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Rock Cricket
climber
North Canaan, CT
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:34pm PT
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kinda like bolts, you couldn't climb it without them.
You CAN climb something that would protect (only) with bolts without them..
1. Freesolo
2. Toprope
You CAN'T lead a line in that situation without bolts. Is it worth defacing the rock to be able to lead a line that you could just toprope? Debatable. I for one think it's fine (assuming you couldn't lead it on gear) as long as they are placed properly, in the proper locations, and not excessively (all subjective). Anyway, you CAN physically climb something without the bolts because the holds are still there. In this case, presumably THE HOLDS WERE NOT THERE! THE ASSHOLE CARVED THEM OUT! (at least, it lacked good enough holds for this guy to climb it). And no, I couldn't climb it either, with or without the chipping.
Bottom line, this dude was wrong doing this. For the person who wrote the guidebook for Gunks bouldering to be defacing rock in the region (or anywhere) is f***ed.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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bad Ivan!
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
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"Bottom line, this dude was wrong doing this. For the person who wrote the guidebook for Gunks bouldering to be defacing rock in the region (or anywhere) is f***ed. "
Agreed.
Haven't seen the book but I'd be interested in what he has to say about the local ethics with regards to chipping, manufacturing, etc... or maybe there isn't a section on that.
That dog knows it's tainted, you can see it in his eyes.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:51pm PT
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Well, I just called out Ivan on Facebook, saying:
If this is NOT YOU *Ivan Greene* (linked name), then you should make a statement to that effect. Many of us (including myself) are starting to draw conclusions from various sources
1/2 hour later, there is no sign of my post.
Very interesting. He is still my FB friend, and when I go to his page there is no "you were mentioned in a post by..."
Damage control?
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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I was just joking Weg. Although I've heard that Ivan does make a tasty flan.
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Rock Cricket
climber
North Canaan, CT
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Feb 20, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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Haven't seen the book but I'd be interested in what he has to say about the local ethics with regards to chipping, manufacturing, etc... or maybe there isn't a section on that.
I happen to have the guidebook right here..
Bouldering in the Shawangunks 2nd edition, Ivan Greene & Marc Russo
"ETHICS AND UNDERSTANDINGS:
Keep it simple. Leave the rocks the way they are. No chipping, filling, sculpting, etc. of anything on the boulders.."
WHAT THE F***!!!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 10:59pm PT
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What were you expecting?
A BJ from Jeremy's mom, mostly.
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Nilepoc
Big Wall climber
Tx
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:07pm PT
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Still no reply to Facebook PM.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Are you sure you want to remove Ivan Greene as your friend?
Yes.
4804 friends at last check - let's see where this goes...
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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He's probably a doper too . . . where is the USADA?
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
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Thanks Cricket.
WTF indeed.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:22pm PT
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Still no reply to Facebook PM.
I think we know why
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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would this be a bad time to admit that I chipped Stick It so I could bag my project?
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weezy
climber
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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meanwhile, four leaders gaze upon this travesty, stone-faced in their silent objection...
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
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Has anyone freed the Noses?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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^^^^ the convenience of that meme is astounding.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Feb 20, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
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haha nice one g
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