Long Day in Chamonix

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Messages 81 - 98 of total 98 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Jan 22, 2014 - 10:53pm PT
They can bolt it all they want. They still can't stop that grapefruit sized rock which misses your brain by 6 inches. We learned to go fast, put in minimal pro, and generally not dick around. It was a big learning experience

why Hemingway said mountain climbing is the real deal and not clipping bolts or sherpa'ing a pad around the Buttermilks
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Mar 28, 2014 - 02:53pm PT

Brèche West du col du Requin Voie Sorenson-Eastman

Great atmosphere...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Jul 8, 2014 - 10:35am PT

Mont Blanc: Body of Missing Climber Patrice Hyvert Found After 32 Years

http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/mont-blanc-body-missing-climber-patrice-hyvert-found-after-32-years-1455816
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 8, 2014 - 11:17am PT
I realized right at the end of that video that those guys didn't have packs!
They don't need water for a whole day? WTF?
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
That's a quality video of the Sorenson Eastman.
Hey Todd! You should check this out.
Much bonier than on the FA,I'll bet.

Awesome line.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 8, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
Rick, I think it's a different line. I just compared the digital copies you returned to me with the initial view up the Col and I think our line was to the left where there is no snow or ice these days.

The route is likely a rotten rock climb these days.

I hope summer is treating you well. I've been slacking on climbing but still trying to stay fit for when I get motivated.

Todd
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 6, 2014 - 11:20am PT

Mont Blanc region: Fête des Guides 2014 du Val Montjoie
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Aug 6, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
hey there say, ricky A and marlow... wow, and so many more1
thanks for all this neat stuff here...


wow, i love reading and seeing the old pics and having the links..
i missed this, the first other times it was up...
thanks for the bumps, folks...


love these 'classic mts' :)

edit:
will have to come back to study all this, lots lots to see!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 29, 2014 - 11:45am PT

Massif des Aiguilles Rouges
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 30, 2014 - 12:19pm PT

Vivagel Col Armand Charlet

Is there a connection between mountain guide Armand Charlet and Charlet Chamonix, later Charlet Moser? (Charlet Moser was in 2000 acquired by Petzl)
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 10, 2014 - 11:06am PT

Chamonix: Panorama pris de la Flegere

Panorama pris de la Flegere 1 - from left to right: Aig. Verte, Aig. d...
Panorama pris de la Flegere 1 - from left to right: Aig. Verte, Aig. du Dru, Aig. du Moine, Les Grandes Jorasses
Credit: Marlow
Panorama pris de la Flegere 2 - from left to right: Charmos, Grepon, A...
Panorama pris de la Flegere 2 - from left to right: Charmos, Grepon, Aig. de Blaitiere, Aig. du Plan, Aig. du Midi, Mont-Blanc, Dome du Gouter, Aig. du Gouter
Credit: Marlow
Hotel Croix de Flegere. Altitude 1877 metres. 11. Juil 1912. J. Ducrey...
Hotel Croix de Flegere. Altitude 1877 metres. 11. Juil 1912. J. Ducrey.
Credit: Marlow
carlos gallego

Ice climber
Spain
Oct 12, 2014 - 04:12am PT
... there was a time without "webs", except the pub, so... to find the right conditions, one had to be there... and that was not as easy as it seems nowadays.
Droites (Alps) in summer 1976...

Credit: carlos gallego

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 15, 2014 - 12:00pm PT

The Chamonix area on old postcards
Chamonix et la Chaine des Aiguilles
Chamonix et la Chaine des Aiguilles
Credit: Marlow
Village des Prez et le Mont Blanc
Village des Prez et le Mont Blanc
Credit: Marlow
La Mer de Glace prise de la Flegere
La Mer de Glace prise de la Flegere
Credit: Marlow
Aiguille du Dru et chemin de fer du Montenvers
Aiguille du Dru et chemin de fer du Montenvers
Credit: Marlow
Aiguille du Dru et Hotel du Montanvert
Aiguille du Dru et Hotel du Montanvert
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 15, 2014 - 12:04pm PT

