Ice Fall; Butt Slide

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 81 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Theoriginalone

climber
confusion
Mar 18, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
TRADMANCLIMBS = pompas self important ass
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
A bitd Philly street saying about covers it: "f*#k around, f*#k around, lay around and bleed."
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 18, 2013 - 09:47pm PT
You can bash me as much as you want but the video does not lie. when you see a strong competent climber soloing grade 2 gully they do not look like that and they certainly do not go over backwards trying to catch falling ice.
ExtraBlue

Ice climber
the ford VT
Mar 18, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Tradman
A Is a badass climber.
B Is right.
Waide Lewis

Trad climber
Sacramento, ca
Mar 18, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
This is what happens to guys with lots of experience and over confidence...
Had 2 guys near Donner with 30 years experience die in ava's this year in the same weekend.It's easy to relaxed and over confident especially somewhere you have climbed numerous times before.. Watch your criticize...that might be you an some passive overconfident day..
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 19, 2013 - 07:21am PT
No one is immune to a fall. the thing that got me going is obviously A. the go pro. 95% of the time we see a go pro ice climbing video it is a wreck. the way he holds his tools is a bit shaky. Not strong and confident the way you need to be if you are going to solo. The leaning back and trying to catch the ice trick is counter to everything a solid climber does in that situation. BTW you can be experienced yet not solid. Yes it is not cool to bash someone who gets hurt but on the other hand once you post the go pro footage it's open season;)

stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 19, 2013 - 08:59am PT
Waide, I don't think that guy was overconfident. I think he was just shaky plain and simple. In a decade he might get to overconfident...if he lives. But statistically, yes, those are both ends of the accident spectrum.
hamersorethumb

Trad climber
Menlo Park, CA
Mar 19, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
I'm not an ice climber so I can't judge the climber's wisdom or foolishness but here is an interview with the climber in question. He does not come off as a "wanker" or fool, read it and judge for yourself.

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/helmetcam-slide-snowdonia-accident-llanberis-mountain-rescue
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:21pm PT
Reading that report completly confirms my assement of the accident. My apologys for being a wise ass about it. My poor choice of words/gallows humor rant was brought on entirely by the Go Pro factor.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Mar 19, 2013 - 01:23pm PT
once you post the go pro footage it's open season;)

Glad he is OK. Also glad he caught it on camera.

was brought on entirely by the Go Pro factor.

I read it as frustration with a culture more interested in showing their friends how bad ass they are, versus assessing an appropriate route based on skill and experience. But I got thick skin...



edit - woah, read the interview.

...Even though I’d been practising self arrest earlier in the month...

...If you had the day again, would you have done anything differently?
This is a difficult question. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I think I’d have preferred to have my technical axes rather than walking axes on the steeper harder ground.

Yup. The problem was definitely the axes. Return that sh#t to REI son, get yourself some 2013 Cobra's and a pair of five fingers!!!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 19, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
How can there be no mention in that interview/analysis of the fact that soloing on ice when other parties are above you is not the best choice of things to do on a winter day?

It's about as safe as soloing a loose rock climb below a bunch of other climbers.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
An analysis of the accident by a third party would be a lot more useful. ANAM-style anyone?


EXCEEDED ABILITIES

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:15pm PT


#1 Never climb ice under annother party. I you want to solo with your best budd that is fine but stay side by side. Do not let one climber get far enough ahead of the next climber to let the dinner plates pick up speed. If the climb bottlenecks at a difficult section find a sheltered place and anchor yourself in if possible. If not possible or nessicary to anchor then bury your axes, hunker down and hide behind your pack and helmet.

#2 The handeling of the axes is shaky. Not solid. you need to be solid to solo. Climbing for a great number of years is no gaurentee that you are solid. There are folks who have never lead anything harder than 4 who are solid. There are also kids who have led 5+ and are completly sketchy. Only alive through blind luck. There are folks who have climbed for decades who are sketchy and folks who have only climbed a few years who are solid. Solid is a state of mind combined with good technique and competence. Some have it. Some do not.


#3 treat the snow sections of a gully climb with as much if not more respect than the ice sections. Solid ice is your friend. Snow is the white death.

#4 never solo with unfamiliar equiptment. It can add a full grade or more to the climb.

#5 Never climb ice under annother party.

Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:17pm PT
I would add another rule:

#6 Never climb ice under another party.



and possibly also a seventh

#7 Never climb ice under another party.
Beardymike

Mountain climber
Bath
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
It's an awfully high horse you sit on isn't it. The guy made a mistake and got lucky. God forbid you ever make a similar mistake. This had nothing to do with strength. Parsley fern gully is shallow enough that you can stand in balance pretty much anywhere on it. It caught him by surprise and that really is the end of it. You can't always react the way the text book tells you to... Unless of course yourre you I.e. a superhero.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
The guy made a go pro video of his wreck and it went viral. WTH do you expect?

Accidents are rarely a single mistake. usually it is a combination of mistakes that cumulate in an accident.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
SuperTopo - where it isn't politically correct to post your opinion unless
it is Kumbaya Approved.

Tradman, didn't you know that?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
http://willgadd.com/category/blog/
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Mar 19, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
That interview vindicated tradmanclimb's 'harshiness.' Bloke still doesn't seem to have a handle on his fall!

DMT
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Mar 19, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Front pointing a Class 2 snow gully and trying to catch a falling ice chunk = ugly glissade. He was clearly out of his league.



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