Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic |
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 20, 2013 - 01:03am PT
|
Couldn't find another post on this topic.
I'll dig out some pictures later...
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 01:30am PT
|
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 01:39am PT
|
love it!
great smile
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 01:56am PT
|
A stubby Leeper pounded into choss. What's not to like?
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 01:58am PT
|
Well..being a Leeper myself, I love it!
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:28am PT
|
I was always to frightened too pull out the camera in those situations...
But I did snap a photo looking down from a sketchy belay station on the Muir Wall. The bolt hangers were all L-shaped aluminum thingies, and they were all broken. Unfortuantely I don't have a photo of the actual broken hangers...
It was, by far, the most scared that I have ever been. Can you say panic?
Has anyone else seen those big, thick, L-shaped aluminum hangers around the valley back around 1978-1980?
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
the tip of god's middle finger
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 09:06am PT
|
|
|
matty
Trad climber
under the sea
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 10:35am PT
|
^^^great shot Nor!
|
|
Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 10:42am PT
|
Its actually the belayer that's sketchy, though I don't know if that's what you meant in your photo request...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 11:19am PT
|
This is how you're supposed to go climbing and belay. (above)
Modern climbers carry way too much sh!t and way too much sh!t in the heads.
Simple and elegant is the way .....
|
|
Rocky IV
Social climber
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 11:21am PT
|
It ain't technically a belay, but it 's like 5 feet from one, and I was freaked out A0ing off it
|
|
Leggs
Sport climber
Home away from Home
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 11:37am PT
|
Biotch, I'd take that belay any day. Great photo.
~peace
|
|
darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 11:44am PT
|
This picture was taken of me by my belayer!
"Only had you off for like, two seconds!"
I never even noticed!
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
|
Don't have a picture but my sketchiest belay was hanging off a single .5 cam (Occuns) on top of the BLack O in Red Rocks while belaying 2 seconds in the dark during a 60+ mph wind storm. While hastily trying to link the last 2 pitches I ran out of rope at the base of the final easy corner to the top with only 1 cam! No communitication, you could see anything, it was shenanigans for sure. Very dumb I must admit.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
|
Has anyone else seen those big, thick, L-shaped aluminum hangers around the valley back around 1978-1980?
Did they look like this?
The homemade aluminum hangers were probably Chouinard's, placed on the first ascent. The anchors got a helpful upgrade when Scott Cosgrove and Kurt Smith did The Shaft (with Greg Epperson). In the 90s there were still some original aluminum hangers left on the bolt traverse which goes out right from the big left facing corner where the Shield continues up left.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 02:29pm PT
|
Pulled out that green alien twice, but left it in so it looks like we have a 2 piece anchor. Stomped out a real nice ledge though :)
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
|
Yes, Vitaliy ... Stance is key!
|
|
Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
|
Just saw this in a GE Credit Card ad
Caption - dude, you belaying or trying to get laid
|
|
darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
|
looks like a cruxy mantel
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
|
Tarbuster, is that the start of Watkins?
|
|
BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
|
Werner said:
This is how you're supposed to go climbing and belay. (above)
Modern climbers carry way too much sh!t and way too much sh!t in the heads.
Simple and elegant is the way .....
This is a peeve of mine. I see people carrying racks that are three times as big as is needed from our aged experience.
I was not that great of a climber, and I sewed things up when I wasn't soloing or whatever.
Taking all that stuff slows you down. I was trained by and OCD efficiency expert, who would get on me if I didn't rack things exactly right, and it was a great skill to have.
Seriously. Why take two or even three pigs up the Nose. You will be slower and the Nose is exposed in crappy weather. If you have ever talked with anyone who went through a cold storm..not even snow..on the Nose, you will know that it is better to go fast.
|
|
nutjob
Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
|
I think my sketchiest belay anchor was a thigh jam near the tom of Crest Jewel when I ran out of rope near the top. No pics :(
This one sucked, but it doesn't look that bad because I had a spot to sit:
|
|
jabbas
Trad climber
phx AZ
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
|
I just love the irony of the "Best belay budd" shot . Not even a slight recognition of the dude up on "hot". This thread is turning out to be golden !!
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
|
mucci:
Tarbuster, is that the start of Watkins?
Bingo!
The "Best Belay Budd" shot is from the slabs at the base of Watkins.
Not only is E paying no attention whatsoever, I'd already had a #6 stopper pop & slide down the rope and my pack strap had just busted ...
|
|
KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
|
Has anyone else seen those big, thick, L-shaped aluminum hangers around the valley back around 1978-1980?
Uh...yeah. I got one at home from the bolt ladder route over at Mt. Diablo.
Both halves of it. Failed at the "bolt." 1975.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
|
Did they look like this?
Those are the motherf*#kers.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
|
Here's another sketchy belay high the Shield outside of Albuquerque, circa mid-1970s.
There was no belay.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Mar 20, 2013 - 08:38pm PT
|
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
|
doesn't look like Royal's build to me.
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
|
This anchor on sugarloaf NM was pretty sketch.
|
|
Henery
Trad climber
colorado springs, CO
|
|
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
|
bump.. more please!
|
|
Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
|
|
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
Roper belaying Kor, Mickey's Beach circa 1960
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
|
I love the expression on his face, guido!
