3 most prolifict Bigwallers on the internet.

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 65 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:17am PT
What kind of adjustable daisy Pete? My partner on mescalito snapped his fish one when he shock loaded it in a fall while cleaning (in situ lower out piece popped). Wouldn't trust an adjustable daisy as a backup.

I hang my bags off a sling, backed up by the lower out end of the haul line. To release the bags, I run the lower out line through a pulley to a grigri and use my body as a counterweight to lift the bags the couple of centimeters required to unclip the sling from the anchor. I'm too stupid for Munter mules, so like to keep it simple.
nopantsben

climber
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:23am PT
you just tie the haulbag to the anchor as you would tie an injured person to an anchor.using a munter mule. voila.

if you do not know how to do that, you better check that first before you worry about haulbags!
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:46am PT
Very informative Ben. Thanks for that.
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Mar 24, 2013 - 06:58am PT
Vitality, you have the right idea, just get a 20 ft piece of 7 or 8 ml perlon and attach it to your swivel or whatever master point is on top of the haulbag. Use a munter to attach it to the haul anchor and then tie it off with a mule knot. back up the pig with a clove hitch in the haul line and when you're ready to haul untie the clove, untie the mule and lower the bag off the munter thats already there. supa easy. I used to man handle the bags too until i decideded it sucked. If you havent lloked at a rock rescue book a lot of great ideas are in there and the pig is really just like dealing with a person except you're allowed to kick the pig.
nopantsben

climber
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:04am PT
Paul sorry if this came across smart-assed. but seriously, the munter mule is important, you should practice it and know how to do it. there is some videos on youtube and a lot of other info all over the internet...
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:35am PT
I just looked at this thread again with the intention of redacting the previous post as sarcastic and unproductive. Will leave it there so your reply makes sense. That's my usual response for someone professing THE way of doing something, and implying other practices are somehow invalid though.

In reality Ben, I just hadn't looked at that technique before my last wall climbing trip and so used a method I was comfortable and confident with. I'll play around with Munter mules before my next wall trip. The main point of my first post was to illustrate that there are other, simpler and easy ways to release bags that don't necessitate one-arm-curling your bags with one arm and releasing them with the other.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 24, 2013 - 08:05am PT
Let's see: Wayne Merry, Joe Fitschen... Royal Robbins has posted a few times...

Let's not forget Minerals. He's climbed a wall or two.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 24, 2013 - 10:41am PT
"I hang my bags off a sling, backed up by the lower out end of the haul line. To release the bags, I run the lower out line through a pulley to a grigri and use my body as a counterweight to lift the bags the couple of centimeters required to unclip the sling from the anchor. I'm too stupid for Munter mules, so like to keep it simple."

Yes, the mini-haul. An old school classic. Not an easy trick to accomplish, especially if you are on a hard nailup and have ten days or so of supplies in your pigs. If the pig weighs more than you, you may find yourself having to turn upside down and push against the rock with your feet to accomplish this task, while simultaneously attempting to unclip a carabiner.

"I used to man handle the bags too until I decided it sucked."

Ah. So there could be a Better Way... {wink}
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 24, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Yup, like not bringing the ground up with you <WANK>
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 24, 2013 - 04:35pm PT
So when was the last time you climbed a wall, there, Stevey old boy?
The Call Of K2 Lou

climber
Squamish
Mar 24, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Real bigwallers don't wear profilactics.

When you smell the way they do, is there even a chance of needing one? ;)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 24, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
In as laughably poor style as your best effort, Pete old bean, hasn't happened yet.
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
coz knows what he's doing.
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 24, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
Some Wall Folk have better Promotion Departments than others.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Mar 25, 2013 - 08:23am PT
Big wall techniques are a lot like the many, many different ways to brew coffee.

If you find one that you like and it works for you, then that's the perfect method for you.

There might be a "better" way, but if you like the method and result of the technique you're using, what can be better than that?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 25, 2013 - 09:06am PT
There is ALWAYS a Better Way. However that being said, the Better Way is whatever works best for you.

