Chipping culprit filmed in NY

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Messages 181 - 200 of total 611 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
The force a hammer and chisel puts on a hold is what, a few dozen times the weight of a fat climber? I could apply the same force he was using to a hundred old school classics at josh and bust off most bomber flakes. Think of funking...

Wes, do you have one of those fancy rigs with a cliffhanger hook on the end of a telescoping pole w/a fatty brush? Typicall all i've seen to bust off fragile edges up high, a taped aid hook.
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 05:58pm PT
Watching the video there's beyond no doubt this guy is manufacturing holds.

If one is so stupid to believe some total bullsh!t that there's only cleaning up being done here then you're dreaming.

Cleaning up and manufacturing holds can easily be discerned by the actions of how the tools are being used against the object/s.

There are tools visible being used in the video evidence that point easily beyond "just cleaning up" along with the glue.

"Just cleaning up" is a simple semantics tactic of words to hide behind contrary to the evidence in the video.

The locals obviously have been objecting to this persons actions for some time.

This is why it has been presented by them as evidence of proof.

Whether it's acceptable or not is up to you people since you hold the future of your sport, lifestyle and climbing in your hands .....
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:00pm PT
My rig is pretty simple. I have no metal hook on my telescoping pole, just a clip.



I clip a brush or stick to the end and clean what I can reach. I've only rapped a couple boulders for cleaning purposes.

I usually have a couple areas of interest and visit them when the snow is deep and I can reach the tops... or clean them on the send.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
"Sport climbing is the child that wants to eat its mother"

Thanks, Peter, for that Robbins quote.

A little extreme, I'd say, but right in character with the "Vandals in the Temple" viewpoint.

I'd say it's more like the child that grew up, left home, and doesn't really care what its mother thinks about protection anymore.

healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
...and so goes around loaded with STDs.
fat-n-sassy

Social climber
San Francity, CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
Ok boys.

I'm new to the chipping scene, can someone explain to me:

What's the glue for?

Also, I'm appalled that the gloves have only gotten 4-5 posts. I think we should start another thread so that violation doesn't get lost in this chipping mayhem.
wivanoff

Trad climber
CT
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:30pm PT
What's the glue for?

In case one "cleans" too aggressively...
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
Has anyone checked the rocks in Central Park lately? They must be taking a real beating.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:39pm PT
healyje

central park rocks are about 40% epoxy at this point. not from chipping but from things breaking off under "normal wear and tear". however now that yuki isn't around my guess is that if it breaks off it stays off these days. unless someone else has taken over the task.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
Huh? I've met Ivan Greene. He's a really strong boulderer. Strange that with all of the climbing he can do, he would choose to chip. Climbing rocks is so much more fun than construction.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
Maybe the chipping that goes on will stop when a/the crowd "watching" kicks the shite out of the person doing it to set an example for the rest...


...I doubt that either will happen, but it would be interesting to see it play out.


Remember, folks; NO ONE has freed the Nose on El Cap without using the Jardine Traverse!!!!1111
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 21, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
...and so goes around loaded with STDs.



I set you up for that one : ) , healyje
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 21, 2013 - 07:04pm PT


Glue is to preserve critical holds that make the route what it is, and which legions of gym trained monkees don't know how to pull on, as they lack the finesse which comes from climbing virgin natural rock. My personal opinion is that holds which are usable for the FA w/o glue can be justifiably reinforced by the FAist to retain the character, and difficulty of the route, to prevent overtrained lunks with poor footwork from ripping them off the wall.

Glueing should be rare, legal, and done with the utmost craftsmanship.


Other than that, it can be anywhere from an eyesore to an abomination.


Dickly

Social climber
KY
Feb 21, 2013 - 07:11pm PT
not that I'm gay or anything but I gotta say the little guy is kinda cute when he swings that GIANT hammer
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
This post is slowing down..let's get some more inflammatory statements on here!
username

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
Regardless of what you think about chipping, dude swings a hammer like a bitch.

S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
best username evah!
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
this looks like a much more effective tool


Credit: S.Leeper
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
we need some photoshop magic on this thread
WBraun

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
Yep .... S.Leeper

That's the tool I use too .....
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