Discussion Topic |
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 23, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
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The Auburn Quarry recently reopened to climbing thanks to http://norcalcrags.org/. Brings great fall, winter and spring climbing to Sacramento area.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Feb 23, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
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nice
such persistence from the Crags folks so that we can all touch a little limestone.
thanks!
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Feb 23, 2013 - 10:09pm PT
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It will be fun to check that place out sometime soon!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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????
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 24, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Hey Mike!
If you know who is doing the slacklines, please send me their info so I can contact them immediately. Unfortunately Auburn was closed in the first place because of slacklining / rope jumping. The SRA will not look upon this new twist with favor at all. This was one of the things that came up repeatedly during discussions with the SRA.
I would encourage anyone thinking about continuing to do this in the Quarry to stop immediately or risk jeopardizing access for everyone. No this is not hyperbole, this is a complete disregard of everything myself and many others have worked on for the last 14 years.
Yes, I said 14 YEARS :(
Right now climbers are on a type of probation with the SRA as we work through the initial period of time where the Quarry is open and they watch how we act as a user group. What, we lasted less than 3 months before this crap starts popping up again???
WTF is wrong with people?
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Feb 24, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Aaron et al,
I'll be up there this Friday. If they are there I'll be sure to get their contact info.
Btw, Mike...had a great time today!
Steve Montesanto
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:26am PT
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Thanks Steve.
For more information if people are interested, when the 4 bolt pattern went in on the Scale Wall and then on the Memorial Wall the SRA was concerned that CRAGS did it. It was clear they do not want this type of activity in the quarry.
I am not against slack lining if those interested in doing so work it out with the SRA. To do it despite their wishes, after they just reopened the quarry for climbing is head shaking.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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I would hope that the people doing the highlining just aren't aware of the history of the quarry. If you didn't know one the main reasons why climbing was shut down in the first place (a very unfortunate rope jumping death) then you probably wouldn't see a reason not to highline there.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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I guess this is a good thread to ask about this, but do any of you Tahoe or central valley guys remember / know about a small limestone cliff located at or near Redding? I went there about 20 years ago with a friend who was a local to the area. He called it "Shreding in Redding".
I remember it being a quite good wall of limestone about 75 - 100 feet high, that overhung the whole way. I think there were about 7 or so routes on it. It was on private land and we had to walk past a sign that said "closed / no trespassing" (not proud of that part). Guy I was with said people went there all the time and it was "no problem".
It wasn't in any guidebook, and almost no one else had ever heard of it.
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bjj
climber
beyond the sun
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Feb 25, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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Oh wow, yeah that's it.
I guess it's open to access again? I remember it being quite good, and we climbed everything there in one day, except for the 12b (didn't try) and failed to redpoint one 12a (too tired).
Also, are you A.R.? If so, I remember you from the days of rec.climbing - we even had some correspondence by snail mail about 15 years back. I'd been in an accident and broke my back, laid me up for a year. You sent me some videos and other such things to keep my spirits up. IIRC, one of them was of you flashing White Rasta and then celebrating vigorously after. It was tres cool.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 25, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
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Anything in the reasonable/moderate range there?
All I see is 11 and up, except for the 10d. I might get up that with a snug toprope....HA!
Pudgy weak old timer needs to get back on horse, belayer required.....
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Feb 25, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
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i talked to bill price about this place and it sounds fun, he said he is putting up a new route, so i am going to check it out next month, i am excited to see what old billy goat price is got shaken, keep the pix coming, happy climbing mike a.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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Thanks Roughster, I'm on it!!!
Low ten is my favorite number...heh heh...
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NorCalNomad
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Feb 25, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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bjj there is also some other route info on RC that hasn't been copied over to MP about the shredding, worth looking that up as well.
Stoked to see that the Auburn quarry is back open.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 25, 2013 - 05:11pm PT
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bjj: Yes it is "me" from the old rec.climbing days. Ahh, a time long ago where I was a lot more hot headed and full of piss and vinegar. I am glad I at least didn't offend everyone on the Usenet, just a select few :P
Good to hear you're recovered and back in action! I have heard that there has been a bit of new routing at the Shredding, so if you get out there, let me know how it goes!