It's important to keep an open mind, and keep on refining your systems. Even after fifty walls, there are still things you can do to streamline your operations, improve your efficiency, make things a little faster or a little easier.

Even now when I get down off of a wall, I usually have a full page of scribbled notes regarding things I can fix, improve, add or reject. I like to try new ideas and see what works. For instance, I really loved when Max Jones posted a picture of the list he made while up on El Cap. However for the most part, I am pretty happy with my setup. But every now and then I read something and think, "Damn, I wish I had thought of that before!"

I'm also wondering if some of the posters here missed NorCalNomad's original point, which was rather tongue-in-cheek - he is not looking for the most prolific wall climber, because there are many who climb more walls than a couple old farts like me and Mark. And Chris is pretty much retired from climbing walls any more, however he has an interesting method of descent these days.

NorCalNomad's point is regarding who is providing information on the internet, and certainly Mark's stuff is the best available. He has put a ton of thought and work into his very informative posts and photos and videos.

I still make the occasional posting, like what you see above, but I think if you want direct answers to your questions, it's probably quickest and easiest to email me directly. Then we can fire emails back and forth as I help you figure things out. Mark - how many emails did you and I exchange before your first successful solo of El Cap, which you got first try? Five hundred? A thousand over the winter?

Besides here on McTopo, you can look around and find some of my stuff in a few different places.

Probably the single best source of information is the Index to Dr. Piton Stuff over at RC.com:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=241164

Dan Allard who is cliffhanger9 obviously spent some time tidying up the index - fixing broken coding, doing some re-formatting, and restoring a bunch of busted links and photos. I no longer have access to that forum, so if you have any questions, post them up here, or just PM me directly. So big time thanks to Dan for fixing that clusterfrig.

I see my Big Wall Checklist is still working not too badly:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Big_Wall-Aid_Climbing/Dr._Pitons_s_Ultimate_Big_Wall_Checklist_17.html

Folks have told me they have found the checklist useful.

You can also find some posts of mine in these two forums:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big-wall-and-aid-climbing/103989413

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?PHPSESSID=9847acc90a76305e872e1d223028a02a&board=1.0

Mark - this post could end up being a bit of a resource here on McTopo. Could you please post links to your stuff?

Also, don't forget Nanook's contribution, which is his new and under construction website that has tons of superb free topos and beta:

http://www.yosemitebigwall.com/

If anyone knows of any other good places on line to find stuff, please post 'em up, eh?

Every season in Yosemite, a few people introduce themselves to me, and tell me that they've found my tips useful. I really appreciate this, because I've put a lot of time and effort into writing stuff! At which point, I always ask them which tips they found the most useful, as that is very interesting to me, as it tells me the places I should focus on writing more stuff.

There's nothing that makes me happier to hear than that my writing has somehow inspired someone to get up on the wall and give it a try, and with any luck to also help them reach the summit.

Finally, it's not about being prolific - it's about having FUN! Because that's what it's all about. So go read up on stuff, go practise your systems, and go give the walls a shot. If this middle-aged lard-assed wiener-armed part-time wanker can wobble up a wall from time to time, maybe you can too.

Cheers, eh?
Pete

Edit: As per below, it was Chongo - my Wall Doctor - who first told me that there was always a Better Way. And he was right!
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Mar 25, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
The Better Way was coined by Chongo and we all know he had a similar style as the guy who claims "The Better Way" now, haa haa.

Bridwell has been posting on Facebook... so, my vote is: Bridwell, Middendorf and John Long.

It doesn't matter to me if they are not current climbing walls... they are the most prolific, in my mind.

klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jun 8, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
Oh yeah, John Long has done a ton more first ascents than anyone

how many can you name?

edit: my vote goes for Chongo

A non big wall climber that seems prolific to some people because he just talks about it.

PTPP is a better candidate, but his predilection for child porn hampers his chances for greatness
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jun 8, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
you big wallerz r uh sikk breeed...;^)
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jun 8, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Fukc You Ron
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