Dano would have been 50 today..

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LilaBiene

Trad climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
I know you have stories in there somewhere...what made you guys click?

If there was one climb you could go back to and climb with him again, where would it be? What made this climb so special or so ordinary that it was special?

Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Feb 13, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
seen it a million times, but hey, this is a tribute, so wtf, over?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjuHSwF9Amc
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
Well, when i first met him we got to talking about the obscure places around, and he would say,," ohwwcrap that was YOU who did that"! And i would shortly be saying the same thing and we started laughing about the fact we had been climbing AROUND each other for years. We were both into music, smoking this that and the other, and simply clicked as friends first, and then occasional climbing partners. I helped him with several uhhhhh,,,projects if you will of a sensitive nature, we got together to play guitars or talk about skydiving techniques for his rope jumping.. We were both artistic and that was also a common denominator. He would spend time up in Carson with me and we would go to my folks house for a huge bitchin dinner now and then, and they too thought a lot of him . I helped him through some rough patches as best i could as well, when he was going through the divorce and whut knott.

I guess the most memorable route i did with him would be LedZep arete in woodford canyon, and a route we did on Calveras.. The LZ arete was an fa for us, and i kinda conned him into doing it...I had told him that i had done the fa lead ( its a short sport route) so it was good to go. I had bolted it previously but had only gotten it tr in reality,,but this is what i did for my climbing buds,, a gift of a route so to speak,, but Dano had been resistant.. So i TRICKED his butt LOL! When he got to the anchors i congratulated him an the FA and he laughed and called me a sphincter! A word i had more or less introduced him to and he took a likin to it..We had many laughs over our course.

We had seperate areas that we developed then would take each other to after we had all the plums bagged.. He usually ended up soloing all my routes though! On sight taboot.. He was a major league ahead of me in abilities as was the case for many. Then we would do an area together putting up routes - when the "mood " was right.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Pollock Pines, California
Feb 13, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
dano was more of
a 5000 character
than a 50 character.

happy lifetimes that you are dano.
wear my socks for a day,
i'd be honored.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 08:00pm PT
A typical belay for Dano was like this: He would reach the anchors on some over hung horror that at the anchors was 60 off the deck with 80 feet of climbing,,yard up fifty feet of rope and launch, while you, the belayer launched to double soften the dynamics, then simul lower sort of.. Being nearly eye to eye at the catch point.. Required one to be on ones toes when belaying him! We had some of the BEST mornings getting at the cave when it was empty.. After the crowds would hit,, it became a very claustrophobic place for me. I never climbed that well there- it was scary to me, but i did better when it was just Dano and i or Crawford etc,, the "yocal" crowd..

Dano was extremely encouraging to those who gave effort no matter the number - i saw him commend many a climber that way- he had a lot of respect for those who tried.


And theres this othr time,,at the "Book of Red" south of gardnerville, a tiny crag near the e fork of the carson. He had just lead bolted this face thats hard 11 or soft 12, fifi hooking my bosch up to him on a pulley no aid..about a fifty foot route. So its my turn to lead it,, and this is at my limit. So i getzit,, clip the anchors just as im FADING, and set back,, thinking hes alert to the sitch and WHAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaumph! He catches me almost eye level as im sucking up my legs fer impact..He was busy talking with a group of young ladies that had shown up watching us .. Ehheh! Hes says,, sorry doood ,, and i laugh and told im i just thought he was giving me his usal lower,, then acted all cool in front of said group of ladies- " yeah,, we do that all the time "!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Feb 13, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
Awesome. :D

I'm all ears!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:44pm PT
We went to Woodfords canyon with Tom Gilje once or twice. I remember him leading "one of these days" in like four minutes tossing in about three or four pieces max -at one point Tom is WAY out from the last piece- at the second overhang and everything cuts loose but one hand - Danos belaying and utters to me " feeeckkkk here comes a hard one! " Tom gathers and blast on up the thing like it was nothing.. Dano says " i think hes nuts fer sure"..All i could do was yell up smashin lead man! ( thinking of my lead which contained about 13 pieces..) They were of a similar level and somewhat competitive on a very good friend level.. I was a mere passenger at the edge of being dead weight. I thought to myself,, these doods aint right mannnnn,,and i CANT HANG! I even told them that,, they laughed.


When i was doing the guide, Dano and i were working on the Woodfords part and we were gonna start low above crystal springs. He had told me of a very cool crack he had done that was 5.12+ and a few other route. Up we headed,, and started tending to a crag i had done a previous "cool " AID route on...We were pausing and i ask him,, is this a jagged obvious crack going up a flat wall,, and goes left to right at-----he interrupts me and says something like,, not again BAAHAHAHAAA! I said,, im willing to bet YUP--we get there and "Storm troopers of death" was indeed a crack i had aided a few years before. I said,, gee,, i didnt think it was THAT hard! I had aided it and even used pins by the plenty. He goes and frees the dang thing. and its a beautiful crack. a two pitch route. EAT yur wheaties...
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Feb 14, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Hey, Ron, thanks for making me smile while trapped on the commuter bus...these are great stories...I hope you (and other folks) will share some more as they come to mind.

I know I'm new to this campfire, but in my short time here it's been so much fun to learn about everyone and everything...and it just stokes the fire to keep sharing stories, memories and more (especially this time of year).

