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Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
Anybody have some leads on routes in Sedona that have a decent approach, 6+ pitches, and some choss? Something other than Scenic Cruise on Gibraltar maybe? Looks like there's a few in the Oak Creek area, but they're more 5.10 than I'm really hoping for. Anything West of Downtown towards/in the Wilderness area? Looking for the full day adventure package.
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 6, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Umm...I might be able to come up with something.

Gimme a little while...

You could always just buy our Sedona guide and look for yourself:

http://www.amazon.com/Sedona-Rocks-Climbers-Guide-Volume/dp/1453727884
bob

climber
Mar 6, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
I have to second Mr. E That book will get all of what you ask for.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
Plenty of new lines just waiting for you as well.
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Got a copy the day it came out, Mr. E.
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:02pm PT
Coyote Tower on Courthouse might fit the bill, as well as Earth Angel.

Thanks, Bob and giegs.
bob

climber
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Earth Angel. Goliath MACE! Oh the goodies. Those three seem to fit.
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
Mace-FOR SURE! Streakers Spire... well that's not 6+ pitches (but if you do the direct start, I think it's 5 and some sketch choss runout situation, there's a great climb called Happy Endings, I think it's 4 pitches with others around that are cool-look it up in Erik & Blooms book. Ummm.... Earth angel is awesome-its 10a (2pitches are 10a) and definitely has some choss for you-let me know your thoughts on P2 Chimney ;-) and I've heard good stuff about Made in The Shade... OH, how could I forget Dr. Rubos Wild Ride??? YES! Oak Creek Spire, that's a good one-though I never jumped across. It has such a great 5.9 long crack pitch. Then there's Mars Attacks (I've done that too many times), but it's still cool-4pitches. HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
Mostly what I was expecting. Thanks for the route suggestions! I haven't done a couple of them yet. Sounds like some exploring is in my future.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
Which one's haven't you done yet?
How moderate are you looking for?
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
Goliath, Earth Angel, and Coyote Tower. Edit: just saw Dr. Rubos - That's next on the list.

Ideally I'd like fun/interesting 5.9 or easier that covers a lot of terrain. The longer and easier, the better, honestly. Just looking for fun days out more than anything. I'm not much of a trad leader once the going gets tough.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
I'll second or third or fourth Earth Angel. Long approach, some choss and totally doable if you are good with a couple pitches of .10a or so. I remember it being pretty well protected with modern gear. Or, uh, well protected in that some gear fits the cracks but not necessarily that it would actually hold a fall. If you climb there you know the gig.

Oak Creek Spire is shorter but the jump makes it pretty full value. The jump should not be missed (in more ways than one!!11).
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 6, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
I'm sure you know of Queen Victoria-very moderate except for one 5.9 span of 5ft.
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 6, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Hey, and sticking to the 5-6 pitch thing (over 4 the number of routes get a LOT smaller): if you don't mind doing a little A0/A1 - Wild,Wild West is mostly 5.9 and low .10 with the .11 bits being mind-numbing exposure at the top with bolts close enough to hang your way through. Choss is readily available on the first pitch.
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
So the .11 is basically a sport pitch?

Sold.
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Yep, and the 5.9 second pitch is really good. The first pitch is a bit spicy, but bolted.

Also, there are three different finishes, so it gets confusing at the end of the 2nd traverse pitch. Go all the way to the right, then lead out around the corner with the wild finish (see the cover shot on the guide).

The other finishes are weird.

Have fun!
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 8, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
Yes, that second 5.9 pitch-a beauty-so good!
giegs

climber
Tardistan
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Now I just need all this damn snow to go away and for things to dry out...
kole

climber
Mar 10, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
No one's mentioned the original route on Coffee Pot yet. It's a fun adventure that goes in all directions, even up once in a while. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/original-route/105804383

I haven't done it, but the north face of the Acropolis looks like a long easyish bushwack/climb.

Or you could do this one. :-)
http://www.thetrailbook.com/2012/12/01/thanksgiving-sedona-climbing-day-number-4/



Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Mar 10, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
Well Giegs, hopefully it'll dry up by tomorrow or the next day... s/b heating up. 90 in the valley by Friday is the rumor... Hope to hear what you end up doing...

Kole, thanks for those links, never done either!!
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