As for White Rasta, that was more of elation from not dying than true celebration :) I had no idea the there was a mantle at the top and thought I was in the $$ once I stuck the rail. I was quite stressed pawing at the sloping dish thinking about the boulder and cactus 20 feet below me, hehe.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 25, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Really nice to see this place resurrected. Thanks for all the effort Rough and persistance in finally getting the place re opened and the ton of effort puttting up all the routes since I was there last. Have kept an eye on your progress. Looking forward to getting down there again and checking out all the new routes. Always looked like loads of sport climbing potential for anyone willing to put in a bunch of cleaning/trundling effort and buying a pile of bolts. Last time I checked it out was mid-late 90s and I know there has been a ton of new routes since then. When I was a young boy in the late 60s/early seventies I have vivid memories of seeing some of those cliffs many times from the Forrest Hill side of the canyon, seemed enormous to me then. Then in high school in the late 70s/early 80s we spent a bunch of time (rafting, etc.) in the river far below the quarry. Never really thought about climbing in a quarry until I was talked into checking it out in the mid 90s to get out of the winter cold in Tahoe.
Going to be a great climbing resource for those living in the greater Sacramento region and for those trying to get out of the Tahoe snow on warmer winter days. Will have to start making some trips down there as soon as I heal up from the ribs I broke on Friday, (Lead fall) :( Can't wait to get down there soon, before it gets hot.
As for the question about "The Shredding/Burney Limestone": All the new stuff will be in the new "Locals Guide to: Northeast California" which Paul and I are putting the, very, final editing touches to and hopefully will be off to the printers soon. I think there are about 40-50 routes at The Shredding/Burney Limestone that Paul has documented.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 01:20am PT
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Aaron - I was wondering if the slack lining would be an issue. Some climbers had minor problems with rock fall when the slack line guys set up last Friday. I should be out there this Friday and will try to dig up info or talk with them if they're out there. Cheers, M
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Some Random Guy
climber
In a chair, drinkin' a beer, watchin' the show
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Feb 26, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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thx for the topo. gonna check this place out. surely there must be quite a few more routes then what is on ur topo? is there any more beta on this place floating around out there?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 26, 2013 - 10:54am PT
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SRG: I get the sense you're baiting me about other routes... :P Yes there is, but unfortunately the SRA / Teichart (mining company) has fenced off a section of the previously developed cliffs making them off limits). Also, I quit developing out there once it became 100% clear that it was illegal and off limits to climb there. There is ALOT of undeveloped real-estate that Mike and his crew are working on.
I have put up a few easy things for my kids since it has re-opened but I am still rehabbing my knee after torn medial meniscus surgery so will be out of commission for awhile.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Feb 26, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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thanks roughster, this will be helpful, happy climbing, if you need topos or beta for shuteye i will hook you up, cheers mike a.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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aaron's right, there's a bunch of new stuff still to do at the quarry. we've done some new things up at twin towers (right of wreckage wall - aaron developed pre-closure) over the last 3 weeks. it would be great to have more folks putting up routes. right now there are 4-6 local guys bolting routes in an effort to round the place out and have more fun climbs to do in the sacto area. aaron's on-line guide will most likely be the source to consult regarding new development. cheers, m
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 27, 2013 - 12:05am PT
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Is twin towers where there was some rebar type steel sticking out of the wall? If so do the routes avoid it or did you remove it?
I was looking at doing some routes there a while ago, haven't had the chance to get back since the ban got lifted.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 27, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
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I believe the area you are talking about is called The Well (Aaron would know) and unfortunately is closed to climbing. Maybe someday it will open up but no access now. Twin Towers is below The Well and right of Wreckage Wall. Still plenty of new route stuff to do there. Cheers, M
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 27, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
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The rebar wall is actually slightly down hill from the Wreckage Wall Fet.
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NorCalNomad
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Feb 28, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
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I forwarded this thread to my friend who is quite active in the bay area/foothills/Tahoe slacklining community, so hopefully good things will happen on that front.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 28, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
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I recently responded to someone who has been involved with setting up the slack/high lines. I have removed the email / name so as to protect the identity of said individual, but I thought it was important to share my thoughts on this recent development:
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Hello!
