Sharma sends La Dura Dura

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saltandgranite

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
Has this been mentioned?

http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/chris-sharma-sends-la-dura-dura-5-15c?fb_action_ids=581890025155530&fb_action_types=og.likes&fb_source=aggregation&fb_aggregation_id=288381481237582

On a side note, what's Chris Sharma's favorite car?

PASSAT!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 24, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
wow, i can't even comprehend 5.15c
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:14pm PT
WAY TO GO, CHRIS!!! Adam Ondra claims "La Dura Dura" (limestone) is harder than "Change" (granite), making the hardest sport climb in the world a limestone route. LIMESTONE RULES!! Another inspirational effort by Chris.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
Mar 24, 2013 - 11:06pm PT

That is fantastic effort on Chris's drive and determination. Bravo!
dugillian

Trad climber
Vancouver
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:10am PT
HoHum.....Burp!
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:29am PT
I love his comment on the name in the video. "Which one are you going to do today chris?" "La dura" "which one is that? They're all hard!" "La dura dura"

Watching him bolt it on lead was too cool!!!
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:32am PT
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Mar 25, 2013 - 06:52am PT
if those punks scream like that in my gym their gonna get 86'ed,

Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:46am PT
this has been a very nice way to start my morning ...
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:47am PT
Yeah, that's right mock what you can't do or bring myself to understand. You don't have the growl or gnar or talent to touch the moves on a 9b+, but you have the gall to mock the tools and tactiics they use to achieve 9b+. if Sharma and Ondra stepped into your gym all the punks would be emulating them. You'd be the punk.
Right on Leggs, you said it. So inspirational to see Sharma still fighting to remain on the cutting edge. Even with his achievements he's a kind, humble, and gracious guy.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Next competitoin between Sharma and Ondra:

Who has been, and in the future, is most likely to get laid?

hint: who travels in a van with their parents?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Yeah, .15c... can't comprehend it..
jopay

climber
so.il
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:59am PT
Chris was just in St. Louis at the So.IL gym and he was most gracious making sure everyone who wanted got a signed poster, plus I got to see him send a 5.14 in the gym, quite impressive. I saw him compete years earlier, I believe he was 15, as was Katie Brown who also competed. I admire his dedication and still at the head of the table.
pc

climber
Mar 25, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Great! +1 on Leggs' comment.

Cheers,
pc
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 25, 2013 - 10:56am PT
I would like to see Sharma pair up with Alex, or Tommy, and do something in the Valley
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:12am PT
I'm sure Sharma cares that you would like to see him do trad.
Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Right on Leggs, you said it. So inspirational to see Sharma still fighting to remain on the cutting edge. Even with his achievements he's a kind, humble, and gracious guy.

What I like too, rurprider, is that he seems so bright-eyed about everything he tackles, the people he meets and climbs with and the varied environments he finds himself in.

PC ... right?!


;)
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:26am PT
Class act! Way to send Chris.
Credit: Studly
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:28am PT

I would like to see Sharma pair up with Alex, or Tommy, and do something in the Valley

He will. When he reaches his limit and gets bored, then trad will be the next thing... I would imagine anyways...
Leggs

Sport climber
Home away from Home
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:28am PT
My morning is getting better by the minute. :)

(nice photo, Studly)
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:34am PT
Sorry Patrick, you are reading way more into what I said.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:51am PT
When Chris wanted to "learn" trad he went and onsighted the Rostrum. It would be cool to see him back in the valley though for sure.
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:54am PT
Didn't he try to onsight free the nose a few years ago?
saltandgranite

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
You are correct, Brandon. From what I've heard Sharma just doesn't really care about the valley... certainly not on the level that you need to. This is really where TC took a left and Sharma took a right with their obsessions so many years ago. But you better believe he could crack climb if he wanted to.
Credit: saltandgranite


Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Already a classic archival photo!
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 25, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
I just got back from six weeks in Spain climbing at Oliana. Watching Chris and Adam in the final stages of this route was really eye openning. Gave me a huge respect for Sport Climbing as a legitimate form of climbing. Much respect to Chris and Adam, both super amazing people on many levels.

Chris Sharma, La Dura Dura
Chris Sharma, La Dura Dura
Credit: Adamame
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
"When Chris wanted to "learn" trad he went and onsighted the Rostrum."

