Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 3, 2013 - 09:31pm PT
Just so there's no confusion. I love me some sport clipping, in addition to other rope shenanigans.
*Well protected means you don't die.
*You get to fly! (for free!)
*Crazy cool climbing moves you won't get, or try, on death routes.
*Everyone else has done the routes so you get to share the experience and discuss the nuances.
*Usually there are places to drop gear without getting PO, Ticks, etc.
*You get strong!
What I'm discovering in my most recent forays into sport climbing is how long the fall needs to be before you get the "stomach sinking" feeling. Seems like about 15' into the fall is about where you get enough velocity.
I was taking some intentional falls this weekend, climbing through the crux of the project, up to the next bolt where the hard climbing is over, and not clipping that next bolt, just calling for some extra slack and jumping off. 10' is over so quick, it barely registers, 5' isn't much more than slumping onto the rope. They start feeling like a proper fall at about 15'.
I've climbed with maybe a dozen or so people that talk sh#t about sport climbing but won't climb a move harder than 5.7 unless they have a piece clipped above their head...
You should climb in California... less. Walk by any popular crag in Joshua Tree close to the road on a given sunny weekend to see some pretty plebeian epics. Once saw someone get rescued on a 5.2 at Josh, got halfway up and decided this rock climbing wasn't for him so had his buddy untie and scramble above to lower a rope.
The best was the ledge he got stuck at, it was HUGE and just above a 4th class chimney (which wigged him out). So, while waiting for the rescue, he actually turned around, faced out, and sat down on the big ledge, waiting with a frown worthy of a British dignitary. Looked more like Time-Out than rock climbing.
Hmmmm...got a rental in Yosemite West for the month of May, i'm doomed. By the way, i would be the last old school trad climber to diss sport climbing.....i think it's way fun.
Nice!!! I am living in Idyllwild that month or I'd beg to join you! Where you goin' in June? I plan on being in the valley for the bulk of that month... :P
Nice :) Been needing to go back there and try more routes, I've only done Yggdrasil (Red Dihedral) as a day hike, positive vibes looks great and so does Sun Spot. Hopefully in the next 4 months I don't get injured, should be good enough to try those routes!
TORK!!! WOOT! That really is one of the funnest climbs and formations I've been on.
gdavis,
"I've climbed with maybe a dozen or so people that talk sh#t about sport climbing but won't climb a move harder than 5.7 unless they have a piece clipped above their head..."
I don't think we've climbed together. How do you know me so well? heh
bitd, if ya didn't have the balls to do something, ya waited until ya did. BUT, today, if it was my kid (or grandson) that was learning to climb, i would say "HELL YA..."! Using yer head, and keeping it safe, is SMART (imo). And I would now say FU to anyone that put somebody down for doing something as simple as ^ that. It's all about having fun. And no damage was done to the route/environment.
Let us know!