to mind) The 70m is also nice for long, moderates where you can link pitches without the need for a lot of extra gear. Linking two hard-for-you pitches that would require a sizable rack is counter productive
80m - A bit more speciallized but again, it might be PERFECT for your area. I just discovered that an 80m is IDEAL for my local granite "multi pitch" - Enchanted Rocks, TX. Every pitch is just about 40m max. Makes getting down two raps EASY and you can link the easy climbs into nice long jaunts.

I absolutely HATE tag lines and use them only if absolutely needed / perfect for the situation.
Harder multi-pitch I often climb on THIN half ropes (60m) I don't have issues with the rope management and it will get me down anything if weather becomes an issue.
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