| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
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Anybody have some leads on routes in Sedona that have a decent approach, 6+ pitches, and some choss? Something other than Scenic Cruise on Gibraltar maybe? Looks like there's a few in the Oak Creek area, but they're more 5.10 than I'm really hoping for. Anything West of Downtown towards/in the Wilderness area? Looking for the full day adventure package.
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bob
climber
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I have to second Mr. E That book will get all of what you ask for.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Plenty of new lines just waiting for you as well.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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Got a copy the day it came out, Mr. E.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Coyote Tower on Courthouse might fit the bill, as well as Earth Angel.
Thanks, Bob and giegs.
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bob
climber
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Earth Angel. Goliath MACE! Oh the goodies. Those three seem to fit.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Mace-FOR SURE! Streakers Spire... well that's not 6+ pitches (but if you do the direct start, I think it's 5 and some sketch choss runout situation, there's a great climb called Happy Endings, I think it's 4 pitches with others around that are cool-look it up in Erik & Blooms book. Ummm.... Earth angel is awesome-its 10a (2pitches are 10a) and definitely has some choss for you-let me know your thoughts on P2 Chimney ;-) and I've heard good stuff about Made in The Shade... OH, how could I forget Dr. Rubos Wild Ride??? YES! Oak Creek Spire, that's a good one-though I never jumped across. It has such a great 5.9 long crack pitch. Then there's Mars Attacks (I've done that too many times), but it's still cool-4pitches. HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
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Mostly what I was expecting. Thanks for the route suggestions! I haven't done a couple of them yet. Sounds like some exploring is in my future.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Which one's haven't you done yet?
How moderate are you looking for?
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 08:25pm PT
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Goliath, Earth Angel, and Coyote Tower. Edit: just saw Dr. Rubos - That's next on the list.
Ideally I'd like fun/interesting 5.9 or easier that covers a lot of terrain. The longer and easier, the better, honestly. Just looking for fun days out more than anything. I'm not much of a trad leader once the going gets tough.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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I'll second or third or fourth Earth Angel. Long approach, some choss and totally doable if you are good with a couple pitches of .10a or so. I remember it being pretty well protected with modern gear. Or, uh, well protected in that some gear fits the cracks but not necessarily that it would actually hold a fall. If you climb there you know the gig.
Oak Creek Spire is shorter but the jump makes it pretty full value. The jump should not be missed (in more ways than one!!11).
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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I'm sure you know of Queen Victoria-very moderate except for one 5.9 span of 5ft.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Hey, and sticking to the 5-6 pitch thing (over 4 the number of routes get a LOT smaller): if you don't mind doing a little A0/A1 - Wild,Wild West is mostly 5.9 and low .10 with the .11 bits being mind-numbing exposure at the top with bolts close enough to hang your way through. Choss is readily available on the first pitch.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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So the .11 is basically a sport pitch?
Sold.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Yep, and the 5.9 second pitch is really good. The first pitch is a bit spicy, but bolted.
Also, there are three different finishes, so it gets confusing at the end of the 2nd traverse pitch. Go all the way to the right, then lead out around the corner with the wild finish (see the cover shot on the guide).
The other finishes are weird.
Have fun!
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Yes, that second 5.9 pitch-a beauty-so good!
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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Now I just need all this damn snow to go away and for things to dry out...
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Mar 10, 2013 - 11:54pm PT
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Well Giegs, hopefully it'll dry up by tomorrow or the next day... s/b heating up. 90 in the valley by Friday is the rumor... Hope to hear what you end up doing...
Kole, thanks for those links, never done either!!
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| Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic |
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