So thanks, again, and here's to those who live on in our hearts!
mountainlion

Trad climber
California
Feb 15, 2013 - 02:17am PT
Bump for the Dano Stories Ron! Still my favorite climber!! The most graceful I've ever seen. I never get tired of watching or reading about Dan! RIP
Gal

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 15, 2013 - 07:09am PT
Wish he was still around... just watching his videos, you can see the extraordinary charisma, and you just know he was on a different level than most. Thanks for the stories, Ron.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 15, 2013 - 07:37am PT
Cool stories Ron!
Thanks for sharing,
May his spirit soar!
Tad
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 15, 2013 - 08:21am PT
Yeah, that video(MOS 3?) where goes over the handlebars and then free solos Atlantis was something else
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 09:03am PT
Yep,, and that perfect impromptu flag HE PULLS OFF WITH BROKEN RIBS...Ive had broken ribs,, couldnt even hardly move breath or fart. Dano transcended pain that made others puke. He transmogrified it into strength, i truly believe that.
bjj

climber
beyond the sun
Feb 15, 2013 - 09:22am PT
"What he did at cave rock is truly incredible, if you saw what a trashpit/cesspool the base was before he "groomed" it like a cross between a tuscan porch and a zen garden."


The guy must have been a human perpetual motion machine. Just rigging the climbs would have been more than enough effort for most people.

One of the things I liked most about learning to climb in Tahoe was the variety of climbing style / rock in the area. I firmly believe that is what made me well rounded enough to climb at my limit (meager though it may be) at so many other areas around the country, whereas when I met other climbers from places with a single local area (Smith, The Red, etc) they tended to struggle when presented with rock of a different type.

Cave filled the need for the very steep and pumpy (by far my biggest weakness). Fire in the hole was the first .12 I ever sent, and it took an embarrassing number of tries.

That place was nothing short of a gift to the Tahoe community. Such a shame Dan's legacy is now a memory like the man himself.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 09:40am PT
True that.. The Cave was a gift to ALL,, even the local tribe. As before his efforts- the place was litterally a DUMP. bottles, cans, pallets, trash of all manner. Feces and piss every where. Then came Dano, with a vision and then a mission. The artistic nature of the whole scheme was stellar! The arrangement of the huge blocks into practical benches. The sidewalk effects and the graveled areas. ALL DANO...Like no other area before or since really. Some said it was way over board. Most stood in awe and enjoyed it completely. That place, with that view,, was a legendary locale for climbers from around the world. We cherished it much the same as the Washoes of long ago. Drawn to it by much the same magic. But it wont be shared, and thats a tragedy.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 15, 2013 - 10:16am PT
Wow Ron! Thanks! Love reading your Dano tales!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 10:42am PT
Glad your enjoying them. There are some tales i can not tell in such a public manner..


We had some great times just hangin- in "the shed" at his place in GVille when he lived there. He created that Boreal logo in granite there. I got to see that up close- feel the smoothness and exactness of the craving of a solid piece of granite. It was done for Boreal i think- when he was getting a "sponsorship" from them,, basically free shoes.. Or we would go over tracking positions of free fall, so he could practice them on the next jump.
Or play guitars, him on the base, getting metalica liks down with buddy Steve and myself. Or talking of the past, family, and things like hunting, which Dano had done with his Dad..In fact, a week before he died, he called me wanting to get a turkey hunt going..He said he had really missed those times with his Dad, and wanted to hit that trail again. I was excited about that- as we never had hunted together. feck....


He was a complex person inside, and rarely let out all the frustration or question he contained. But in his jokes or one liners during a conversation, i would see past the surface and pry it out lol! Just like all of us, even as cool and collected as he was, he had personal issues and strife's. He just didnt like to focus on them. But they haunted him daily too.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 11:05am PT
The first time i took him to Iron Butte, he had a gas,, and couldnt believe the quality of the rock itself. He said he had seen it from highway 50, but it just looked like rubble..So we make the approach on late spring afternoon, and upon feeling the rock,, decides its onsight solo time. Up he goes on "wild women of plant playtex" for a warm up, downclimbs "Redbeard", the its off to the wall in a hurry cuz the sun is starting to fade. He hikes "The wall" and scrambles the backside decent just in time to do "Baboon safari" - my "test piece" of the crag is it were -a blocky start to a roof then up a vertical deep hands to thinner hands crack on a smooth bulging wall. Im over on the side part way up another route taking pics,, and i start mumbling about him just OS-ing everything making my test piece look like a friggin sidewalk - and i might have called him a sphincter too,, which makes him start cracking up, and hes in the crux of that 5.11 crack! Laughing and yelling at me to shut up or he laugh himself off the route.

Credit: Ron Anderson


Dano, Onsighting "Baboon Safari" Iron Butte, 1992 His shirt reads,, F#cking Hostile!...
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Feb 15, 2013 - 11:43am PT
Ron- Your tales of him ooze of your close ties and respect for him. Some of your best posts for sure. Thank you for sharing!!!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 12:06pm PT
There are a million who had respect for him. Everyone he met..The list of Tahoe area climbers that hung with him at times reads like an entire history of the region. He was prolific in everything he involved himself in. And he had a develish side at times.

For instance,, on masters of stone- one of the earlier ones, hes explaining the arch of Slayer - or maybe its Phantom Lord, cant remember off the batt, but hes using his middle finger and gives it a flip at the end of the move- directly at the camera. This,, not being a mere co-incidence, but a subtle message to a certain Frenchman over a certain down rating of a certain route lmao!
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