Never Got Around to Doing Tollhouse Traverse

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Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 21, 2013 - 10:06am PT
Never Got Around to Doing Tollhouse Traverse

Guess what I just found out?! Dingus has never done Tollhouse Traverse! Can you believe it???


Whaddaya spect from a Tennessee farm boy?


The All-American Dream?


Its up this road, innit?


Yes! The mighty Tollhouse.


Time for a warm up?


Its reason for being.


This was a goodun but I don't recall the name.


Great afternoon light


Killer sunset


Not bad for mid-March huh?


Not bad at all.


G'nite Fat Old Sun!


Tollhouse Dreams


It was a really nice sunset!


Didn't have a plan. That's how I ended up at the base of Friday the 13th lol.


It looked a little thin. My Tollhouse lesson years are a distant memory but I recalled enough to know this ain't no crack Mecca.


It was fun though a little thought provoking on the pro.


Nawmean?


Love that shirt btw.


It matches my rainbow rack.


Its Howdy Doody time!


I liked it!


Dropped some vital supplies so after a leisurely lunch at the summit van we circled back down and found our supplies. Friday the 13th didn't look any worse for wear to me.


Now about Tollhouse Traverse, I'd never even been over to that side of the rock! Do you know the way?


Sasha's done done it so she's gonna show me how its done.


Thus began our gentle race with the sun.


Hey she just kept going!


We might get up this thing after all.


Oh man the rock is really good on this route. Probably the best quality rock on the cliff.


I wondered why I'd never got around to this route.


But I dint beat myself up over it. Didn't have to! I mean, here, some 20 plus years after my first Tollhouse climb (Balls) I was gitnrdun!


Tollhouse, California, mid-March.


We watched falcons, hawks, vultures and other raptors all day long.


Really fantastic rock and it really does seem to be one of the best of its grade, in the state!


What's not to like?


Cool looks like I get a lead on this after all.


Thanks Sasha!


Another sunset finish.


Right according to plan, actually, made it back to van with no lamps.


And that was pretty much that.


Cheers!
DMT
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 10:12am PT
ps. Dropped my brand new Slater - Tollhouse Guidebook I'd bought so I didn't have to trash out my 25-year old copy of the older guidebook. Fell out of me pocket on the Traverse. If anyone finds it give me a holler, k?

DMT
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Mar 21, 2013 - 10:16am PT
Thanks for the report, looks like a lot of fun.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 21, 2013 - 10:18am PT
SWEETNESS!! Thanks for the beautiful tour Dingus.

I loves me some sunset shots.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 21, 2013 - 10:52am PT
It's hard not to enjoy some traverse! Thanks
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:00am PT
Dude it took me 11 years before I sacked up for the traverse. I onsighted that bitch;-) fun climb.
micronut

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Well done kids. Tollhouse Traverse is one of the gooduns fer sher!

Credit: micronut

Credit: micronut
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:05am PT
Nice! I want to do that traverse too, along with other routes in the area. Seems fun. And thanks for getting a few sunset shots, I like those!
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:33am PT
I think I'm goin there tomorrow after work dmt. I'll look for your book at the base, it did rain Wed but not too much. I'll let you know.
10b4me

Ice climber
Happy Boulders
Mar 21, 2013 - 11:51am PT
Never climbed there. The TT looks like fun
ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Mar 21, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
ehh...Tollhouse...

damn hot and windy exposed camping if you ask me.. ;)

Nothing to see around here folks! All the 'good' climbing is on the next ridge over...honest!!

hehehehehe.

Cheers

LS
micronut

Trad climber
Mar 21, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
Credit: the interwebs

Credit: micronut




moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Mar 21, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
I never even FOUND Tollhouse. I spent a couple of hours walking through the woods while trying to follow some map from mountainproject. lol
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Mar 21, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Looks like a good day out! My major outdoor activity for the day was skateboarding the hills south of Sunset Blvd, from my house to the car repair shop.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Mar 21, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
Nice TR, I gotta get on that rig this year.

