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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 2, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
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Just in case you don't have a copy of Doug Scott's superlative Big Wall Climbing, Mountain published two excerpts in March and April 1974. Scott's historical work is definitive in addition to being one hell of a climber.
Randisi has posted some of this material already but not the full version unless I missed it.
Second installment the following month.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Reread that book last year. I like his writing style: fluid and insightful. As you said he is really one of our best.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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What a thrill to have been the first up those fabulous torres!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2013 - 09:29pm PT
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Scott's work is first rate.
Stay tuned for Part II.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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That book is a tremendous resource of climbing history. One of the best books I ever purchased. It is faded and worn but still a great read. A lot of research went into it.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, all...
wow, i love books about history of mountains, etc...
thanks for sharing....
love the alps...
thanks again...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 10, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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I am SO gonna do the Basso next spring. I love seeing how hard those vecchio doods were.
1899? Are you kidding me?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2013 - 05:10pm PT
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No carrying your courage in your rucksack for those gentlemen! LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2013 - 01:50am PT
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Bump for the second installment.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2013 - 02:50pm PT
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Early Alpine history Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Comici Bump...
From Ascent 1972
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perswig
climber
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Jun 21, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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Poking around Twice Sold Tales in Farmington, Maine, I scored a copy of Whymper's Scrambles and an exhaustive 1949 text of Maine birds.
And then I found this.
Worth $7.50? I thought so.
I foresee many sleepless nights and some inattention at work.
Dale
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 21, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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Doug might be a Famous Climber™ and a Well Known Author™ but he's also a great guy. Down-to-earth, funny, and great fun to climb with.
And yeah, "Big Wall Climbing" is one of the truly great climbing books.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Pioneering Bump...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 25, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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"Oh, yeah!"--the Beatles
I recall vividly this pair of articles from the old Mountain, Steve. When I saw this thread topic, the words Paul Preuss came to mind immediately. That is a very worthwhile read and I'm sure Blakey's admiring it, too.
Merry Christmas, again, Steve.
And Merry Christmas, STEPHEN & BRONWEN--Again, I loved your TR on the "Dollies."
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Punta-Emma-The-Piaz-Crack-Lee-Harvey-Oswald-and-the-Kennedy-Assassination/t11418n.html
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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These articles were the first place that I learned about him until I bought Doug's extraordinary book.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Dec 26, 2013 - 05:13am PT
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Thanks Mouse,
I've been poking around trying to find out more about the First World War in the Dolomites. Unsurprisingly there's not much in English, but a few things are emerging that are really interesting.
I'll post them up onto the TR when i get the chance to pull them together.
I've two copies of Scott's book, one that was a 21st birthday present, and another recently given to my son in a pile of climbing books, by a relative. In some ways the books Eastern Alps section collided with the surge in interest in France, and for a long time the Dollies became less relevant to british climbers - for a long time a number of routes were almost a right of passage.
That's changing now , and the Dollies, with their fascinating climbing and military histories are back in their rightful place.
Have a great Christmas
Steve, Bronwen and tim.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 26, 2013 - 06:42am PT
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This and the others in the book Himalayan Climber by Doug Scott are not credited (exactly) in the book, so it makes it difficult to tell who took the photos. I hate to insult John Cleare and the like by not having their name attached to their work, which is so fine it makes me weeeeep in envy.This photo is not mine, and it's likely not Dogbt Scugg's either.
And then there's the brokedownbreakdancer, Rodger.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2238906/Dolomites-2013-Part-3-Torre-Quarta-Bassa-via-Normale
BUON NATALE, RODGER!!!
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Dec 26, 2013 - 09:33am PT
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Steve, You really have been pretty busy bumping---boring Christmas in the great Northwest, eh!!!!
Interestingly I'd just pulled Scott's book from my shelf the other day. I'd looked at some recent postings on the Preuss thread and was thinking about his predecessors--folks like Barth, Winkler, etc, so turned to that book to refresh my recollection, that Preuss himself, rather than being the "father" of a climbing tradition, was just further developing one that was already well-established---especially in the Germanic climbing culture.
I also remember that following the publication of those excerpts in Mountain, Fritz Weissner wrote a polite, but clearly displeased, letter to the editor about Scott's reporting on his climbing career. I recall that while Scott described Fritz as having done much of his early climbing in the Gesause range in Austria (?), Fritz stated that he had not even visited that range until some 50 years later. But Fritz's real "peeve" was that Scott had described him as "following" Solleder up the ground-breaking first ascent of the north face of the Furchetta in the Dolomites, while Fritz stated that he, himself, had actually led the crucial pitches on that climb. So, as valuable a reference as it is, this exchange shows that one should not assume that all that is written in Scott's book is totally accurate.
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