Chipping culprit filmed in NY

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pelut espania

Big Wall climber
Espania
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
In fact, most routes we all enjoy need some cleaning and yes screw driver and chisels are often used to make the climb something that can be climbed. Desert Shield in JT, was an overhanging wall of frosty, grainy flakes that took me four and a half days to clean. It would have been impossible without the cleaning effort.

Says you mi American dog amigo so nunca come chip and glue in Espania and or see how big and macho man make chipping girls and American glue dogs cry. Viva Espania!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Interesting, there is also a Power of the Choss Compels You thread for people who like to climb on shattered and broken rock for the added challenge ....
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 22, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
I wonder how many climber slamming him would ever even attempt a climb of this difficulty.

He ruined a perfectly good circlehead placement. Now, I can't climb it.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:15pm PT
It ain't rocket science, there are no extenuating circumstances, comparative rationales dom't hold a drop of water - the dude boulders with a chalk bag and a sledge as normal accoutrements. Anyone who can't figure out that's just flat out f*#king wrong has almost as many issues as Ivan.

It's no different with ten-gallons-of-epoxy Fairfield - they both no doubt consider themselves artists and the stone their personal canvas. It's more a matter of spending way to much time in front of a mirror and reading their own blogs than something as simple as ethics. Unfortunately, it's most likely an incurable condition.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
If you really haven't established climbs, then maybe you're not qualified to judge.

I've developed plenty... and what is in that video is FAR BEYOND ACCEPTABLE. You can talk all you want about the "fine line" but the fact is, he was nowhere near it.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Feb 22, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
ten-gallons-of-epoxy Fairfield

Why U don't like climbing Gluefas, broseph?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Coz. I have developed pleanty of routs and am a fair hand with a pry bar. this looks totaly diffent to me than trundeling the big scary stuff and trenching the crumbly crap.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
From stripper to chipper?

Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
I was there for the strip and streak for peace. Put my camera right the f down. He needs no more publicity I thought. What a tool. I have to admit though i did photograph him and a friend climbing the bank in salt lake with the world map on it. Cool photos I never did anything with.

I feel shame for loosely participating in his attention whoring. Maybe that is one of the reasons I am so pissed about the chipping besides the fact that he is chipping. I hate chipping.

He still has no response to Pm's btw.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:05pm PT
i did photograph him and a friend climbing the bank in salt lake with the world map on it.

Mugs did that in the 80's (?). I wish I still had that picture... got it from a friend... I think it was in a magazine. If anyone has a copy (of Mugs) I'd be psyched to see it again.
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Says you mi American dog amigo so nunca come chip and glue in Espania and or see how big and macho man make chipping girls and American glue dogs cry. Viva Espania!

i am glad Pelut is back, i've missed him.

Hey Coz, how come us low grade middling talent climbers aren't allowed to sit in judgement of the guy like everyone else? Hell i know chipping and manufacturing when i see it too!
When you allow only the elite to hold opinions it kind of gives you that one percent-er look.
stevep

Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
Yes, I was thought Ivan was a self-promoting tool with his hipster attitude and fashion industtry ads.
This pretty much confirms it, and then some.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:32pm PT
the guy thinks he's Michelangelo?
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
You can't seriously call yourself a climber and NOT think those holds were completely manufactured. COME ON!

Stop the bullsh#t. This is far beyond "cleaning." far far far far far far beyond.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
I was just wondering if anyone had seen the hold and knew for sure the damage before roasting him


For Christ's sake what more do you want?

video screen grab - click for full size
video screen grab - click for full size
Credit: Hardman Knott

video screen grab - click for full size
video screen grab - click for full size
Credit: Hardman Knott

video screen grab - click for full size
video screen grab - click for full size
Credit: Hardman Knott

video screen grab - click for full size
video screen grab - click for full size
Credit: Hardman Knott

video screen grab - click for full size
video screen grab - click for full size
Credit: Hardman Knott


Yes, it sure looks like he was using a chisel to clean a hold, but I'll reserve judgement till all the facts are in.

The facts are in - live and in living color.
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
he guy thinks he's Michelangelo?

JM for the win!
bamboo

Trad climber
pike co
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
why do some people try to manufacture middle ground on this BS!?
are some of you so FUGGIN PC that you can abide by this!!the ridge is HUGE!!he can choose between thousands of boulders and crags!!there is no excuse!!NONE!!should he face a fireing squad??NO!!run out of the preserve--you bet!!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Bamboo I don't know jack sh#t about where who he is, where he was or any of the climbing. Nothing. Any outrage on my part would be 100% assumed. Why invest moral outrage in such a meaningless gesture, a great sound and fury?

DMT
atchafalaya

Boulder climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
The dude abides.
DanaB

climber
CT
Feb 22, 2013 - 08:15pm PT
Once you start stripping naked in public to get attention.
You're a pretty hopeless case at that point.
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