Wamello is definitely in the sights too!
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Mar 21, 2013 - 08:54pm PT
Next time give us a holler Mr. Toast.
Come out to Shuteye with Mungey
Fletcher

Trad climber
The great state of advaita
Mar 21, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
Nice! Been wanting to get there someday. My bro-in-law lives in Clovis, so one of these days...

Eric
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Mar 21, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
I like 'Wandering Taoist' there , pretty stout little route on the far side .

Anyone done 'Art Baker' memorial route ? I got on it one super foggy day, and the crack was wet and seeping ...
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 22, 2013 - 12:44am PT
Sweet. Nothing like a western foothills sunset.

Keep on rockin', Dingus. The man w/ the best-vibed TR's.
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 22, 2013 - 01:06am PT
Dapper, those two climbs are my favorites on the house. Could do them over and over and be happy.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 22, 2013 - 02:04am PT
haven't climbed there since 2005... and almost always in the winter...
lots of ascents of the upper part of the Traverse in the dark, what fun!

and the sunsets can be otherworldly

tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Mar 22, 2013 - 11:23am PT
TJI.....I thought you did not like slab? ;)
Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 25, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Awesome weather up there this weekend. Sunny but cool. Saw or heard about 4 or 5 other parties out on the rock. Two groups were camped on top. We climbed "Farting & Belching", 5.9, which is an very interesting route with tricky protection. It is at the far west end of the main face. I think it would be very popular if it were a sport route, but with the right gear the cruxes are reasonably protected. It starts off with an easy lieback, but the hard section is a seam with intermittent pockets and shallow flaring cracks. Small cams and a range of slider nuts work pretty good. A range of sizes are good over the whole route and the belay at the top needs medium to big stuff.

I had not been on the route in 30 years and just remembered it as scary, but this time the moves really impressed me with their interestingness as well as their scariness!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 01:45am PT
Paul,

my friends Mike Clark and Tim Connors put up Farting and Belching. Mike and I teamed up for three more FA's at Tollhouse, all bolted on lead which was not the ethic at the time (mid to late 70's). I think we increased the number of 5.10 routes at Tollhouse by 300% with our three routes.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 26, 2013 - 02:14am PT
Great pics of a genuinely fine crag.

Has Werner bothered with this, I wonder?

Some may say, "Why would he?"

I'd just say he'd cry.

Soooo pretty.

Good job, DMT!

Ed, I'm gasping...cha!

"Note to all"--I am planning a longish venture to this crag, camp-style.

Hope to see you there!

http://www.climbingsource.com/LocalBeta/California/tollhouse.html

In the event you don't know how to Tool to the Tollhouse--
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:24pm PT


Deb Castro soloing the 5.7 variation of the Tollhouse Traverse, circa 2004


haha!! Climbingsource.....I created that page YEARS ago for Tollhouse. Best to get your info here:

http://www.summitpost.org/tollhouse-rock/151415

And here:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/tollhouse-rock/105733944
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
schaweet..!
this just in

climber
north fork
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Tiki- It's a love hate relationship. Hate it when I'm doing it love it when it's done.
micronut

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Givin Tollhouse a little Bump love.

Credit: micronut

The oh so photogenic Platinum Plus 5.8
The oh so photogenic Platinum Plus 5.8
Credit: micronut

Half A Snake.  5.9.  Center Turret first pitch.
Half A Snake. 5.9. Center Turret first pitch.
Credit: micronut

Credit: micronut

Cold December ascent of Free and Easy.  14 degrees out.  Himal style!
Cold December ascent of Free and Easy. 14 degrees out. Himal style!
Credit: micronut

My daughter Sierra, 12, after her first time up Tollhouse Traverses sp...
My daughter Sierra, 12, after her first time up Tollhouse Traverses splendid five pitches.
Credit: micronut
Nice morning light on the belay below the crux on Free and Easy.  Bumm...
Nice morning light on the belay below the crux on Free and Easy. Bummer its out of focus.
Credit: micronut

Macronut doesn't even need handholds on Falling Star
Macronut doesn't even need handholds on Falling Star
Credit: micronut

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 26, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
Dingus, how could you pass through and not stop in friendly Fresno long enough for me to buy you guys a beer? (We'll ignore the fact that I was probably at rehearsal for the chamber chorale I sing in.)

