How did chalk become politcally correct?

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 131 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Byran

climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
Mar 5, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think chalk has much of an environmental impact. It's my understanding that the stuff is pretty benign, and it's used in relatively small quantities. What it has is a visual impact, as experienced by other human beings. Personally, I think a boulder field or crag covered in chalked holds looks great. It signifies that the routes are clean and well-traveled, not just a pile of choss and munge. Others obviously don't appreciate the aesthetics of chalked lines.

But I would say that it's a good idea to take it easy on the stuff in areas where there is a lot of non-climber traffic and it could possibly strain climber relations with land managers. I always cringe a little when I see the Yosemite Lower Falls Amphitheater caked with chalk in the fall.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Mar 5, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
OH NOOOOO!
The White Cliffs of Dover are an environmental DISASTER!!!!


:)
Chango

Trad climber
norcal
Mar 5, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
All this chalk talk mock makin me knock back black bock
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 6, 2013 - 06:46am PT
when did whining like a bitch about stupid sh#t like chalk become politically correct?
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:06am PT
I will say that the chalk at the beginning of the Ironman Traverse at the Milks seems to have bonded to the rock.

Brush the holds more often, people!
S cole

Social climber
Urban hell
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:12am PT
My concern about those who don't use chalk is the nasty black rubber streaks left by the shoes of falling purists. Rubber is forever, you can scrub and scrub, but you will still have black marks. On some of the lesser types of stone, repeated attempts by chalkless purists can leave enough rubber that footholds are polished beyond belief.

On certain rock types, i.e. sandstones, chalk builds up quickly, while on real rock(granite)one rain and it's history. When I climb in an area where the local ethic precludes the use of chalk I leave the bag behind, although I find my self reaching for it all the time, but where it is accepted, I average a block a day.

I began as a purist myself. A dab of dirt from the base of a climb was plenty, and anyone who used it was a soulless monster. That was all good until I was unable to do the Bate's Problem on Columbia Boulder after many attempts. Someone had dropped a little nugget of Endo gold at the base. I crumbled the nug between my fingers, and sent the problem on my first try with chalk, I never looked back.

If its good enough for J.G, its good enough for me.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Mar 6, 2013 - 10:41am PT
I can live with chalk, what I find distressing is tick marks of chalk to identify holds. Part of the enjoyment of climbing is figuring out the route as you climb, it's not suppose to be climbings version of paint by numbers. The use of chalk alone depending on the area still leaves some route finding to do as many false holds are chalked up too. The tick marks suck and should be removed after finishing the climb otherwise there is no such thing as an onsight! One alternative to chalk tick marks is called the brain, it's an amazing thing.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 6, 2013 - 12:09pm PT
Chalk is an ethics issue because it has an environmental impact

No where near the environmental impact that simply being at the crag has. To reduce your environmental impact, I suggest YOU stay home and just mentally climb everything.


when did whining like a bitch about stupid sh#t like chalk become politically correct?

wurd
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Mar 6, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
Kind of like the bolting debate that goes nowhere. However, if one must use chalk Patrick Edlinger sure made using it look beautiful. http://utube.com/watch?v=2kxpYNwakOU&feature=related The most beautiful climber beautifully executing every single move right down to how he chalks his hands.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 6, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
Cracks me up how it makes a lot of people chomp and stamp, foam at the mouth, the veins pop out and their face turn red when you bring up the issue, but chalk is trash. It is visual defacement of the rock. More in some places, less in others. Then all the diversionary and straw man arguments come out.

Doesn't mean I'm morally superior for not using it, doesn't mean I haven't use it a lot (to the elbows; loved those Strawberry Mountain bags), doesn't mean chalking isn't fun, doesn't mean I might not use a little some time in the future. But, it is littering and it is an environmental and possible access issue. And, other than a very circumscribed kind of use, is not good outdoor ethics.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Mar 6, 2013 - 06:48pm PT
Cracks me up that you assume others are chomping, stomping, and foaming just because they disagree with what you THINK is a valid argument against using chalk.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
That cracks me up!
Credit: Mark Force
jogill

climber
Colorado
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Cracks me up how it makes a lot of people chomp and stamp, foam at the mouth, the veins pop out and their face turn red when you bring up the issue, but chalk is trash

Oh my . . . I didn't think it showed! I'm so embarrased.


;>)
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 6, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Very nice sense of humor, Mr. Gill, but you most definitely fit in the more civil and reasonable category.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 6, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
"...most commercial gyms and fitness clubs ban the use of weightlifting chalk."

http://skinnybulkup.com/weight-lifting-chalk/

Two things: I've always been and always will be against using chalk on climbing routes. Boulders and smallish crags, I tend to ignore it, it's useless to rail.

I would shoot the first person I see with colored chalk. And piss on his grave. That's not gonna ever happen, right? Don't tell me.

ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
I was out of town and came back to (mostly) a thoughtful discussion of the subject. Yes, there were a few flames and barbs, but at least it wasn't about politics, guns or boobs :-) Sorry if I offended anyone for starting a thread about something that is, depending on your point of view, not so easy to hang on to. Cheers!
ruppell

climber
Mar 7, 2013 - 12:47pm PT
Thanks to jogill and Rgold for stepping up to the plate and giving the history of chalk use in climbing. I still have tons of respect for both of you chalkers. lol I'd like to leave this thread with a quote from Micheal Reardon that has stuck with me since the first time I heard it.

"Onsight, barefoot, chalkless, soloing is climbing. Everything else is a compromise."
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Mar 7, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Chalk was ok.

However it gave me pause when I first saw someone with a toothbrush dangling from their tool belt scrubbing holds on the way up.
J Q

Social climber
Boulder, Co
Mar 7, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
If only. If ever there were a group think delusion of mythic proportions, this is it.

Yep, pretty much every "ethic" in climbing is a good example of group think reaching mythic proportions, including yours.

patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Mar 7, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
Chalk is only acceptable to climbers, to everyone else it is an eyesore.
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