I totally understand where you are coming from. It is frustrating to see other user groups use the Quarry and yet you are being excluded. However, the battle to get access back for rock climbing took 14 years and that was entirely due to slacklining which lead to rope jumping which lead to a fatality in the Quarry. I can tell you the ASRA is going to freak if they see you guys slacklining if you don't approach them first in a rational and proactive way and may result in significant financial fines and/or closure of the entire Quarry to all use.
Please, for the sake of climbers and the multi-year effort we put in to get access back, do not say that slacklining is the same as climbing. They are not. They share similar equipment, but the safety factor is completely different and involves much more dynamic and extreme forces and consequence on the rocks and people. There is a reason slacklines take 4 x 1/2" bolts on each side of the gap as opposed to climbing taking 1 x 3/8" bolt for a reasonable amount of safety. I am not saying that I personally don't want to see slacklining, in fact, it is the opposite, it looks like a lot fun. I am just concerned that any attempt to "lump" climbing and slacklining together will only result in both uses being once again off limits, which would be the 2nd time for the slacklining in the Quarry to cause a no climbing ban to go into effect.
I would suggest you call the ASRA office during M-F business hours and ask about how you can discuss a potential new use of the Quarry. You should be able to get the contact info to start the process. Please do so without tying climbing and slacklining in the same bucket.
Thanks for the reply! Please feel free to call me to discuss further if you would like. My cell phone is listed below.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Feb 28, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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Sounds like a good productive discussion, but isn't it also wrong to lump slack lining and rope
Jumping into the same bucket too?
The authorities are pretty cool around there, I got permission to bungee jump the forest hill bridge for a film project.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Fet:
Every failed walk is a rope jump. Any failed slackline as they are currently rigged is a fatality. I don't want another accident to close Auburn forever.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Roughster, I'm not saying anyone should highline or rope jump there, I'm just saying that someone who highlines may think lumping highlining and rope jumping together is very little different from lumping highlining and rock climbing.
Has there ever been a fatality highlining? I've never heard of one. While there's been a number of deaths from rope jumping.
I think the better argument is highlining is dangerous in it's own right and hasn't been allowed so you are jeopardizing access not only for climbing but for future allowed highlining as well. Most people who do it know how to do it with a backup, but others may see someone doing it and try it without the expertise and die. Rope jumping is inherently more dangerous than highlining or climbing IMO (unless either is done free solo / without a leash), the dynamic nature of rope jumping, the proximity to the ground at high speed. It's a different beast.
Rope jumping has much more in common with bungee jumping than highlining.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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The good news for an update is Brian is going to get Jerry in touch with Supe at the next meeting, so hopefully Jerry can get a successful sales pitch in to the SRA.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Re: slacklining
The local fire departments from the Sac region will go to the quarry to do high angle rescue. They will be there in the next few weeks I believe. One of their gigs it to rig a huge tyrolean for High line rescue training.
My point being they are doing almost the same thing as slack lining on the same cliffs. The BLM already allow it
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I don't think anyone realistically equates allowing local search and rescue training access as the same as private highliners considering the known and previously realized risks. I can bet that Search and Rescue cleared it with the SRA as well. That is all that I think needs to happen here, proactively engaging the SRA to ensure highlining doesn't jeopardize access to the Quarry....again.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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What about the people Base Jumping off the upper towers? Couple of them made the leap on Saturday. I guess slacklining isn't the only other concern.
Point is, its pretty difficult to tell other users what they can and can't do beyond verbally discouraging it. The SRA needs to be aware that climbers aren't a police force and have no way of controlling what others do out there. Best case scenario climbers are more like mall cops... STOP! or I'll say STOP AGAIN!
I'm not sure what else we can do. Unless the SRA's run by a bunch of complete retards, they have to already know that.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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I requested to some local slack liners who's friends "Did this rad high line up in Auburn" to tell them to stop slack lining at Auburn Quarry if that's where they are doing it, because it will get the climbing ban reinstated.
