Auburn Quarry - Reloaded!

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 106 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
May 1, 2013 - 08:00am PT
I'll throw in my $0.02. Sounds like Steve has started work on the line. IMO it sets the claim as his on how he wants to do it.

Two other points:

1) Gear in the Quarry is a bad idea. Look at the many rock scars on existing routes and even fresh scars on walls without routes. The rock is highly fractured and sometimes it is hard to detect just how much. Given this is a sport area with a tradition of access issues due to injuries / fatalities, let's leave the gear at home. The amount of cleaning that the corner(s) (there are actually two corner systems) is going to require will be extreme.

2) Ground Up Style has already been done in the canyon several times. I bolted several routes from the ground up: Destructomatic, Uncomfortably Dumb, Black Rhino (2 pitches), Kilimanjaro and Community Chest to name a few. Chad, I would say just pick another line and give it a go. There should be room on that slab for multiple lines, but please touch base with Steve to make sure the intended lines don't criss-cross. Plenty of examples where this type of routes occurrence causes major strife in the climbing community. I believe several of them have been discussed at length on this site.

It is totally cool to see new routes going up! Let's keep it all harmonious! Plenty of room for everyone to get new lines going.
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
May 1, 2013 - 10:39am PT
The route I'm working on will hopefully be the combination of being a natural line and reletively easy to clean (I'd like finish this thing before it gets too hot). Sure the right facing corner to the top seems the most logical but Jesus that thing is going to take many many days to clean. If you want it go get it...and in any style you want. It goes all the way to the top. My route is going up near the center of the face both on the first and second pitch. Top pitch is nearly cleaned going up the center of the rippled slab and the bottom vertical pitch is about 25% cleaned from the bottom going up slightly left of center. Left to do in the short term is determine where the rest of the first pitch goes, clean it and put in some belay anchors somewhere where the slab pitch starts. Initial guess is around 10+ for the first pitch and 10- for the second. Mike C has agreed to help me and will be there this Friday afternoon. Any other help is welcome. Or if you are eyeing another line on the formation feel free to use my 70m fixed line to scope out another route put your own fixed line in. Top to bottom is about 65m. Top anchor share the 5 glue ins the slackliners put in. Btw, it's kind of tricky to get to the top from around the back.....let me know if you want beta. Right now the bottom of wall goes into shade around 1:00. The entire wall goes into shade around 5:00. There may be a time as we approach the solstice when the entire wall never goes into the shade.....Aaron?

I agree with Aaron. I choose to keep with the nature of the climbing in the quarry with regards to putting up routes. It' largely a sport climbing area and the virgin rock is very loose....call me a wuss for rap bolting, but that's just me.

Call or email for more info.

Steve Montesanto
650 996-5902
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
May 1, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
is your fixed line still there if I wanted to get up and fix my own? If not, what is the beta on getting to the top.
Aidan
530 417 1050

Re Chariots on Fire:
What length are the anchor bolts? I not into the bolting the chain direct to the wall without a hanger. If the bolts are 2 3/8 then there is probably only a 1 1/2 inch in the rock!


Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
May 1, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
I agree with Aaron 100%. My point was in doing my own thing out there I don't want to accidentally wander too close or cross anything someone else is working on. I know the upper slab goes, it's the start I'm worried about. Most of it is definitely not climbable G.U. drilling on stances. What I was worried about is having any (obviously limited) natural path to the upper slab cut off by someone going top down. I don't know, I'll have to head out there and take a closer look. I might head out there this weekend to scope out some potential. I suppose I could always sport bolt the first pitch and have my fun on the second.

Is your intended path/route going to be obvious? If not, could you please make sure to chalk it up a bit when you're out there Friday. I hate crowding routes.

Aidan, you thinking of heading out there this weekend? Give me an email.

Just for the record, I want absolutely nothing to do with that moss caked dirt seam that goes up the left hand side. Gear or not.
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Credit: M Carville
euro-brief-guy

Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
May 2, 2013 - 08:42am PT
Aiden et al,

Fixed line is in place to the top...feel free to use.

BTW, the black rock behind,above and right of the tree in Mike's picture is of unusual good quality. Good potential for a few good short single pitch routes going up this, ground up or otherwise. A route going up the left side of the black rock would meet up nicely with right side of the slab which would probably stay clear of my route which will likely go up the center of the slab.

SM
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
May 2, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Man that looks green!
euro-brief-guy

climber
Auburn, ca
Jan 28, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
Heard through the grapevine that the quarry will be open to climbing 7 days per week.

Anybody have the skinny on when this will go into effect?

Thanks in advance.
euro-brief-guy

climber
Auburn, ca
Jan 29, 2014 - 06:49am PT
Bump
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a.
Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a, Auburn Quarry.
Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a, Auburn Quarry.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 05:34pm PT
Rusty and Alex on pitch one of Chariots on Fire .11c.
Rusty and ALex on pitch one, Chariots on Fire .11c, Auburn Quarry, CA.
Rusty and ALex on pitch one, Chariots on Fire .11c, Auburn Quarry, CA.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .11c and pitch two .12a.
Rusty on Chariots on Fire .12a.
Rusty on Chariots on Fire .12a.
Credit: M Carville
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .11c. Pitch two .12a. ...
Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .11c. Pitch two .12a. Auburn Quarry, Ca.
Credit: M Carville
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Feb 14, 2014 - 06:31pm PT
Looks awesome! I was asking my wife if she wants to go to Auburn or a new area I am developing. She is still deciding!

I was once told that Auburn was a joke. It's interesting to see people's reaction to it, but I think time has shown who was right and who was wrong :)

Too be honest I am not sure which I want to go to. For those not afraid to tread the unbeaten path, aren't afraid of blazing a trail, high risk gardening aka poison oak removal (which I had to do at Auburn as well), a lot of elbow grease, and personal expense, the options are endless!
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
big bill price sending at the ac
Bill Price on Remember 9.11. &#40;5.10+&#41;. Auburn Quarry, CA. <br/>
Bill Price on Remember 9.11. (5.10+). Auburn Quarry, CA.

Credit: M Carville
msiddens

Trad climber
Feb 24, 2014 - 02:35pm PT
So great, gotta check it out. Thanks to all those involved
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
bill price, lacing up for pitch 2 on the twin towers at auburn quarry,...
bill price, lacing up for pitch 2 on the twin towers at auburn quarry, ca.
Credit: M Carville
WBraun

climber
Mar 2, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
Good sh!t Mike

I never forget rodeoing that huge studio camera up on the column .....

:-)
M Carville

Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 07:50am PT
Ha - I remember. Thanks to you, we got that thing up there. How are ya? Hope all is well.
Cheers, M
jonbrooks

Trad climber
El Cerrito, CA
Mar 24, 2014 - 09:17pm PT
I thought I'd give folks a heads up: I climbed Roman Holiday (pictured above) this weekend and found a really dangerous situation at the 6th bolt, right where the climber is in the picture. There's an obvious dagger-looking 6' long flake that's quite hollow. The sketchy thing is that the hollowness includes the bolt (right behind the climber's knee in the picture) and continues to a hairline crack about 6" to the right of the bolt. I would think nobody in their right mind would drill a bolt into hollowness like that when there's solid rock just inches away, which leads me to suspect that the flake's condition has deteriorated recently. It's one thing to be climbing near or around dangerous loose flakes - maybe even expected in a quarry, but another thing to have your rope attached to one.

Other than that, I'd say that most of the new routes that have gone in here that I've been on are really fun and well developed. Good work guys!
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