The Vertical Century

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Messages 41 - 48 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2014 - 09:54am PT

Trento festival 1961


1rst row left to right:
Claudio Barbier, Gaston Rébuffat, Otto Herzog, Mario Stenico, Michel Vaucher

2nd row left to right:
Cesare Maestri, Georges Livanos, Toni Kinshofer, Riccardo Cassin, Walter Bonatti, Toni Hiebeler, Pierre Mazeaud

3rd and last row together left to right:
Gigi Alippi, Ales Kunaver, Pier Liugi Airoldi, Annibale Zucchi, Giancarlo Frigeri, unkown, Yvette Vaucher, Sepp Inwyler, Pierre Marchard, René Dittert, Beppi de Francesch, Aldo Klaus, Maria Teresa De Riso, Dino De Riso, Toni Serafini, Toni Masé, John Harlin, Luciano Ghigo, Romano Merendi.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2014 - 10:03am PT

Yvette Vaucher

Yvette Vaucher
Yvette Vaucher

Vaucher was born in 1929 in Vallorbe, Switzerland. She took up rock climbing in 1951 and climbed mainly on the Salève in the French Prealps near Geneva, where she joined a group of women climbers who were regulars on the Salève. In 1955, she moved to Neuchâtel, where she began free fall parachuting. She is credited as Switzerland's first female parachutist. She had made over 100 mountain descents via parachute before she formed a climbing team with Michel Vaucher, a mountaineer whom she married in 1962.

One of Vaucher's most famous climbs was the Matterhorn in July 1965. When she reached the summit on July 14, she became the first woman to have climbed the Matterhorn's north face. She made the ascent with her husband on the 100th anniversary of the first successful ascent of the mountain, and their "surprise climb" was noted to have "stole[n] the spotlight" from two other climbing teams who were planning to climb the Matterhorn at the same time with film crews to broadcast their ascent on live television. An article in the St. Petersburg Times about the Vauchers' success was titled "Swiss Housewife Steals Matterhorn Show", and when interviewed about her plans after the descent, Yvette answered, "to go have a hair-do – fast."

Yvette and Michel Vaucher made numerous significant climbs in the Alps throughout the 1960s and 1970s, including Piz Badile, the Aiguille de Triolet, the Aiguille du Dru, the Eiger, the Große Zinne and the Grandes Jorasses. In 1966, they made the first direct ascent of the north face of the Dent Blanche. They climbed frequently with Loulou Boulaz and her partner Michel Darbellay.

Vaucher and her husband joined an international expedition to Mount Everest headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth in 1971; she intended to become the first woman to reach the summit of Everest. Tensions and conflict were rife within the team, however, and the expedition was ultimately unsuccessful. Vaucher, upset with Dyhrenfurth's leadership, is said to have thrown snowballs at him before leaving the expedition.

Vaucher was denied membership of the Swiss Alpine Club until 1979, when she became one of the first women to be made an honorary member. As of 2012, she continues to hike regularly in the Alps, despite having hip and knee replacements.
jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jul 7, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
As of 2012, she continues to hike regularly in the Alps, despite having hip and knee replacements.

Ha Marlow! That should read 'BECAUSE she's had hip and knee replacements'!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2014 - 01:14pm PT

^^^^ ... "because" sounds better... she's pretty badass... (that's a compliment)

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jul 7, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
Very cool thread. A real history lesson to be sure. Thanks for putting it up.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2014 - 02:24am PT

La Vendetta del Cervino.

An article written by Edward Whymper in a century long gone and published in Epoca Oct 1962. Walter Bonatti is credited for the photos. And you already know the one on the front page.

Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2014 - 02:25am PT

La Vendetta de Cervino continues...
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Credit: Marlow
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Nov 22, 2014 - 06:34am PT
That great flake looks terrific. Nice thread, Marlow.
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