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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 30, 2016 - 03:59pm PT
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prancing on the flats is worthless
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 30, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
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Cross Training
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 30, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
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donini nails it. The Tetons kicked my arse.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Dec 30, 2016 - 06:29pm PT
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I personally find sea level running to be less helpful than focused weight training on the legs. Do sets of squats holding a kettlebell or other weight between your legs. I do sets of 30 with a 53lb bell. It has improved my mountain performance more than running ever did. I always thought mountain conditioning was all about cardio, not so sure anymore. Curious to hear other experiences.
Maybe I never ran far enough or fast enough, but I am with Donini, gotta do the hills to pump the legs, squats seem to simulate hill climbing. Great workout for skiing too.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 30, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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I usually get pretty CROSS when I train.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Dec 31, 2016 - 03:47am PT
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The closer fit you have with the actual activity, the better the results..
I must agree with Donini!
Scarpelli and I go at least twice a week to do a 700' vertical mountain side climb/hike out north of Blair. As there is snow now we carry/use ski poles but otherwise when bare, I make use of its boulder fields, hopping upward at one foot plant per boulder top non stop. Doing this is explosive single leg power training not to mention the balance training. This activity keeps your leg drive explosive strength strong for climbing.
Bob says this totally beats running stairs at the Stadium?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Dec 31, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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It helps to really enjoy whatever activity you are utilizing as training for climbing. For long stretches the alternate activities may have to substitute for climbing due to location and work.
Know what balance of power, strength, and endurance works best for you.
Do your climbing muscles and tendons need active recovery or time off?
Do you need to balance out any overuse issues that originated from climbing, especially if you climb in a gym extensively?
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Dec 31, 2016 - 09:21pm PT
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Find your weaknesses and develop them to a decent functional degree. Marathon distance maybe not that useful for the hours needed to get good. A solid time for a vertical km probably better.
Crossfit applies better when you do half the intensity and triple the sets.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 31, 2016 - 09:50pm PT
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99% of climbing is finger strength in proportion to body weight.
Yeah, well the other 99% is technique, and the third 99% is mental.
I've seen ripped guys with hands of steel who can't climb 5.11 because they don't understand how to. Simple as that. Of course if a climber is gifted with technique and mental power, then your statement carries more truth.
I'll never forget the day up at Courtright Reservoir (at Trapper Dome). A really fit, strong guy who obviously trained a lot for climbing had done several good routes on the face. Then he tried "Millions of Dead Cops". He failed again and again.
Scott Loomis, author of the route, was sitting at the base in the shade of a big tree. Finally the guy lowered off. He confronted Scott.
"You're a goddamn sandbagger. I can climb .10c! That is no .10c!!"
He stood there, veins bulging. Scott looked up at him quizzically. "It's a technical move, I can't help it if you don't know how to climb."
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