Queen Mountain; mega-awesome or overhype

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Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Mar 7, 2015 - 08:41am PT
Me and the Stahl Bros discovered the Climbing on Queen Mt.

Our first trip up there, we went in from the East side of the Wonderland.
we found some cool Indian caves and matatees (sp?).

We found the Central Valley and did a couple climbs, we descended straight over the hills towards Uncle Willies and noted a better way to get up there.

The next day we hiked up from the Queen Mt. Parking lot.

I did about 6 FAs up there before it was run rampant with everyone and their brother cleaning up all classic lines as fast as they could.

It may be the Best Rock in Josh.

I was a little upset about the initial reaction about the area after we first discovered it. Most folks said it wasn't worth going up and checking it out, it was just another one of Dr. Fs ravings about some mythical rock just over the hill, it was probably crap or worse.
Was I right? yes


And then there was the unpleasantness with the "Nimbo Clatus"
Now called "The Black Diamond"
cavemonkey

Ice climber
ak
Mar 7, 2015 - 08:49am PT
Christmas tree arete
Lotus something or other that aldude did
crack queen

All awesome

perfect fingers

never had the qi hone eees for white rain even at the top of my game
how many ascents does that thing see a year?
looked like the hardware could use replacement.....not that that was what stopped me!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 7, 2015 - 10:01am PT
Thought it was kind of a cool place. Pretty good grunt of a hike for Josh, but that gets you away from the typical and crowded, which adds points to any routes for sure. Fell off one route after pulling off a hold, but the rock seemed pretty good quality for the most part.

Look forward to going back.

The view of Walt's Rocks after you come over the ridge... me 'n the Brass one didn't get this view until we'd bushwhacked in and then found the right trail on the way out.


BrassNuts on Perfect Fingers (10a). Sweet route.


BN Searching For Nuts (10b) on Squirrel Rock (this is the one I ejected off of after pulling a hold).


BN on a late-afternoon run on Killer Queen (11b).

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Mar 7, 2015 - 11:22am PT
It all looks pretty good to me...it's away from the masses and it's got Pinyons growing. What more could you want?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 7, 2015 - 11:26am PT
I was up there in '85?(I think) and did some thing that I have a feeling was on 'upper Walt's wall and pulled to high a step, Dionked but good, returned an hour later and sent it , called it "Some Times You Peel Like A Nut"5.10d? as i remember it , it was slab/face start to the move to a crack then when the crack ended, at a overlap, a cool scoop filled with ripples and chicken heads rounded knobs, Kinda run out.
But I have never seen it anywhere . Some one Wanted to call it Giagantor, and since I was bloody an' bruised, Some one else (mike Paul,?) called it that, on the hike out, when I could not keep up, they recommended Loose Lips! for the next day! FCKRS
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Mar 7, 2015 - 12:35pm PT
Flying over Queen Mountain, you can see one Dome that is Bigger than anything around.

It's on the Far East End of the Mt.
I hiked up there once, and it's Big!!!
And it was really steep, I could only see Aid Lines going up the steep part..

And it's not the Indian Head, it's South a couple miles, Deep in the Heart of Nowhere.

Anyone know about this Dome?
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 7, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
Sounds like Indian Head, and the aid climb is good fun.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 7, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
Craig is correct. The climbing is great, but the scenery and remoteness are the kicker. It's the highest plateau in the park, and by far the wettest so the plant and animal life are stunning. For many years a bunch of us would gather on Thanksgiving day and hike from the Ranch parking lot all the way to 49 Palms oasis. Tradition.

Hands down my favorite zone in the monument.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Queen+Mountain,+Joshua+Tree+National+Park,+California+92277/@34.052503,-116.0997255,14z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x80dac1d01ca978f9:0x3f5f8d6adb3b0512!5m1!1e4
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Mar 7, 2015 - 03:41pm PT
bvb, your link doesn't work

if someone can post a map, I can point out the Megadome.

Here is another super great Hike:
hike up the 29 Palms Oasis stream bed, then around the canyon to the East, loop around to the North, then West through a super narrow canyon between 2 huge rock walls back to the stream bed. ~3 hours

You can see it from Queen Mt. when you look over the North Side.
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Mar 7, 2015 - 07:11pm PT
The beer at Queen Mountain is head and shoulders better than anywhere else in the Park.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 7, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
I set up for 60 high school kids out there and everyone had a blast. It was noob-centric but perfect for it. My college age leaders did a fine job.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Mar 7, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
This one works, Craig.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Queen+Mountain,+Joshua+Tree+National+Park,+California+92277/@34.052503,-116.0997255,14z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!3m1!1s0x80dac1d01ca978f9:0x3f5f8d6adb3b0512!5m1!1e4"
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Mar 7, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
"Blessed shall you be when you come in, and blessed shall you be when you go out."
ST4L
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Mar 8, 2015 - 08:26am PT
Google maps doesn't show good enough detail in that area for me to find it.

On my USGS topo the Dome is on the East side of Peak 5367

It's NE of the highest Queen Mt. Peak of 5677.

Here is Eric Eriksson on the FFA of "Bloodline" 5.12
I'm sure there isn't a line at the base of this thing.
Messages 21 - 34 of total 34 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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