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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Continuing the walk down memory lane I began with the A Fine Piece thread I started a few weeks ago (and to which I gave a massive update last night), I just got another few sheets of slides back from the scanner and decided to make a similar post about the first ascent of Shaken, Not Stirred that Jim Donini and I made on the south face of the Mooses Tooth in 1997.
Amongst an outrageous ton of climbing we did together in the middle and late 1990s, three first ascents really stand out in my mind. None of them were cutting edge in terms of difficulty, but all three were truly world-class beautiful. Sophia Loren kind of beautiful. (The Old Smuggler's Route and A Fine Piece in Patagonia and Shaken, Not Stirred in Alaska).
There were three others in Patagonia that were merely garden-variety pretty good. Jennifer Aniston kind of pretty good. ;-)
I think Shaken, Not Stirred has had tons of traffic in the last 12 years, and I encourage people to add their own photos and stories to this thread.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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I'll post a few photos of the ascent Steve Farrand and I made in March of 2001 when I get a chance. Great Route!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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so what's the season for this route these days -- April? Even though the FA (for neighboring Ham and Eggs) was made in mid-July I'm guessing anything from June onward is bogus
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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We had excellent conditions in March
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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Please do, JohnKelley!
We had a great ride, and I've been enjoying revisiting the photos and memories 15-odd years down the line.
It still floors me that that thing hadn't been noticed prior to the spring of 1997.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 10:31am PT
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Dec 31, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Dec 31, 2015 - 08:21pm PT
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Fun thread - I missed this when you posted this several years ago, Greg. Thanks to Jim Donini and you for establishing this route! Such great fun.
I posted some pics in a TR ... http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mooses-Tooth-Ham-and-Eggs-and-Shaken-Not-Stirred/t11971n.html
Up-thread a few posts, ms55041 asked about best time of year to climb there. Depends a lot on luck, but we got lucky in early to mid May 2013 with crowds, climbing conditions, and weather. My partner from that trip was back in the area in mid to late April this year and got cold, lousy weather conditions. Big effort to get up Ham and Eggs and they didn't try Shaken, Not Stirred.
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Gregory Crouch
Social climber
Walnut Creek, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2016 - 06:59pm PT
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Cool pics, JohnKelley! Looks like you had a great ride.
And believe me BMcC, it was my pleasure! ;-)
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Getting ready to head up the glacier most people fly over now. Can't remember the name? We approached from the Sheldon Hut.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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BBST
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