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Jared Benik
Sport climber
Reno
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 9, 2013 - 03:16am PT
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anyone have any good suggestions of a great pair of crack climbing shoes?? besides the tc pros of course haha
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Miura lace ups
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Scarpa Techno's....unfortunately, they stopped making them. TC Pros are a good all around Trad shoe but not the best in narrow cracks.
Just started using Evolv Astroman's and they are pretty sweet!
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Lost
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I like my Miura lace ups for cracks.
The 5.10 Piton was recommended to me as being a good crack shoe
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Agreed about the Technos--love that shoe! I'm a little bit luckier in that I can wear either the men's or the women's shoe--the fit is the same, and while it's hard to find my size (euro) now in the women's shoe, I am having luck still getting it in the men's shoe! And they're on sale! Yippee!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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KC....where can you find Techno's? Scarpa is out of them.
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kc
Trad climber
the cats
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Sierra Trading post still has them. But perhaps not in your size....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I'm with Kenny & 10b4me & thousands of other ppl that care about themselves & have enough self respect to pick up a pair of muira lace ups for crack climbing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Isn't the toe profile on the Muria too high for tight hands cracks?
It also has a down turned toe. You want a totally flat shoe for cracks.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oh buddy, do I have an answer for you.
You know the Mythos? The Miuras? The Katanas? All made by Heinz Mariacher. One of the best on the planet.
He was hired by Scarpa several years ago and made this shoe
The Force is a bad ass momma. Fits like a Mytho with a wider toe box, it is lined in the front and has a SUPER low volume toe. It is an absolutely amazing thin to hand sized crack climbing shoe. I climb at lot out in Joshua Tree, where you are constantly edging in and out of the crack and sidestepping/scumming/doing funky bullshit so I typically climb out there with a Miura. But for splitters (mount woodson and the three splitters at Josh) the soft rubber and thin toe box (while being plenty wide for your average american foot) it absolutely ROCKS.
Here's the kicker - in March they discontinued it :O and replaced it with the Force X. Good news, Good news - the Force X is probably better, has a more comfy heel and is reinforced where the velcro meets the rand. Also XS Edge, which if you are needing a harder rubber (or are heavier or are on harder rock yadda yadda) that might be primo. The OTHER good news, is you can probably find just about any size of the OLD version on clearance from just about everyone.
If you have a local shop you like that carries scarpa call 'em up and see if they have the new force X or they got the old force's on closeout (they both retail for 129, vendors 'should' be closing the old ones for 80-99 out depending on how well they move them...). It is absolutely worth every penny, and below is an REI that might have them in stock (got it off scarpas website).
C - Recreational Equipment Inc.
2225 Harvard Way
Reno NV
USA 89502
(775)8289090
http://WWW.REI.COM
I'm a huge believer in the brand and their products, been the buyer for Nomad Ventures for Scarpa footwear the last 3 or so years :) hope this helps
Greg
(for sizing, I'd go 1/2 to 1 full size above your smallest Miura sizing - meaning the smallest miura you can cram on your foot, go a half or full up from that)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Acopa Legend, in my opinion the best all around shoe for Yosemite... cracks especially but also edging anything. If used as an "all day" shoe get them about 1 shoe size larger than your street shoe size.
Unfortunately, Acopa is out of business for quite some time, but there are still shoes out there new in some sizes, and also used...
...Barry recently resoled one of the pair I have with Stealth C4 and it climbs like a dream... Locker was holding a piece of Acopa rubber for me for a resole but I insulted him on another thread and screwed the pouch on that possibility...
More plentiful are Sportiva Kaukulators, which are terrific crack shoes and especially having them re-soled and re-randed with more modern rubber can be made fantastic... I've had a pair ever since they were first produced, recently buying them used from Scuffy_b who lurks on eBay and gets them... these are also no longer made.
I am partial to the blue model...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Ed have you checked out Croft's shoe?
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WBraun
climber
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That's Sue not Croft.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I just meant the shoe he made, the Astroman. Not sure who the climber in the photo is but it looks like she's having a blast while I'm sitting on the computer like a bozo. :)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I haven't yet tried that shoe...
...Sue is so bad ass!
(So is Peter...
Werner ain't bad either)
right now I have more climbing shoes in play than ever... so buying another pair seems a bit much... but maybe if Evolv gave me a pro-deal to gain entry to the geezer market I'd consider it...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I sorta know that locker... but I was giving you a degree of freedom...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Moose said: What would you recommend for this crack?
Paint remover and a wire brush?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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And an abondoned building.
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