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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 20, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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Werner said:
This is how you're supposed to go climbing and belay. (above)
Modern climbers carry way too much sh!t and way too much sh!t in the heads.
Simple and elegant is the way .....
This is a peeve of mine. I see people carrying racks that are three times as big as is needed from our aged experience.
I was not that great of a climber, and I sewed things up when I wasn't soloing or whatever.
Taking all that stuff slows you down. I was trained by and OCD efficiency expert, who would get on me if I didn't rack things exactly right, and it was a great skill to have.
Seriously. Why take two or even three pigs up the Nose. You will be slower and the Nose is exposed in crappy weather. If you have ever talked with anyone who went through a cold storm..not even snow..on the Nose, you will know that it is better to go fast.
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nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
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Mar 20, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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I think my sketchiest belay anchor was a thigh jam near the tom of Crest Jewel when I ran out of rope near the top. No pics :(
This one sucked, but it doesn't look that bad because I had a spot to sit:
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jabbas
Trad climber
phx AZ
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Mar 20, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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I just love the irony of the "Best belay budd" shot . Not even a slight recognition of the dude up on "hot". This thread is turning out to be golden !!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 20, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
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mucci:
Tarbuster, is that the start of Watkins?
Bingo!
The "Best Belay Budd" shot is from the slabs at the base of Watkins.
Not only is E paying no attention whatsoever, I'd already had a #6 stopper pop & slide down the rope and my pack strap had just busted ...
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Mar 20, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
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Has anyone else seen those big, thick, L-shaped aluminum hangers around the valley back around 1978-1980?
Uh...yeah. I got one at home from the bolt ladder route over at Mt. Diablo.
Both halves of it. Failed at the "bolt." 1975.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Mar 20, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Did they look like this?
Those are the motherf*#kers.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Mar 20, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
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Here's another sketchy belay high the Shield outside of Albuquerque, circa mid-1970s.
There was no belay.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Mar 20, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
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doesn't look like Royal's build to me.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
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This anchor on sugarloaf NM was pretty sketch.
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Henery
Trad climber
colorado springs, CO
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
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bump.. more please!
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Roper belaying Kor, Mickey's Beach circa 1960
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
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I love the expression on his face, guido!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Apr 11, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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On a trip to Cooks Wall a couple of weekends ago, I forgot my harness, so we used the grigri on a rock trick:
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jeepnphreak
Ice climber
Bzn, mt
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Apr 14, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
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Yes I trust my life to this guy, Best climbing partner and solid belay.
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