WTB: Vintage Climbing Gear Pre 1970's

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Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 14, 2013 - 01:35pm PT

I collect vintage climbing gear (including those Bedayn carabiners). Pre 1970's hardware is what gets me motivated.

You all are so generous with sharing stories and history. Very nice read and of course I've noticed those (gear) pictures too!

I am in no way wealthy but always seem to manage to scrape up some funds to spend on vintage gear, so if you have one carabiner, a pile of pitons or a whole collection that you might want to consider selling, please send me a PM and let's talk.

Rare is good!

Thanks,

Art

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Feb 14, 2013 - 03:23pm PT

Break stash and let's see what you have to share from your collection.

I have lots of hardware to trade so write me and we can work together.

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 03:48pm PT

Hi SG!

My collection is pretty much not for sale or trade - been working towards a museum idea I've had for 15 years now...but I'll send you a PM so we can at least chat a little about all this (historically) important stuff.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Feb 14, 2013 - 04:47pm PT

I have a core collection too but plenty of duplicates to work with so I look forward to discussing your ambitions.

If you are interested in a bricks and mortar museum, there is a lot of hardware out there looking for a home.

Cheers

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 01:43pm PT

I'll pay fair prices!

John M

climber

Feb 20, 2013 - 01:48pm PT

Showing pictures of what you already have is one way to get people remembering what they have stashed in the bottom of their closets and thus might be willing to part with. Plus its fun to see the old stuff.

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 20, 2013 - 07:52pm PT

^ visual cues always help me too! But since I moved into a new home, my collection is in plastic tubs so I can't get to them right now. - too much remodeling going on.

How about hard goods:

Dolt
Salathe
Chouinard
Marwa
Bedayn
(Early) Eiger
Stubai
Holubar

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 20, 2013 - 10:36pm PT

whats a fair price for a actual Salathe piton. i have one. i would consider selling it. the piton is in good condition and has the diamond p clearly stamped into it.

I think the value would depend on how confident people are that it's a Salathe'. If it's a nice Lost Arrow style, looking a lot like known examples, maybe in the $500-$1000 range?

Post up some photos!

This has been discussed here in the past:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=945103&tn=0
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1928354

Jon Beck

Trad climber

Oceanside

Feb 20, 2013 - 11:22pm PT

Chessler is asking $1500, and I would trust his provenance more than a one-time Supertopo poster. So 500-1000 sounds reasonable.

middle joe

Trad climber

Feb 21, 2013 - 12:52am PT

Any interest in Rockfarer biners? I've got a couple unused ones sitting on my desk.

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Feb 21, 2013 - 02:07am PT

I've been passing stuff to Stephane, Marty, and Ken over the years in the expressed hope that at some point one of their collections will survive. I personally think if those three alone (and throw in SG's for good measure) pooled their collections, you could probably support permanent exhibits in the U.S. and EU and have enough left over for a traveling international exhibit as well.

frank wyman

Mountain climber

montana

Feb 21, 2013 - 10:42am PT

I found a rope-metal rung aider back in "72" or so when I was pioneering a new route in Yosemite..(read hopelessly lost and scared) It was old when I found it and uniquely marked. I'll try and find it and send it to you(no charge) As My job title is shipping and recieving, Give me a few days to look for it out in my easybarn which is blocked by snow drifts...Frank

Roots

Mountain climber

SoCal

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2013 - 11:45am PT

Good morning everyone - glad that this thread has gained some attention!

I just PM'd those of you that posted up some offerings. Very interested in hearing back from you.

I agree that Stephane, Marty, and Ken have great collections worthy of the world's stage. I hope to visit and see each of those collections someday. I enjoy vintage climbing gear whether it's in my collection or someone elses.

Regardless, I'm not asking for donations, discounted prices or any of that (although I would not turn it down)...I'm willing to pay so that may make a difference to some.

My museum idea(s) are not commited to yet. I could go with a brick and mortar setting, or collaborate with others' collections. [not sure] But for now that's about 5-10 years out so I'll keep buying what I can when I can.

Art

middle joe

Trad climber

Feb 21, 2013 - 03:00pm PT

I forgot to mention that I have a early 1970'ies Chouinard Frost ice ax I restored that is for sale. It has a bamboo shaft and one set of teeth.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 21, 2013 - 11:06pm PT

not even close.......i'll keep it.

Please don't take my $500-1000 "guestimate" as an accurate estimate;
very few of these have been sold, and the quality varies greatly.

I agree that Chessler's example is questionable.
So was the example on ebay that was offered at $2500.
Marty estimates $1000+, and he is a real collector.

Please post up a photo and start up the frenzy of offers!

(If you don't know how to post a photo, and live near SF, please contact me - I'd be happy to shoot it for you.)

bookie

climber

Mar 5, 2013 - 09:12pm PT

Chessler does supply provenance for his Salathe piton:

C. 1948. This is a real Salathe Piton, the holy grail of climbing hardware collectibles. This is an original hard steel piton, to withstand the constant removal of pins from long cracks that were encountered in Yosemite. I obtained them from Eric Reynolds, the founder of Marmot Mountain Works, who has written about them on the Supertopo Website.

Reynolds wrote:

'I've got three Salathé pitons given to me by on old family friend who climbed with John Salathé.

'My friend grew up in the Bay Area and as a teen was in a Sierra Club rock climbing group that had Salathé, Steck, and Bedayn as instructors/mentors for kids like him. This was pre-1950 years. I am 100% positive of the provenance of these pitons as being made by John Salathé himself. The stories told to me were quite great.

'About ten years ago I was given a few pieces of off his old rack that had been hanging on a nail in the garage for decades. Here are some photos.'

The piton is 4 1/2' long, and has some old paint on the head for i.d. purposes, which I am leaving on as removal would also remove the old patina. This is the first Salathe Piton ever offered for sale, that I know of, and may be the only one you may ever see. We also have two other styles listed.

Moof

Big Wall climber

Orygun

Mar 5, 2013 - 09:29pm PT

If anyone has unwanted I-beam chocks stamped Colorado, I'd pay a fare price. Just saying...

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Mar 5, 2013 - 11:38pm PT

provenance for his Salathe piton

It's not a very solid provenance in my view.
It's from a friend who at one time climbed with a group of people which included Salathe'.
A solid provenance is something bought from (or given by) Salathe'.

The shape of the piton and hardness of the steel is what should really matter, in my opinion. The shapes of the Reynolds pitons are not as close to other Salathe' pitons as they should be to give it more than about a 50% chance (in my view).

I believe these are Salathe' pitons:
[Yosemite Mountain Shop]

[Yosemite Climbing Association]

[Yosemite Climbing Association]

[from Chris Jones' book]

These are the pitons from Eric Reynolds:
Reynolds #1
(the bent tip and deformed anvil suggests the steel might not be hard enough?)

Reynolds #2
(this one looks better but might not have been pounded much?
The "anvil height" is too low on both of these, in my view).

If I had to choose yes or no, I'd say they are not Salathe' pitons.
But everyone can decide for themselves.