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Jared Benik
Sport climber
Reno
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 9, 2013 - 03:16am PT
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anyone have any good suggestions of a great pair of crack climbing shoes?? besides the tc pros of course haha
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Miura lace ups
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Scarpa Techno's....unfortunately, they stopped making them. TC Pros are a good all around Trad shoe but not the best in narrow cracks.
Just started using Evolv Astroman's and they are pretty sweet!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
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I like my Miura lace ups for cracks.
The 5.10 Piton was recommended to me as being a good crack shoe
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Agreed about the Technos--love that shoe! I'm a little bit luckier in that I can wear either the men's or the women's shoe--the fit is the same, and while it's hard to find my size (euro) now in the women's shoe, I am having luck still getting it in the men's shoe! And they're on sale! Yippee!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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KC....where can you find Techno's? Scarpa is out of them.
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Sierra Trading post still has them. But perhaps not in your size....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I'm with Kenny & 10b4me & thousands of other ppl that care about themselves & have enough self respect to pick up a pair of muira lace ups for crack climbing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Isn't the toe profile on the Muria too high for tight hands cracks?
It also has a down turned toe. You want a totally flat shoe for cracks.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oh buddy, do I have an answer for you.
You know the Mythos? The Miuras? The Katanas? All made by Heinz Mariacher. One of the best on the planet.
He was hired by Scarpa several years ago and made this shoe
The Force is a bad ass momma. Fits like a Mytho with a wider toe box, it is lined in the front and has a SUPER low volume toe. It is an absolutely amazing thin to hand sized crack climbing shoe. I climb at lot out in Joshua Tree, where you are constantly edging in and out of the crack and sidestepping/scumming/doing funky bullshit so I typically climb out there with a Miura. But for splitters (mount woodson and the three splitters at Josh) the soft rubber and thin toe box (while being plenty wide for your average american foot) it absolutely ROCKS.
Here's the kicker - in March they discontinued it :O and replaced it with the Force X. Good news, Good news - the Force X is probably better, has a more comfy heel and is reinforced where the velcro meets the rand. Also XS Edge, which if you are needing a harder rubber (or are heavier or are on harder rock yadda yadda) that might be primo. The OTHER good news, is you can probably find just about any size of the OLD version on clearance from just about everyone.
If you have a local shop you like that carries scarpa call 'em up and see if they have the new force X or they got the old force's on closeout (they both retail for 129, vendors 'should' be closing the old ones for 80-99 out depending on how well they move them...). It is absolutely worth every penny, and below is an REI that might have them in stock (got it off scarpas website).
C - Recreational Equipment Inc.
2225 Harvard Way
Reno NV
USA 89502
(775)8289090
http://WWW.REI.COM
I'm a huge believer in the brand and their products, been the buyer for Nomad Ventures for Scarpa footwear the last 3 or so years :) hope this helps
Greg
(for sizing, I'd go 1/2 to 1 full size above your smallest Miura sizing - meaning the smallest miura you can cram on your foot, go a half or full up from that)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Acopa Legend, in my opinion the best all around shoe for Yosemite... cracks especially but also edging anything. If used as an "all day" shoe get them about 1 shoe size larger than your street shoe size.
Unfortunately, Acopa is out of business for quite some time, but there are still shoes out there new in some sizes, and also used...
...Barry recently resoled one of the pair I have with Stealth C4 and it climbs like a dream... Locker was holding a piece of Acopa rubber for me for a resole but I insulted him on another thread and screwed the pouch on that possibility...
More plentiful are Sportiva Kaukulators, which are terrific crack shoes and especially having them re-soled and re-randed with more modern rubber can be made fantastic... I've had a pair ever since they were first produced, recently buying them used from Scuffy_b who lurks on eBay and gets them... these are also no longer made.
I am partial to the blue model...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Ed have you checked out Croft's shoe?
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WBraun
climber
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That's Sue not Croft.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I just meant the shoe he made, the Astroman. Not sure who the climber in the photo is but it looks like she's having a blast while I'm sitting on the computer like a bozo. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I haven't yet tried that shoe...
...Sue is so bad ass!
(So is Peter...
Werner ain't bad either)
right now I have more climbing shoes in play than ever... so buying another pair seems a bit much... but maybe if Evolv gave me a pro-deal to gain entry to the geezer market I'd consider it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I sorta know that locker... but I was giving you a degree of freedom...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Moose said: What would you recommend for this crack?
Paint remover and a wire brush?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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And an abondoned building.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Donini, no :-)
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
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Mar 10, 2013 - 11:55am PT
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Jim the Slipper version of the Miura has a downturn, but the lace up doesn't.
IMO, the Miura is one of the best shoes I've owned.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
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Jim the Slipper version of the Miura has a downturn, but the lace up doesn't.
Hmmm...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Best that I've used for all-around cracks--and, I've got Kaukulators, Megas, Altias in high tops...
