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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I agree with Aaron 100%. My point was in doing my own thing out there I don't want to accidentally wander too close or cross anything someone else is working on. I know the upper slab goes, it's the start I'm worried about. Most of it is definitely not climbable G.U. drilling on stances. What I was worried about is having any (obviously limited) natural path to the upper slab cut off by someone going top down. I don't know, I'll have to head out there and take a closer look. I might head out there this weekend to scope out some potential. I suppose I could always sport bolt the first pitch and have my fun on the second.
Is your intended path/route going to be obvious? If not, could you please make sure to chalk it up a bit when you're out there Friday. I hate crowding routes.
Aidan, you thinking of heading out there this weekend? Give me an email.
Just for the record, I want absolutely nothing to do with that moss caked dirt seam that goes up the left hand side. Gear or not.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Aiden et al,
Fixed line is in place to the top...feel free to use.
BTW, the black rock behind,above and right of the tree in Mike's picture is of unusual good quality. Good potential for a few good short single pitch routes going up this, ground up or otherwise. A route going up the left side of the black rock would meet up nicely with right side of the slab which would probably stay clear of my route which will likely go up the center of the slab.
SM
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Heard through the grapevine that the quarry will be open to climbing 7 days per week.
Anybody have the skinny on when this will go into effect?
Thanks in advance.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:34pm PT
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Rusty and Alex on pitch one of Chariots on Fire .11c.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .11c and pitch two .12a.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Looks awesome! I was asking my wife if she wants to go to Auburn or a new area I am developing. She is still deciding!
I was once told that Auburn was a joke. It's interesting to see people's reaction to it, but I think time has shown who was right and who was wrong :)
Too be honest I am not sure which I want to go to. For those not afraid to tread the unbeaten path, aren't afraid of blazing a trail, high risk gardening aka poison oak removal (which I had to do at Auburn as well), a lot of elbow grease, and personal expense, the options are endless!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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big bill price sending at the ac
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Feb 24, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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So great, gotta check it out. Thanks to all those involved
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Good sh!t Mike
I never forget rodeoing that huge studio camera up on the column .....
:-)
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Ha - I remember. Thanks to you, we got that thing up there. How are ya? Hope all is well.
Cheers, M
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jonbrooks
Trad climber
El Cerrito, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I thought I'd give folks a heads up: I climbed Roman Holiday (pictured above) this weekend and found a really dangerous situation at the 6th bolt, right where the climber is in the picture. There's an obvious dagger-looking 6' long flake that's quite hollow. The sketchy thing is that the hollowness includes the bolt (right behind the climber's knee in the picture) and continues to a hairline crack about 6" to the right of the bolt. I would think nobody in their right mind would drill a bolt into hollowness like that when there's solid rock just inches away, which leads me to suspect that the flake's condition has deteriorated recently. It's one thing to be climbing near or around dangerous loose flakes - maybe even expected in a quarry, but another thing to have your rope attached to one.
Other than that, I'd say that most of the new routes that have gone in here that I've been on are really fun and well developed. Good work guys!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:52am PT
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Rock was solid when the bolts went in.....made damn sure of it. Prolly happened over time. Will check it out when I get a chance. I guess this kind of thing comes with the territory at the quarry.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:58am PT
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It's one thing to be climbing near or around dangerous loose flakes - maybe even expected in a quarry, but another thing to have your rope attached to one.
!!
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jonbrooks
Trad climber
El Cerrito, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:00am PT
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I figured that was probably the case. It definitely seemed like a lot of care went into developing these routes aside from that.
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