How did chalk become politcally correct?

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Reeotch

Trad climber

4 Corners Area

May 26, 2013 - 05:48pm PT

Yep, I always do a bit of brushing when I'm out at Gunsmoke . . .

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

May 26, 2013 - 06:37pm PT

jogill

climber

Colorado

May 26, 2013 - 06:44pm PT

The problem is not the chalk but too many climbers!!

;>)

mechrist

Gym climber

South of Heaven

May 26, 2013 - 06:58pm PT

Personally, I like it and think it should stay

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

May 26, 2013 - 06:59pm PT

The problem with it is that, while climbers are quite homogeneous, rock types vary considerable. The result of chalk use on slick, white granite or the stuff at Devils Lake is one thing; on Southern sandstone it is quite another.

cliffhanger

Trad climber

California

May 27, 2013 - 11:20am PT

One possible alternative is wood ash. It works very well, is closer to the rock in color, and may wash off easier. Plus it's free.

ydpl8s

Trad climber

Santa Monica, California

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2016 - 05:32pm PT

time to re-stir the pot ….. bump!

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 17, 2016 - 05:51pm PT

Chalk has always been cool

nature

climber

Boulder, CO

Feb 17, 2016 - 05:58pm PT

After shitting on ropes for completely misguided reasons pretty much anything goes.

BruceHildenbrand

Social climber

Mountain View/Boulder

Feb 17, 2016 - 06:07pm PT

It was Bridwell with that mid-70's photo of him leading Butterfingers. The dude was/is way cool!

Flip Flop

climber

Earth Planet, Universe

Feb 17, 2016 - 07:34pm PT

John Gill

In a post-Edlinger post chalk era. It's a flow thing.

rockanice

climber

new york

Feb 18, 2016 - 08:51am PT

As a young kid in 1972 I climbed with Mark Birmingham in NY who denounced chalk use as a weakness. It was "white courage" and as I was the disciple, I diligently avoided it's use to emulate the master. However, much later, as the master was long gone (in Colorado), about ten years later, someone made me a present of a chalk bag in the Gunks, and I lost my soul. Even in recent years, I have still been chided by Mark for having been seduced. Yup, I'm weak, but gotta love that white courage, no turning back for this apostate

rmuir

Social climber

From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.

Feb 18, 2016 - 01:12pm PT

After Those Damned Americans® (Gib Lewis, Rick Accomazzo, and Robs Muir) did an early, fall-free repeat of the Great Wall on Clogwyn back in 1977, Ken Wilson—the Editor of Mountain Magazine—asked his first question of us:

"So, did you use chalk?"

"Sheesh. Of course not! One can't be doing the hard routes without it."

"Too bad. I could have made you stars!"

tolman_paul

Trad climber

Anchorage, AK

Feb 18, 2016 - 01:40pm PT

Perhaps the thread should have been titled how can climbers concede the oxymoron of their concern for protecting wilderness with slathering chalk over every hold of a route? Face it, heavily chalk slaked routes are ugly.

The reality is we're selfish and playing our climbing game is so important to us that we justify away lines of shiny bolt hangers and chalk slaked holds.

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Feb 18, 2016 - 02:05pm PT

Good story Dingus....

I don't use much chalk when its nice and 60 out BUT at Stoney in the dead of July.... cake it on.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Feb 18, 2016 - 03:55pm PT

I find that it keeps your hands warmer in cold cracks when there is snow on the ground....

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Feb 18, 2016 - 04:30pm PT

The new Jtree guide has a Metolius Super Chalk ad in it with some dude climbing on a completely chalked up mess of a rock. I found it to be in very poor taste.