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North
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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Anyone have any recent info on New Dawn conditions? Conditions of rivets? Really need 3 big cams (>4")? Oh yeah, did you have fun? Thanks.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Mar 24, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
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I would like to hear some responses too, thinking of New Dawn in the Late Summer early Fall.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Mar 24, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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I'd take the big cams, at least for the right side of El Cap Tower. It's wide up there.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Mar 24, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
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I climbed it last June. Fantastic route that goes through a really cool part of the stone.
Rivets are old and bent but are all there. I was psyched for big cams coming off on Lay Lady Ledge. You dont need most of the iron on the ST rack. We placed a handful of sawed-offs and a couple of beaks, mostly on the 2nd to last pitch
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Mar 25, 2013 - 01:13am PT
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I've only done the lower part, to Texas Flake, and it was a very nice line. We finished on Tribal Rite, which if you go that way had lots of rotten head wires five or seven years ago.
There's a great, steep hand and fist crack that leads to the far right edge of the base of Texas Flake. The "normal" route takes a broken, crappy path to the left of the uber-stellar crack. I wish we'd gone up that way, but it wasn't my lead.
The haul to that far edge of Texas Flake base kinda sucks, because the bolts are too close to the ledge, and the bag gets stuck in the flared top of the crack. There might be a "rotten 1/4er" right there that could be chopped, and a shiny new ASCA put in, further out. Just saying.
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