Remember when Fires changed the world?

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RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 20, 2013 - 02:17pm PT


It is about to happened again.

Finally!



Biggest change in alpine boots I have seen in several decades.
Full review in the link to Cold Thistle.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/the-scarpa-rebels-part-one-ultra.html
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
I should have just said "boot review" But that doesn't qiuite cover it :)
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Feb 20, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
Another great review Dane. As usual. When you bump that off the front page with your next blog post, will that link still work for the Scapa Rebel review you did?
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 03:33pm PT
Thanks Bro,
The link is review specific. So it is good long term.

BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Feb 20, 2013 - 03:35pm PT
I remember a route that I could never do in EB's despite many tries. It had this dime edge smear that I couldn't use.

When I got my Fire's, I could do it. Then I soloed it. Fire's totally changed things.
kiloka

climber
Denver, CO
Feb 20, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
Great review! Small typo on the first paragraph itto >it to
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
"When I got my Fire's, I could do it. Then I soloed it. Fire's totally changed things."

Exactly! Now think of a pair of boots that likely weight less than an old pair of blue RRs, climb ice even better than a pair of Koflachs and are as warm or warmer than most any single boot we have ever climbed in...

Ya got the the idea of what the rebel Ultra is.

Can you imagine doing the Chere in that set up?
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
Seriously? Am I the only one who gets it?



Ultra is 10oz lighter per pair than a Batura 2.0 in a size 45. With a precision fit like no other ice boot in existence that I have seen. The difference in volume should be more clear in this picture.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
This thread is convuluted. I see a reference to fires and then see a scarpa boot with integral crampons. Yeah, fires were a huge advancement in sticky rubber. But what do fires have to do with the Scarpas?

Edit: Oops. Read the thread to fast; it has been one of those days.
QITNL

climber
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:06pm PT
I'd also like to see your review of the standard Carbon GTX.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 11:58pm PT
Crampons are clip ons, not integral.

Rebel GTX is here:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/11/light-weight-mtn-boots.html

I have yet to write a specifc Rebel GTX only review.

They share the same name but aren't the same boot. Rebel GTX is a good boot but not a big standout in that crowd of boots.

QITNL

climber
Feb 22, 2013 - 01:34am PT
Thanks for that. I share your love for the Mulaz sole, it hikes and climbs real good. Vasque used it on their ultimate line of mountain boots, they fit my feet nice but are gonna wear out. The Rebels look real snug but that's like a month's rent! Down here, they would be plenty of boot.

Thanks again for the review & for the record I was rocking a big old floppy pair of Fires last summer after I massively stubbed my toe. They still climb pretty good!
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:22am PT
Fires blew chunx!
Sloppy unrefined blobs of sticky rubber that let hoards of unwashed proletariat be fooled into believing they had good footwork.
Now for the modern alpine boot.
What does the Scarpa Ultra have that will "change the world" anymore than my Kayland M11's did five years ago?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 22, 2013 - 07:54am PT
Like me!
Total wrong shape for my foot, really poor fit. But, when I ran up ephemeral clog dance I was sold!
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Feb 22, 2013 - 10:38am PT
I remember when we first make fire. Keep cave warm. Keep wild animal away at night. Stay up later. Cook meat. Ugh say UGH! Fire good!
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
"What does the Scarpa Ultra have that will "change the world" anymore than my Kayland M11's did five years ago? "

Ha, ha, ha, ha,ha,ha! Better compared to the Ice Dragon than the M11. Much closer in weight and sensativity.
rockermike

Trad climber
Berkeley
Feb 22, 2013 - 01:04pm PT
I'm with brainscan, fires really changed the world when they cooked the first sabortooth leg. I thought this was going to be a thread about some new archeology or something- ha
crock

Trad climber
The Windiest Mountain, Wyoming
Feb 22, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
My grandpa used to talk about the Oxygen Crisis, when fires really changed the world.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Must be hard to be so young you don't remember the Fire and how it changed the world....

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