I believe he onsighted the Alien Roof finish to the Rostrum also. Sooooooooo, yeah.

If I were Sharma, I'm not sure I'd bother with the valley either. Have you seen where he LIVES?? 50 world class cliffs within an hour of his house.


The valley has awesome climbing, that's for sure. But what a clusterf*#k that place is as far as logistics. There's a reason that many hardcore Valley denizens, like even Cedar Wright, moved away.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
^ Agreed. For people who like steep sport climbing, the Valley is almost all slab. Further, Sharma onsighted Excellent Adventure when he was 19 years old.

Edit: He was 17 at the time he onsighted Excellent Adventure.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 26, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
He might be in The Valley sooner then you would think.
Mike Friedrichs

Sport climber
City of Salt
Mar 26, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
Ummm, perhaps not everyone agrees that the valley is the center of the universe.

After I climbed limestone in Spain I had no desire to go back to the valley and do the same move over and over again.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Mar 26, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
Well - that climb, La Dura Dura, seemed to be pretty damned hard, even for Sharma!

I wonder who else, besides be and Ondra, has been getting on it, and how they have been doing. A time lapse film of a stream of triers would probably be a bit amusing to see....


Have to wonder how much more difficulty is humanly possible. Although, I saw one of you Supertopo guys had posted (on Facebook) about some new "Gecko Skin" development that, if used in a climbing gear application, seemed might make holding on almost a moot point.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 26, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
I have no doubt that Chris Sharma could become one of the world's best trad climbers if he chose to.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Mar 26, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
^ Has an interviewer ever asked him if he has interest in with gear climbing, or mountaineering for that matter?

On the other hand - why do we suggest a sport climber ought to desire gear climbing? We don't think people who rock climb, gear or sport, should seek out high altitude routes. Nor do we think they should start bouldering highball lines.

Maybe some of us are gear snobs(the horreur!)

kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 26, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
I thought the second ascent didn't count unless it was done by a twelve year old girl??

EDIT: Just funning, Chris won't be outdone very easily.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
All the little girls are on 5.10 and 511 cracks in Woodfords Canyon......and spraying all over the web about it
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
when I head over that direction I'll flash it and then downrate it.

my typical fashion
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:54pm PT
All the little girls are on 5.10 and 511 cracks in Woodfords Canyon......and spraying all over the web about it

Ken Ariza, sorry we missed you and your friends!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
Seeing him in his formative (although he seemed already very 'formed') years around Santa Cruz, as many have said, a very unassuming young man. Kind, gracious...
Always great to see him to continue to make wonderful accomplishments.

Susan
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
Sharma is rare because he performs at the highest level but does not exude the snippiness and competitiveness of most top athletes. California cool at it's finest.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 26, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
Happeigirl, No one else has tried it whatsoever.

Chris has a new project next La Dura Dura that he has also been trying a lot and its also likely a 9B+ and in my mind a way cooler looking route. Its the line of draws to the right in my photo earlier in this thread.

And like I said you may see Chris in the Valley sooner than later. It should be obvious what project he will be on.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:43am PT
kennyt,

If you think you're crafty by editing your lame comment after the fact you're not. Your original post was this-
I thought the second ascent didn't count unless it was done by a twelve year old girl??
You went back to edit it afterwards.

Your comment stems from the mindset that somehow big rad "Trad Climbers" (whatever the term even f*#king means) are really more skilled than "sport" climbers (again, whatever that term means) because they/you place your own gear and get gobies on the back of your hands. What a joke.

News flash, anybody that climbs 5.14, twelve years old or not, is an extremely fit and honed athlete and could probably on sight any of that crap in Woodford's without ever having placed gear before.

BTW, Iv'e been to Woodford's one time. That was twenty four years ago so it wasn't me or my friends out there. In my opinion, for the most part, the place is a hyped up, out of the way turd pile being propped by windbags like you.

Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:52am PT
""And like I said you may see Chris in the Valley sooner than later. It should be obvious what project he will be on."

Are you hinting he's going to be joining Tommy on the Dawn Wall project this autumn? Oh man, that would be amazing for those two to pair up and finally get that thing.
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:59am PT
Very glad to see him send La Dura Dura. There is a yin and yang about the two that played out nicely in the film. I think both are fantastic!

