Vegas baby! Vegas!


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Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
My bags are packed, flights in the morning! 10 days in Red Rocks with Bmacd!


The ticklist already includes:

Cat In The Hat
Tunnel Vision
Ginger Cracks
Crimson Crystalis

Any other suggestions? Great places to eat? Things that must be seen? Sandbaggery?? Let me have it!! :)

(I know you would anyways...) ;)

San Francisco, CA
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
If cat in the hat is crazy (likely), go back around the corner and start it with cookie monster instead (which is a great climb at the grade).

Trad climber
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
I would say skip Birdland, not much going for it except its easy and a classic 20 foot finger splitter on the last pitch.
Do Olive Oil instead. Awesome climb, all trad, including belays, and its a walk off. Having a 70 meter rope sure helps on Olive Oil but not neccessary.

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:49pm PT
Group Therapy, next to Tunnel Vision, is amazing.

for shorter days... Black Magic, the Great Red Book, Diet Delight.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
Cool! Thanks Allie, Studly and Gal! We will have 70's which will be nice.

Feb 10, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Dark the top! Don't rap after the first 3 like most people do, the descent is awesome too, take 2 ropes

A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
A couple of years ago we wandered up to Birdland to find one party on it and 5 -- count them, FIVE -- parties waiting. So we moved about thirty feet left and jumped on [name forgotten] which is the same grade and maybe even better quality and had it to ourselves.

Did the same thing a couple of days later at Crimson Chrysalis. Hiked in, found a lineup, so moved over to Ginger Cracks and had that to ourselves. I haven't climbed CC, but Mari has and said Ginger Cracks was better.

Moral of the story? Forget the tick list. Any of the multi-star super-popular routes will likely have a lineup. But that's okay, because it means fewer people on everything else. And everything else is just as good -- often better.

Have fun, and get the place warmed up for us -- we'll be about three weeks behind you.

A long way from where I started
Feb 10, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Here's something to get you stoked

Some climb at Red Rocks
Some climb at Red Rocks
Credit: Ghost

Feb 10, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
Levitation 29
The Fox in Calico

Dream f the Wild Turkeys

Fidler on the Roof

Yosemite Valley, CA
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
For multipitch climbs in the sub-5.10 range (judging from your list that looks like what you're going for) a couple of my favorites are the Black Dagger (5.8) and Community Pillar (5.8), which are also less crowded than most of the routes on your list. Crimson Chrysalis is great climbing but also mega popular and all the bolted anchors are at bad stances, so hanging around waiting on the party-o-3 in front of you to sort out their clusterf*#k is especially unpleasant.

Bring your headlamps and call in for a late exit.

For food I sort of dig the L&L Hawaiian BBQ, behind the Burger King just on the other side of Charleston from the RR Casino. The best pizza is at the food court in Costco. You're supposed to show your membership card at the door but you can try just walking on in if you don't have one. If you have a bad weather day and want to get loaded before noon, the Champagne Brunch (Sat and Sun) at the Golden Nugget is $20 for stellar food and all you can drink booze. For a dinner buffet, the Freemont has a "steak night" on Wed and Sat, with all you can eat cooked-to-order NY cut steaks for $14.

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
I recommend tunnel vision(just to say you did it),
And dark shadows, lotta balls, johnny vegas, dream of wild turkeys
David Knopp

Trad climber
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
i second Byran on Black Dagger it's in a great location, longish walk keeps the crowds away, the climbing is great and the descent is awesome, down the gunsight. Ragged Edges, only 2 pitches but hella fun! And yep Dark Shadows to the top.

Feb 10, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
Credit: kennyt

Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
Feb 10, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
Ragged edges is cool-and no approach (basically).
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 01:44am PT
Wow! Thanks for the responses!

What grades are you looking to climb?

Great question wml. I'm thinking mostly 5.10 or below multi pitch, but I would like to get on some mid 5.10 single or two pitch routes.

Maybe if Bruce is feeling good we'll get on something a bit harder.

I called my mom today, because it was her birthday. She said "you're leaving Whistler? In winter?" "You must really like this climbing thing". I told her "winter sucks right now!" I still can't really believe it myself.

It can be hard to leave.

I'm on the road already, staying at bmacd's to cut down the drive in the morning.

He showed me his old gear stash

Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 01:51am PT
Woooooooooo hooooooooooooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!

I miss Jer too. ;)

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:52am PT
Is that preparation H? See you both down there, it's warmed up again.

Mountain climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 01:58am PT
2nd skipping Birdland. Not sure where all the stars come from. Olive Oil = 10x better. Jubliant Song is a good option for something a tad more adventurous.
Oh man I'm so jealous. LOVE that place.

Edit: man I didn't think snow got that brown in Whistler! WTF??

Edit 2: Ghost that kind of looks like Valentine's Day in Moderate Mecca. A short but excellent corner. Was an early gear lead for me.
Big Mike

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2013 - 02:04am PT
Berg, it hasn't been snowing very much since the new year! Makes it alot easier to go away for sure.

Harry yup! Hahahaha no it's epoxy. ;)

Trad climber
Feb 11, 2013 - 02:14am PT
Skip Birdland.

Geronimo is a lot of fun with real sweet holds.

Jubilant Song is totally sweet.

Community Pillar is a go.
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