The Traverse is the Tollhouse equivalent of The Trough at Tahquitz, except I am unaware of an ascent of the Trough on crosscountry skis with ski poles. Here are a couple of pictures of my younger daughter, Lisa, following the friction vaiation of the last pitch. The rope in the foreground and the mess Lisa is carrying is the responsibility of my older daughter, Amy

Last pitch, friction variation, Tollhouse Traverse
Last pitch, friction variation, Tollhouse Traverse
Credit: JEleazarian

Lisa on Tollhouse Traverse last pitch -- friction variation
Lisa on Tollhouse Traverse last pitch -- friction variation
Credit: JEleazarian

If you start early enough, this is even climbable in the summer, and is perhaps 25 miles from my house.

John
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 26, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
hey there say, dingus...


neat share, for sure.... seeing the pics, a bit, too...
say, sure hope you get your guidebook back...

will keep this in mind, as to hopes prayers and wishes...
but, better it feel, and NOT you, of course... :)


as they say:
NEVER grab for stuff as it falls, though impulse and instincts
overtake us to do so... usually when things fall, we are NOT IN
precarious spots :O


course, you may not have been, at that time, either...
too many times, neat stuff falls from pockets, i lost some
neat stuff that way, so now, i PIN my pockets shut, :))

thanks again for the really nice trip report... :)
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
Dingus, how could you pass through and not stop in friendly Fresno long enough for me to buy you guys a beer?

Well... I'm afraid it didn't occur to me :-). Next time it will! Thanks!

Thanks too NeeBee!

I had a great time at Tollhouse. It'd been a long time for me, maybe 10 years.

DMT
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 27, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
Great TR Dingus... Tollhouse is fun.

But I read this:

my friends Mike Clark and Tim Connors put up Farting and Belching. Mike and I teamed up for three more FA's at Tollhouse, all bolted on lead which was not the ethic at the time (mid to late 70's). I think we increased the number of 5.10 routes at Tollhouse by 300% with our three routes.


Mid 70's....
I didn't think rap bolting had been invented yet.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 01:36pm PT
Back in the day, the prevailing ethic for establishing routes at Tollhouse was to anchor a long(600-foot) rope at the top of the cliff and run the rope over the proposed climbing line. The leader would then climb up and when they felt it was necessary to put in a bolt, they would tie into the rope and drill. Not rap bolting, but not ground up from stance, either.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
Nutjob...

Looks like a good day out! My major outdoor activity for the day was skateboarding the hills south of Sunset Blvd, from my house to the car repair shop.

Last year some time I was headed to Westwood after a mind blowing weekend in Hollywood at the W. I was in an altered state that had nothing to do with hallucinogenics or alcohol; a natural high if you will.

Hollywood at Vine will do that to a man.

Anyway, in Westwood both my daughters awaited me. We were headed out to dinner b efore I embarked on the long lonely drive back to Sacramento.

I was driving west on Sunset (like in a Steely Dan song, Babylon Sisters). I was in a funky mood. AS I drove along I glanced out my window (South) and there's a building there, where you can see right through a garage area like a tunnel, out into the LA basin. A white building out there near the Hustler store.

Anyway, as I pass through an intersection and look left (south) out the my window, I see him.

Him. He had long blonde hair streaming down his back, to his belt (LONG). He was somewhat husky and favored a Scandinavian complexion (pale rider).