Seemed like I hit the nail on the head about it being at the Quarry. He said he'd pass it along.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I agree Chad, it isn't climbers job, but we currently have the most at stake and to lose in the quarry. You can base jump off of anything with height. You can set up a highline between trees or over a ravine.
You can only climb where cliffs exist, and around Sacramemto, these are few and far between especially in the winter. I think it is worth the ackwardness of proactive discussion to hopefully get these other user groups to do the right thing and contact the SRA.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Mar 17, 2013 - 08:05pm PT
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Mar 17, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Way to go Bill!
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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What's up with the name "Cave Valley" climbing area posted on the signs?
I've heard it called Auburn Quarry by all climbers. I've seen earlier references to Mountain Quarry.
Was Cave Valley a legitimate previous name, or did someone just pull it out of a hat?
I know there are mines there. Is/was there caves?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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It is probably in reference to:
http://www.hawvercave.org/
Take a look at the site, pretty cool stuff under the Quarry that should eventually be open for tours.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I did a little research since posting. Cave Valley was the old name for the town of Cool.
The railroad going up to the quarry was Mountain Quarry Railroad, and the name of the company was Mountain Quarries Company.
That link was interesting Roughster, thanks. So there was a cave there before it was turned into a mine.
I also hope they do tours of the mine. I was checking it out yesterday and wanted to go in it.
So I wonder if before it was a quarry it was named Cave Valley (named for the cave below it). And then the town was named after it.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I called ASRA and they are shooting for cave tours starting the 2nd week of September.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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I've been all over in those old mining caves. before the gate was there it was blocked by a pile of boulders and someone dug out a very narrow and claustrophobic tunnel through them to sneak in. As a teenager I used to go in there with my friends, smoke a bunch of pot and wander around for hours.
It's way bigger in through the tunnel system than you think it would be. There are big side chambers off the main shaft.
I will have to pay attention to when they start tours. Would love to make a legal visit as an adult.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I went in once through the top entrance and was absolutely terrified going down the rope. My wife and kids were "waiting" for a report from before they tried. After getting to the bottom and looking around, I went back up and said no way they should come in. Definitely would be cool to get back in there legally!
Auburn is such a cool little area given the river, the climbing, the cave, etc.. It's not world class, but I think the persistence of the few of us to get this place reopened has been well worth the years of effort.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Yea. THanks alot for sure.
I'm appreciative every time I'm up there... and looking forward to putting in some weekend volunteer time crag-sitting when CRAGS eventually gets around to emailing me.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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That place don't look any worse than American Fork. Anything steep?
Looks like a great addition to the area's climbing. Thanks for all the work!
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Any chance we can get some beta on the new routes at the twin towers? A r-l list would be awesome! Id like to check out remember 911!!
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Risk
Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
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Apr 13, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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I am delighted to see that ARA and the quarry is now open more so than in many past decades, like when Bruce Kranz ran a fraudulent and corrupt so called "recreation area" where every sign only said what you couldn't do.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 17, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Liking the new routes but we need some creative naming. Going with the Colosseum theme, might I recommend Biggus Dickus! I have others :)
Little Ceaser is great but I pulled off the clipping hold for the 3rd bolt but a decent hold remains(?. 1st clip is above a nasty bolder but seemed easy enough without a stickclip. Felt like 11b. Chariots on fire felt like 11c and Release the Lions felt like 11+.
Still, all of this could be because I'm old and weak?
Chad's new route (i'm told)on the very far left of the Wreckage Wall is great and perhaps my favorite on that wall 10b or c?
What is the ist pitch of B. Price's dihedral route rated?
I see a second pitch to Little Ceasar? what is that rated?
Thanks fro all the hard work. Most fun outing
Aidan
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
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Aidan,
We figured it might take a couple of ascents for the routes to clean up/grade confirmation. Stick clip was part of the plan for first clip on Caesars due to poor rock. Can boulder out too but a heads up landing as you mentioned. Second pitch is off Chariots .11+ or maybe 12- ( it felt kinda hard and tricky but fun climbing and great location). Not sure of grade on Bill's route (10+/11)??? I know he hurt his ankle and is on the mend/not climbing right now.
