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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 22, 2013 - 01:56am PT
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What do you think....I've probably done maybe 60 routes up on Queen Mountain;...far from an expert on the area, but I'm familiar with the climbing there;...Tucker has spent probably 100 days climbing on Queen Mountain.....is it the the cat's meow or just another cool place that gets somehow overhyped....I'd be interested on your take...We went up there last week;..had a blast.....
more pics;
http://www.joshuatreeclimb.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1363932545
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Mar 22, 2013 - 02:07am PT
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Looks good to me :-)
Curt
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romand
climber
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Mar 22, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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Mega-awesome!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2013 - 02:15am PT
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Wow;....very cool pics;......Is Queen Mountain more awesome than the Wonderland of Rocks.....
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romand
climber
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Mar 22, 2013 - 02:25am PT
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Perhaps, but maybe it's just because it's more work to get out there!
(in general)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2013 - 02:27am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2013 - 02:32am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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Moquah
Trad climber
Carson City Nevada
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Mar 22, 2013 - 10:55am PT
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I've climbed there a bunch and have done first ascents up there as well. I love it. Very rare to run into anyone else in that neighborhood and a good place to see bighorns, and other cool wildlife. If you like quiet and solitude and climbing off the grid you'll love it. Only problem is hauling in the beer.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:03am PT
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For a second i thought you were talking about Queen Creek, my least favorite area on the planet. Went to Queen Mt. with Tom Hargis about 20 years ago and remember that it was good but can't recall specific routes.
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10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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I was there once and didn't see anyone else. I got lost.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:13am PT
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Queen Mountain has some really stellar climbs, with Walt's "White Rain" being one of the best.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:19am PT
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I like it. The hike is not all that bad depending on the temp. The bouldering is excellent and so is the rope climbing.
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ruppell
climber
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Mar 22, 2013 - 11:50am PT
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For J-Tree it's pretty good climbing. You just have to remember that J-Tree it self is way over-hyped. The scene is the reason I love it down there not the climbing. 6000 plus routes and only a small percentage are true classics.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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All these years and I was laboring under the misconception you had to be a
Queen to climb there?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Mar 22, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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Lookin' good!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Mar 22, 2013 - 12:38pm PT
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The rock up there tends to be much better than most areas in JT. The bouldering is slightly overhyped, kinda like the BHMGrotto is for routes(basically take one star off everything) although still the best bouldering area in the Monument).
People are lazy, mostly. And the place is pretty spread out. I've rarely seen people at any of the crags more than 10min walk off the road.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 22, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
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It's a nice area for sure, but perhaps a tad overhyped. I personally prefer climbing out in the Wonderland, but am happy to huff it out there when the opportunity presents itself.
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mhay
climber
Reno, NV
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Mar 22, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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Smaller grained rock on Queen Mtn, definitely less grainy than the Wonderland. I'd say they're similar for quality of scenery.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Me and the Stahl Bros discovered the Climbing on Queen Mt.
Our first trip up there, we went in from the East side of the Wonderland.
we found some cool Indian caves and matatees (sp?).
We found the Central Valley and did a couple climbs, we descended straight over the hills towards Uncle Willies and noted a better way to get up there.
The next day we hiked up from the Queen Mt. Parking lot.
I did about 6 FAs up there before it was run rampant with everyone and their brother cleaning up all classic lines as fast as they could.
It may be the Best Rock in Josh.
I was a little upset about the initial reaction about the area after we first discovered it. Most folks said it wasn't worth going up and checking it out, it was just another one of Dr. Fs ravings about some mythical rock just over the hill, it was probably crap or worse.
Was I right? yes
And then there was the unpleasantness with the "Nimbo Clatus"
Now called "The Black Diamond"
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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Christmas tree arete
Lotus something or other that aldude did
crack queen
All awesome
perfect fingers
never had the qi hone eees for white rain even at the top of my game
how many ascents does that thing see a year?
looked like the hardware could use replacement.....not that that was what stopped me!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Thought it was kind of a cool place. Pretty good grunt of a hike for Josh, but that gets you away from the typical and crowded, which adds points to any routes for sure. Fell off one route after pulling off a hold, but the rock seemed pretty good quality for the most part.
Look forward to going back.
The view of Walt's Rocks after you come over the ridge... me 'n the Brass one didn't get this view until we'd bushwhacked in and then found the right trail on the way out.
BrassNuts on Perfect Fingers (10a). Sweet route.
BN Searching For Nuts (10b) on Squirrel Rock (this is the one I ejected off of after pulling a hold).
BN on a late-afternoon run on Killer Queen (11b).
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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It all looks pretty good to me...it's away from the masses and it's got Pinyons growing. What more could you want?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I was up there in '85?(I think) and did some thing that I have a feeling was on 'upper Walt's wall and pulled to high a step, Dionked but good, returned an hour later and sent it , called it "Some Times You Peel Like A Nut"5.10d? as i remember it , it was slab/face start to the move to a crack then when the crack ended, at a overlap, a cool scoop filled with ripples and chicken heads rounded knobs, Kinda run out.
But I have never seen it anywhere . Some one Wanted to call it Giagantor, and since I was bloody an' bruised, Some one else (mike Paul,?) called it that, on the hike out, when I could not keep up, they recommended Loose Lips! for the next day! FCKRS
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Flying over Queen Mountain, you can see one Dome that is Bigger than anything around.
It's on the Far East End of the Mt.
I hiked up there once, and it's Big!!!
And it was really steep, I could only see Aid Lines going up the steep part..
And it's not the Indian Head, it's South a couple miles, Deep in the Heart of Nowhere.
Anyone know about this Dome?
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Sounds like Indian Head, and the aid climb is good fun.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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bvb, your link doesn't work
if someone can post a map, I can point out the Megadome.
Here is another super great Hike:
hike up the 29 Palms Oasis stream bed, then around the canyon to the East, loop around to the North, then West through a super narrow canyon between 2 huge rock walls back to the stream bed. ~3 hours
You can see it from Queen Mt. when you look over the North Side.
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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The beer at Queen Mountain is head and shoulders better than anywhere else in the Park.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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I set up for 60 high school kids out there and everyone had a blast. It was noob-centric but perfect for it. My college age leaders did a fine job.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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"Blessed shall you be when you come in, and blessed shall you be when you go out." ST4L
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Google maps doesn't show good enough detail in that area for me to find it.
On my USGS topo the Dome is on the East side of Peak 5367
It's NE of the highest Queen Mt. Peak of 5677.
Here is Eric Eriksson on the FFA of "Bloodline" 5.12
I'm sure there isn't a line at the base of this thing.
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