Chipping culprit filmed in NY

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Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 24, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
"ethics" may be too strong a word but its the word we use. Don't damage anything, because it doesnt belong to you and other people have the right to enjoy it without all your bolts, chisel scars and glue. It's not like you're going up Mt Everest walking by all these dying people, that's real ethics, but you're still damaging something that's been in a natural state for millions of years. It's a good ethic but nothing compared to blasting away the side of a mountain to put in a highway, or for that matter, whoever built highway 120 damaged a lot of pristine wilderness and then opened the floodgates to tourism. I think you probably have a bigger impact on the environment in other ways, ie from the products you buy, garbage you make etc.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:05am PT
Again, it ain't rocket science - if you boulder with a sledge, you lost all perspective long ago.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:54am PT
Wow, he has some kind of Tlingit tattoo on his back? So spiritual dude.


My Indian friend weeps.

mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 25, 2013 - 03:57am PT
"if you boulder with a sledge, you lost all perspective long ago"
defective detective

Trad climber
da gunks
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:01am PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jqR4MkYgGM
defective detective

Trad climber
da gunks
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:03am PT
interesting side note: some of the hardest routes (listed in the guidebook) at the gunks were chipped

http://books.google.com/books?id=9-npVkicu9wC&pg=PA114&lpg=PA114&dq=was+gunks+twilight+zone+chiseled&source=bl&ots=bWOTYIibUC&sig=unJ5JKU_OBui1azYk0ikQfhUUqk&hl=en&sa=X&ei=l_onUcSoEous8ATgw4HgCw&ved=0CDMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=was%20gunks%20twilight%20zone%20chiseled&f=false
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:17am PT

But I'm pretty sure killing others for personal benefit is universally considered immoral.

Unless you are cheney and Halliburton, then you can do it with taxpayer funding.

Dingus McGee,

Don't try to explain relativism and reason to this crowd, These are types that pound pitons with a hammers on desert vertical towers while tourists at the base while complaining about a random chossy boulder in the woods in NY. They do the Nose, but ignore the fact that it would go if it hadn't been chipped.

But hey, all climbing 'ethics' are local, right? Unless it is a crappy video, released by a half-rate mag tying to claw it's way up by being the new People magazine of the climbing world (Ivan EXPOSED), then then we can make universal assumptions and start flinging virtual interweb poo.
defective detective

Trad climber
da gunks
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:20am PT
climbers are a sanctimonious lot?

no way!
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:30am PT
merchrist,

Learn the difference between morality and ethics. Morality has to do with when to kill, an entirely different matter than when to chisel.

patrick compton gets it right when he says, "... ethics are local." Climbing eithixs tries to regulate the almost intangibles yet ignores the obvious shades of its ingnorance.

GET THIS STRAIGHT: The filmed chiseler has climbing ethics BUT they are different than what some of you rant about.


healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 25, 2013 - 08:56am PT
Always good to know who's lost all perspective along with Ivan.
OR

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:03am PT
Again, it ain't rocket science - if you boulder with a sledge, you lost all perspective long ago.

Ha, awesome.

Say what you will about Ivan Greene but after watching a few of his vids posted here he is undoubtedly a self absorbed knob of the highest order.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:10am PT
healyje,

you live in bubble, but you are just beginning to feel it's boundaries of the confined narrow world view you entertain.,

View Ivan work as heavy hold enhancement techniques whereas light hold enhancement techniques would be using a stiff wire brush.

And OR some people do boulder with a wire brush while some climbers climb with a hammer but to you and a few others cannot let Ivan boulder with a sledge.

Hey old man take a look at Your Life.... yours is a lot like mine

Go listen to Neil Young
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:25am PT
Dingus, the boulders don't belong to Ivan. They are not his to alter as he pleases.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Dropline,

neither do the pinnacles climbers clean and trundle rocks from nor the cracks they clean with a hammer.

Your boundaries are artificial.

WE climbers seem to think this is our resource for the type of alteration we want?
OR

Trad climber
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:53am PT
Dingus, what are your boundaries in creating boulder problems?
Dropline

Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Things are a bit different here in NY. It's on state owned land where such alteration is a violation of land use policy.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 25, 2013 - 09:59am PT
Dingus doesn't see boundaries, only an infinite sea of featureless gray.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:02am PT
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:04am PT
healyje

Trad climb,

Yes a continuum, a concept you are clueless about.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Feb 25, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Dingus doesn't see boundaries, only an infinite sea of featureless gray.

Take the Blue Pill Healy, the climbing world isn't as black and white as one would like to think it is.

My personal pet peeve: chain anchors on a trad climb that somehow fits into 'leave no trace' ethics.
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