Hope that helps. BTW - emeralds/bowman perfect conditions.
Cheers, Mike
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 19, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Thanks Mike,
hope to be out there on Sunday. I would like to try Bill's corner route and the second pitch of Chariot's.
a
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 19, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
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Stick clip was part of the plan for first clip on Caesars due to poor rock.
Does this mean the rock was poor where you would have placed another bolt lower?
Should we try to get the word out that a stick clip is a good addition to the 'rack' for the quarry? I know there's a few other climbs with high first bolts over bad landings.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Apr 19, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
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Hey Aidan, yep that's a route I did on the far Left of Wreckage.
I might head out there Sunday if I can find a partner (you booked?) or hook up with a group. I wanna try getting on those new routes up the canyon.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 19, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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There's 2 new routes I put up left of all the others. Located between the brambles and the rock buttress extending to the trail. Left route is "let's roll" 10c/d ***. Right route is "wmd's and tinker toys 5.7 *. Would like to get confirmation on the grade and quality.
Went out the there today to rig the giant slab facing the colleseum.. Next Friday will fix lines and rap down for the full recon.....stay tuned.
Steve Montesanto
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 20, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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Hey Chad,
I'll be out there tomorrow. I think have a partner but I think all told could be a crew of several people there so finding someone to hold a rope would probably be pretty easy. My plan is to be at the parking by 9 to make use of the shade for as long as possible.
a
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 20, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Steve,
I'll be interested in seeing what the rippled wall across goes at. The shallow dihedral on the left will be a great route i'm betting but a full day of scrubbing to get at it
Aidan
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 24, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Very cool Dingus.
Here's one of mine.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 25, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Gave the Chariots route second pitch a go.
The upper arete is great but very hard to read onsight. I think I'll have it next time but there is a lot of climbing in those 2 pitches to get up there. Pretty impressive to be on a cool arete 200 feet up a dead vertical wall in our little quarry.
I have to think 12a to onsight pitch 2. Plenty of stuff breaking off but non of it big or essential. Wear helmets especially the belayer
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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I finished rebolting the rest of the Memorial Wall today and added mussy hook anchors. All routes on the wall have been restored and are open for business!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/memorial-wall/105734237
Updated topo. All anchors with Mussys except for Sneaky / Short Term. I ran out but will get them next time up:
Thanks to Brian P. for rebolting KAA!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 27, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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I added Mussy's to a few routes on scale wall. I also have more on order and will continue to add to routes that need them.
BTW, rapped down the giant slab and started cleaning yesterday. Wow! Gonna be a classic.
Steve Montesanto
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Nice Steve! I had my eye on that slab for a long time but given its visual prominence from the road left it alone. It was on the "To Do" list but with this knee bullshit I figured someone else was going to snatch it! Oh well, plenty of other good looking lines to be had!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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Other Steve, not Eurobrief, who did the FA of Kirk Aren's Arete with me on the Memorial Wall, what is your last name so I can have it added to the FAist list in the topo and on MP? Is it you theFet? Sorry getting old and memory is a bit hazy about "Steve's" last name, lol!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 27, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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I'm up for recruiting help on that slab. whoever's up to put in some hours hanging from a rope I could sure use it. Eventually there's 2-3 routes that could go up that thing and my time is limited to Fridays only. Most of the 2nd pitch upper slab is cleaned for the main center route. It's the first pitch vertical part that's going to take another few days to clean up. Anyone, anyone, Beuller, Beuller?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 28, 2013 - 03:06am PT
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Yes Aaron it was me. Steve Fettke
Steve,
I'll email you through this site if I can make it up to the quarry on a Friday. I've got a bolts, hangers, hammer drill, etc. But not much time!
-The Other Steve
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 28, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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Fet,
Got plenty of gear already. Can you come out on the weekend and put some hours in alone?
SM
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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My weekends are booked pretty much solid through the summer unfortunately.
I'm going to try to squeeze a day or two in before it gets too hot if possible. Fridays are probably my best bet.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 28, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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BTW, wall goes in the shade in the afternoon.
