Do you coach your partner?

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Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
donluvs2climb

Sport climber
Fort Collins
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 18, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
I'm considering including tips on how climbing partners can engage in co-creative coaching, to help each other improve, in my book, Think-Play-Send.

What has worked for you when your partner helped coach you or vice versa?

Thanks,
Don
Onewhowalksonrocks

Mountain climber
portland, Maine
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
I leave my partner alone unless they are in danger. Of course I don't climb with beginners.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 18, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
Spraying beta at someone trying to climb is a definite negative. My partners pushed me by putting me on routes harder and more run out than any I'd done before, and lying about the grades.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Feb 18, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
I take them off belay right at the crux. That usually motivates them to focus and climb hard.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Feb 18, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
My main partner was a very strong face/slab/friction climber but lacked
any crack skills , struggled on 5.7's .... I have crack skills but was
quite lame on face n friction . Over 5 years of climbin together we
did a lot of coaching with each other and are far better for it.
Crackslayer

Trad climber
Eldo
Feb 18, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
I just try to scare the sh#t out of my second. Never tell them anything except that maybe it is easy.
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 18, 2013 - 11:49pm PT

I try to coax my partner.
But most of the stuff is a little to 'experimental' for her :(
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:00am PT
I mean no offense, but when I imagine this book in use, I picture gumby guys who are "teaching" their new, previously non-climbing, girlfriends to climb...

With these guys pointing out how this book explains that it is a positive thing to have them telling her exactly what to do and what she is doing wrong. And of course, patronizing her as she takes her turn at coaching, as the book suggests...

I am sure I am wrong, but that is what came to me! Sorry, but....

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:15am PT
I learned to coach at the Ghengis Khan School of Motivational Speaking:

"GET ON WITH IT, YA WANKER!"
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:31am PT
When the other person on the rope needs coaching they haven't achieved partner status.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Feb 19, 2013 - 01:53am PT
"I don't know what you're doing, but whatever it is you're doing it WRONG!"

That's helpful, right?
ruppell

climber
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:30am PT
I gotta go with tami on this one. If your asking here you might wanna consider another name for the book. Such as, THINK-PAY-send??? lol Good luck
donluvs2climb

Sport climber
Fort Collins
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2013 - 09:38am PT
I guess I should have known Tami and Ruppell. Although sometimes there are a few nuggets from people who want to be helpful.

Anyways, I always get a kick out of a few of the gnarly responses.

Don
MisterE

Social climber
Feb 19, 2013 - 10:18am PT
There are really only three words you need to know to be a great coach:

"Yah!" "Go!" "Send!"

Never vary the order of these three magical words, although good coaching technique involves adjusting volume and frequency during critical learning moments.
ruppell

climber
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:42pm PT
The most annoying thing you can here is "You got it". When your already stressed on hard moves and you really don't have sh!te. Your about to pitch and your partner says "You got it". BS.

A buddy of mine and I figured that out about ten years ago. We climbed together a lot and one night around the campfire started talking about that scenario. We decided that just saying "GO" when your partner was stressing was a much better way to go about it. After adopting this word BOTH of our onsight percentages went up. Since then I only use it now. Sometimes I'll add a little something like "GO. I'm with you" but never more than that. It forces your partner to do just that. If that makes it into the book I expect some royalties. lol
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
Just tell them to hurry the fukk up.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
There should be a level above "on sight" that shows a climber's skill. That would be the "bad beta flash". This is where your partner is going for the flash on a route you told them you have done, and you purposely give them terrible, incorrect beta that could never work. They then proceed to flash the route anyway, either by figuring out the right way after wasting untold amounts of energy, or (even better) by actually doing it with the completely incorrect beta sequences.

Much more impressive than a piddly blank slate on sight.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:58pm PT
One of my old partners used to always do this when he led a pitch, I'd be half way up following, and he'd yell "Don't fall! The anchor's no good!" Only worked the first few times. Then I learned, his anchors were always like that.
Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic
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