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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Feb 26, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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thx for the topo. gonna check this place out. surely there must be quite a few more routes then what is on ur topo? is there any more beta on this place floating around out there?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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SRG: I get the sense you're baiting me about other routes... :P Yes there is, but unfortunately the SRA / Teichart (mining company) has fenced off a section of the previously developed cliffs making them off limits). Also, I quit developing out there once it became 100% clear that it was illegal and off limits to climb there. There is ALOT of undeveloped real-estate that Mike and his crew are working on.
I have put up a few easy things for my kids since it has re-opened but I am still rehabbing my knee after torn medial meniscus surgery so will be out of commission for awhile.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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thanks roughster, this will be helpful, happy climbing, if you need topos or beta for shuteye i will hook you up, cheers mike a.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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aaron's right, there's a bunch of new stuff still to do at the quarry. we've done some new things up at twin towers (right of wreckage wall - aaron developed pre-closure) over the last 3 weeks. it would be great to have more folks putting up routes. right now there are 4-6 local guys bolting routes in an effort to round the place out and have more fun climbs to do in the sacto area. aaron's on-line guide will most likely be the source to consult regarding new development. cheers, m
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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Is twin towers where there was some rebar type steel sticking out of the wall? If so do the routes avoid it or did you remove it?
I was looking at doing some routes there a while ago, haven't had the chance to get back since the ban got lifted.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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I believe the area you are talking about is called The Well (Aaron would know) and unfortunately is closed to climbing. Maybe someday it will open up but no access now. Twin Towers is below The Well and right of Wreckage Wall. Still plenty of new route stuff to do there. Cheers, M
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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The rebar wall is actually slightly down hill from the Wreckage Wall Fet.
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NorCalNomad
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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I forwarded this thread to my friend who is quite active in the bay area/foothills/Tahoe slacklining community, so hopefully good things will happen on that front.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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I recently responded to someone who has been involved with setting up the slack/high lines. I have removed the email / name so as to protect the identity of said individual, but I thought it was important to share my thoughts on this recent development:
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Hello!
I totally understand where you are coming from. It is frustrating to see other user groups use the Quarry and yet you are being excluded. However, the battle to get access back for rock climbing took 14 years and that was entirely due to slacklining which lead to rope jumping which lead to a fatality in the Quarry. I can tell you the ASRA is going to freak if they see you guys slacklining if you don't approach them first in a rational and proactive way and may result in significant financial fines and/or closure of the entire Quarry to all use.
Please, for the sake of climbers and the multi-year effort we put in to get access back, do not say that slacklining is the same as climbing. They are not. They share similar equipment, but the safety factor is completely different and involves much more dynamic and extreme forces and consequence on the rocks and people. There is a reason slacklines take 4 x 1/2" bolts on each side of the gap as opposed to climbing taking 1 x 3/8" bolt for a reasonable amount of safety. I am not saying that I personally don't want to see slacklining, in fact, it is the opposite, it looks like a lot fun. I am just concerned that any attempt to "lump" climbing and slacklining together will only result in both uses being once again off limits, which would be the 2nd time for the slacklining in the Quarry to cause a no climbing ban to go into effect.
I would suggest you call the ASRA office during M-F business hours and ask about how you can discuss a potential new use of the Quarry. You should be able to get the contact info to start the process. Please do so without tying climbing and slacklining in the same bucket.
Thanks for the reply! Please feel free to call me to discuss further if you would like. My cell phone is listed below.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Sounds like a good productive discussion, but isn't it also wrong to lump slack lining and rope
Jumping into the same bucket too?
The authorities are pretty cool around there, I got permission to bungee jump the forest hill bridge for a film project.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Fet:
Every failed walk is a rope jump. Any failed slackline as they are currently rigged is a fatality. I don't want another accident to close Auburn forever.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Roughster, I'm not saying anyone should highline or rope jump there, I'm just saying that someone who highlines may think lumping highlining and rope jumping together is very little different from lumping highlining and rock climbing.
Has there ever been a fatality highlining? I've never heard of one. While there's been a number of deaths from rope jumping.
I think the better argument is highlining is dangerous in it's own right and hasn't been allowed so you are jeopardizing access not only for climbing but for future allowed highlining as well. Most people who do it know how to do it with a backup, but others may see someone doing it and try it without the expertise and die. Rope jumping is inherently more dangerous than highlining or climbing IMO (unless either is done free solo / without a leash), the dynamic nature of rope jumping, the proximity to the ground at high speed. It's a different beast.
Rope jumping has much more in common with bungee jumping than highlining.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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The good news for an update is Brian is going to get Jerry in touch with Supe at the next meeting, so hopefully Jerry can get a successful sales pitch in to the SRA.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Re: slacklining
The local fire departments from the Sac region will go to the quarry to do high angle rescue. They will be there in the next few weeks I believe. One of their gigs it to rig a huge tyrolean for High line rescue training.
My point being they are doing almost the same thing as slack lining on the same cliffs. The BLM already allow it
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I don't think anyone realistically equates allowing local search and rescue training access as the same as private highliners considering the known and previously realized risks. I can bet that Search and Rescue cleared it with the SRA as well. That is all that I think needs to happen here, proactively engaging the SRA to ensure highlining doesn't jeopardize access to the Quarry....again.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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What about the people Base Jumping off the upper towers? Couple of them made the leap on Saturday. I guess slacklining isn't the only other concern.
Point is, its pretty difficult to tell other users what they can and can't do beyond verbally discouraging it. The SRA needs to be aware that climbers aren't a police force and have no way of controlling what others do out there. Best case scenario climbers are more like mall cops... STOP! or I'll say STOP AGAIN!
I'm not sure what else we can do. Unless the SRA's run by a bunch of complete retards, they have to already know that.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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I requested to some local slack liners who's friends "Did this rad high line up in Auburn" to tell them to stop slack lining at Auburn Quarry if that's where they are doing it, because it will get the climbing ban reinstated.
Seemed like I hit the nail on the head about it being at the Quarry. He said he'd pass it along.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I agree Chad, it isn't climbers job, but we currently have the most at stake and to lose in the quarry. You can base jump off of anything with height. You can set up a highline between trees or over a ravine.
You can only climb where cliffs exist, and around Sacramemto, these are few and far between especially in the winter. I think it is worth the ackwardness of proactive discussion to hopefully get these other user groups to do the right thing and contact the SRA.
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