First 5.4d Onsight...

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Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 25, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Anybody have the scoop on this sick line? I heard it may have been locker, but last I heard he'd only just broken through the 5.4c barrier. Amazing in itself!

Waiting for the rad video that's sure to get posted soon.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Mar 25, 2013 - 12:20pm PT
Pretty sure a bunch of 2a's got onsighted in Red River Gorge this past year. But 2a+? Man.
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 25, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
That 5.4c is a total sandbag!

You know how climbers hate to have their routes down-graded...
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
5.4d, possibly even 5.4++! I can only imagine!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Here is a 5.4- that my son put up this week.
Credit: mike m
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
Numbaz, numbaz....we need numbaz
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:05am PT

"but last I heard he'd only just broken through the 5.4c barrier"...


Damned thing was BIG TIME "Sandbagged"...

Had to be more in line with 5.4+...

MisterE

Social climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:09am PT
You definitely don't want to fall on climbs of this severe grade or...






































Yer Gonna Die!!!11
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:59am PT
I'm totally sayin' the N Face of the Summit Pyramid on Mt Lassen is core
5.4b cause yer knott gonna catch me spewin' 'bout no 5.4c and then have
one o' ya go do it and dis me.










































Although it might merit a 'c' for CHOSS!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:09am PT
New wave Choss or old school choss rating?

The gyms these days don't even teach it, so how can the ratings be accurate on choss anymore?


Mike M, that climb looks rad!
Barbarian

climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 03:03am PT
5.4d? C'mon...everyone knows that's just old school 5.3. Will this grade inflation never end?
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:56pm PT

Butt is it PG13???
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:58pm PT
I dunno about 5.4D, but I've done some scary 4.11B.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:02pm PT
Thanks Munge. I am hoping to get Crusher on it tomorrow for the second and to confirm the grade. I will try to keep him from busting out the hammer as I hear it is like C3d if you don't want to free climb it.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
I agree with Barbarian, everyone knows 5.3d is the top.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
Put that d letter behind any number, sit back, and watch havoc reign.
5.4 d......best wire it on top rope before you venture forth.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
ask anyone, I am the MASTER of the 5.4d. I tear that sh_it UP. seriuosly. I don't like to spray about my exploits and epics in pushing the 5.4d/5.5a envelope. it's why you see no trip reports from me. I'm so often gripped that I forget to even shoot pictures (ok, I forget the camera but seem to remember the beer and green, sue me). someday, someday.

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:33pm PT

I came off a 5.1 today...

But to my credit, it was on the crux move...
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
hey, that's ok dude. we all struggle working up the ratings. you'll send someday..

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:35pm PT


This year 5.1 (eventually)...

Next year, the sky's the limit!!!...
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
I have confindence in your ability to transcend your current rating and send the hefty 5.2+
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 27, 2013 - 01:41am PT


5.2+ is asking a LOT!!!...

How about you let me bag that 5.2- first before jumping the gun???...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:54am PT
I totally sent some 4.0d stairs the other day!!! Wicked dude!!
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:11am PT
You've got it Locker... you're just hitting your stride!!!! :-)
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:13am PT

"You've got it Locker... you're just hitting your stride!!!!"...


I fuking FLOATED a 3rd class route the other day...(Actually a 3.6-)

GEARLESS!!!...
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:15am PT
that is sweet!
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:33am PT
I'd like to say I send Class 4, but I have no class. A social climbing pariah.


EDIT

Just out of curiosity, does anybody remember Class Five? I had one of their packs and a sleeping bag. What happened to them?
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
Why is there always that Jackass who rates it 5.4+, when it is obviously a 5.5a.

Geez, I hate that guy...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:40pm PT
why is it 5.1 and 5.2 never get the love?? I love em..5.3D is at my limit-
hossjulia

Trad climber
Where the Hoback and the mighty Snake River meet
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:53pm PT
No sh#t skully! Me too


My first day climbing, 5.1, 5.4, 5.3, 5.6. And that's how it went for 2 years before the 5.7 barrier was broken.

But I tell ya, that boot eating 5.3 on Wind Ridge deserved a c rating fer sure man
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 27, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
Old school 5.3 is todays 5.6 Ron, git after it!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
see ya
see ya
Credit: Mel Tormented
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
No chyt eh Tad! I mean think on it fer a second.. I always used to say climb smart not hard,,and now in my current shape,, that should translate right! So,,,,,5.3D IS climbing smart and not hard..Yur climbin,, yur gettin the view, and its easy schpeazy..Its brilliant i say!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
5.4d = 5.7

Nice day in the desert. Texas Canyon crag, SW Face, Hyperion Slab on t...
Nice day in the desert. Texas Canyon crag, SW Face, Hyperion Slab on the right. The Egg on the left. Spider & Stephan on Hyperion, 5.7.
Credit: Manila

PS. Route above is old skool 5.2-
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
that route is headsize dependent.

LOL!
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:42pm PT


Fuking DITTO!!!...

"that route is headsize dependent."...

LMAO!!!...


EDITED:

That fuking shot never fails to get me going...

Now with the additional head size it's fuking even funnier...

LOL!!!...
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