Eric
John M

climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 03:02am PT
Your comment stems from the mindset that somehow big rad "Trad Climbers" (whatever the term even f*#king means) are really more skilled than "sport" climbers (again, whatever that term means) because they/you place your own gear and get gobies on the back of your hands. What a joke.

Take a breather there. I doubt Kenny meant what you think he meant. He just likes to joke. And there are a number of young girls crushing hard climbs.
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:01am PT
Kp,please see johns comment,and who brought up woodfords? and you have know idea where my comment stems from.

Woodfords is what it is. it's fun and it's in my backyard that's the hype for me. sorry it doesn't meet your standards isn't it cool that you never have to go there again?

You went back to edit it afterwards.

that's usually how it works. my orig. comment was meant as a joke I didn't think anyone was thick enough to see it as a stab at Sharma/sport climbing. I was wrong.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:06am PT
Can we please banish the word "send" from our vocabulary?
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:23am PT
Geeze, Ariza, did you even think that Kenny has done plenty of sport development and is probably joking around? Pissing on some crag you don't know much about over a little hero worship is fairly petty and downing on those who have fun there sounds like the work of a pompous dick bag. Good day, mon ami :).
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:25am PT
I love sport climbing and crack climbing equally It's too bad I'm not "RAD" at either.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:35am PT
And like I said you may see Chris in the Valley sooner than later. It should be obvious what project he will be on.

He'll probably help Tommy unlock it too. It's right up his alley.

Together they will SEND!!!! ;)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:44am PT
Congrats to Chris, he's amazing.

The word "send" doesn't bug me.

...But "splitter"....it used to be a noun, or an adjective to describe a crack.
Now, the weather is splitter. That f*#king bugs me.
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:13am PT
But sending a splitter is the best.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:13am PT
I can't believe humans can do stuff like these guys do. Amazing. Hope to be able to comprehend 5.12 some day in far away future...but 5.15+...goddamn...unbelievable.


Monkeys are sendin da gnar proj in splitter weather bra! :)
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 27, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
my orig. comment was meant as a joke I didn't think anyone was thick enough to see it as a stab at Sharma/sport climbing.

This forum is full of posts stating how trad climbers are the Real Mccoy and clipping bolts is for little girls and pansies. Your original post sure looked like yet another. Couldn't help but to call it out.

I love sport climbing and crack climbing equally It's too bad I'm not "RAD" at either.

That makes two of us.

Still think Woodfords is way overhyped on this forum so no, you'll be happy to know I won't be back.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 27, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
KP... chill... thick skin... s'all good.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 27, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
Flouride & Big Mike, Think of something steeper that has never been freed and fits his skill set.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 27, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
Monkeys are sendin da gnar proj in splitter weather bra! :)

LOL!!


Flouride & Big Mike, Think of something steeper that has never been freed and fits his skill set.

Hmmm.. Wish i knew the valley better...
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Sharma on leaning tower? Maybe the line from the ledge that skinner/honnold was/are working? Hell I dunno...
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
Good guess matty. Sounds about right...
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 27, 2013 - 02:40pm PT
While he's there may as well hop on Magic Line just to (try?) get the second. Not his style but would be interesting to see fo sho.
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
I met Chris in the valley, I don't know maybe ten years ago. I had just finished 10.96 feeling pretty good. Sat down to puff and up walks Chris who proceeded to flash Hang Dog Flier 5.12c. So yeah he probabally could d become one of the best trad climbers, but he seems a bit uninterested in persuing crack climbing, so it most likely won't happen. That said climbing is a great pursuit regardless of style and times change as do people. To call someone out for making a joke about a recreational activity only reveals the caller.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 28, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
And like I said you may see Chris in the Valley sooner than later. It should be obvious what project he will be on.
Hey Adamame , it is not obvious what project Chris would be on.
please tell us what it is going to be. It would be astonishing to see him concurring new nights in the Valley
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 28, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
Should be sick if he gets serious. Look forward to the results.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Mar 28, 2013 - 06:51pm PT
Nice little video. These two guys are terrific!
chill

climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
Mar 28, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
you may see Chris in the Valley sooner than later. It should be obvious what project he will be on.
That smooth side of Columbia boulder that faces the latrine?
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