SM
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Apr 29, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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The rock on that slab doesn't look as chossy as most other areas in the canyon. I was going to have a stab at leading it ground up a month or so ago but it was still too wet. It doesn't look any dirtier than some of the other stuff I've climbed, is it really that bad?
I'd love to and be totally willing to help you out with it (weekends only) but if the rock is permissive with natural stances, I'd sure like a go at it before it gets sport bolted.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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Salamizer,
Yes, second pitch up the slab is clean. I Just had to clean some moss. It's the first pitch getting to the slab that requires substantial cleaning with lots of loose rock. Going ground up would be cool but I took the easy way out. There's a fixed line to the top in place now and the first pitch is approx 25% cleaned already. If you're up to contributing to the rap bolting effort go for it. Email for more details and coordination. I'm there most Fridays.
SM
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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I assume you mean the rippled wall facing across at the twin towers?. are you cleaning the first and shallower of the right faceing corners on the left side of the wall. Going to be an easy grade I suspect and all could go on gear? to bolt or not. If you do the central slabs on that face, how runout sibce it;s easy climbing I suspect.
What is the easiest way to get to the anchor? is ther a rope hanging?
aidan
i'm up for a little cleaning project
aidan 417 1050
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I just wanna climb that upper slab bolting on lead. I don't care if it gets retroed after for the sport feel. I wanna approach from the base on the left under the right facing corner system and work my way over to the slab and climb it's natural passage.
There's plenty of room for top down expansion. What's wrong with a little variety in the name of a great adventure?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I'll throw in my $0.02. Sounds like Steve has started work on the line. IMO it sets the claim as his on how he wants to do it.
Two other points:
1) Gear in the Quarry is a bad idea. Look at the many rock scars on existing routes and even fresh scars on walls without routes. The rock is highly fractured and sometimes it is hard to detect just how much. Given this is a sport area with a tradition of access issues due to injuries / fatalities, let's leave the gear at home. The amount of cleaning that the corner(s) (there are actually two corner systems) is going to require will be extreme.
2) Ground Up Style has already been done in the canyon several times. I bolted several routes from the ground up: Destructomatic, Uncomfortably Dumb, Black Rhino (2 pitches), Kilimanjaro and Community Chest to name a few. Chad, I would say just pick another line and give it a go. There should be room on that slab for multiple lines, but please touch base with Steve to make sure the intended lines don't criss-cross. Plenty of examples where this type of routes occurrence causes major strife in the climbing community. I believe several of them have been discussed at length on this site.
It is totally cool to see new routes going up! Let's keep it all harmonious! Plenty of room for everyone to get new lines going.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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The route I'm working on will hopefully be the combination of being a natural line and reletively easy to clean (I'd like finish this thing before it gets too hot). Sure the right facing corner to the top seems the most logical but Jesus that thing is going to take many many days to clean. If you want it go get it...and in any style you want. It goes all the way to the top. My route is going up near the center of the face both on the first and second pitch. Top pitch is nearly cleaned going up the center of the rippled slab and the bottom vertical pitch is about 25% cleaned from the bottom going up slightly left of center. Left to do in the short term is determine where the rest of the first pitch goes, clean it and put in some belay anchors somewhere where the slab pitch starts. Initial guess is around 10+ for the first pitch and 10- for the second. Mike C has agreed to help me and will be there this Friday afternoon. Any other help is welcome. Or if you are eyeing another line on the formation feel free to use my 70m fixed line to scope out another route put your own fixed line in. Top to bottom is about 65m. Top anchor share the 5 glue ins the slackliners put in. Btw, it's kind of tricky to get to the top from around the back.....let me know if you want beta. Right now the bottom of wall goes into shade around 1:00. The entire wall goes into shade around 5:00. There may be a time as we approach the solstice when the entire wall never goes into the shade.....Aaron?
I agree with Aaron. I choose to keep with the nature of the climbing in the quarry with regards to putting up routes. It' largely a sport climbing area and the virgin rock is very loose....call me a wuss for rap bolting, but that's just me.
Call or email for more info.
Steve Montesanto
650 996-5902
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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is your fixed line still there if I wanted to get up and fix my own? If not, what is the beta on getting to the top.