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2013 - 01:16pm PT
|
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
|
|
|
Apr 11, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
|
On a trip to Cooks Wall a couple of weekends ago, I forgot my harness, so we used the grigri on a rock trick:
|
|
jeepnphreak
Ice climber
Bzn, mt
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
|
Yes I trust my life to this guy, Best climbing partner and solid belay.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
|
Single anchor - "Are you feeling lucky today, punk?"
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
|
|
|
rjstefani
climber
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
|
Girlfriend's feet on some off-route belay on the "steps" on Long's Peak. Awesome day.
|
|
treybomb
climber
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
|
|
|
carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
|
... natural...
|
|
duncan
climber
London, UK
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
|
Seat (possibly SEAT) belt. Riglos, Spain.
More Riglos:
|
|
D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:01pm PT
|
Here's an excerpt from last months rock and ice describing an amazing anchor Hayden Kennedy put together while first ascent'ing in the arrigetch peaks Alaska with tommy Caldwell and Corey Rich... Yikes!
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
|
|
|
Apr 24, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
|
Vitality,
I think yours wins,
I use to climb at Cooks With Nathan B all the time last decade~!!
Sh*t rock, but some good routes, fun FA's with the Nathan!!!
Once trundeled a block, after asking on a new route, I hit is brand new North Face Fleece, he was kinda pissed, still owe him a fleece!!!!!
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2013 - 01:06am PT
|
how dare you let belaying get in the way of chugging that beer!
|
|
jiff
Ice climber
colorado
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
|
At least she is knot rapping off of her gear loop.
|
|
Blanch
Trad climber
Media, pa
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2013 - 09:02pm PT
|
At Sandrock in AL ... this is a no sh!tter! We saw this and I immediately made my friends fake pose for a picture while I actually zoomed on the fine gentleman in the background .... Don't worry though, that 7 mm cord was girth hitched around a tree stump that when kicked wobbles and falls apart from termites. :)
|
|
jiff
Ice climber
colorado
|
|
|
Apr 25, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
|
jesus!
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
|
What the hell?!?
|
|
Crackslayer
Trad climber
Eldo
|
|
|
Apr 30, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
|
Don't worry though, that 7 mm cord was girth hitched around a tree stump that when kicked wobbles and falls apart from termites. :)
Damn! At least he is a big dude! That's darn sketch. The only sketchy belayers I have seen were at the gym.
The worst anchors for a belay I can think of are in the desert. To get back to the river after climbing barney rumble tower you have to rap off of a dead tree trunk half buried in the sand. Then there is the anchor on the first pitch of vision quest. It is a drilled pin equalized with cord that has a knot wedged in the crack. Easy to back up but if you decide to bail after the first pitch... There was a picture of the rap anchor off of the top of sparkling touch in climbing in magazine (2005 maybe?). I am sure someone has added cord to it since then but that doesn't add structural integrity to the deteriorating huecos of the rotten summit cap. And the worst anchors by far I have seen are on Argon tower in arches.
|
|
Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
|
|
Heh.
Curt
|
|
10b4me
Ice climber
Happy Boulders
|
|
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
Curt: About damn time the infamous "foot belay" joined the fray.
|
|
Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
|
I can add one to the Arrigetch count. There is a loose boulder block chockstone thing up high on pitch 12 or somewhere around there. We actually pulled it out a bit and slung it then put it back in. Only its in more of a crack facing upward then vertical. One of the guys came up and said "is that solid?" and gave it a tap. It moved a bit and I made sure it resettled before mentioning that it was better not to do that....
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
|
Thats pretty much my belay situation these days!
|
|
matisse
climber
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
|
We really need Crotch's infamous sling shot aid belay photo from Indian Cove
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
|
i was looking for that and couldn't find it :(
|
|
Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
|
If you don't wanna push an extra button for those links, here it is
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
|
yes!!!
the climber looks like uncle fester.
|
|
matisse
climber
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2013 - 07:56pm PT
|
there is so much to love about that photo
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
|
I've posted it before, but it fits in this thread:
Well, technically it was a rappel anchor and held some long sliders as the highest piece before bailing, but didn't actually hang out at this spot and belay a leader for upward progress.
|
|
surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
|
^on that theme - These are the guys that taught me how to climb:
Different belayers, just happen to have beards and sunglasses.
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
|
good vintage!
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
|
how many of you light up a spliff when you belay?
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
|
show us your sketchy belay!!
|
|
S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
|
...OR ANCHOR
|
|
yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
|
|
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
The truly sketchy ones haven't been photographed. Like yer gonna get yer camera out
when yer 2000' up a wall without an anchor?
JUST DO IT, BABY!
|
|
jonnyrig
climber
|
|
posted before. figured its appropriate here.
|
|
Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
|
|
Fortunately I had confidence in my climber.
|
|
thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
|
|
something about a dried up 2' high juniper.
|
|
Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
|
|
Eric is belaying John on Chingadera at Tahquitz.
John slips about 2 feet from a bolt expecting a tight little fall. But Eric who was sitting on the ground had chosen that moment to take a swig of water and didn't have his hands on the hip belay rope.
The rope starts wizzing around Eric who drops the bottle and grabs the rope but now it not a belay anymore but a head first pull through the scrub. The scrub and holding hard to the rope by Eric eventually stopped everyone.
|
|
jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
|
|
Nutjob almost pulled me off a climb with this hard jerk on the rope deal lol. Nice guy bad belayer HA HA!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 83 of total 83 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!