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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Thanks John. I did not know rope climbing had fallen out of favor. You must have been in your fifties when I read that you had 'detached' one of your biceps! It sounded traumatic and I've always wondered what you did. Maybe it was not as bad as it sounded - it made the climbing news though! Care to elaborate and give us old timers some advice there?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Where is the two arm pullup program?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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Actually, jokes notwithstanding, the tubing, or FFD, is the ideal way for people who can't do a single two-arm pullup to build up to them. It is also perfect for rehabbing injuries with a pullup motion that is less than body weight.
By the way, some folks claim you can get the same effect from lat pulldowns. I've tried that and don't believe it. The tubing allows you to engage all of your body the way it is used in a pull up. The lat pulldown stabilizes too much of your midsection.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Back in 1987, when I was 50, I was repeating a very short boulder problem, just a foot or so off the ground, when my foot slipped off a tiny hold. I had just reached up over the slight overhang to a big jug and should have simply dropped off, but I hung on by reflex and as my body twisted the right biceps were pulled off the forearm. It didn't really hurt - it turned out that there had only been scar tissue holding it on before. I had it reattached, then decided that there were probably other such places in my body and I should stop trying harder problems and return to my original love of adventure climbing - soloing easy and moderate longer routes I had established in obscure areas. The next 20 years were the most enjoyable of my climbing career. Didn't miss bouldering at all.
;>)
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Your remark about Dylan Thomas re drinking of alcohol spurred some creativity and I happened on the wickedPDA look at your time of 3.4 from a sitting start up to twenty feet.
Zounds! Cranking like that, you got to know your limits or you won't be doing it long.
We had some Filipino laddies who made short work of the rope climb in our inter-company games in naval boot camp, but they could no more sit-start than most of us. Their technique involved the leg/ankle wrap--the one the Flabby Gym Teacher makes you do.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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John,
I hope you realise what you have done. Internationally there are tens of thousands of boulderers, straining to reach a fraction of the standard you achieved.
An international sub culture has become established, supported by an industry that sells specialist hats, mats, tinctures, guidebooks, pants an all. People travel the world chasing grades and reputation.....
Families get broken up, children get sold, and fortunes are expended or lost in pursuit of of this esoteric game.
Your casual pronoucement that when you packed it in you, 'didn't miss it' will be devastating to the community. I suspect many will throw themselves off their boulders - but being 8' high and well padded out it prolly won't matter. ;-)
Steve
A recovering boulderer.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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children get sold
The Horror!
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David Lewis
Trad climber
North Conway,New Hampshire
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Just felt the need to comment on R Gold's inability (or too cautious to attempt at his current youthful age) to do an one armed pull up. Mr Gold you may no longer be able to perform this feat but, you were at this dance many times before and I dare say that this is better than most folks will ever be able to claim.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Ha!
In fleeting moment of electronic serendipity this thread sat directly above that on horse linament.
We need to start some threads on knackered tendons, and screwed up joints to increase the probablity again!
Steve
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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So I can do one arms with both arms, but not from full hanging. I have to have a slight bend in the elbow and shoulder to do em.
Do they only count if you can do a full hang one arm? Cause that is really hard!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
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Do they only count if you can do a full hang one arm?
Yup. Otherwise it is a mere partial one-arm pullup.
I suspect a lot of claims about one-arm pullups are really about partial ones, either starting high and/or finishing low. That plus all the ones in which one arm is grabbing the wrist of the other arm.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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That is one reason why I could only do a limited number; 3 on the left, 2 on the right - I always held myself to the standard of a full hang. I was watching a very powerful gymnast on you tube doing some amazing routines, but when it came to his one-arms he was not impressive. He could only do a single partial one-arm.
Thanks John! ;
I had it reattached, then decided that there were probably other such places in my body and I should stop trying harder problems and return to my original love of adventure climbing - soloing easy and moderate longer routes I had established in obscure areas. The next 20 years were the most enjoyable of my climbing career. Didn't miss bouldering at all.
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Crackslayer
Trad climber
Eldo
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I used to train to do a 1 arm pullup and was able to do one with my right for a few years and only a short time with my left. I gave up that training mainly because I don;t really think that it helps your climbing. Sure, if your climbing hard sport or bouldering, your going to want to be able to do 1 arms but for 5.11 trad, your never really going to need to do a 1 arm.
Now, I just do frenchies and lock offs. BTW I am a little taller (6'1") so I think it akes 1 arms a bit harder. I've seen some shorter guys crank out a 1 arm no problem but never really seen a "taller" guy do a full 1 arm.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I am 6' and weighed about 175 when I did them. Just for the heck of it I may explore training to do them on my left again. That's why I asked John Gill how he ripped his bicep off. My left arm may still be capable, my right is recovering from a 3rd degree separation. I will have to lose a little weight. The whole program would be easier than attempting to set the age record for soloing El Cap.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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having had a strong one-arm bitd, i'd say for the most part it's genetics whether or not one is able to do one. yes, it takes specific training to get there, but why? few climbing moves, if any, require a pure one-arm and my experience has been the cumulative damage inflicted on joints not worth any real increase in climbing skills or being able to show off in the gym. then again, hindsight is alway 20/20.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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To be honest, it would be a miracle if I could be able to do one again. I don't have joint problems though, having always done things in moderation. The main reason I could not do more one-arms back when I did them was that I probably did not care - I get bored with things pretty easily. I don't think I'm particularly endowed, it's more about making the mental connections, like getting the wiring and training right. It's totally not needed for climbing.....fun for one-handed boulder moves etc. It's more transcendental - just figuring out a way to do something that is intriguing - that has payoffs elsewhere, not to mention transcending what is supposed to be old age.
A can do attitude is important. Back in grammar school the firemen came to give a talk about something. One of them made an analogy or metaphor for something - I don't remember the details, but I remembered one of them saying you could not stop on a dime. To myself I said that's bullshit - he does not know what he's talking about. It's funny, that later in high school, trying out for basketball, we were running across the gym and back for speed, and on the turn-around on the farside of the gym I stopped and ripped the bottom off one of my converse shoes. It may have been rotten and old or something, but ironically, my tryout stopped then and there!
Anyway, I'll just go through the motions and see what happens. I'll set up the inner tube on the bar and also stand in another tube loop for awhile.....maybe even wear knee pads. I'll report back.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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idly curious about training for this utterly jackass parlor trick
but before embarking on my end-all 1UP campaign, has any legit climber showed off this stunt? for some reason, I can't even imagine Bachar or some Euro-waif firing a single rep
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