Aidan
530 417 1050
Re Chariots on Fire:
What length are the anchor bolts? I not into the bolting the chain direct to the wall without a hanger. If the bolts are 2 3/8 then there is probably only a 1 1/2 inch in the rock!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I agree with Aaron 100%. My point was in doing my own thing out there I don't want to accidentally wander too close or cross anything someone else is working on. I know the upper slab goes, it's the start I'm worried about. Most of it is definitely not climbable G.U. drilling on stances. What I was worried about is having any (obviously limited) natural path to the upper slab cut off by someone going top down. I don't know, I'll have to head out there and take a closer look. I might head out there this weekend to scope out some potential. I suppose I could always sport bolt the first pitch and have my fun on the second.
Is your intended path/route going to be obvious? If not, could you please make sure to chalk it up a bit when you're out there Friday. I hate crowding routes.
Aidan, you thinking of heading out there this weekend? Give me an email.
Just for the record, I want absolutely nothing to do with that moss caked dirt seam that goes up the left hand side. Gear or not.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Aiden et al,
Fixed line is in place to the top...feel free to use.
BTW, the black rock behind,above and right of the tree in Mike's picture is of unusual good quality. Good potential for a few good short single pitch routes going up this, ground up or otherwise. A route going up the left side of the black rock would meet up nicely with right side of the slab which would probably stay clear of my route which will likely go up the center of the slab.
SM
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Jan 28, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Heard through the grapevine that the quarry will be open to climbing 7 days per week.
Anybody have the skinny on when this will go into effect?
Thanks in advance.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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Bill and Angie Price on Roman Holiday .11a.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:34pm PT
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Rusty and Alex on pitch one of Chariots on Fire .11c.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Rusty and Jimmy Thornburg starting up pitch one .11c and pitch two .12a.
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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Looks awesome! I was asking my wife if she wants to go to Auburn or a new area I am developing. She is still deciding!
I was once told that Auburn was a joke. It's interesting to see people's reaction to it, but I think time has shown who was right and who was wrong :)
Too be honest I am not sure which I want to go to. For those not afraid to tread the unbeaten path, aren't afraid of blazing a trail, high risk gardening aka poison oak removal (which I had to do at Auburn as well), a lot of elbow grease, and personal expense, the options are endless!
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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big bill price sending at the ac
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Feb 24, 2014 - 05:35pm PT
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So great, gotta check it out. Thanks to all those involved
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Good sh!t Mike
I never forget rodeoing that huge studio camera up on the column .....
:-)
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M Carville
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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Ha - I remember. Thanks to you, we got that thing up there. How are ya? Hope all is well.
Cheers, M
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jonbrooks
Trad climber
El Cerrito, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:17am PT
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I thought I'd give folks a heads up: I climbed Roman Holiday (pictured above) this weekend and found a really dangerous situation at the 6th bolt, right where the climber is in the picture. There's an obvious dagger-looking 6' long flake that's quite hollow. The sketchy thing is that the hollowness includes the bolt (right behind the climber's knee in the picture) and continues to a hairline crack about 6" to the right of the bolt. I would think nobody in their right mind would drill a bolt into hollowness like that when there's solid rock just inches away, which leads me to suspect that the flake's condition has deteriorated recently. It's one thing to be climbing near or around dangerous loose flakes - maybe even expected in a quarry, but another thing to have your rope attached to one.
Other than that, I'd say that most of the new routes that have gone in here that I've been on are really fun and well developed. Good work guys!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
Auburn, ca
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:52am PT
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Rock was solid when the bolts went in.....made damn sure of it. Prolly happened over time. Will check it out when I get a chance. I guess this kind of thing comes with the territory at the quarry.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Mar 25, 2014 - 12:58am PT
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It's one thing to be climbing near or around dangerous loose flakes - maybe even expected in a quarry, but another thing to have your rope attached to one.
!!
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jonbrooks
Trad climber
El Cerrito, CA
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Mar 25, 2014 - 01:00am PT
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I figured that was probably the case. It definitely seemed like a lot of care went into developing these routes aside from that.
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| Messages 1 - 102 of total 102 in this topic |
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