Village et Glacier des Bossons
Village et Glacier des Bossons
Credit: Marlow
Chamonix vu du Glacier des Bossons - Route du Mont-Blanc
Chamonix vu du Glacier des Bossons - Route du Mont-Blanc
Credit: Marlow
Glacier Superieur des Bossons et Chamonix
Glacier Superieur des Bossons et Chamonix
Credit: Marlow
Pont de Glace au 2me Plateau du Glacier des Bossons
Pont de Glace au 2me Plateau du Glacier des Bossons
Credit: Marlow
Grotte du Glacier des Bossons et l'Aiguille du Midi
Grotte du Glacier des Bossons et l'Aiguille du Midi
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 15, 2014 - 12:06pm PT

Cheminee du Brevent
Cheminee du Brevent
Credit: Marlow
Ascension du Brevent et le Mont-Blanc
Ascension du Brevent et le Mont-Blanc
Credit: Marlow
Sommet du Brevent et le Mont Blanc
Sommet du Brevent et le Mont Blanc
Credit: Marlow
Chamonix et le Mont Blanc
Chamonix et le Mont Blanc
Credit: Marlow
Sommet du Mont Blanc et l'Observatoire Janssen
Sommet du Mont Blanc et l'Observatoire Janssen
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 19, 2014 - 11:33am PT

Speedriding: One Flight A Week #5 Chamonix, Aiguille du midi, face nord
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Dec 29, 2014 - 08:33am PT

Les Trois Pointes de l'Aiguille du Midi et la Gare superieure de Téléf...
Les Trois Pointes de l'Aiguille du Midi et la Gare superieure de Téléférique
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Apr 27, 2015 - 12:08pm PT

Naufraghi Del Monte Bianco - a tale of rescue and loss (English not spoken)


The "Vincendon and Henry tragedy"

In December 1956, together with his client Silvano Gheser, Bonatti attempted a winter ascent of the Pear Route on the Brenva side of Monte Blanc. During the approach they met two climbers, the French Jean Vincendon and the Belgian François Henry, en route to the nearby Brenva Spur, a climb of medium difficulty . Both parties started their respective climbs at 4am on Christmas Day in clear sunny conditions. After a few hours, ice conditions on Bonatti's climb deteriorated dangerously and he and Gheser were forced to seek a safe exit up the Brenva Spur where Jean Vincendon and François Henry were climbing. The two parties continued the climb on different, but parallel, lines. Close to the end of the climb at 4pm, Bonatti's party was around 100 metres (330 ft) higher. In the meantime with the approach of darkness a strong storm began. The two parties were forced to make an unplanned bivouac at 4,100 metres (13,500 ft), but could not keep up a vocal and visual link.

Bonatti, managed to pass the night unharmed but his companion Gheser started to suffer from frostbite to one foot. On the 26 December Bonatti and Gheser descended 100 metres (330 ft) lower to join the other party. The four climbers continued the climb together and arrived on the Brenva Col. From there two options were possible: descend directly to Chamonix crossing a section of unstable and avalanche prone snow or summit Mont Blanc and descend the normal route in order to find shelter in the Vallot Hut. Bonatti decided to take the second option, the safest but also the longest and more painful because it required the four men to gain 500 metres (1,600 ft) of elevation in a winter storm. Bonatti pushed the men to climb as fast as possible because he realised time was limited because Gheser's feet and hands were suffering from severe frostbite (later in the valley he would have some fingers amputated). They arrived at the Vallot Hut when night had already fallen.

In the meantime Vincendon's party decided, 200 metres (660 ft) from the summit of Mont Blanc, to turn back and head directly to Chamonix, but the arrival of darkness forced them to spend the night in a crevasse at 4,600 metres (15,100 ft). Bonatti and Gheser left the Vallot Hut on the 27 December, descended the Italian side of Mont Blanc and arrived to the Gonella Hut where on the 30 December a team of alpine guides arrived to rescue them.

Vincendon and Henry, in the meantime were totally exhausted and frostbitten and waited in the crevasse to be rescued but the bad weather prevented a successful operation. Multiple attempts to save the climbers were made (including an helicopter sent to rescue the party but crashing on the glacier) but they all proved useless. Both climbers died of cold after 10 days exposure. The bodies were recovered only in March 1957. The events that marked this tragedy triggered changes in mountain rescue techniques and procedures in France.
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