Rider. He was on a long board and carving turns down one of those very steep hills you write about. He was arching big turns down that street, snowboarder turns; arms out, going for it. His long blond hair was streaming out behind him like a sound wave. I watched him make 2 or 3 turns...


And then I was through the intersection and I never saw the man again.

Your post evoked that L.A. feeling, it was like I was there all over again.

I love the city of the angels. I look forward to the day I can migrate south.

Cheers Babylon Sister!
DMT
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 27, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Back in the day, the prevailing ethic for establishing routes at Tollhouse was to anchor a long(600-foot) rope at the top of the cliff and run the rope over the proposed climbing line. The leader would then climb up and when they felt it was necessary to put in a bolt, they would tie into the rope and drill. Not rap bolting, but not ground up from stance, either.

Never heard of that one before, I will call it the "Tollhouse Method."

Add to the "Josh Method"

And your right... not exactly ground up.

Did you ever do any climbs at Courtwright Res. thataway???

Paul Martzen

Trad climber
Fresno
Mar 27, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
Thanks for posting up Bruce. Shaky Legs is a great route, but I have not been on True Grip or the Direct Direct. On my list now.

The 1976 guide talks about main face routes that were bolted with help from a top rope, but it is not real specific. I think it was a short term phenomena, but I think I will interrogate some of the FA guys. I know Brennen, Cehrs and Polasky and I climb regularly with Mark Haymond, so I should be able to find out more details. Geez - the sordid dirt on Tollhouse!

Speaking of old timers, Rich Calderwood came into MetalMark gym in Fresno yesterday for the first time in quite awhile. He had a triple bypass operation about a year ago and is just now starting to exert himself more. He was pretty influential in Fresno because of his Fresno State climbing class in the late '60s, early '70s. Rich started the development of Squarenail Rock for that climbing class. It was a nice pleasure to spend some time climbing and chatting with him. He is 76 and got himself up a gym 10a, but questioned the rating when he got down. He stated, "I never could climb 5.10 outside." I suspect that his 5.9 routes over on the Glacier Point Apron still command respect.
Gene

climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
Credit: Gene
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Mar 27, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
A Cast of Characters.
A Cast of Characters.
Credit: tiki-jer
The Hike In.
The Hike In.
Credit: tiki-jer
Eric McGee on pitch 2 of "Balls".
Eric McGee on pitch 2 of "Balls".
Credit: tiki-jer
Start of pitch 3.
Start of pitch 3.
Credit: tiki-jer
Ropeboy

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 27, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
OK, I'll come out of the wood work, snap my suspenders with authority, and comment on the Tollhouse rap bolting in the early seventies. We tried bolting on lead. It sucked. Scary long minutes hammering on a Rawl drill bit and standing on tiny or sloping stances were painful. My friends and I next tried bolting on rappel. We decided comfort was way better than ethical fulfillment.
We just tied two 150 foot ropes together and kept rapping multi pitch down till we reached the ground. {And hoped we could successfully climb the route we just bolted.)
The rock was solid, the leads were terrifying, the beer was cold, life was good.
Mark Haymond
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Mar 28, 2013 - 10:14am PT
.....and you did it all in skates, eh Mark? BTW, I have my original T-House guidebook lovingly wrapped, inspiring heartfelt words from Ropeboy inside. :)



Guess who's racing road bike crits as an up and coming Cat 3 racer? That slob to the far right, that's who! Nice work John taking 3rd in 45+ at the Tour de Murrieta! The lot of southern Sierra climbing folk will not recognize him......slim and super fit these days!
tiki-jer

Trad climber
fresno/clovis
Mar 28, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Well, That and the Lambada, Salsa and the Tango.....will keep ya fit ! Eh, John?
Norwegian

Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
Mar 28, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
que?

solo hablo espanol.
manzanita man

Social climber
somerset, ca.
Mar 28, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
dingus van sighting, cosumnes today.
el_pirata

Trad climber
Paso, CA
Mar 30, 2013 - 10:46am PT
pm sent on the missing guidebook
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