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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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when did whining like a bitch about stupid sh#t like chalk become politically correct?
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S cole
Social climber
Urban hell
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My concern about those who don't use chalk is the nasty black rubber streaks left by the shoes of falling purists. Rubber is forever, you can scrub and scrub, but you will still have black marks. On some of the lesser types of stone, repeated attempts by chalkless purists can leave enough rubber that footholds are polished beyond belief.
On certain rock types, i.e. sandstones, chalk builds up quickly, while on real rock(granite)one rain and it's history. When I climb in an area where the local ethic precludes the use of chalk I leave the bag behind, although I find my self reaching for it all the time, but where it is accepted, I average a block a day.
I began as a purist myself. A dab of dirt from the base of a climb was plenty, and anyone who used it was a soulless monster. That was all good until I was unable to do the Bate's Problem on Columbia Boulder after many attempts. Someone had dropped a little nugget of Endo gold at the base. I crumbled the nug between my fingers, and sent the problem on my first try with chalk, I never looked back.
If its good enough for J.G, its good enough for me.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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I can live with chalk, what I find distressing is tick marks of chalk to identify holds. Part of the enjoyment of climbing is figuring out the route as you climb, it's not suppose to be climbings version of paint by numbers. The use of chalk alone depending on the area still leaves some route finding to do as many false holds are chalked up too. The tick marks suck and should be removed after finishing the climb otherwise there is no such thing as an onsight! One alternative to chalk tick marks is called the brain, it's an amazing thing.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Chalk is an ethics issue because it has an environmental impact
No where near the environmental impact that simply being at the crag has. To reduce your environmental impact, I suggest YOU stay home and just mentally climb everything.
when did whining like a bitch about stupid sh#t like chalk become politically correct?
wurd
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Kind of like the bolting debate that goes nowhere. However, if one must use chalk Patrick Edlinger sure made using it look beautiful. http://utube.com/watch?v=2kxpYNwakOU&feature=related The most beautiful climber beautifully executing every single move right down to how he chalks his hands.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Cracks me up how it makes a lot of people chomp and stamp, foam at the mouth, the veins pop out and their face turn red when you bring up the issue, but chalk is trash. It is visual defacement of the rock. More in some places, less in others. Then all the diversionary and straw man arguments come out.
Doesn't mean I'm morally superior for not using it, doesn't mean I haven't use it a lot (to the elbows; loved those Strawberry Mountain bags), doesn't mean chalking isn't fun, doesn't mean I might not use a little some time in the future. But, it is littering and it is an environmental and possible access issue. And, other than a very circumscribed kind of use, is not good outdoor ethics.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Cracks me up that you assume others are chomping, stomping, and foaming just because they disagree with what you THINK is a valid argument against using chalk.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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That cracks me up!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Cracks me up how it makes a lot of people chomp and stamp, foam at the mouth, the veins pop out and their face turn red when you bring up the issue, but chalk is trash
Oh my . . . I didn't think it showed! I'm so embarrased.
;>)
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Very nice sense of humor, Mr. Gill, but you most definitely fit in the more civil and reasonable category.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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"...most commercial gyms and fitness clubs ban the use of weightlifting chalk."
http://skinnybulkup.com/weight-lifting-chalk/
Two things: I've always been and always will be against using chalk on climbing routes. Boulders and smallish crags, I tend to ignore it, it's useless to rail.
I would shoot the first person I see with colored chalk. And piss on his grave. That's not gonna ever happen, right? Don't tell me.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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I was out of town and came back to (mostly) a thoughtful discussion of the subject. Yes, there were a few flames and barbs, but at least it wasn't about politics, guns or boobs :-) Sorry if I offended anyone for starting a thread about something that is, depending on your point of view, not so easy to hang on to. Cheers!
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ruppell
climber
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Thanks to jogill and Rgold for stepping up to the plate and giving the history of chalk use in climbing. I still have tons of respect for both of you chalkers. lol I'd like to leave this thread with a quote from Micheal Reardon that has stuck with me since the first time I heard it.
"Onsight, barefoot, chalkless, soloing is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Chalk was ok.
However it gave me pause when I first saw someone with a toothbrush dangling from their tool belt scrubbing holds on the way up.
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J Q
Social climber
Boulder, Co
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If only. If ever there were a group think delusion of mythic proportions, this is it.
Yep, pretty much every "ethic" in climbing is a good example of group think reaching mythic proportions, including yours.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Chalk is only acceptable to climbers, to everyone else it is an eyesore.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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There is no limit to the human ability to rationalize (and yes, I include myself).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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These guys have a way of framing an argument persuasively.
1975 Chouinard Equipment catalog.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Bump for a bag of birdsh#t...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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May 26, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
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When I first started climbinig in 1970 (high school), Phil Gleason and Phil Haney (Gill proteges) used to carry a block of chalk around in a tupperwear container. Richard Harrison and I got a ditty bag and cut a hole in it and strung it on a shoulder sling, and this moved to our waist, lashed there with hero loop (1/4 inch) webbing, and finally, accessory cord cinched with a square knot.
We were carrying those chalk bags on routes as early as 1971 out at Josh and up in Idyllwild. Bud Couch was also using a chalk bag at that time if I remember correctly. Owing to the dearth of climbers back then, the chalk build-up never got too grave save for places like Stony Point. And man, it got ugly out there!
I think there should be periodic efforts to clean that sh#t up.
JL
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