Chimney Practice at Sugar Loaf. Route Questions

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
5.7 chimney in Split Rock.
It's a back on one wall both feet straight out on the other.
Slight run out. Great climb. Protected with bolts all the way up.
Somebody added some TR bolts at the top

It's the rock right below Pony Express
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
ya... anything X (ST rating) is staying off my tick list :-)
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
at one time, the LOAF had routes that would make anyone pizz their harness and cry for mama. Its what it was known for. Some of those have since been bolted over. The "bachar-Yerian" of the area- "Tapestry" for example.

But Farley- is a burly 9. And seems to have an ability to spit out many a would-be ascent as well as their gear. Just in case you get the lie back bug while there.;-)
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
Ron- Well, that's one of the reasons that I wish I would have gotten into climbing when I was in my more life-endangering 20's. I just got introduced to climbing in the last 2yrs and I tend to approach things now with a bit more slow deliberation. I will eventually run things out a bit more but I'm not there yet. I do way more dangerous and stupid things on a mountain bike for sure.
I am glad to know that I'm already leading moderate trad that scares the crap out of some sport climbers. I finished a single pitch 5.7 at Lover's Leap and saw a locking biner on one of the 3 face bolts... went down to the bar at the Strawberry Lodge and two girls from Bend were telling me about how they left it and bailed because they got freaked out.... but they totally sport climb 5.11a/b at home...
I do like adventure.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Feb 19, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
get any bonus for getting their bail biner!?? And i hear ya on risk.. I did it, lived to tell, now feel GREAT sewing the hell outta stuff!;-)
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 12:40am PT
Nope... And one of them had one of those wonky eyes that drift on you while you are talking... a bit unnerving
Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews