Chipping culprit filmed in NY


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Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
that would have been hard for me to keep filming so quietly.

coulda been interesting to call him out on film.


Trad climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Plus sometimes they gotta rap down from the boulder to make holds.

Fixed that for ya:)

Trad climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
I would love to hear the details on the stealthy survailance mission by the filmers. Must of been sporty.

East of Heaven
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
When I first heard about this I searched Ivan Greene and landed on:

I contacted them to try and get Ivan's response, today I recieved the following from Lance Pinn:

Thanks man,

He says he was cleaning up after someone else's mess. He will have his lawyer release a statement shortly I think.


Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
I fired off an email to Edelrid as soon as I saw that.
Every thing I've ever seen or heard of Ivan just spells complete tool.
He and I have several mutual friends on FB and one day my wife asks me who Ivan Greene is, she just received a friend request from some weird looking guy. Pathetically searching through second- hand Facebook friends for females you've never met? Classy....

Gym climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
He says he was cleaning up after someone else's mess. He will have his lawyer release a statement shortly I think.


Funny whether a joke or true (I'm hoping for the latter, we'll all stay tuned I'm sure).

beyond the sun
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:21pm PT
The statements below assume the following:

1) Holds were being manufactured, and it was not simply cleaning off friable choss or loose flakes / junk that would be pulled off at the wrong time if left as is.

2) It isn't being done in his backyard, on private land with the owner's permission or in a quarry.

3) It is in fact Ivan Greene


What an absolute f**kwad.

I remember this clown from some bouldering vids from back in the late 90's (IIRC). Came off like a complete tool. That stupid ass tattoo on his back tells me all I need to know. It is very similar to what a lot of the posers in the MMA (mixed martial arts) scene have done, along with wearing stupid Affliction style tshirts heavily laden with skulls, pitbulls and barbed wire to try and look like a bad ass. This is a lot easier than actually learning to be a badass through training and hard work.

There is (usually) an inverse relationship between talent / ability and ego / need for validation.

Also, the idea that the person filming is culpable for not running down there to confront him is ludicrous. Putting yourself into what would certainly be a heated exchange with someone holding items capable of easily killing you is the milieu of people with poor critical thinking skills, or as we observe in this thread, keyboard warrior badasses who greatly overestimate themselves.

Finally, the idea of a "slippery slope" from other practices like putting in bolts or the use of non-clean aid to this atrocity is tenuous at best.


Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
He will be sent to the Cali central valley to hand pick sh!t out of the fields for 108 days with only water and gruel for punishment

Hey, don't dis honest work, Werner. I earned the money for my first rope, 'biners and pro (well, OK, pitons, so I'm guilty, too) by picking grapes.

I have a hard time judging whether someone is a good or bad person, since I have so many faults myself. I have an easier time judging whether chipping is acceptable or unacceptable. It is not and should not be. When we gained an alternative to widening pin scars, we stopped using pins, by and large. We have always had an alternative to chipping on boulders. Last I checked, there is still no shortage of unknown bouldering territory.

Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
Still there...

I posted a link to that on EDELRID's Facebook page and got this response:

Hi David, we've de-listed this page from our main athletes page, but the webmaster informs us it will take some time still to remove the page completely. It seems like you can still find it via Google. Please bear with us.

-as for this hilariously funny quote:

He says he was cleaning up after someone else's mess. He will have his lawyer release a statement shortly I think.

Cool! I was wondering what the epoxy was for...

Tools of the trade? No, tools of the tool!
Tools of the trade? No, tools of the tool!
Credit: Hardman Knott
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 02:38pm PT

No comparisons used here. You are projecting. I have described the pathway to some of the good routes we climb.

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
Couch: It probably comes about from creeping incrementalism where you need to pull off loose flakes, then you need to knock a few off that are wiggling but won't pull off by hand.
That's some serious incrementalism when it includes about 300 pounds of rock and explicitly targets chiseling out whole swaths of non-loose crack and dihederal on an existing pitch variation which results in lowering its difficulty a grade. And that's before any retrobolts. Even more 'incrementalist' is the stunningly boldface claim it absolutely, positively did not happen, but then such is the extent of some folks' personal and collective reality distortion field - just like the one seen enveloping Ivan Greene in the video. [Creeping (and creepy)] 'incrementalism' is when you cut the top half off of beautiful little trees that aren't even in the way of any thing just because you can't restrain the urge.

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 21, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
I have described the pathway to some of the good routes we climb.

In a thread about chipping. If that is not an implicit comparison, what is it?
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
It's just a boulder, there's millions of them everywhere. Let the guy glue his hold and call it a V13. It's like taking a moral position about people killing ants.

Trad climber
East Coast US
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Nice gloves!!!

There are two reasonable explanations:

1. Hand model
2. Girlfriend protection

Sonoma County
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:14pm PT
amazed by some of the comments here - just posters trolling to get others to bite??

do some of you actually believe what you are posting, that this is acceptable or just no big deal since it occurs in climbing?

i don't just jump on the ethics band wagon, but this seems sooooo wrong, esp. on public land, etc.

lame, lame, lame

does anyone know the name of the boulder? are there other established problems on it?

Trad climber
Butte, America
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Dude needs to invest in better epoxy...

Big Wall climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:22pm PT

Next thing, you'll tell me Timy Fairfield is chipping.


I confonted him in the 90's over a cup of coffee. I was returning his gas powered ryobi drill that I "found" in a wilderness area in the Sandias in NM. He was bolting a red Camalot sized crack with it. The route went on to become turbo trad a short bolted climb in the Sandias.

Over coffee I asked him about his gluing and chipping practices in Box Canyon and at the Enchanted tower. His most recent accomplishment then was a high number glue up named Child of the Light. (Child of the glue is a more apt name).

His take on it was hey go ahead and write your letter to the mags. I will even pose for a photo with a chisel. He was unashamed and stated that all publicity is good publicity. There was no curing him. Another friend at the time found a stash of Timmy's chisels at box canyon and de-sharpened them on a bench grinder and returned them to Timmy.

Timmy went on to glue up and dig out some limestone Choss in the sandias again in wilderness. I hope he has quit manufacturing routes, but do not have much faith that he has.

While talking to me he gave a critique of his work and said his peers thought his routes weren't altered enough.

Big egos lead to big heads and small actions for even smaller gains. Hopefully with this Ivan incident the world of chipping will be forced to consider their actions more carefully.


Trad climber
Lander, WY
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:28pm PT
Whoever it is and whatever is going on in their head, I hope this isn't a glimpse into the future.

Big Wall climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:31pm PT
What it is, is a glimpse of our past and the present. Only we can change the future.

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
Timmy to my partner at Enchanted Tower, 1997:

"Wow, you have huge muscles! We should go out drinking sometime."

My partner was a little confused because his gf was a smoking hot Frenchie... he could only come up with "oh yeah?"

"Yeah! I like to talk sh#t and I could use someone strong like you around."

I thought he was pretty funny the rest of the time we climbed with him. But the chipping is unacceptable.
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