Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:48am PT
|
I love the 70m lead for linking pitches, and especially the 70m haul line for extra long linked hauls.
I bought a 60m haul line because it was cheap, but I really wish it was 70m.
|
|
Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:10am PT
|
It entirely depends on the area. If I'm not using the extra 10 meters, why would I want to carry it?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:16am PT
|
Munge...i use them for all of the reasons you mentioned EXCEPT alpine rock or alpine climbing. I find that for those two instances the extra wt, (remember you'll need more gesr) doesn't compesate for the extra length.
|
|
Oliv3r
Trad climber
SF
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:24am PT
|
I would rather have a 60 if I was only going to own one rope. I have a 70 and enjoy it when the opportunity to link pitches presents itself, but the rest of the time it's just extra rope to keep track of. More often than not I end up using a partners 60.
|
|
10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:38am PT
|
I'm with Donini, extra length is not worth the extra weight, in the mountains. For cragging, 70m is probably ok; I still use a 60 though.
|
|
Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:44am PT
|
Interesting this topic just came up, as I've just decided to order a 70, 9.8 after usually climbing on a 60 for years. I'd actually won a 70 in a raffle a year ago, but it is a 10.5 and too damn heavy and bulky to carry around---at least for lazy, old me. While a 70 is overkill at my local areas (even a 60 is overkill at most of them!!!!), travelling, especially to areas that primarily feature sport routes, I have found that a longer rope is becoming a necessity for many routes. And, my first rope was a 120 foot, 3/4 inch (I think) Goldline!!!!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:11am PT
|
I just won a new 9.8 X 70M Sterling in an AAC event. Only used it one day so far but it handles beautifully. It would have been nice to have that much cord in the Black BITD.
|
|
John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:33am PT
|
70 has been soooo nice I'm tempted to go 80
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:34am PT
|
Just plunked down $$$$$ on a 60m
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:36am PT
|
I just got an 80 for climbing at the Creek.....heading out tomorrow to bust it's cherry.
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:50am PT
|
I only upgraded to a 60 two years ago, a Sterling Velocity 9.8, and love it. It is now time to replace it prior to my road trip, and I don't know that for the type of climbing I do that a 70 would be necessary. I only climb sport on occasion, like shorter pitches on alpine for the weight savings, and most of the classic trad routes were put up with shorter ropes; I'm not compelled to link pitches unless there is a good reason to do so.
I'm looking at the 60 x 9.8 Sterling Velocity, would like a bi-color, and my experience is that the dry coatings don't last worth a damn and would be largely unnecessary if I'm climbing mostly rock. I'm just waiting to find one on sale, but if that doesn't happen in the next month I suppose I'll just drop the $200 from Moosejaw.
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
The great state of advaita
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:58am PT
|
I just got a 70 recently... inadvertently. The place I ordered from were out of the 60 version (those must have been bought up by the old geezers!), so they sent me a 70. When I first got it, I thought, "Damn, this is one helluva heavy 60 meter rope!"
Since it's an 10.5, I just cut off 10 meters. But for non-alpine routes and a half millimeter less diameter, I'd get a 70 fer sure. Not that I'm going to use my new rope in alpine environments... still too heavy at 10.5.
Eric
|
|
Matt M
Trad climber
Alamo City
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
|
It all depends on what/where I'm climbing. There is absolutely no perfect rope.
Gunks? 60m Half Ropes - Can get down in one rap from nearly everything.
Multi Pitch Cragging with walk off? - 60m single is the go to. I've done shorter but noticed that the 60m is nice when you can stretch it JUST A BIT and perhaps link 2 SHORT pitches
70m - A MUST HAVE for certain areas. Really nice for single pitch cragging. Some areas seem MADE for a 70m (Index, WA comes to mind) The 70m is also nice for long, moderates where you can link pitches without the need for a lot of extra gear. Linking two hard-for-you pitches that would require a sizable rack is counter productive
80m - A bit more speciallized but again, it might be PERFECT for your area. I just discovered that an 80m is IDEAL for my local granite "multi pitch" - Enchanted Rocks, TX. Every pitch is just about 40m max. Makes getting down two raps EASY and you can link the easy climbs into nice long jaunts.
I absolutely HATE tag lines and use them only if absolutely needed / perfect for the situation.
Harder multi-pitch I often climb on THIN half ropes (60m) I don't have issues with the rope management and it will get me down anything if weather becomes an issue.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
|
good insights all, thx much, keep it coming.
Especially Valley and Meadows climbers and Wallers.
Gracias
|
|
mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
|
ropes are for sailors
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
|
70 is great. If you actually climb enough to wear your rope down you can cut it down as the ends get fuzzy, creating a longer lasting rope. 70m pitches are fun too.
|
|
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
|
im going to 80m this year
|
|
gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
|
I'll never buy a 60m rope again. I've been using 70m exclusively for about the last 3 years.
I spent all last week in Indian Creek and climbed plenty of lines that were longer than 100ft.
Here's two examples where having a 70m was nice:
The Wave, on Supercrack Butress.
Top Sirloin, on Second Meat Wall.
I wish I'd had an 80m for Jolly Rancher on Pistol Whipped Wall.
|
|
jahil
Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
|
I have two 70s, climb in the Valley, TM and the Sierra with them all the time. I found I can do After 7 as a 3 pitch route - last time I went up with 2 noobs, our party of 3 passed everyone else on the route.
If I can find an 80 I'll buy it.
steve
|
|
Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
|
|
|
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
|
My buddy kyle cut one of his ropes down to 35m for simuling. Its perfect. Just enough rope for no drag.
It's not about speed it's about continuos climbing. Linking the whole chief in three huge pitches is just rad!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!