Lancaster climbing?

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skamoto

Mountain climber
coalinga ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 13, 2013 - 02:16am PT
Ill be spending a month in Lancaster soon, anyone know of any rock climbing in the nearby Lancaster palmdale area?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Feb 13, 2013 - 02:26am PT
Just up the road is Whitney Portal/Alabama Hills (an hour or more drive).

I think there is some limestone out there too.

skamoto

Mountain climber
coalinga ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 03:00am PT
Thanks munge but I'm looking for something a lot closer.
oldtopangalizard

Social climber
ca
Feb 13, 2013 - 09:13am PT
Devil's Punchbowl. Out in back of Palmdale where the turkey farmers run.
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 13, 2013 - 09:31am PT
Well, the *closest* would be Devils Punchbowl followed by Texas Canyon. I learned to climb at Punchbowl so I maybe a member of the *very* small fan club. Texas Canyon has easy access, but limited sport climbing on crap rock.

You could just cut across on Pearblossom/ Hwy 18 and you could be at Apple Valley Crags or New Jack City for a decent selection of sport climbing on better rock. If you're looking for trad you'll head north to the foot of the Sierras/Whitney Portal. The Domelands guide covers some of closer crags I think.

Bad Climber

climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 10:07am PT
The routes at Texas have been improving--and more routes being added. I always have fun when I go out there. It's well worth your time, and a neat place in the spring when all the hills are green. All the areas close to Lancaster, however, will be hot as hell in the summer.

BAd
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Feb 13, 2013 - 10:45am PT
Yeah.. I don't mind Texas Canyon so much. My other half hates it.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Feb 13, 2013 - 10:57am PT
I'm close to texas canyon (10min) shoot me a line if you want to go sometime. this goes for anyone else too. It's a cool little spot, but chossy and the lines are all pretty similar, just some are steeper. Nice for a close burn and nice because you wont usually see anyone.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 13, 2013 - 11:27am PT
There are a few climbs on a bluff by Lake LA, Levi put em up....

Devels Punch Bowl has some fab steep sport climbing... down hill, toward the desert from the parking lot. Look up "Best Seller" ....

Not to far north, one can easly get to the climbing around "Walker Pass" and Kernville leads to several crags located north of town along the Kern River.

The only redeeming quality about Lancaster/Palmdale is its location... your about 1 hour closer to the Sierra.
berlindx

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
There are a few TRs and maybe one bolted line just north of Rosamond, I think this is the closest climbing. Unfortunately the rock is garbage, but it is close and more or less climbable.

It's not super close, but I've always been a fan of New Jack City. Some really fun sport routes there, and it's close enough for a day trip. Malibu Creek State park and Echo Cliffs also have awesome sport not that far from the Antelope Valley. JTree and Red Rocks aren't that far if you can take a weekend.

Directions to the chossy area previously mentioned:
GPS coords are: 34.961214,-118.201454. Take 14 N to Backus exit, turn left on backus and right on 40th st west (i think its a dirt road). The road will curve left, take the immediate right and drive north until you see the obvious rock formation up the hill to the right.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Feb 13, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
Devil's Punchbowl is funky, but really fun. I'd definitely go there for at least one of the days you're in town.
skamoto

Mountain climber
coalinga ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
awesome thanks. ill def have to check out the punch bowl. im going to check out new jack city tomorrow since im down here visiting checking out where im going to stay for a month. anyone going to new jack tomorrow?
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
Feb 14, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
Bob "Cracko" Porter reporting in.

I have lived in this god forsaken place for the last 25 years !! The possiblilities are very limited. Devil's Punchbowl, Texas, AV Buttes, Acton Choss, etc. are ..... well... better than no climbing at all. But, don't expect much, and consider driving a few more miles to New Jack or Joshua Tree.... I have. I have actually found some pretty good rock out in the Lake Los Angeles area (AV Buttes) but there are some access issues that you need to be aware of. I think the Devil's Punchbowl area has the most potential but beware that the "granite pebble glued into questionable sandstone" rock is something that won't generate a "warm" feeling, and is unique as a rock climbing medium. Good luck and don't hesitate to contact me for more info.


Cracko
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Feb 15, 2013 - 02:09pm PT
Used to live in Lancaster for a short bit. I know of the place berlindx speaks of...don't waste your time. I agree with Guyzo and Munge....beat feet out to the Kern area for the weekend (ie Kern Slabs, Columbia, Domelands, The Needles! And further up the road, Bamas and Whitney Portal. Guyzo is your man regarding info on the Domelands. I personally recommend Church Dome and Bart Dome if you go there.

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