Chipping culprit filmed in NY


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Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
this looks like a much more effective tool

Credit: S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
we need some photoshop magic on this thread

Feb 21, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Yep .... S.Leeper

That's the tool I use too .....

Feb 21, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Ya'll aren't even taking this seriously anymore. Everyone knows that a good old fashioned Swedish Poonjammer is the only acceptable tool for a job like this. Runs on hope and magic. Keep it well lubricated for maximum effect.

Pionjär: Accept no substitutes.
Pionjär: Accept no substitutes.
Credit: username

Trad climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Who in the helck is this Ivan Greene guy? Never heard of him before this. What's his claim to fame besides terrible ink and chipping.

Trad climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
Those tats are sweet. Attention whoooahhh

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
i think he started a tshirt business with some hot chicks in his ads.
He was the manager at chelsea piers climbing gym in NYC.

Trad climber
pike co
Feb 21, 2013 - 07:07pm PT

Feb 21, 2013 - 01:03pm PT

"It's just a boulder, there's millions of them everywhere. "

if thats the case then he wouldn't have a problem moving on to one he can climb!--furthermore IMO-he had plans to chip/manufacture alot more holds --why else would he stash all those tools---EVERYONE has made mistakes-but this is clearly past that-what a self centered little glory whore!!

Somewhere out there
Feb 21, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
They should put a bag over dudes head (rendition-style) then take off a couple of key digits from the guy.

Whoever doesn't show up to the next big session due to injury may be the guy to shun.

Missing fingers = scarlet letter = banishment/ill treatment from now on

….but that's just my angry side coming out…. there is a much simpler way of putting the mark on the dude.

Edit Edit:
I clip a brush or stick to the end and clean what I can reach. I've only rapped a couple boulders for cleaning purposes.

 I got to rap-clean a great boulder problem in Bishop once.. R/X (though no one will ever fall off this thing).

Called it "High Anxiety".

Didn't break anything that wasn't clearly falling off under weighted pressure.

I think Mick may have mentioned it in one of the latter paper guides for the Happy's, maybe not… it's a liability.

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Check out what's laying next to his propane heater.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
Chipping's bad, mmkay.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber
moving thru
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:32pm PT
Comforting to know with all my flaws....chipping will never be one of them. :DD

Trad climber
East Coast
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
The rock bears witness:

Check out the face by the heelhook at 1:40.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:17pm PT
Looks like Rock Cricket has summed things up pretty well with some good (and rather entertaining) commentary:


Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
Could have been boiled down to...

One person's desire to climb a line should in no way be placed over the rights of other climbers to use an area.

But whateva.

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
in a nutshell

Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:16am PT
OK... I propose we ban all rock climbing. We should probably start a petition on

I'd put it under 'Environment'... but you could probably make a case for putting the petition under 'Firearms', 'Homeland Security and Disaster Relief', or 'Women's Issues'.

Feb 22, 2013 - 05:25am PT
That last video is better than a comic book.

Social climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 05:48am PT
Bill Ramsey from the ClimbingNarc comments:

Because I have actually written in defense of a limited form of chipping, many people have asked me what I think about this video. So here are my thoughts.
One of the main points I tried to make in my earlier essay is this: most climbers think there is a morally significant difference between the removal of loose rock/vegetation to make something climbable, and the removable of solid rock to make something climbable. And my main point was that I don’t see a sound justification for treating these two things as ethically different. There are not different from the standpoint of ecology or environmental concerns. A principled environmentalism would make no distinction between, on the one hand, scrubbing off lichen, weeds, flaky or crumbly rock, prying off a loose block with a crowbar, or removing rocks or bushes or even trees to improve a landing on the one hand, and chipping a hold to make something climbable on the other hand. If anything, a serious environmentalist might frown more on the former because it includes the killing of a living part of nature. So I find it bizarre that many climbers strongly condemn the latter activity and yet often actually praise the former activity, all the while insisting on a strong commitment to environmentalism.

Now since climbing is akin to a sport, climbers can make up whatever ethical rules they want. The can decree that it is unethical to do a FA on a Tuesday, but OK to do one on a Wednesday. They can stipulate that it is wrong to scrub off bat guano, bur acceptable to scrub off pigeon guano. And they can stipulate that it is wrong it chip a hold, but OK to significantly modify the natural terrain in a lot of other ways to make something go. That is up to us. My point was simply that the last case is similar to the former cases in that there does not seem to be a sound reason for making such a normative distinction.

Having said that, I think there are a whole bunch of legitimate reasons to think that what is going on in the video may be quite wrong. For example, if an area has rules put in place by land managers that stipulate rocks, vegetation and other aspects of the natural terrain should not be altered, then those rules should be followed. But notice that adherence to such rules would preclude scrubbing off lichen and loose rock. There was also somewhere the suggestion that some of the chipping involved altering established problems. If something is an established climb, there are a lot of very good reasons to leave it exactly as it is, and not modify it in any way. Also, in my earlier essay I argued that a natural climb is generally far superior to a manufactured climb, and so I restricted my defense of chipping to sections of rock that are literally impossible in their current form (no matter how good future climbers are). Now if what is being chipped in the video is doable (even if doable in the V-19 range) then I think it should be left alone for that future climber.

Suppose that what was in fact being chipped was not possible, ever. Then what may result from the chipping is a (probably) crappy little boulder problem. But there are lots of crappy little boulder problems around the country that people nonetheless get some enjoyment out of doing. What is odd is the following: Suppose the video showed someone doing a lot of the “legitimate” work that often goes into establishing a problem – someone scrubbing lichen, prying off loose blocks with a crowbar, scraping off dirt and flaky rock, excavating underlying boulders to make a better landing and so on. And suppose the video was presented as a tribute to all the hard work that sometimes goes into a making a quality boulder problem. Then people would actually be celebrating the person in the video, thanking him for his diligence in “doing what it takes” to make a great boulder problem others can enjoy. What is interesting is that such a video might actually depict a much greater modification of the natural terrain than what is shown in the DPM video. If it makes sense to treat that acceptable sort of alteration as praiseworthy and wonderful, then it really doesn’t make sense to treat the chipping as absolutely monstrous. It certainly doesn’t make sense to do so on purely environmental grounds, which is what seems to driving a lot of the anger.

Comically, I just noticed in the November Climbing magazine, on the very first page there is an ad for some alliance between Jeep and the Access Fund, featuring something called the “Conservation Team”. It shows two individuals engaged in what appears to be some significant alteration of a rocky landscape, using a giant pry-bar. Apparently these are the Good Guys, promoting conservation and environmental awareness! Am I the only one who finds all of this a little odd?

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 22, 2013 - 06:38am PT
"Bailiff whack his pee pee".
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