can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 10:05am PT
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Cosmic County, Blue Mountains OZ
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Mar 20, 2013 - 10:36am PT
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My recollection is that at the time when I first did Partition it was rated 5.7!!!!! in the Healy guide. From my memory 9- or even 9 sounds about right. Back more directly on topic---great photos. I love dihedrals, books, corners, grooves, diedres--whatever you want to call them. They are definitely some of my favorite climbs. Several classics I haven't seen mentioned on here yet are Recompense, Diedre, and the Book of Solemnity on Cathedral Ledge,NH, several pitches on both the VMCs on Cannon also in NH, the Great Dihedral on Poko in the "Dacks, Triple S on Seneca---the list goes on and on. I have lots of slides but sadly lack the ability to scan and post them---sigh.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 20, 2013 - 10:44am PT
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ydpl8s asked:
Tarbuster, that dihedral on Matterhorn Peak (assuming the CA one) looks like so much fun, what's it called and rated?
Yes, Matterhorn Peak North Arete. Northern Yosemite out of Bridgeport adjacent to the Sawtooth Ridge. 5.7
Sometimes when I post this photo, I make a false slip and say it's the enduro corner on Astroman. heh.
Though it's late 90s in the photograph, note the Robbins boots for approach, climb and descent, 8.6 mm rope, rack of nuts.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 20, 2013 - 10:46am PT
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Partition is an honest 9. the minus thing is just not being brave enough to buck the system and call the shots fair.. YMMV obviously.......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 20, 2013 - 10:49am PT
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Brass Nuts:
May we please get a brief synopsis of your experience on Romantic Warrior?
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KirbyC
climber
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Mar 20, 2013 - 11:08am PT
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Triple S at Seneca, as Alan mentioned. It's much less chossy than it looks and an excellent climb!
Though, all the pictures from out west makes me sad to be stuck on the east coast :( You guys win when it comes to dihedrals. And cracks. And tall pieces of rock. And towers. And mountains. Ok, just climbing in general.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 20, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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Seneca is a bit like a desert tower. So cool.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 20, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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The Adirondack stuff is actually looking pretty sweet.
Elusive stuff for those of us out West!
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rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 11:30am PT
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Mar 20, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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Tobin's Dihedral
Photo from SummitPost
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Mar 20, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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I think that was my (google-based) translation as well :) Amazing place & that face (Sourloti) is stunning. Unfortunately only one trip to date marred by much rain
EDIT IN:
Tarbuster - thank you very much. What a GREAT thread that is!! An out of this world place, man I'd love to go back someday.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 20, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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Similar thread over there on theMountain Project website, including pix of the Good Book and other famous dihedrals.
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TeleRoss
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 20, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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RonV
Trad climber
Placerville
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Mar 20, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Mar 20, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Tar - The Romantic Warrior story is short, it kicked my ass. I fudged leading the first 5.12 pitch (the pitch in the pic up thread) and decided if I couldn't do that one clean may as well go down and do something else since there are 2 more 5.12's and a 5.11++ higher up. It was quite difficult even on toprope before heading down... That pitch is really tough, very technical, tedious pro in spots, very obtuse sequential stemming and very few locks... I'd love to go back and try again someday if I had the time, fitness and body durability ;-)
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