This shoe:
Excellent side rubber, with SIDE lacing, and a thin toe profile.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:22pm PT
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I have a brand new pair of Miuras in the box and they sure don't look like that
I am confused.
Paint remover, wire brush Moose isn't that a photo of that graffitied up crack at Dinosaur? Hence the paint remover and wire brush.
And Crack cocaine always seems a little better when done in an abondoned building with a couple stolen beers. I thought everyone knew that.
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
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Mar 10, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
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I have a brand new pair of Miuras in the box and they sure don't look like that
I agree Kenny, mine don't look like that either
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Jared Benik
Sport climber
Reno
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2013 - 12:31pm PT
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cool thanks for all the help!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Mar 31, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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The Miura lace-up is mildly down turned, and even then it flattens out very quickly. The photo above makes them look more agressive than they really are. I climbed the Rostrum in a pair, which was a little uncomfortable, but I hadn't sized them for long route comfort. For performance cragging, they are the bees knees until you want ankle protection.
For the most part though, I like a sloppy pair of slippers for all around cracks. My favorite is the Cobra. I like the softness and sensitivity for molding into pods and slots. I also like the Mythos, and it's probably my favorite for longer routes.
Overall, whatever you get I'd say to get a leather shoe, and find a pair where your pinky toe is comfortable.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 31, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
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I love my mythos! I keep buying them. It's all about what fits you really. If it doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good the shoe is technically. It's still gonna suck! It would be nice to have some ankle protection. I might try some tc pro's this year. If not, tape always works..
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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Mar 31, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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I agree with WML, TC pros resoled with 5.10 rubber, including the side rands. I put in a couple of extra lace holes near the front to tighten down the toe box. And a few shallow holes in the side rand to possibly help side grip. Some climbers say that 5.10 gets too soft on really hot rock. I can't say as I try to avoid really hot rock, except for the Rolling 5t0nes. 50 years, unbelievable.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Mar 31, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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For you Acopa fans, the shoes are still being made on a small scale (one at a time) by Ernesto, Acopa's head cobbler. As the name Acopa is not his to use, they are called "Diamond" now. I believe all the models are still being made with the original lasts and materials, including rubber. Some minor improvements have been made to the Legend. The toe profile is lower now, making them even better for thin cracks. The heel pocket is deeper as well. The Aztecs, my favorite, have a slightly beefier rand, but are otherwise unchanged. They are pricey - $200 plus shipping, but - when you consider the exceptional quality - worth it IMHO.
PM me if you're interested.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Boreal Ballet Golds. Amazing all rounder and great for cracks except the thinnest; the toe has a surprisingly small profile for a non-specialized shoe. Edges great and the laces go all the way to the toe for fine tuning, protects your ankles, burly, craftmanship, and can be resoled into forever (C4). Get mine from Mt Tools.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Urmas, amazing. A friend told me about this awhile back but for the life of me could not remember the name. Are all models 2 bills or just the legends?? I've got a bit of an Enzo fetish, which suck for any crack but finger cracks IMO but are amazing at many other things, mocs on steroids. Just broke out my last pair a week ago but would love to be able to score some again one day. Cheers.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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RyanD,
take those Enzos to Indian Creek. They're perfect there. Absolutely my favorite shoe for thin hands and finger cracks there.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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The guide tennies are hands down the best shoe for #3 and bigger cracks
maximum confort- maximum meat
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Gonzo that's what i hear & hope to try em out there one day, to be honest if i could wake up in the creek tomorrow i'd climb in a pair of high heels.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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By simple twist of luck, ignorance can equal bliss.....I happened to order a pair of Technos for $67.25 when they were on super sale! I climb alot of cracks and liked them WAY better than TC pro's for thinner ones and a good bit else. Bought two more pairs right away. Just broke out my second pair (great uppers for my foot) , get first resoled. Best crack shoe I've had, why take em off the market?
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Since we're tail kin' shoes here.........
I have been climbing in Sportiva Tradmasters for a while now, and still have a pair of the original 5.10 Huecos (the purple ones). A friend of mine just gave me a pair of 5.10 5x's. I have not used slipper type shoes before. (I know....I need to get out of the Stone Age). My question is this: Do all slippers fit correctly with your toes bunched up, or is that normal for only the downturned type of shoe? My guess is that the 5x is really a sport and boulder shoe rather than a long route shoe. Am I way off here?
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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RyanD, As far as I know, all models cost 2 Franklins. If you are interested in a particular model, PM me and I will forward the message. I don't have direct contact with Ernesto, and must go through a third party. No NA distribution has been set up yet. I think he would prefer to operate on a low key informal (low overhead) basis.
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D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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they just don't make them like they used to
these look comfy, and i hear the rubber was extra sticky, that's why they placed so little pro (...or was it because they had to hammer everything in)
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Five Ten Supermocc.
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